There were a lot of remarks about, “Sure glad I don’t do this for a living.”Ugh, I did that to my dad’s D14 Allis a couple years ago. What a messy, smelly task that was!
There were a lot of remarks about, “Sure glad I don’t do this for a living.”Ugh, I did that to my dad’s D14 Allis a couple years ago. What a messy, smelly task that was!
Thats some serious proper work, respect to your dad.
Over the last decades, I've seen the move to propylene glycol or beet juice. Heavy, less toxic, less corrosion.Two day project, due to interruption, and waiting for the pump. Tractor tires can be filled with various liquids to add weight for better traction. Water and calcium chloride has been standard for a long time, but is slowly being replaced with non-corrosive, more environmentally friendly materials. One of the worst problems with chloride comes from ignoring minor leaks, and just adding air to keep the tire up. Eventually the rim develops severe corrosion and fails. On the other hand, chloride is cheap, works, and doesn’t give problems if you keep the tires in good shape.
My friend brought his tractor over, and we pumped out the fluid, removed and replaced this rotting rim. I’m sure the only thing holding one bead on was the rust. There was not enough flange left for the bead breaker to bear against, so we had to go caveman, and get out the old tire hammer. Fortunately the inner flange was intact, and the bead breaker worked, but not easily. The tire came off easily, because there was no flange to pry it over. The tube was rusted to the wheel, and required some poking and prying to remove.
Surprisingly, the wheel bolts gave no trouble. Bolted the new wheel up, installed the tire with a new tube, and inflated it. It took five tries to seat the bead.
Because I don’t do this for a living, I use a cheap rubber impeller pump to remove and replace fluids. The impeller gave up and had to be replaced before we could refill the tire. It took ten gallons more to refill than was pumped out.![]()
What shopvac did you get?Unwrapped and assembled the new shopvac. Dragged the air and electro hoses outside. Pulled the hoses back inside. Cleaned up.
Yeah, I agree but not in the cards right now.A larger table so you can work standing up would make your life a lot easier. Add some tunes and zone out.
Oh! That’s not what I thought you meant.
The $60 Ridgid 16 gallon on sale at Orange Hell.What shopvac did you get?
Then you weren't keeping up.Oh! That’s not what I thought you meant.![]()


Over the last decades, I've seen the move to propylene glycol or beet juice. Heavy, less toxic, less corrosion.
I’d say use your car’s old antifreeze from the last rad flush or something, or even ask about that sort of thing at some mechanic shops.All more expensive. Windshield washer fluid, a lot lighter, still expensive, still toxic.
Beet juice is much harder to pump, all the others can be done with a drill pump, if you don’t mind waiting.
I don’t like doing it myself , but the tire guy is a minimum of $200, plus pump charge, plus labor on site, plus materials. Also going to be a second service if he finds something more than just a change.









Furthermore, as a historical note, some tires were filled with powdered lead. They still show up occasionally. Serio toxicity, environmentally unfriendly, hazardous waste.All more expensive. Windshield washer fluid, a lot lighter, still expensive, still toxic.
Beet juice is much harder to pump, all the others can be done with a drill pump, if you don’t mind waiting.
I don’t like doing it myself , but the tire guy is a minimum of $200, plus pump charge, plus labor on site, plus materials. Also going to be a second service if he finds something more than just a change.



I've run into this with old bed frames that I like to use for projects like this. It's nice rigid material, but some of it just doesn't like to be welded no matter how clean. Must be some kind of funky alloy. It also tends to be hard on bandsaw blades.I'm in the shop acid-washing one of our Rinnais today so we can brew on Monday. It takes eight to ten hours to finish and it's a hurry-up-and-wait job, so I need something to do while I'm waiting.
My desk in the shop has really janky legs that I've been wanting to replace for years. Not only are they unstable and impossible to get level, but they're in the way as I want to mount a slide-out keyboard shelf under the bench and the leg mounting hardware is in my way.
So, out to the bone yard to see what I can find.
That'll do. The M18 angle grinder paid off in full again, as that was welded to a 8" deep by four-foot long I-beam I really didn't want to lug over to the shop and back.
Cut it to fit: 30" wide for the top, 26" legs to allow for the use of leveling feet.
Which I found in the shop Connex:
Still NIB. Being a packrat pays off again.
Now for some mounts for the feet.
More from the boneyard. About the right width, hole spacing is close enough and I don't have to cut it from sheet.
Punch the holes out to 5/8", a little more cutting on the abrasive cut-off, and some hot-metal glue:
The bolts are for clamping.
I like to size the plugs for an open-corner weld
as it gives me enough weldment to grind the welds flush without weakening them.
That done, scrounge around the boneyard again for some angle. More cutting, punch a few more holes, some cleaning of the cut edges and some more hot-metal gluing:
Those are the ugliest welds I've made in years. No idea what the problem was. I cleaned down to clean, shiny metal and had the settings where they should be, but nothing but bubble-gum and goobers. Oh, well, I think it'll support a computer desk.
If I'm not feeling too lazy, I might even get that installed under the desk tonight. I could have cleaned it up and slapped some paint on, but I'm feeling rustic (and lazy) today. It'll look fine from my side of the desk.
I can think of alot of more fun ways. 6 mm, 6.5, 308, 223, 300 Win Mag . . .Agent Campbell![]()
I have a similar model in 410g. Mine is branded Montgomery Wards though and not as old as yours....Inspected, cleaned, and lubed (free to me) antique/vintage Western Field break action, single-shot shotgun. Don't have much info on this gun. Western Field was a Wards brand among others and might have been made by Savage or Mossberg. More research is needed....not sure I'll ever shoot it. Might end up being a display piece....
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Does it have a model number?I have a similar model in 410g. Mine is branded Montgomery Wards though and not as old as yours....
Inspected, cleaned, and lubed (free to me) antique/vintage Western Field break action, single-shot shotgun. Don't have much info on this gun. Western Field was a Wards brand among others and might have been made by Savage or Mossberg. More research is needed....not sure I'll ever shoot it. Might end up being a display piece....
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Nice acquisition! Is it a 12 ga.?
It's not marked. At least I haven't found a mark that tells me the gauge. Unfortunately, my knowledge of shotguns is lacking. I'm open to suggestions on figuring out the gauge....
Not having had a shotgun before I need to pick up ammo for the bonifide 12ga. shooter I do have. I’ll try it then. It’s not a high priority but will update once I figure it out.Does it fit a 12 ga. shell? That would be an answer right there.
Don't check with a 16 Ga. as those can catch the rim part of the chamber and could be very unsafely fired. Inserted partially they would flop around and the brass part would not provide the required pressure seal to the chamber and breech plate. many 12's were destroyed with an accidental chambering of a 16 in a 12.
I think the main problem was that that railing had been sitting outside in the boneyard for over twenty years. It's heavily pitted in the areas I was welding. Kind of like old exhaust pipe. From the sounds of the welding, I may not have had the best grounding, either.I've run into this with old bed frames that I like to use for projects like this. It's nice rigid material, but some of it just doesn't like to be welded no matter how clean. Must be some kind of funky alloy. It also tends to be hard on bandsaw blades.
