The VISES of Garage Journal

[1Bad55Chevy]

So.... you secured the vise to the block with 5/16" or 3/8" lag screws?

Better than drywall screws!

 

[Plastikosmd]

That is a beautiful craftsman!

I was actually looking for bigger than this 60 but the brass jaws won me over. It is in an area that sees “light use” and non-marring was helpful when driving out a cross pin or filing and such.

A bit overkill but it fits the bill nonetheless

 

[Plastikosmd]

Better than drywall screws!

That was my first choice! ( but I only had 2 of the 1 5/8 length so I had to improvise)

 

[Beerhippie]

It's a little late now, but a vise placed farther forward so the rear (fixed) jaw lines up with the edge of the stand allows one to work on long pieces held vertically.

 

[fishwatcher]

Is there a basic guide on how Wilton vise swivel bases and cleats have been built and evolved over the years?

I have a C0 where the swivel base ring plate had no teeth, so the swivel base with teeth had nothing to lock into. I replaced it with a plate with teeth and believe it is now going to be more locked in.

I have a Cadet with no plate, but it has cleats with teeth that lock up with the bottom of the swivel base.

In my limited experience, I think there are smooth plates, toothed plates, and toothed cleats with toothed swivel bases and no plates.

What are the different options and what are the pros and cons?

Here are examples of the few I that have.
The C0 swivel ring on the left has no teeth. I replaced it with a new plate with teeth. This Cadet has no plate, but has cleats (mismatched) with teeth that mate with the bottom of the swivel base.

 

[Plastikosmd]

It's a little late now, but a vise placed farther forward so the rear (fixed) jaw lines up with the edge of the stand allows one to work on long pieces held vertically.

Well I could just cut the zip ties and move it? Lol

Yea, I decided on center mount as I didn’t want to bolt (zip tie) to the floor. The radiant flooring is a bit of a pain. (I was careful when adding the 50bmg progressive press, and didn’t feel like mapping pipe again) Also I wasn’t 100% on location and at 500lb, it is stable but still can be shuffled, if needed.

For some of my the rifle work, if I need, I have a HDPE block to “bring” the rear jaw out enough to clamp. But really, it is an oversized filing and assembly vise.

Good thought tho! It was considered and as a blessing I think I have 8 other options to chose from in a pinch!

 

[Ultradog MN]

It's a little late now, but a vise placed farther forward so the rear (fixed) jaw lines up with the edge of the stand allows one to work on long pieces held vertically.

Agree.
I drilled 2 sets of mounting holes. One with the fixed jaw behind the front of the stand and the other so I can clamp something vertical if needed.
I also removed the swivel base.
The parts for it are sstashed in a drawer somewhere.

 

[Outlawmws]

Agree.
I drilled 2 sets of mounting holes. One with the fixed jaw behind the front of the stand and the other so I can clamp something vertical if needed.
I also removed the swivel base.
The parts for it are sstashed in a drawer somewhere.

For something like that in end grain, I'd get some of those screw in wood anchors and use regular bolts.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Is there a basic guide on how Wilton vise swivel bases and cleats have been built and evolved over the years?

I have a C0 where the swivel base ring plate had no teeth, so the swivel base with teeth had nothing to lock into. I replaced it with a plate with teeth and believe it is now going to be more locked in.

I have a Cadet with no plate, but it has cleats with teeth that lock up with the bottom of the swivel base.

In my limited experience, I think there are smooth plates, toothed plates, and toothed cleats with toothed swivel bases and no plates.

What are the different options and what are the pros and cons?

Here are examples of the few I that have.
The C0 swivel ring on the left has no teeth. I replaced it with a new plate with teeth. This Cadet has no plate, but has cleats (mismatched) with teeth that mate with the bottom of the swivel base.

Most all of these gentlemen are your basic guide, if/when they have the time to volunteer some. These pics are from the ‘54 catalog, where they state the dog-earred plate is a newer design.


