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Quick disconnect Battery terminals and replacing OEM terminal wires?

3cargarage

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May 10, 2022
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147
I run the below on all of my vehicles and love how I can pull the battery out quickly without much of a hassle but in turn they can make it pretty hard to troubleshoot when necessary because once you lift the plastic covers you lose connection to the battery. The covers also hide corrosion.

What kind of terminals can I get that are just as easy to remove but lack covers so that I can see what is going on underneath?

Also, over the years people claim to have replaced the factory battery terminal wiring. I don't understand how that is done logically. Once you get to a certain gauge even a high wattage soldering iron will do nothing. I have taken smaller gauge wire and wrapped it around both ends to create a bridge but I just don't like doing that.

Vehicle in question in this case is a 2004 Subaru Forester XT.

So how do you change the battery terminal wires out?

Thanks
 
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bwringer

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Crikey, how often are you removing batteries? Saving 60 seconds of wrenching every five years doesn't strike me as a worthwhile trade for the loss in reliability and increase in corrosion you get from having a mechanism involved.

There are quite a few good closeup photos of those terminals you linked, and I don't see any reason you couldn't just yank the plastic off and use 'em bare metal style.


In my experience. battery terminals with screw clamp terminals should only be regarded as temporary; they seem to corrode very quickly. A hydraulic crimp or solder is the only long-lasting solution.

FWIW, these folks make fantastic custom cables at good prices:

They can make cables with Anderson connectors for applications where you need to remove or replace a battery frequently:
 

K13

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St. Albert, AB Canada
Crikey, how often are you removing batteries? Saving 60 seconds of wrenching every five years doesn't strike me as a worthwhile trade for the loss in reliability and increase in corrosion you get from having a mechanism involved.

There are quite a few good closeup photos of those terminals you linked, and I don't see any reason you couldn't just yank the plastic off and use 'em bare metal style.


In my experience. battery terminals with screw clamp terminals should only be regarded as temporary; they seem to corrode very quickly. A hydraulic crimp or solder is the only long-lasting solution.

FWIW, these folks make fantastic custom cables at good prices:

They can make cables with Anderson connectors for applications where you need to remove or replace a battery frequently:
Yup the factory got it right. All any of those bolt on quick release clamps are adding are more points of potential failure.
 
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3cargarage

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Crikey, how often are you removing batteries? Saving 60 seconds of wrenching every five years doesn't strike me as a worthwhile trade for the loss in reliability and increase in corrosion you get from having a mechanism involved.

There are quite a few good closeup photos of those terminals you linked, and I don't see any reason you couldn't just yank the plastic off and use 'em bare metal style.


In my experience. battery terminals with screw clamp terminals should only be regarded as temporary; they seem to corrode very quickly. A hydraulic crimp or solder is the only long-lasting solution.

FWIW, these folks make fantastic custom cables at good prices:

They can make cables with Anderson connectors for applications where you need to remove or replace a battery frequently:
Thanks for the leads for the wiring and crimping. No pun intended. I really just like my quick disconnects honestly. No rounded nuts or any **** like that to deal with.

How often am I working with batteries. At minimum 60 seconds more than I like! At most, far more than I'd care to admit. It's not just about batteries, it's about getting behind there so you can reach other components quickly. I have 7 vehicles so I love to slipstream where I can.
 

Wrench97

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Battery cable crimpers and lugs for bolt on terminals, or crimp on battery cable ends.
1762467780040.png

1762468005288.png

But your going to find the newer the car the more specialize the cable/ends are including built in battery sensors, bult in fuses etc.
For those you are usually going to the dealer to buy cable/harness assemblies, I did one on a 2020 Honda today.
 

ChevyEFI

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Phoenix, AZ
Well, have you removed the plastic covers from those? They look semi-thin, but if you're getting mileage from them . .

My current vehicle had the terminals replaced pre-me. They take a 10mm wrench or socket, slip off the battery terminals, and I think one OEM plastic cover is intact over the positive.
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
Pickup truck snow plows use the Anderson connectors, or something like them.

