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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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@D.F.B, our pets don't speak our language so we make assumptions about what they are trying to tell us. The wagging tail when we show them a treat or standing by the door to be let out to do their business are pretty easy to read. Their request to end their pain and suffering is almost always an unfamiliar message. We have helped enough of our pets to get to the Rainbow Bridge to at least suspect that's the message they are sending.

Our Pug, Ellie, was having trouble swallowing, with horrible coughing episodes so the vet prescribed pills she refused to take. They had to go down whole so we wrapped the pills in her favorite food. She got real good at eating the wrapper and spitting the pill out the side of her mouth so we resorted to jamming the pills down her throat with an index finger. When her condition got worse, we took her to the vet on Monday, December 22, 2019 and told them we could no longer torture her so please end her suffering. We wanted to be with her at the end so we were surprised the vet said she was fine and sent us home with Ellie, hacking and coughing.

I got up early four days later (Boxing Day) and Ellie was in the kitchen lying a foot or so from her food and water bowls. Apparently she passed (alone) some time late Christmas night. That's a betrayal we'll never forget.
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Faych went downhill so quickly that there was some concern if we'd get him home before the vet made the house call. I didn't want him to pass at the vet clinic, I wanted him home, in his favorite spot and as comfortable as possible with his people around him. So it breaks my heart to read the way it played out for you. We put so much trust into those who care for our companions, but they are human, and so are you. We don't always get it right, but hearts were in the right place.

@D.F.B, we went three years without a buddy when our Bichon passed. When we decided it was time, we went to our local no-kill shelter and Liane asked to see their Bichon Frise rescues. They had none so I turned to leave and almost tripped over the cage containing the cutest Pug I had ever seen. We asked to take her home and they wanted to know if this was our first dog. When we said no, they asked for the name of our vet. They called the vet's office and asked what kind of pet owners we were. The woman started laughing and we asked what the vet's receptionist said that was so funny. She told us the receptionist said: "When I die, I hope I am reincarnated as their dog." While this is going on, another patron asked how much they wanted for the Pug. Apparently $200 was too much so there was no altercation and Miss Ellie came home with us. Her full name is Eleanor Roosevelt Heine. One of us saw a resemblance...
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After we took Ellie to the vet to be cremateed, we lasted two months before heading back to the shelter. The first visit, I handed Liane a tiny, bird-like Yorkie but she was afraid we would step on it and go through another horror show. On the way out a mutt with a "Pug Mix" on the cage started barking at Liane. We were too upset to make a decision and went home. Loneliness and misery sent us back to the shelter a week later and that "Pug Mix" started going crazy, barking and jumping around at the sight of Liane. It growled at me. The sign on the cage explained that the mutt was a Puerto Rican Sato, the common street dog of the island. The shelter had rescued a few hundred dogs from the island, which had been devastated by hurricanes a few years before. The dog had already been named Jasmine, had her shots, neutering and a chip. Jasmine was apparently flown first class from Puerto Rico to Florida because they wanted $550 for her. Before I could say a word, Liane pulled a wad of cash out of her purse and handed it over. They must have had our name in the computer because it was a no questions asked transaction.

My Kardia Mobile app indicated my Atrial Fibrilation had returned and because it was my third major episode, I spent a day in the hospital getting a Cardio Ablation. They cut the left Femoral artery and insert a hose full of tools and cameras up into the heart and zap or freeze the nerves causing the rapid contractions. When I returned home the next day, the news had a story about a mystery disease that was killing people. It was the start of the COVID-19 fiasco. Jasmine and Liane were relaxing on the couch, watching Animal Planet when I walked into the master bedroom. It appeared Jasmine had some Rhodesian Ridgeback in her background and she mistook me for a lion. We suspect Jasmine was targeted by big fat men when she lived on the beaches and streets of Puerto Rico and I looked like one of them. I have slowly won her over a bit by showing up with a Mini Milk Bone or Charlie Bear treat every time I get near her. She still barks when I walk into the master bedroom but now her tail is wagging.

When I first started at the nursery back in the early 2000's, they had a rottweiler guard dog. During the day, they would have him out back away from customers...................and the workers as well. After close, he was free to roam the property. He was massive and most certainly an imposing figure, perfect guard dog then. I was so shy and so timid that naturally I was frightened of this dog, but also frightened of the reaction the other works I'd get when he would bark at me when I had to walk past him. Being the newbie, he naturally barked at me as he saw me as an intruder.

Over time, he barked at me less and less. I then began feeding and talking to him, I eventually got a few pats in. So, while Butch initially found me a threat, he accepted me and began to love me like the rest. I will admit though, even in the later years I was still intimidated by him.
 