Simple drawing..
Is it accurate to say you still seek this plate, but with teeth and accompanying centering pin? If so; be sure to post that is what you seek over in the parts swap thread. I do hope the ‘54 catalog clears up some info.

 

[fishwatcher]

Most all of these gentlemen are your basic guide, if/when they have the time to volunteer some. These pics are from the ‘54 catalog, where they state the dog-earred plate is a newer design.


Simple drawing..
Is it accurate to say you still seek this plate, but with teeth and accompanying centering pin? If so; be sure to post that is what you seek over in the parts swap thread. I do hope the ‘54 catalog clears up some info.

Thank you for the catalog pictures!

I acquired the locking plate with teeth and centering bolt on the right in this picture from @autopts. It fits well and replaces the ring with no teeth that came with the vise (the one on the left). I don’t know what model the new one normally comes with now, but he said it’s from Wilton and is likely of imported origin.

I did this upgrade after trying to remove a cassette from a hub on a bike wheel while clamped in the vise, the vise slipped at the swivel base while “locked” in.

I was wondering why the base would have teeth, but the original (as I received it) ring had no teeth to mate with it. Doesn’t make sense to me.

 

[fishwatcher]

Most all of these gentlemen are your basic guide, if/when they have the time to volunteer some. These pics are from the ‘54 catalog, where they state the dog-earred plate is a newer design.


Simple drawing..
Is it accurate to say you still seek this plate, but with teeth and accompanying centering pin? If so; be sure to post that is what you seek over in the parts swap thread. I do hope the ‘54 catalog clears up some info.

Mine is a 76’ per the date on the key. I wonder if the C0 didn’t get the improved swivel locking feature that the Bullets got. That still seems odd to me. It could also be, that mine is a mutt.. with parts from other Wiltons.

 

[micahd1997]

The classic marriage of brass and steel is a combination as old as time. Obviously, the Prentiss Vise Company and Bagley & Sewall (the company who made Prentiss’ vises) understood that. At nearly 90 years old, this 2.5” “brass tag” Prentiss № 511 Bull Dog vise is a testament to the bygone belief that tools can be usable AND easy on the eyes.

This № 511 weighs a mere 14 lbs., and it’s the smallest vise in the “brass tag” series. While vises in the “brass tag” line aren’t very common, they do have a more widely known twin – a vise that’s identical in every way EXCEPT that the logo is CAST into the vise (see last picture) rather than onto a wafer-thin brass tag. The “cast-in” models are much more readily available.

Given the relative scarcity of vises in the “brass tag” Prentiss line, some speculate that they were a commemorative gesture to celebrate the company’s 70-year anniversary in 1938 (70 years after Mason Prentiss’ swivel jaw patent in 1868). While certainly possible, incredibly few advertisements were circulated by the Prentiss Vise Company in the 30s and 40s, so this theory remains unconfirmed. However, what CAN be confirmed with a high degree of confidence is that the “brass tag” line was only manufactured for a short period of time between 1936-1940. The Prentiss Vise Company completely re-designed their Bull Dog line in their 1936 catalogue. Around 1940, they re-issued the catalogue with a few changes, namely the introduction of their new № 504 “Tool Room” vise and an announcement that they’d begun reinforcing the jaws of their Bull Dog vises with a hardened steel pin. I’ve inspected 30+ “brass tag” Bull Dog vises, and I have yet to see one bearing the hardened steel pin, leading me to believe the line was discontinued by the end of 1940 (though there are many examples of Bull Dog vises with the CAST-IN logo that bear the hardened steel pin). The existence of at least two Prentiss, “brass tag” № 504 “Tool Room” vises suggests either 1) that Prentiss continued to manufacture their № 504s with brass tags for a longer period of time than for the Bull Dog line or, 2) that both the № 504s AND the entire “brass tag” Bull Dog line was only manufactured during/near 1940.

