Which 24” 1/2 ratchet should I get?

[richfinn]

I'm a convert to the 1/2" Facom extendable flexhead ratchet (from my older Snappy), but it doesn't quite tick all the boxes for you.

Facom SXL.171 1/2" Drive Flexi Head Extendable Locking Ratchet 305-435mm - PrimeTools

8 positions extendable from 305mm – 435mm. Access in confined spaces. Powerful: more torque less effort. Safe: extension locking mechanism. (Pull collar down to release). Sealed head maintenance free. 72 teeth mechanism for 5 degree increments. Drive direction switch. Hanging hook.

www.primetools.co.uk

It's cheap

Non Locking flex 72t

Very Strong

It isn't as long in its fully extended position as you are looking for (435 mm)) but that's an advantage in my eyes

No clue as to warranty

Probably made in Taiwan

However it does save me having to carry multiple 1/2" drive ratchets around and it's really nice and comfortable to use. The party trick is definitely the extendable nature of the lool (the head is non locking)

 

[1320]

Skip all that and get the Snap-on 1" drive 66" long ratchet. Anything less would be uncivilized...



I really like my Snap-on SHLFD80A. I had thought perhaps the flex head would be eventually floppy or it would be less than ideal in this long pattern, but I've had no problems on that front and put it through abusive use. They may not make the hard handle D models now, but I think the SLF80s and SHLF80s are still for sale new.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

 

[Cruzan80]

Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet.

Why bother now that ratchets and breaker bars have the same point of failure (anvil)?

In other words, Tell us you didn't use modern ratchets, without using the word modern"...

 

[liliysdad]

Why bother now that ratchets and breaker bars have the same point of failure (anvil)?

In other words, Tell us you didn't use modern ratchets, without using the word modern"...

I have no clue why this is hard to understand?

 

[ecotec]

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

Because… with enough leverage, you can move the world. I totally came up with that… trademark me…

I would rather hurt or wear out a tool than my body.

This whole thread is academic. Unless you are some kind of supercar mechanic where every part is thousands of dollars… you are probably grabbing an impact.

The math is on your side with a longer ratchet or breaker bar. The longer the tool, the less work to get the hardware to start moving.

 

[65k10]

In a ratchet like that, the strength of the ratcheting mechanism is probably of secondary importance to the stiffness of the handle. There seems to be a trend lately towards long ratchets with spindly skinny handles, and with any load on them they deflect like crazy. It's aggravating to have enough space to click the ratchet but you can't because the handle just flexes.


This is my one complaint of my super long 3/8 Capri. Probably less of a problem in 1/2 drive. Just don't ignore the handle shaft diameter. It matters.

That is one thing I really liked about the Armstrong made Matco 24" ratchets. The handle was about 3/4" thick just behind the locking mechanism, then would taper to about 9/16" before the grip portion. This kept the ratchet fairly light, yet in my experience stiffer overall than my Snap-On shlf-80a, which once in a great while was the difference between the Matco able to break a fastener loose in a tight work area, while the Snap-On ran out of room before the grip end was stopped by something. It's really a shame Matco never continued that handle design or that Snap-On tried something like it.

That said, while I like the Matco because of that handle on the old models, plus the lock which is handy at times, if I was buying new, I would probably go with the Snap-On SLF80A or SHLF80A because I trust the mechanism a bit more and it's probably going to be easier to get serviced.

 

[65k10]

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

Although the main draw to the 24" 1/2 ratchet is for brute forcing things, once you have one you learn to appreciate the other things having a ratchet that long can do. The big one is just that often times I will grab the 24" ratchet for tasks that are technically feasible to do with a shorter 17"-ish ratchet because it takes less force. That can be helpful when working in confined spaces where I do not have full motion of my arms and it's hard to apply much force. It's also nice when working on something where I am in a somewhat precarious spot and having more control over when the fastener breaks loose means it's reduces the chance I fall off wherever I am working on. A 24" ratchet can also be a godsend when dealing with crowsfeet wrenches on hydraulic lines because unlike a breaker bar, I have much more freedom with where I can position everything when working in an awkward position.

I say all of this as someone who just has multiples of those ratchets floating around (I hunt for cheap ones on eBay and in pawn shops, then stick them in the farm trucks and tractors) for working on personally owned farm equipment. If they are that useful for me, I would assume most professional techs and mechanics would also find them super useful to own.

