I might have a chance to buy some old MAC tool boxes. The person
- Thread starter Steve V.
- Start date
Uncle Buck
Banned
I had an opportunity to get a Mac setup almost identical to that setup a few years back for $400.00 I did not have the money, I will be licking my wounds over that one for many years to come! Yes it is a Mac box prolly 1980s vintage is my guess. I would jump on that with both feet, sticking slides and all if the price is right! I would use those sticking slides as a bargaining chip & try to steal that rascal!
Fast Orange
Well-known member
That looks very simular to a Mac MB900 series box I had in the early eighties.Clean and lube the slides and you'll have a great box.For $400 you can't go wrong.
George
George
Uncle Buck
Banned
You misunderstood, he did not state $400.00, that was the one I lost out on a couple years ago!
rambler
Well-known member
I have the very same box that I've purchased new from the MAC Tool man in the early 80's for about 1100.00 total with trade in. I'm still using it today. I believe it's the MB500 & MB510 series. It should measure approx. 26" wide x 15" deep x about 19" tall for the top box. The bottom cabinet would measure 26" wide x 18" deep x 36" high with casters. The only changes I've done since I've brought it over 25 years ago was removed the one oversized chest drawer and replaced it with 3 shallow drawers since it has built in drawer slides in it already for a $50 accessory (to keep my smaller tools). I've also added the original MAC Tool side tray c/w bottom shelf to the bottom cabinet. Here's a picture of it.
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O.K. guys, here's what I got. I went and looked at the boxes this morning.
They are MAC boxes (name in the handle as previously mentioned). The sizes are:
Top - 26"w x 15"d x 19"h
Bottom - 26 1/2"w x 18"d x 38"h (with casters) 32 1/2" (without casters)
The good: No major damage to the boxes (actually no damage at all really except minor scratches). All drawers open/close (all a little sticky). All handles and parts are there. They roll just fine and are very heavy feeling (quality). The key is with the bottom section and works (top key missing but lock is there).
The bad: One drawer slide will not stop on the right side (easy fix/replacement). They have been repainted by someone who shouldn't be allowed near paint. Socket holders have been riveted inside the very top (another easy fix).
I bought these boxes because I needed the extra room for tools. I knew they had been repainted before I went to look at them. I went with the idea in mind that I would repaint and refurbish them. I need a little project if you know what I mean. I intend to take them apart and strip them down and repaint them Ford blue (Rust-Oleum sells an actual color called Ford blue).
I got them for $200.00 total. How do you guys think I did? Any pointers on taking apart boxes and repainting them are welcome. I've never done that before. I intend to document the process with pictures. Where can I find numbers on them so I can find out the exact model(s)?
They were posted on Craigslist here in Houston and claimed almost immediately. I emailed the seller on the chance the original buyer didn't want them. He emailed yesterday and told me they were still available. When I went this morning I asked him about it. The original buyer just "didn't have the time" to come look at them. A second buyer came to look but didn't want to pay $200.00. That's when the seller shotgunned an email to the other 6 replies that he had. I answered first and went and got them this morning.
Thanks,
Steve
They are MAC boxes (name in the handle as previously mentioned). The sizes are:
Top - 26"w x 15"d x 19"h
Bottom - 26 1/2"w x 18"d x 38"h (with casters) 32 1/2" (without casters)
The good: No major damage to the boxes (actually no damage at all really except minor scratches). All drawers open/close (all a little sticky). All handles and parts are there. They roll just fine and are very heavy feeling (quality). The key is with the bottom section and works (top key missing but lock is there).
The bad: One drawer slide will not stop on the right side (easy fix/replacement). They have been repainted by someone who shouldn't be allowed near paint. Socket holders have been riveted inside the very top (another easy fix).
I bought these boxes because I needed the extra room for tools. I knew they had been repainted before I went to look at them. I went with the idea in mind that I would repaint and refurbish them. I need a little project if you know what I mean. I intend to take them apart and strip them down and repaint them Ford blue (Rust-Oleum sells an actual color called Ford blue).
I got them for $200.00 total. How do you guys think I did? Any pointers on taking apart boxes and repainting them are welcome. I've never done that before. I intend to document the process with pictures. Where can I find numbers on them so I can find out the exact model(s)?
They were posted on Craigslist here in Houston and claimed almost immediately. I emailed the seller on the chance the original buyer didn't want them. He emailed yesterday and told me they were still available. When I went this morning I asked him about it. The original buyer just "didn't have the time" to come look at them. A second buyer came to look but didn't want to pay $200.00. That's when the seller shotgunned an email to the other 6 replies that he had. I answered first and went and got them this morning.