Whatever the case, I’m thrilled to display this vise alongside a much larger brass tag (also made by Bagley & Sewall) for one of their multi-ton paper-making machines. The similarities between the tags are undeniable.

 

[lyonkster]

My first post on this great thread - I'm not much of a woodworker (more of a mechanic type of guy), but this Wilton woodworking vise came with the house we bought, so how could I say no?




I'd like to clean it up a bit and put it to use, but I see that the pop up dog assembly is missing. I haven't been able to find a replacement, so I'm thinking of maybe making my own. Does anyone know if these dogs were just a block of steel with a thumbscrew, or were they spring loaded?

Another option it to buy a spare dog from a different vise, hoping it might fit. For example, the dog assembly for this Shop Fox looks similar:





Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Ultradog MN]

My first post on this great thread - I'm not much of a woodworker (more of a mechanic type of guy), but this Wilton woodworking vise came with the house we bought, so how could I say no?




I'd like to clean it up a bit and put it to use, but I see that the pop up dog assembly is missing. I haven't been able to find a replacement, so I'm thinking of maybe making my own. Does anyone know if these dogs were just a block of steel with a thumbscrew, or were they spring loaded?

Another option it to buy a spare dog from a different vise, hoping it might fit. For example, the dog assembly for this Shop Fox looks similar:





Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Too bad you're so far away. I could probably make a new one for you if you provided the celebratory beverages after we finished.

 

[lyonkster]

Too bad you're so far away. I could probably make a new one for you if you provided the celebratory beverages after we finished.

That's a very kind offer, I would be happy to take you up on it if all else fails (happy to cover shipping cost as well as celebratory beverages ).

I'm not opposed to trying to make my own, assuming the off-the-shelf options like the one I posted above wouldn't work. I'm assuming just a 1/2" thick steel bar stock would work as a starting point?

 

[RTM]

Does anyone know if these dogs were just a block of steel with a thumbscrew, or were they spring loaded?

I have the equivalent Record brand vices (they are English. And spell it this way) and they have a thumb screw holding it in position.

The new Wilton vises look like they have a pin holding it in the up position. Not sure I like that because I sometimes put mine only a fraction of the way up.

This '70s vintage catalog seems to show a fixed pin so I would assume there is a leaf spring behind this somehow

Wilton Clamping Tools : Vises, C-Clamps & Special Clamps, PowRarm Work Positioners, Hydraulic Vises : Catalog No. 131 : Wilton Tool Division : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

48 p., illus., 27.9 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

 

[lyonkster]

I have the equivalent Record brand vices (they are English. And spell it this way) and they have a thumb screw holding it in position.

The new Wilton vises look like they have a pin holding it in the up position. Not sure I like that because I sometimes put mine only a fraction of the way up.

This '70s vintage catalog seems to show a fixed pin so I would assume there is a leaf spring behind this somehow

Wilton Clamping Tools : Vises, C-Clamps & Special Clamps, PowRarm Work Positioners, Hydraulic Vises : Catalog No. 131 : Wilton Tool Division : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

48 p., illus., 27.9 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure of the model of my vise, it seems close to a 53A, but not exactly. The 53A does show a fixed pin and a leaf spring, discontinued of course:

 

[Outlawmws]

Thursday Estate sale got me this Palmgren 2-1/2" DP vise. some light surface rust but otherwise in pretty good condition. looks like one oops in the jaw surface, and one of that jaws screws are MIA, but no other "battle damage" They had a very small Taiwan DP that I'd class as a "hobby" DP.

 

[micahd1997]

Thursday Estate sale got me this Palmgren 2-1/2" DP vise. some light surface rust but otherwise in pretty good condition. looks like one oops in the jaw surface, and one of that jaws screws are MIA, but no other "battle damage" They had a very small Taiwan DP that I'd class as a "hobby" DP.

Lots of original paint still present

 

[RTM]

Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure of the model of my vise, it seems close to a 53A, but not exactly. The 53A does show a fixed pin and a leaf spring, discontinued of course:

The discontinued should not bother us, we are GJ. As you noted, bar stock and a pin should work. Not sure if my local Ace stocks leaf springs, or if you need to make your own, or buy from McMaster.