 

[Callelle]

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

Because most 1/2" drive ratchets / breaker bars have the same failure point, which is the anvil, so you're not destroying anything. Breaker bars are obsolete and the only role they realistically serve in 2025 is when you don't want the drive end to change orientation.

 

[Hakeem]

More great points from everyone! Just a few comments I wanted to reply to

I have a Matco 36" that I've broken the gear / pawls on multiple times. I'm gonna try and scoop up one of the locking flex head Icons during the black friday sale.

Any thought to a Platinum Tech 99682? It's a non locking 24" flex head, but also has another 20" handle that attaches to it. They claim it's rated to 700ft lbs. I don't personally have one but it's on my list of wants.

1/2" Drive Super Strong Flex Head I-Beam Ratchet Set - PLT-99682

1/2" Drive Super Strong Flex Head I-Beam Ratchet Set - PLT-99682

atdtools.com

Appreciate the input from a fellow HD mechanic. I’m a sucker for weird tools and if this were a little less expensive, I’d probably order it now. I see they limit the flex head to 15deg either way, which is honestly pretty smart given the forces it’s expected to see. They tout the I-beam handle design as being able to allow the handle to flex, which I thought was a translation error, but the photo seems to confirm it:



Still, it’s oddball enough to pique my curiousity. I’ve also added to my list of wants.

Do you have a reason why head size is a factor for you? As I'm sure you know, I have and love the Snap On SHLF80A. The size of its head has never once been an issue for me. For me, it's probably the use case. I use this ratchet:
1) a lot
2) for pretty specific jobs, none of which require small head sizes.

My recommendations:
1) skip the head size as a comparator. Add the handle/grip you like. I personally like the Snap On soft grip, especially for this ratchet. If you love the Matco grip, maybe factor that in.
2) The quality of the flex is the other thing you should be factoring. I assume you didn't mention it because both are excellent. You don't want a floppy head on this tool. Locking flex would be a deal killer for me.
3) Would you consider a >30" ratchet? Looks like Matco makes one. Would that be a better choice for you? Feel like the 26" SHLF80A might be the standard length ratchet for semi's! I guess that means 18" would be the stubby! For passenger cars/light trucks etc, my 26" ratchet is long enough.

Head size is not a dealbreaker and unlikely to be a factor but all else equal, a thinner head is better. In practice, a thinner head may be less strong or have other issues, to which people have alluded.

>24” seems impractical, and I’d like to cover my bases with a two-footer first. Maybe one day I’ll truly have the need for something bigger….

The nice thing about the heavy duty stuff is that the big fasteners are seldom inaccessible with an impact. Some things aren’t supposed to be removed/fastened with an impact, and that’s where a big ratchet would be nice. Wheel bearings are a prime example. They are retained with a ~2+” jamb nut that’s torqued to 300-400ft lbs. The sockets are these stamped steel things that don’t old up to an Impact. More importantly, using an impact risks damaging the bearings (brinelling if I remember correctly from class). Engine work is another example, even though I’m a few years out from that.

If literally stuck choosing between those 2, Snap on all the way. If you can think outside of those 2, this would be my first choice…

Ah,thank you .. I love the out of the box suggestions. The Cornwell has certainly entered the running.

You’re local to me. We have Snappy trucks everywhere BUT I have found three Matco trucks now just outside of the route I’m on. So they are definitely going strong here. I know Matco is having its problems and that everyone loves to bag on them but a lot of that is from the older pawl designs and the Covid supply issues. Personally, I prefer the Matco chrome and comfort grip handles. The Snap-on handles are very fat and squishy. The only benefit to the Snap-on comfort handle is that dealers will just replace the handle while Matco gives you a new ratchet. The Matco ratchets are much easier to service. I also find that while the Matco is more crunchy sounding and less smooth than the Snap-on, the gearing isn’t as fickle when I’m applying an uneven force on the ratchet. All of my Dual80 ratchets get exceptionally crunchy when I’m ratcheting at weird angles. Matco ratchets, probably due to the single pawl, do not do that. I’d recommend the Matco ratchet over the Snap-on and I know that I’m in the minority on that. I just think that the Dual80s are overrated.

Matco corporate ***** though. Like I cannot stand calling them because it’s so difficult to reach someone. It sounds like they are going through some changes so maybe that is why their corporate service *****?