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D.F.B

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ShineMate EB212 - Recap & Usage Update

Now that I've got a feel for this machine, it's time for an update of this thread.

To recap, the ShineMate EB212 is a dedicated 3-inch dual action battery polisher. Available in kit or skin forms, the unit is powered by a 10.8v battery system with 2.5 and 5.0 ah sizes offered. As with any ShineMate product, the value proposition is exceptional, an ideal middle ground between box store junk and high-end pro-grade brands.

Depending on how you look at it, this machine could be seen as a Chinese knock off of a Mirka AROP-B, and I can certainly appreciate that thought. At the end of the day, the overall form of a polisher is pretty much universal these days. Occasionally you will see something out of the ordinary, the Rupes HLR75 "stiletto" for example, but for the most part everyone is following the same formula. On the other hand, ShineMate have taken influence from its competitors and made improvements, so they are at least innovating in some capacity. I think the smaller multi-purpose EB210 is a great example of that.

Usage Notes -

I now have time using the EB212 on paint, glass and headlights.

Headlights -

My first use of the EB212 was to refine a set of headlights after wet sanding. In this case, I had the headlights on the bench, which made it a little awkward to polish. With the smaller 2.5 ah battery, I found I could use the machine single handed with relative ease. No way would that have been possible with a corded/hosed machine, and certainly not the mammoth EB351 3/12 this polisher replaced.

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Paint -

On paint, the EB212 is a beast. Don't let the tiny footprint fool you, this thing has plenty of torque, in fact, way more than the big EB351 3/12. By association, the EB212 is also highly resistant to stalling, a common dual action complaint. And it's that extra torque and resistance to stall that makes this machine do its job quicker and easier.

The overall footprint is basically perfect. The compact size is appreciated when using the machine in space restricted areas, as well as being more ergonomic when used at weird angles.

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Glass -

With glass, technique and stall resistance are less critical as you really aren't correcting, rather deep cleaning. Having said that, the speed potential and torque are nice to have. Like the headlights, I found in certain instances I could use the machine single handed, reaching into the middle of the windscreen for example.

Being a 3-inch machine, it's ideal for smaller side glass, but probably not efficient on large front and rear windscreens, although that's not unique to the EB212.

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Batteries -

I bought this machine in kit form with the included single 2.5 ah battery, but I also added the larger 5.0 ah to the order. I think you want (need) both. The small battery is perfect for intricate areas, but in more open areas, the 5.0 ah battery helps balance the weight of the power head and gives a more stable place to hold the machine from. You can also stand the machine upright on the larger battery.

Battery range is also worth considering when buying one of these polishers. The 2.5 ah is perfectly adequate and has the advantage of a leaner footprint. However, I've found this machine overall is so nice to use that I tend to grab it more often................which means I use more battery. The larger 5.0 ah supports that much better, so I would highly suggest adding it to your order.

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NVH -

One of the key selling points of the EB212 is the smooth and quiet running characteristics. I'd still wear hearing protection, especially if you do this all day everyday, but the overall balance and rubberized touch points help limit noise and vibration related fatigue. Those rubberized touch points are largely missing from the Rupes HLR75 and LHR75, Flex PXE-80, and from the looks of things, the Mirka as well.

I've not used a Mirka, but it certainly sounds a few steps above the EB212 in terms of smoothness and noise reduction, but then it's also 2.9 to 3.3 times more expensive.


Room For Improvement -

No matter how much you spend, no polisher is perfect.

The first thing to note with the EB212 is how much heat this machine generates, no doubt a result of its power and the small cooling vents. For that reason, be mindful not to block those vents with your fingers.

I'm also not a fan of how the speed is controlled, the digital buttons are not as ergonomic as a proper speed dial. But that is most likely personal preference.

Also, the double tap to engage the trigger lock can take a little practice to sync with. Once the unit is powered up, squeeze the trigger for a second or two, then quickly double tap the trigger to engage the lock. (The machine has to be spinning for a second or two before the double tap will work). To release, simply tap the trigger again. It can be frustrating until you gel with that procedure, but once you have, it makes sense. Put it this way, I'd much prefer this than not having one at all (Mirka). Actually, one of the reasons why the Mirka is so expensive is how its speed is controlled via software and the supporting smart phone app.

Apart from that, I really can't fault it further.

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Overall, the EB212 is an impressive machine. It's too early to know how reliable it will be, but going off other ShineMate models, I don't expect there to a problem going forward. If needed, the machine itself has a two-year warranty, one-year on the batteries.
 