From that perspective, the thumbscrew might be an easier option. Won't look quite factory, but I'd focus more on performance.

And you can start with a thumbscrew than change to a pin when you find a leaf spring of suitable size n shape.

 

[Outlawmws]

If there is a pocket for the leaf spring in the vise, I'd go that route. If it was in the dog, I'd go thumb screw...

 

[KMScott]

If a pocket for a flat spring is there you could use like a .020 feeler gage which is spring steel heat treated to spring temper. Having it long enough to form a banana shape would work. Having annealed spring steel heat treated is expensive.

 

[lyonkster]

Yeah, I found a shallow pocket for the a spring, though I think the thumbscrew would be easier to use. I'll start by fabricating the dog and attempt a homemade leaf spring, then see how I like it .



Edited to add: would this be a good starting point, or is it too hard and I should go with a hot rolled piece?

 

[Ultradog MN]

Yeah, I found a shallow pocket for the a spring, though I think the thumbscrew would be easier to use. I'll start by fabricating the dog and attempt a homemade leaf spring, then see how I like it .



Edited to add: would this be a good starting point, or is it too hard and I should go with a hot rolled piece?

It would work but 4140 is hard to machine (cut, drill and tap threads if needed)
An ordinary piece of cold rolled , even hot rolled would be better.

 

[lyonkster]

It would work but 4140 is hard to machine (cut, drill and tap threads if needed)
An ordinary piece of cold rolled , even hot rolled would be better.

Thanks, that was my concern as well, I'll go with the hot rolled version:

 

[tommy555555]

picked this vise up today.. base says 101198.. says its a wilton. would anyone know what model.. thanks

 

[TheRealZeus]

Wilton tradesman. 17XX, whereas ** is jaw width. E.g.; 1750 vise is 5”, & 1755 tradesman vise is 5.5 inch jaw width.

 

[tommy555555]

Wilton tradesman. 17XX, whereas ** is jaw width. E.g.; 1750 vise is 5”, & 1755 tradesman vise is 5.5 inch jaw width.

thanks.. how would i tell the age.. i paid $25 so i think i did ok, aside from the person painting it

 

[TheRealZeus]

The rectangular steel stock on the bottom of the cylindrical slide is called the keyway, during production that keyway may have been stamped with a “warranty expiration date.” the warranty date stamp is another topic all-in-itself, but will give you an approximate time of production. Here are a couple links to assist your research…
Much of what you wish to learn is here, just finding it may become a pain in the keister..
Be sure to check out both the “Vise info thread..” & i’m pretty sure I’ve discovered neat-o tidbits of knowledge in the unofficial vise parts swap thread, as well.

Vise Info Thread

I put together an Excel Spreadsheet with specs, links to pics, as well as a second worksheet that has links for brochures, general ads, news articles and patents. Vise Info Spreadsheet - Specs & Brochures...

www.garagejournal.com

Wilton Vise History

Hi all, I've been looking around for any history on Wilton vises and it is sparse at best. The reason I would like this info is because I am writing an article for a new website, http://junkyardtools.com (site is currently offline while I build it in PHP format.) Sorry for the shameless plug...

www.garagejournal.com

additional info resources;

Wilton Vise Date Stamping • MIVise

***Note: If you’re reading this post so you can cut and paste portions for your eBay listing please be kind enough to cite the source. There were a lot of people before me who put time into collecting this information and they should at least be given credit.*** One of the most common questions...

mivise.com

Wilton Machinist 'Bullet' Vise: Overview - Archimedes Cafe

The Wilton Machinist Vise, also known as Wilton Bullet Vise, is iconic, highly sought after, and has an aggressive collector's market. Oh yeah, I hear it also

archimedescafe.com

 

[TheRealZeus]

$25… Even the gentleman who hate on Wilton’s would have bought it for 25 bucks, because it’s likely a good vise. the only thing I see, that gave me pause was the red ring on the underside of the baseplate…
The locking nut pads with teeth pictured here is more what I have come upon on the tradesman vises I have restored.