I should mention that I want chrome handle so the soft grip isn’t a factor. Your other points are noted, and I’m glad you mentioned the bolded, as that’s something I’ve seen brought up a few times before. I only know two people with the Matco 1/2” ratchets but they’ve never mentioned any issues….of course, neither have the guys with the Snappy 1/2” ratchets.

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

I’m not above using a breaker bar and I don’t think I NEED a 24” ratchet but if a breaker bar and a ratchet have the same strength and both break at the anvil, why opt for the breaker bar? In reality, there are use cases for a breaker bar still, but I’d like a 24” ratchet first.

Because… with enough leverage, you can move the world. I totally came up with that… trademark me…

I would rather hurt or wear out a tool than my body.

This whole thread is academic. Unless you are some kind of supercar mechanic where every part is thousands of dollars… you are probably grabbing an impact.

The math is on your side with a longer ratchet or breaker bar. The longer the tool, the less work to get the hardware to start moving.

Yes, I’m finding myself pulling from awkward angles, maybe with only a few fingers because that’s all I can get on the ratchet, and the extra leverage from an XL ratchet means that I’m putting less stress on my body. I feel surprisingly fresh for a 37 year old tradesman but I know things don’t get any easier with time. I hope to do this for 20+ years and still be limber enough to enjoy my retirement (if I get one!), and that’s where things like XL ratchets come in.

 

[AEAdam]

I’m not above using a breaker bar and I don’t think I NEED a 24” ratchet but if a breaker bar and a ratchet have the same strength and both break at the anvil, why opt for the breaker bar? In reality, there are use cases for a breaker bar still, but I’d like a 24” ratchet first.

Nothing useful to add accept: I really agree with this statement and feel you are making a good decision. I don’t have that many ratchets by GJ standards, but this one is one of those I use the most. It’s just plain handy. I don’t own a breaker bar and haven’t yet found a need my SHLF80A hasn’t tackled.

Just a reminder- choose wisely with the flex head. Snap on flex heads are very tightly machined so you get a consistent and nice drag in that joint. A looser joint technically can be closed by the hinge fastener, but that will never feel or perform the same. A good flex joint is really face to face contact, not face to edge contact.

This may sound unrelated: I got some advice from a really smart friend about buying a computer. He said “make sure you buy a really nice monitor. The CPU is important, but the monitor IS the computer“.

In this example, at the end of the day, the grip, the flex joint and maybe the number of teeth in the head are what you will actually work with. Whether the tool breaks at 600ftlbs or 700, may never effect you. Sounds like you won’t buy this online, which is smart. Snap on, you can probably take our word for it. The others, I would want to handle them first. Drag in the flex joint should be consistent through the range of travel. Snap on flex joints are typically pretty stiff. You have to deliberately set them to an angle and an accidental bump doesn’t typically move them.

Yes, I’m finding myself pulling from awkward angles, maybe with only a few fingers because that’s all I can get on the ratchet, and the extra leverage from an XL ratchet means that I’m putting less stress on my body. I feel surprisingly fresh for a 37 year old tradesman but I know things don’t get any easier with time. I hope to do this for 20+ years and still be limber enough to enjoy my retirement (if I get one!), and that’s where things like XL ratchets come in.

Again, well said, and I agree. One more thing to mention: A long ratchet can extend your reach, allowing you to work in a more comfortable position. I would say, more than carpentry, which I’m doing tons of at the moment, automotive work can be pretty uncomfortable. I find myself in awkward, uncommon positions working on cars. I have found my long ratchets and long extensions to be invaluable.

 

[Callelle]

Appreciate the input from a fellow HD mechanic. I’m a sucker for weird tools and if this were a little less expensive, I’d probably order it now. I see they limit the flex head to 15deg either way, which is honestly pretty smart given the forces it’s expected to see. They tout the I-beam handle design as being able to allow the handle to flex, which I thought was a translation error, but the photo seems to confirm it:



Still, it’s oddball enough to pique my curiousity. I’ve also added to my list of wants.

If you shop around and look for who else offers it (For a while it was exclusive to Cornwell), you can get it fairly inexpensively. There's a K-Tool version on Zoro for $187, combine that with their normal 20% code and it's not bad.