The battery stays with the truck,but the 12 volt hydraulic pump motor disconnects with the plow mount

No reason one couldn’t carry that concept over to a quick connect, tool-less battery harness.

One battery end to stay with the battery, and a vehicle end for each vehicle in the fleet.

My boat might have something similar at the motor end of the harness.
 

ronkz650

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Denver, CO
Not a viable option most likely, but back in 1967 they used these fabulous spring clamps that work great. Press on for a tight fit, pry up or wiggle back and forth to remove. My dad's 1967 oldsmobile 442 still using these after nearly 60yrs. Here's what they used in 1967.
 

Retired dozer fixer

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Leesburg Indiana
Why in the hell are you disconnecting your battery cables more than once in 4-5 years?? Afraid someone is going to steal your ****? Just trying to figure out why??Buying used or junk batteries? If something is wrong with the car and it’s draining the battery… fix it
 
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3cargarage

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Why in the hell are you disconnecting your battery cables more than once in 4-5 years?? Afraid someone is going to steal your ****? Just trying to figure out why??Buying used or junk batteries? If something is wrong with the car and it’s draining the battery… fix it
Well that could be it too? It's a big country right? Brand new AGM batteries. The rest was already explained. Ease of getting to other components. I don't really need to explain why I am in there so often. I like the flexibility and others do too or they wouldn't be able to sell a product. Ever think of that??
 

finn

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Why in the hell are you disconnecting your battery cables more than once in 4-5 years?? Afraid someone is going to steal your ****? Just trying to figure out why??Buying used or junk batteries? If something is wrong with the car and it’s draining the battery… fix it
I can see the utility in his quest.

My boat and dump truck run in the spring and summer. My plow truck runs exclusively in the winter, but sits in the spring and summers.

My collector cars are used infrequently, so theoretically one battery, if easily swapped, could cover several collector or project cars.

I’m personally not ready to invest the time, but do see merit in the op’s idea.
 
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Hakeem

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Well that could be it too? It's a big country right? Brand new AGM batteries. The rest was already explained. Ease of getting to other components. I don't really need to explain why I am in there so often. I like the flexibility and others do too or they wouldn't be able to sell a product. Ever think of that??
I think many people would be reluctant to add additional points of failure to the battery system when we’re just talking about one fastener per battery terminal. More moving parts = more chances for corrosion/resistance = worse charging = premature failure of battery/alternator/starter. Plus who knows what else could go wrong with today’s newfangled vehicles and their complicated electronic systems.

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is pretty sound advice when it comes to mechanical stuff. Regardless I wish you luck in your quest and I’d be curious to see what you end up doing. :beer:
 

wolf_from_wv

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Why in the hell are you disconnecting your battery cables more than once in 4-5 years?? Afraid someone is going to steal your ****? Just trying to figure out why??Buying used or junk batteries? If something is wrong with the car and it’s draining the battery… fix it

Feels like doing things by the repair manual?

Replacing drive shaft
1. Disconnect battery.

Changing spark plugs
1. Disconnect battery.

Replace windshield wiper
1. Disconnect battery.

Add windshield wiper fluid
1. Disconnect battery.

Or at least it feels like that when you read it...
 
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3cargarage

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Feels like doing things by the repair manual?

Replacing drive shaft
1. Disconnect battery.

Changing spark plugs
1. Disconnect battery.

Replace windshield wiper
1. Disconnect battery.

Add windshield wiper fluid
1. Disconnect battery.

Or at least it feels like that when you read it...
Slam dunk! Or my version.
 

zimman

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Mark Twain National Forest
I gave this at least 30 seconds of thought and no, not for me.
These newer cars are really finicky about voltage and continuity. Any temporary use of voltage could have an impact on ECM's, PCM's and more importantly voltage regulation. "Could have"
Also how do you jumpstart the battery in needed with a halfway disconnected battery terminal?
You do you and I'll do me. LOL.
Zim
 
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3cargarage

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I gave this at least 30 seconds of thought and no, not for me.
These newer cars are really finicky about voltage and continuity. Any temporary use of voltage could have an impact on ECM's, PCM's and more importantly voltage regulation. "Could have"
Also how do you jumpstart the battery in needed with a halfway disconnected battery terminal?
You do you and I'll do me. LOL.
Zim
Hell even swapping seats require a battery disconnect!
 