Thanks,
Steve
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shocksystems
Well-known member
Great deal. They will look great painted blue.
Jim
Jim
Fast Orange
Well-known member
For $200 you got a good deal. The MB900 boxes I had were amongst the best boxes I've owned. I went to a larger SO box and traded in the Macs.IIRC,the 900 boxes were 33" or so wide,otherwise the layout was the same.
At the time I had those boxes,half of the shop had a stone floor,so the factory casters didn't work too well.I built an angle iron frame and put pneumatic tires on it-kind of a poor man's pit wagon.
George
At the time I had those boxes,half of the shop had a stone floor,so the factory casters didn't work too well.I built an angle iron frame and put pneumatic tires on it-kind of a poor man's pit wagon.
George
Strip 'em down, because the existing paint looks rather thick! You can use chemical ("aircraft stripper") or mechanical (sandpaper) means. And, instead of rustoleum consider using automotive paint. A pint of primer and a pint of cheap single stage urethane should run you around $50-60. You're liable to spend that much on rustoleum aerosol cans to cover all that real estate.
I agree that automotive paint would be ideal but the cost would be much higher. I am painting an old metal cabinet(which will become my painting cabinet) for just $5 using Rustoleum. I bought 2 quarts on sale at the local lumber yard but I think I'll only need 1. Using spray cans would definitely be costly and probably wouldn't match well from can to can. Just thin a quart down a little bit and spray away! My cabinet was free so I didn't want to spend much on paint so this was ideal for me. I'll post some pictures of the cabinet tomorrow or Monday to show my results and you can get an idea about what you would like to do. I may have sprung for the auto paint if I was painting a vintage tool box but it wasn't worth it in my case. Also, don't forget to throw those handles on the buffer. Its all in the details!
Grant
Uncle Buck
Banned
A heck of a deal!
Uncle Buck
Banned
I have a great idea for you, find a mismatched automotive color you can live with and spray it on the cheap. If you are still bent on using a utility grade enamel, go to Tractor supply or Orschelin's and get one of their bright colored tractor enamels. The reason I say to buy there is that they sell a compatible hardner to their tractor paints and it is cheap. Hardner should improve the quality of your paint job considerably!
mulepackin
Well-known member
Van Sickle makes a pretty good quality, user and price friendly farm enamel. It is available in Ford Blue. Should be able to get it at Tractor Supply or other farm supply place.
Thanks for all of the responses (keep them coming). What I was thinking about was
this. Taking the boxes apart and having them hot tanked/chemically dipped to strip everything off of them. This would not only get rid of the paint but all of the grease and stickers and noseeums. That might not be an option for various reasons (cost/nobody to do them/etc...). If that doesn't work out I was just going to sand them down to a very thin layer of the original paint. The aircraft stripper sounds pretty good. That part of it is up in the air right now. The handles have some little rough spots on them and I was going to buff them. If they don't turn out right I think I'll either paint them or have them powdercoated in black or silver. As far as paint goes, I can get a gallon of Rust-Oleum for $33.00 plus tax at the local hardware store. I was looking at this thread and was impressed by the guy did on his cars (9th post down). I was thinking that it could be done on the boxes also.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Is the farm paint really better than Rust-Oleum? I don't have access to spray equipment so I'll have to roll them or rattle can them. I was thinking rolled outside and rattle canned inside. Whatever I decide to do will be documented with pictures and write-ups. You guys let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Steve
this. Taking the boxes apart and having them hot tanked/chemically dipped to strip everything off of them. This would not only get rid of the paint but all of the grease and stickers and noseeums. That might not be an option for various reasons (cost/nobody to do them/etc...). If that doesn't work out I was just going to sand them down to a very thin layer of the original paint. The aircraft stripper sounds pretty good. That part of it is up in the air right now. The handles have some little rough spots on them and I was going to buff them. If they don't turn out right I think I'll either paint them or have them powdercoated in black or silver. As far as paint goes, I can get a gallon of Rust-Oleum for $33.00 plus tax at the local hardware store. I was looking at this thread and was impressed by the guy did on his cars (9th post down). I was thinking that it could be done on the boxes also.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Is the farm paint really better than Rust-Oleum? I don't have access to spray equipment so I'll have to roll them or rattle can them. I was thinking rolled outside and rattle canned inside. Whatever I decide to do will be documented with pictures and write-ups. You guys let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Steve
If you use the chemical / aircraft stripper method, here's a helpful hint a guy let me in on a few years back and it works like a champ.
-Cover a small area with stripper (24" x 24" is usually about right).
-Then cover the stripper with a dry cleaner bag, garbage bag, Saran Wrap, old Wal Mart bag ... anything plastic.