 

[KnurledNut]

Snap-on is available with quick release. Matco is not.
For some, this is preferred. Just another iron in the fire.

 

[dnschmidt]

Dare I say the forbidden words: Harbor Freight G2

 

[terrific]

I’m not above using a breaker bar and I don’t think I NEED a 24” ratchet but if a breaker bar and a ratchet have the same strength and both break at the anvil, why opt for the breaker bar? In reality, there are use cases for a breaker bar still, but I’d like a 24” ratchet first.

I had a similar thought recently. Repair kits for ratchets are much more common than repair kits for breaker bars. That's a point in the ratchet camp's favor. You can probably buy three bars for the price of one ratchet, though, but I think most of us would prefer to repair a tool than discard the handle.
Most of us aren't going to break a half inch tool, though, so figure out how to weigh that into the equation.

 

[Wrench97]

The only advantage of the breaker bar is if you have to work the fastener back and forth.

 

[Jeeper99]

I have a 24" non locking snapon flex head I beat the **** out of working on industrial equipment. It's my go to 1/2" ratchet I use for most things. With the flex head you can usually make up for the longer handle angling it to get around things. I've had it 5 years, given it no mercy including several pipes, and it hasn't been in for a rebuild. I also have a stubby 1/2" snappy flex head and a 17" flex head. I hadn't used the 17" much at all to the point I brought it home. The extra leverage of the 24" is nice to keep wear and tear off the body. I find my self using the stubby 1/2" once I've broken things loose or when I need to loosen a big fastener that isn't very tight. I've also put a pipe on the stubby with 0 concerns considering it's the same head as the 24" ratchet.

Another thing to consider is if you are thinking about other length ratchets is keeping the brand the same. All 3 of my 1/2" flex heads have the same head, just different handles. In a pinch you can swap heads to get you by to finish a job. This might be something to consider if you are planning on going into a service truck or are having to pack tools up for a job away from your tool box.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

Am I the only dude that uses a breaker bar to break the bolt or SHCS loose and then turn the bar 90* and run it out or in like a screwdriver? Works way better than trying to spin out with a ratchet. I freaking love breaker bars. The only reason that I have long ratchets is for access.

 

[liliysdad]

Am I the only dude that uses a breaker bar to break the bolt or SHCS loose and then turn the bar 90* and run it out or in like a screwdriver? Works way better than trying to spin out with a ratchet. I freaking love breaker bars. The only reason that I have long ratchets is for access.

If I’ve got room for that nonsense, I’ve got room for an impact.

 

[Callelle]

Am I the only dude that uses a breaker bar to break the bolt or SHCS loose and then turn the bar 90* and run it out or in like a screwdriver? Works way better than trying to spin out with a ratchet. I freaking love breaker bars. The only reason that I have long ratchets is for access.

yes

 

[sparky 1971]

I have a SK LP90 24" fixed head and a Mac 26" locking flex and to be honest, they are almost too big. I've used the Mac twice that I can think of, both times were the caliper mounting bracket bolts on my service truck; I don't think I've ever used the SK. I do use the 15" LP90 flex head pretty often as well as an old 15" Mac 36 tooth fixed head. Knowing what I know now combined with what is currently available, I wouldn't buy either one of the XL ratchets in my arsenal and would wait until the Harbor Freight Black Friday sale when the Icons are 40% off and grab either the 26" locking flex, or fixed head, maybe both since the two together would cost less than either one of what I currently have.

 

[AEAdam]

Am I the only dude that uses a breaker bar to break the bolt or SHCS loose and then turn the bar 90* and run it out or in like a screwdriver? Works way better than trying to spin out with a ratchet. I freaking love breaker bars. The only reason that I have long ratchets is for access.

I think this is a little easier with a ratchet. You can move it like a speeder. A breaker on the other hand, must be twisted like a screwdriver.

 

[Hohn]

When I got my long Kobalt 24” 1/2 ratchet, I didn’t expect it to be so useful so often. Definitely a stout long handle 1/2” ratchet (preferably flex) deserves to be in your box.

 

[xjfish]

The Mac Axis 1/2" ratchets are actually quite nice and USA. My longer go to is a 36" locking Matco. I have broken it more than once.