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3cargarage

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The video on amazon is funny as hell. He reaches down and lifts up and the negative terminal fly's off the battery quick.
I installed a dozen batteries the last month and I'm still a no. I'm so sorry.
LOL
Zim
Amazon video? Yeah it's a bit of a pain with the jumpbox but doable. I tried to remove the covers and broke it so that's not a viable option. Root cause of my issue here is ultimately a draw with vehicle off so not related. Hey why are you changing so many batteries ahhhhh LOL.
 
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3cargarage

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Even when I was doing stereo stuff it's not like I was pulling the seats out of my truck every day!
I think we have already established a laundry list of reasons to pull a battery by now. It's time for a timing belt change. I definitely don't want to loosen even one more bolt than I need to on that job.
 

mikedodge

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On stuff I use somewhat regularely but sit long enough to potentially have battery or electrical issues I still use the good Ole quick battery disconnect knobs. On things that sit longer I pull the cable.

That Dorman set looks interesting.
 
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3cargarage

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On stuff I use somewhat regularely but sit long enough to potentially have battery or electrical issues I still use the good Ole quick battery disconnect knobs. On things that sit longer I pull the cable.

That Dorman set looks interesting.
Bottom line. With 7 vehicles I am always busy. I am curious about the Dorman. The Amazon generics have reviews saying that they break super easy.
 

JABgj

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So. California
Be wary of brass colored cheap battery terminals. They ain't brass. A moderately serviced lead terminal lasts longer and transmits power with very little fuss. The real time **** is the hold down clamps or blocks or straps.
 
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3cargarage

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Be wary of brass colored cheap battery terminals. They ain't brass. A moderately serviced lead terminal lasts longer and transmits power with very little fuss. The real time **** is the hold down clamps or blocks or straps.
I roll without those honestly. Thanks for the warnings. I wonder if the dormant are any better.
 

Meursault74

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Southern California
Haven't used any quick disconnects but Dorman makes this style s/b available at most autoparts stores:

Screenshot_20251106_151815_Chrome.jpg

As far as replacing battery cables suggest using crimp style terminals and hydraulic crimper with appropriate sized dies.
You know a bicycle guy was responsible for that design. ;)

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I prefer the original internal cam design for the QR skewer, that's what I run.

1762991001412.png
 

CJM8515

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NJ
ive changed more batteries than you can shake a stick at, in a former life i was a tow truck operator and we contracted for AAA. dont want to do the long haul tows, you drive a service truck..where your entire job is to sell people car batteries. the right tools make it painless really, that and experience.

unless this is a vehicle you use infrequently DO NOT remove the factory cables and do not mess with them.
 

PZ 1

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103
Not a viable option most likely, but back in 1967 they used these fabulous spring clamps that work great. Press on for a tight fit, pry up or wiggle back and forth to remove. My dad's 1967 oldsmobile 442 still using these after nearly 60yrs. Here's what they used in 1967.
The tangs are to be squeezed with a pliers for removing or attaching - like a corbin hose clamp.

1763492147332.png
 
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PZ 1

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103
Haven't used any quick disconnects but Dorman makes this style s/b available at most autoparts stores:

Screenshot_20251106_151815_Chrome.jpg

As far as replacing battery cables suggest using crimp style terminals and hydraulic crimper with appropriate sized dies.
It looks like it would not be much faster than a standard clamp. You still may be using a puller to remove it and an expander pliers before reinstalling it, then possibly using the hex wrench to readjust it.
 

rust in the eye

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Those quick clamps from the jungle look to be utter garbage. I'd bet on it. Overly complicated, made from the bare minimum of trash materials. What could fail?
The Dorman ones look better executed but use a screw down wire clamp(albeit 4 screws instread of the usual 2) which exposes the bare wire ends asking for corrosion, it is also a bit bulky.
It's pretty tough to improve R&R time for a device that uses a single fastener. There might be better battles to fight.
 
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