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D.F.B

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A selection of parts I've tracked down for the Razor restoration.

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Holding things up has been the PLP takeover of Victa, until this week dealers had been locked out of parts supply until PLP had completed a stock take. In particular, I'm chasing new side wear strips and a height adjuster quadrant. These are always beat up or completely missing. Apparently, they are still available and at reasonable price, but will be a special order, of which I still waiting to hear back about. I'd also love to just buy the unique handle as that would allow me to make my own Razor from a donor Mustang, but the handles are NLA.

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And after checking through part numbers from my NOS haul, it turns out I have a few key engine parts, including both intake and exhaust valves for my preferred B&S Quantum engine option. I also have a brand-new snorkel kit.

I just need the actual mower now. I've found a few but they are either too beat up, missing key parts or have the wrong engine. Fun and games.
 

Bob Heine

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To recap, the ShineMate EB212 is a dedicated 3-inch dual action battery polisher. Available in kit or skin forms, the unit is powered by a 10.8v battery system
@D.F.B, your write-up had me so close to placing an order. Then I went back and re-read it. My first lithium battery powered tools were made by Flex. They use 10.8 batteries and were very light and worked great. Kit came with a hex impact, drill and LED work light. That was the extent of the Flex battery line (I have one of their corded buffers). I wanted more battery powered tools so I jumped on a few Porter Cable tools that used 12v batteries. Harbor Freight had a great deal on a 12v multi-tool so that followed me home. A Sears clearance sale on Nextec tools added a fourth 12v battery system to my collection, each with a different form factor meaning four battery chargers and within a few years, no more support and no more OEM batteries. I had already been through this nightmare with NiCad tools from Black & Decker, Harbor Freight, Craftsman and a bunch of no-name tools so I should have known better. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me 12 times, shame on me I'm an idiot.

When the Yellow and Red battery tools became dominant, I went Red because they offered a PVC cutter tool I really needed in a lighter (lightish?) 12v and Yellow only had a bigger 20v. Since then I just put on blinders and loudly say la-la-la-la until the temptation to buy a non-Red battery tool goes away. My 18v tools are also Red but there are only a few of those. My collection of Red tools and batteries is now large enough that I'm safe if and when Red changes to another voltage and/or battery form factor.

You did force me to buy a Milwaukee M12 buffer/sander because all my current buffers are corded or pneumatic. My pneumatic tool collection would be another sign I'm an idiot but other than converting the hose reels, hoses and tools (with whips) to V-style high flow plugs and couplers years ago, the possibility it will all be made obsolete is small. Same with the corded tools, although I would have to buy transformers and adapters if I ever moved back to Australia. Hmmmm.
 
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D.F.B

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@D.F.B, your write-up had me so close to placing an order. Then I went back and re-read it. My first lithium battery powered tools were made by Flex. They use 10.8 batteries and were very light and worked great. Kit came with a hex impact, drill and LED work light. That was the extent of the Flex battery line (I have one of their corded buffers). I wanted more battery powered tools so I jumped on a few Porter Cable tools that used 12v batteries. Harbor Freight had a great deal on a 12v multi-tool so that followed me home. A Sears clearance sale on Nextec tools added a fourth 12v battery system to my collection, each with a different form factor meaning four battery chargers and within a few years, no more support and no more OEM batteries. I had already been through this nightmare with NiCad tools from Black & Decker, Harbor Freight, Craftsman and a bunch of no-name tools so I should have known better. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me 12 times, shame on me I'm an idiot.

When the Yellow and Red battery tools became dominant, I went Red because they offered a PVC cutter tool I really needed in a lighter (lightish?) 12v and Yellow only had a bigger 20v. Since then I just put on blinders and loudly say la-la-la-la until the temptation to buy a non-Red battery tool goes away. My 18v tools are also Red but there are only a few of those. My collection of Red tools and batteries is now large enough that I'm safe if and when Red changes to another voltage and/or battery form factor.

You did force me to buy a Milwaukee M12 buffer/sander because all my current buffers are corded or pneumatic. My pneumatic tool collection would be another sign I'm an idiot but other than converting the hose reels, hoses and tools (with whips) to V-style high flow plugs and couplers years ago, the possibility it will all be made obsolete is small. Same with the corded tools, although I would have to buy transformers and adapters if I ever moved back to Australia. Hmmmm.

Yeah, it's a tough call when it comes to battery "systems". I set this up last year to get everything in one place, and I've added a couple more since.