 

[tommy555555]

$25… Even the gentleman who hate on Wilton’s would have bought it for 25 bucks, because it’s likely a good vise. the only thing I see, that gave me pause was the red ring on the underside of the baseplate…
The locking nut pads with teeth pictured here is more what I have come upon on the tradesman vises I have restored.

i was looking through endless google images trying to find one with a base like i have.. most/all have that ring of teeth(as you said) where i have a clean base .. i have no clue if its a knock off of some kind

 

[TheRealZeus]

Sorry for the delay.. always juggling.
Here is another thread with more tradesman specifics info:
Posted in thread 'Value of 1972 Wilton 1750 vise'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/value-of-1972-wilton-1750-vise.449461/post-8435356

..Yeah, some people see that ring and dismiss the tool in it’s entirety. A redeeming factor about Wilton as they still produce and sell replacement parts, and their vises remain extremely modular. People do not know that, or operating on a “ yeah that’s nice. I can’t afford parts”-type budget, & may find a temporary solutions by cannibalizing parts that fit.

That said, they are often copied. The huge “1” is not a normal, good indicator. pictures of the under jaws with the brown gobbed on paint does not help.

Excellent indicator that the vise is American made is it says so. note the manufacturer forge “stamped marking” as well as other raised lettering. The symbols help with narrowing the discernment of country of origin. As always, Wiltons that flat out say “made in USA,” leave no questions/guessing.

I believe the raised lettering was removed from the casting design, in lieu of an aluminum plate, at some point. Again, be wildin’… “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery..” Wilton’s were being copied, which may have been a contributing factor, when they decided to move some of their production overseas. I do not know for certain.

 

[tommy555555]

Sorry for the delay.. always juggling.
Here is another thread with more tradesman specifics info:
Posted in thread 'Value of 1972 Wilton 1750 vise'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/value-of-1972-wilton-1750-vise.449461/post-8435356

..Yeah, some people see that ring and dismiss the tool in it’s entirety. A redeeming factor about Wilton as they still produce and sell replacement parts, and their vises remain extremely modular. People do not know that, or operating on a “ yeah that’s nice. I can’t afford parts”-type budget, & may find a temporary solutions by cannibalizing parts that fit.

That said, they are often copied. The huge “1” is not a normal, good indicator. pictures of the under jaws with the brown gobbed on paint does not help.

Excellent indicator that the vise is American made is it says so. note the manufacturer forge “stamped marking” as well as other raised lettering. The symbols help with narrowing the discernment of country of origin. As always, Wiltons that flat out say “made in USA,” leave no questions/guessing.

I believe the raised lettering was removed from the casting design, in lieu of an aluminum plate, at some point. Again, be wildin’… “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery..” Wilton’s were being copied, which may have been a contributing factor, when they decided to move some of their production overseas. I do not know for certain.

thanks for the info..tomorrow im gonna try and use a heat gun to get some of the house paint off to get a better idea.. even if fake im still happy with it ( not as happy if it was real ) cause i needed a vise and this thing looks pretty tuff and is about 70 lbs

 

[tommy555555]

Sorry for the delay.. always juggling.
Here is another thread with more tradesman specifics info:
Posted in thread 'Value of 1972 Wilton 1750 vise'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/value-of-1972-wilton-1750-vise.449461/post-8435356

..Yeah, some people see that ring and dismiss the tool in it’s entirety. A redeeming factor about Wilton as they still produce and sell replacement parts, and their vises remain extremely modular. People do not know that, or operating on a “ yeah that’s nice. I can’t afford parts”-type budget, & may find a temporary solutions by cannibalizing parts that fit.