 

[impactims]

I just don’t get why everyone thinks they need a 24” ratchet? I worked on farm and heavy equipment most all my life and never had a 24” ratchet. Learned to loosen tight fasteners with breaker bars…( hence the name) and finished removing with a ratchet. Why destroy a very expensive tool just to save a few seconds or get hurt because the ratchet failed. I made a great living as a journeyman field mechanic for over 35 years without any super long ratchet. And no I didn’t put cheater pipes on ratchets. Chew on that for a while….

With a breaker bar you are limited in some ways and this can lead to the handle of the breaker bar pointing in a direction that is less than ideal at best or not even workable at worst. A 12 point socket helps in this arena. But, a ratchet still gets you more options.

If where the handle points does not matter at all and there is lots of room to work with, then yes a breaker bar is the way to go in my opinion. A ratchet is better if space is a problem and you can't get the handle to point where you need it to.

 

[BWWgarage]

I did not read the entire thread ... tekton 24” extra long

1/2 Inch Drive x 24 Inch Quick-Release Extra-Long Ratchet | TEKTON

Quick-release ratchet with 90-tooth gear and 4-degree swing. Ultra-compact head and sleek, comfortable handle. SRH11224.

www.tekton.com

 

[drokihazan]

Snap-on 26" locking flex is the ticket. SHLX80a. I've considered the Matco 33" one before, but the truth is if I need a ratchet longer than 25" I'm busting out the 3/4" drive anyways.

 

[cherrybomb]

Any Tekton owners that could chime in?They have a good reputation for tools

 

[liliysdad]

Any Tekton owners that could chime in?They have a good reputation for tools

It’s gong to the same MIT ratchet available from about a hundred other vendors.

It’s probably just fine. For $75, I wouldn’t overthink it.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Any Tekton owners that could chime in?They have a good reputation for tools

What @liliysdad said.

I tried some Made in Taiwan ratchets that I disliked. I like the Tekton ratchets. They are not my favorite but they cost much less than my favorites and they have a great warranty. You get a decent solid tool for a good price and a solid warranty. I had a problem with a Proto HTC Ratchet. Proto sent me a label, I sent the ratchet to Proto and a week or two later I had a new ratchet. I had a problem with a pair of pliers from Tekton, I had a replacement in a day or two. If you have Snap-On, what is your turn-around for a fix or repair? Off a truck you wait for your truck to stop by or maybe you deal with it by mail as well.

 

[micromind]

Any Tekton owners that could chime in?They have a good reputation for tools

I have a bunch of Tekton ratchets, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2". I'm pretty impressed with all of them, try as I might, I haven't broken any of them yet.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I have the Gearwrench 90 tooth locking flex. I love the locking flex, but a Dual 80 head is so much smoother (not a big deal in a 24" 1/2" drive). Personally, I'd probably go with the Icon G2 to get the best of both worlds; Matco/Gearwrench style locking mechanism and SnapOn (ish) style mechanism.

24" ratchets aren't necessary, but when you're lying on your back and have minimal clearance to get a good pulling position, the extra leverage makes a big difference.

 

[Hohn]

Almost all my ratchets now are Icon or Tekton with a couple Gearwrench 90s and the aforementioned Kobalt big boy. I don't own any 3/4 drive or larger. I'm only working on cars and light trucks.
I'm pretty happy with the made in taiwan stuff, and I'd take the advice of @liliysdad to heart. If you are daily using the big boy ratchet, that's one thing. But it seems to me it's sort of a rarely-used niche tool of the kind that "good enough" makes more sense.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I think that @Hakeem (original poster ) has already decided what he is getting... He had very specific needs, wants, and access to student / teacher pricing.

So most of this discussion is for others who come later just to see recommendations.

Then they can decide if we're okay with Taiwanese quality, and I haven't really had trouble there, or if they they want to step up a little bit, spend more money and maybe buy snap-on (or similar)..

Or even spend serious money and invest in something like tro design. I am still totally blown away with the quarter inch ratchet that they sent me. I have already forgotten if their next is a 1/2 (I think) or 3/8.

 

[Rinspeed]

Then they can decide if we're okay with Taiwanese quality, and I haven't really had trouble there, or if they they want to step up a little bit, spend more money and maybe buy snap-on (or similar)..

Or even spend serious money and invest in something like tro design. I am still totally blown away with the quarter inch ratchet that they sent me. I have already forgotten if their next is a 1/2 (I think) or 3/8.