-Leave undisturbed for approx. 10-12 minutes.
- Remove plastic and apply another coat of stripper.
- Leave undisturbed for another 10-12 minutes.
- Hose off residue.
- Wipe bare metal dry.
The plastic keeps the stripper from evaporating / drying and as long as the surface being stripped remains "wet" the better the stripper will work.
Stripped an entire '72 VW Beetle this way with a single gallon of stripper.
-Cover a small area with stripper (24" x 24" is usually about right).
-Then cover the stripper with a dry cleaner bag, garbage bag, Saran Wrap, old Wal Mart bag ... anything plastic.
-Leave undisturbed for approx. 10-12 minutes.
- Remove plastic and apply another coat of stripper.
- Leave undisturbed for another 10-12 minutes.
- Hose off residue.
- Wipe bare metal dry.
The plastic keeps the stripper from evaporating / drying and as long as the surface being stripped remains "wet" the better the stripper will work.
Stripped an entire '72 VW Beetle this way with a single gallon of stripper.
Uncle Buck
Banned
I think they have a hardner you can add to theirs which would be very benefitial. I like the Van Sickle better than the other brands I have tried. The dry time and flow out characteristics are much more agreeable.
Uncle Buck
Banned
Re: Thanks for all of the responses (keep them coming). What I was thinking about was
Is the farm paint really better than Rust-Oleum? I don't have access to spray equipment so I'll have to roll them or rattle can them. I was thinking rolled outside and rattle canned inside. Whatever I decide to do will be documented with pictures and write-ups. You guys let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Steve[/QUOTE]
Years ago I reduced a quart of Rust-o-leum black as per the directions on the can and ran it through a gun to spray a little utility trailer, big mistake, never again! I did not think the thing would ever dry! If you can add a hardner maybe, without hardner I would look at Van Sickle brand myself. Also if you are comfortable with a gun I do not think you could beat a sprayed on finish
Is the farm paint really better than Rust-Oleum? I don't have access to spray equipment so I'll have to roll them or rattle can them. I was thinking rolled outside and rattle canned inside. Whatever I decide to do will be documented with pictures and write-ups. You guys let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Steve[/QUOTE]
Years ago I reduced a quart of Rust-o-leum black as per the directions on the can and ran it through a gun to spray a little utility trailer, big mistake, never again! I did not think the thing would ever dry! If you can add a hardner maybe, without hardner I would look at Van Sickle brand myself. Also if you are comfortable with a gun I do not think you could beat a sprayed on finish
I think the price is kept down by the fact farm equipment manufactures have been very few in numbers for the last number of years and due to product identity use the same color for years and years. So you get a great product at a low cost. I use farm paint any time I can. I have some very funny or unexpected colors on repainted items, but that was the reason low cost for the quality of the product.
1320stang
Well-known member
You can get some paint stores to put automotive paint into a spray can for you. You can also get aerosol cartridges that go onto glass bottles that you can put automotive paint in. A can of spray paint only has about 3 oz. of paint in it and only goes on about .015 mils when sprayed properly.
Also check with a local automotive paint supplier in your area for "bad mix" paint ... the paint is perfectly fine, but someone mixed a little bit too much of one tint or too little of another.
Occasionally you can pick up a gallon of any given color for a song.
Occasionally you can pick up a gallon of any given color for a song.
MAD
Well-known member
I agree the Van Sickle tractor paint is great stuff. It is cheap, easy to work with and very durable (at least when you use the hardener). Here is a picture of an old box I painted International white over Ford blue with Van Sickle.
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Uncle Buck
Banned
Hey my southern brother, that is what I was saying last page back but no one seemed to notice!
I think I feel like shooting a bottle rocket now!
Uncle Buck
Banned
I think I feel like shooting a bottle rocket now!
I hope you're not thinking about a "silo" launch...
I have used Rustoleum in a spray gun with very poor results. I have had better luck with "BPS" brand tractor paint, although it takes forever to dry.
Uncle Buck
Banned
Uncle Buck
Banned
I hope you're not thinking about a "silo" launch...
You read my mind!
Continuing on the paint thing, I know I said earlier 1 pint of primer and 1 pint of paint... but thinking some more about it, especially doing the insides of the drawers- a quart might be more reasonable. The incremental cost goes up just a little, but not double.
The suggestion to get leftovers for cheap from the paint shop is A+ sound advice if you feel lucky or have time to wait for the "right" mix to be made "wrong" for someone else!
The suggestion to get leftovers for cheap from the paint shop is A+ sound advice if you feel lucky or have time to wait for the "right" mix to be made "wrong" for someone else!