That said, they are often copied. The huge “1” is not a normal, good indicator. pictures of the under jaws with the brown gobbed on paint does not help.

Excellent indicator that the vise is American made is it says so. note the manufacturer forge “stamped marking” as well as other raised lettering. The symbols help with narrowing the discernment of country of origin. As always, Wiltons that flat out say “made in USA,” leave no questions/guessing.

I believe the raised lettering was removed from the casting design, in lieu of an aluminum plate, at some point. Again, be wildin’… “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery..” Wilton’s were being copied, which may have been a contributing factor, when they decided to move some of their production overseas. I do not know for certain.

this kinda looks like it

Wilton 1750 for $40 with bench :)

Got this last week for $40 with the bench it came on. The guy was actually listing the bench for $40 and secondarily describing it that it came with a vise. So I took it off his hands:D It is my understanding that the 1750 is the Tradesman vise and it is also a vise Snap On sells. I could not...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[tommy555555]

 

[gman007]

I did a quick search here and did not find any posts for this video, but if it has been already posted. I apologize ahead of time.

I have no association with this guy and in fact since these test were not performed by an independent and unbiased third party, I would take any claims made in this video with a grain of salt. For one thing he did not include any of the Reed vises in his tests. Nevertheless personally I found it entertaining and thought some might enjoy it as well.

 

[gman007]

And I got this interesting text from a good friend

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

I did a quick search here and did not find any posts for this video, but if it has been already posted. I apologize ahead of time.

I have no association with this guy and in fact since these test were not performed by an independent and unbiased third party, I would take any claims made in this video with a grain of salt. For one thing he did not include any of the Reed vises in his tests. Nevertheless personally I found it entertaining and thought some might enjoy it as well.

There is a thread on Fireball vises. Keep digging on his channel he does compare it to a Reed 208 (maybe a 108 dont remember). If I remember right someone sent it to him to test so they just push it to the handle bending stage. To rare and expensive to push it to complete failure for no reason.

Fireball Tool Hardtail Vise - The Best Vise On The Market???

Jason over at Fireball tool unveiled the production model of his handmade vise at Fabtech this week calling it the Hardtail Vise. Unfortunately due to my busy work schedule I was unable to attend and see it in person. It looks like an incredible tool that could arguably be the nicest vise...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[tommy555555]

Sorry for the delay.. always juggling.
Here is another thread with more tradesman specifics info:
Posted in thread 'Value of 1972 Wilton 1750 vise'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/value-of-1972-wilton-1750-vise.449461/post-8435356

..Yeah, some people see that ring and dismiss the tool in it’s entirety. A redeeming factor about Wilton as they still produce and sell replacement parts, and their vises remain extremely modular. People do not know that, or operating on a “ yeah that’s nice. I can’t afford parts”-type budget, & may find a temporary solutions by cannibalizing parts that fit.

That said, they are often copied. The huge “1” is not a normal, good indicator. pictures of the under jaws with the brown gobbed on paint does not help.

Excellent indicator that the vise is American made is it says so. note the manufacturer forge “stamped marking” as well as other raised lettering. The symbols help with narrowing the discernment of country of origin. As always, Wiltons that flat out say “made in USA,” leave no questions/guessing.

I believe the raised lettering was removed from the casting design, in lieu of an aluminum plate, at some point. Again, be wildin’… “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery..” Wilton’s were being copied, which may have been a contributing factor, when they decided to move some of their production overseas. I do not know for certain.

i took it apart.. the base has teeth like the others but on this one the lock nut has a threaded bolt attached to it which goes through to the plate.. im guessing at some point the parts were lost/broke and he put it back together as best he could. the inside shaft says 6 83

 

[ebarker9]

I unfortunately managed to break my Chas Parker 973 swivel vise putting entirely too much force into it doing a bicycle project. Given the location of the crack I'm assuming this is probably a long shot for a repair?



I did take the opportunity to track down another Parker vise, this time a larger 23x as a replacement. This one might get a full strip down and paint job.