Just because NAPA has great sales on Carlyle tools every four or five months I have three or four Carlyle ratchets. I don't like them as much as my Snap On ratchets but if I was on a budget I would definitely take a look at Carlyle.

 

[L.Cheapo]

I really like my Snap-on SHLFD80A. I had thought perhaps the flex head would be eventually floppy or it would be less than ideal in this long pattern, but I've had no problems on that front and put it through abusive use. They may not make the hard handle D models now, but I think the SLF80s and SHLF80s are still for sale new.

1/2" ratchet perfection, in my opinion.







Sometimes an impact doesn't fit, but you still need a lot of torque. Not a fan of locking flex heads, personally.

I vote the S-O.

 

[Jeeper99]

I did not read the entire thread ... tekton 24” extra long

1/2 Inch Drive x 24 Inch Quick-Release Extra-Long Ratchet | TEKTON

Quick-release ratchet with 90-tooth gear and 4-degree swing. Ultra-compact head and sleek, comfortable handle. SRH11224.

www.tekton.com

When you get into the extra long size the flex head really shows it's value being able to change the length by angling the handle and lift up over obstructions. When I bought my long flex head I'm really glad I didn't also spend the coin on an extra long non flex head, it would have never left my box.

I wish Tekton would sell an extra long flex head. After looking at the Icon I'd be tempted to buy one if you think you'll just use the extra long flex head on occasion.

 

[lund]

I have a long, USA-made Matco locking flex head 1/2" drive without a soft grip handle. I think it is around 28" long or maybe a little longer. It is a beast and a good compromise between flex, reach, compact head, enough teeth for the long handle, and locking flex (or not lock it ... your choice). I pull this out for stubborn lug nuts or suspension parts. I am not a pro but a home DIY guy and used Matco can typically be found much more cheaply than Snap-On. IF this does not work, I have a 3/4" SK breaker bar that is much longer and even more rigid that I use with an adapter to 1/2" sockets. Things will generally break before the 3/4 breaker bar fails. In my opinion, many people here are too fixated with long ratchets and breaker bars. Impact is much better for something that is stuck. The hammering action helps break free. I cannot imagine a pro using a huge ratchet relative to impact for something larger an severely stuck.

I only recall 3x uses where my DIY use needed the 3/4" breaker bar (meaning my 1/2" air impact could not work with extended hammering). 1) A corrosion welded crank pully bolt on Honda Civic (needed to almost pick up car to break loose). This is a notorious one some people break large impacts on.
2) Stuck 1970s hydrolic jack cycliner with about 4" diameter threads corrosion locked.
3) Some truck wheel lugs I needed to remove while helping a friend where some ***** must have hammered on them for an extended period with a large (3/4?) impact ... I am surprised the lugs did not break since they were THAT tight.

These type of stuff are very rare problems for me and are probably best dealt with via a heavy cheater pipe. Heavy machinery guys probably say otherwise but, outside of field work, I imagine would use 3/4 air impact.

 

[Drunkonunleaded]

I have a SnapOn, Kobalt, and Gearwrench, all about that length.

They all work, with no issues. Unless I need extra reach, I generally use a battery impact in lieu of the leverage a long ratchet offers.

They’re all useful when you need something that long, but they all mostly sit in their respective tool boxes taking up space. Of the three, I like the SnapOn best.

Warranty is irrelevant to me.

You're brave putting any substantial amount of torque on that Kobalt ratchet. Even using it to change a tire, the deflection is wild. I still use it when I need the reach and a compact head (it's more like a 1/2" anvil in a 3/8" head, IMO), but I don't trust putting any weight on it. It was replaced by a Carlyle. Had I not gotten a good discount on the Carlyle, it would be SnapOn or Matco, likely in that order. Although, I like the Matco locking mechanism a bit better.

 

[finn]

You're brave putting any substantial amount of torque on that Kobalt ratchet. Even using it to change a tire, the deflection is wild. I still use it when I need the reach and a compact head (it's more like a 1/2" anvil in a 3/8" head, IMO), but I don't trust putting any weight on it. It was replaced by a Carlyle. Had I not gotten a good discount on the Carlyle, it would be SnapOn or Matco, likely in that order. Although, I like the Matco locking mechanism a bit better.

Who uses a ratchet to change a tire?

That what impacts, either battery or air are for.

I use the long ratchets strictly for extended reach.