- Makita 18v
- Stihl AK 36v
- Milwaukee M12 and M18 (I have tools in both)
- EGO 56v
- Solo 10.8v
- Stihl AS 10.8v
- Briggs & Stratton 18v

Not pictured that I've since added -

- ShineMate 18v
- ShineMate 10.8v
- Rupes 10.8v
- Rupes 18v

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So, I'm one of those idiots who has both red and blue battery systems. I started with blue, mainly because at the time Makita was the superior brand. But then Milwaukee took off in both M12 and M18 formats, I only went that direction because at the time Makita wasn't making a battery powered heat gun. I also think the red team battery tech is superior. As always, the tide ebbs and flows, I remember when I started getting into tools in the early 2000's, it was DeWalt and Bosch that were the leaders.

I know a lot of people get stuck on the desire to stay in one battery "ecosystem", but I'd rather have the tool I want rather than settling for something that only meets one requirement, ie the battery. Naturally, there is a cost implication to that, but with how battery and tool kits are packaged these days, quite often you end up getting a better deal buying kits over a skin. EGO would be most obvious in that regard. The price of batteries as a separate item is almost always way out of line. Naturally, they do this on purpose, causing consumers to spend the extra money, even if it means throwing away the additional chargers.
 
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D.F.B

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I've been suffering from fatigue over the last couple of days, no doubt the result of the last 10-days. But I push on.........................

Yesterday I gave the Ranger it's weekly wash, and having rained, it was covered in road film. Today it was the Wildtrak's turn, again covered in grime and mud from the wet weather over the weekend. The common theme with both being the use of NV Snow.


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I say this all the time, but every time I return to this soap, I'm genuinely surprised with its ability. Snow has the slickness of Koch Chemie GSF and Carpro Reset, but its easier to pour and mix, foams better, offers superior cleaning power and rinses more freely. The scent is considerably more subtle that those rivals, but its uniquely pleasant and hardly a deal breaker. I also like that it has no gloss additives or fillers, it just cleans and leaves a residue free finish.

The cleaning power is such that I don't really need two soaps to deal with baked on road film, as in an alkaline pre-soak followed by a pH neutral for contact washing. I just foam with Snow and leave it to dwell, the following rinse will remove most of that grime before re-foaming for the contact wash.

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To cap it all off, Snow is one of the best value high-end soaps on the market (in Australia at least). And that includes what's available at the box stores. For example, 4-litres of Snow retails for $82.45, a 3.78-litre (1 gallon) bottle of the also very good Meguiar's Hyper Wash sits is $99 at full RRP. And even if you find it on discount, you are left with a soap that is harder to work with owing to its thick/sticky consistency and the way it reactivates when rinsing. The dirt-cheap house-brand soaps are junk, they lack lubrication and cleaning power, while also requiring very high dose rates to do the same job.
 
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D.F.B

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Last night, an Autogeek friend of mine brought something to my attention, that Griot's Garage have just appeared in Autobarn stores. Who? Well, in the US Griots has long been a respected detailing brand, sitting above the likes of Meguiar's and Turtle Wax as a premium alternative. A family-owned brand that makes all of its liquids in the USA, the focus of Griots has been on the enthusiast market rather than outright professional users.

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn...4bd7f2o2BUSN-H6_bQdBvQrvrkuKcIa_CRqtP5T0S8waA

I've always wondered why Griot's had been left on the shelf for Australia, especially when so much of what we buy detailing wise is made in the USA from USA companies. Meguiar's, Turtle Wax and Mothers have been a mainstay of the big box stores for decades, but we also have access to the likes of Adam's, Chemical Guys, Armour Detail Supply, Ethos, Shine Supply, 3D, Optimum / Opti-Coat, DIY Detail, McKee's, Feynlab, P&S, Stoner Car Care and The Rag Company. Most of those brands have flourished in Australia, so I'm not sure why Griot's didn't get picked up sooner. A crowded market? Maybe, maybe not.

Not only does Griot's sell detailing chemicals, they have a massive range of tools, accessories, and garage related items too. It would appear Autobarn have kept it simple, so at the moment at least, they are only offering chemicals. They have also gone with a basic selection of products from what is an extensive full line, I'd say to suit the target buyers.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/

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I've had my eye on Griot's for many years, mainly because of the feedback I have gotten from my American friends, so I'm very keen to see how this selection of products perform in Australia. For the most part, American detailing chemicals work very well in our climate, which is different to the UK brands that almost always **** in Australia. So, I'm fairly confident these products will impress.

Prior to the Autobarn launch, I've had limited exposure to the Griot's brand. The Interior Cleaner (large bottle) was imported from Obsessed Garage, which I like for its lack of colour and scent, perfect for new cars. The leather interior scent I also got with that OG order, but it *****. The gallon bottle nozzles are brilliant though, so here's hoping they end up making the trip at some point. It's a shame they didn't bother with the Boss polishing products, they are supremely good, of which Fast Correcting Creme I've used and really liked.

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My purchase today included a spectrum of products that will suit my detailing style and needs. I have no use for 3-in-1 leather products, or wash-n-wax style soaps. The interior detailer looks promising, I decided to give the soap a try, the two Speed Shine detailers, and the ceramic glass cleaner and tire dressing are both up my alley. The 3-in-1 Wheel Tire & Mat Cleaner is an odd one, so this is probably the product I'm most keen to sample.

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My only other comment is the price. It's a little harder to compare the retail prices without working out a per ml cost, mainly because the American brands usually go with 473ml, 946ml and 3.78-lt bottles. Griots have gone with a bespoke bottle in 650ml size, and the soaps are 1.4 and 1.9-litre. On surface level, some of them are VERY expensive, but as per most of these American brands sold in Australia, there is a lot of fat built into the RRP's to account for frequent discounting. For that reason, I didn't see value in some of the other products, otherwise I'd have bought a few more to try.

So, I'm really looking forward to seeing how these Griot's products perform.
 
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D.F.B

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I'm not entirely sure if I have done the right thing here, and I don't want to jinx things, but say hello to baby Olly..................

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In my toddler days, I grew up with a tri-colour Cocker, who Mum and Dad had before I was born. We were inseparable, he was like my big brother. When Faych came along, the roles were reversed, I was big brother. I've had a few people suggest getting a Golden Retriever or Labrador, but my heart is with Cocker's, they just suit my nature. It was never really a choice here.

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Having said all of that, I feel somewhat guilty, as if I'm replacing my Faychie all too soon. It breaks my heart over and over again every time I think of him as I go about things we would do together, like I'm leaving him behind. I know this is not a rational thing, but I just can't help it. But if he is watching over me, I know he wouldn't want me to be sad, or that no other dog would experience the same love and treatment he got from me.

Over the past week, I've had so many people reach out, something I will never forget. Everyone goes through a loss differently, and those who provided advice gave me something to think about. One in particular explained how he mourned a loss for several years before finding a new companion, which to me sounds like hell. As it stands, I'm so lost without my shadow. While Faych can never be replaced, I know I need that presence in my life, someone to love, someone to follow me around, someone to make me smile, someone to comfort me, someone to care for.

Right here, right now, I'm not ready. But then I don't want to wait indefinitely for the "right" time to come up, progressively getting more and more lost and depressed. I'm a week in and feeling more settled, more accepting of what happened. There is peace in knowing Faych will never leave my heart and mind. By the end of January when Olly will be able to come home, I know I'll be in a different frame of mind. As I type, I have a mixture of nerves and excitement, but still a sense of sadness and guilt.

Olly was born in late November to Mumma Lola and Pappa Ernie. He will develop into a blue roan or white-black bi-colour. I've seen both parents in action, and the way each pup is being treated and prepared for their forever homes.

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As mentioned earlier, I had so many people reach out, provide advice, tell their stories. Please know each and every word helped. I always knew I'd be crushed the day Faych left me, but I never knew how hard it was going to be or how I'd deal with it. So a big thankyou to all that helped me over the last week, the spectrum of stories and advice got me through and got me thinking about the future.
 

hewey

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Hey mate, so sorry to hear about the loss of Faych. I was devastated when we lost our foxie Tia a couple of years back, and honestly I was in a funk of a headspace for a good few months after she left us. The house felt so empty and quiet afterwards too. It was about a year later we got our new dogs, and it's great having the house back to 'normal'. We haven't necessarily done a lot to commemorate our previous dogs, but one thing we did do was make a bunch of notes about their little quirks and anecdotes, which is something thats nice to have on hand and revisit from time to time. And honestly, it took a while for our new dogs to get to a similar point of love.
 
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D.F.B

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This is why Cocker Spaniels have such a hold on me....................

My father had a Cocker when he was a kid, and one of his cycling mentors had them too. Before I was born, Mum and Dad had a Cocker called Hafey. He was a beautiful tri-colour boy who was ball and water crazy!

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I've always loved that crazy eye when Cockers are playful.................

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This was mid 1980's, back when you were still allowed to dock their tails, something I would never do.

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In the water and with a ball in his mouth...............

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Again, ball crazed and freshly showered under the sprinkler. And yes, that's a classic Hills Hoist clothesline, 1980's living at its best.

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When I came along, Hafey became my big brother. These next shots would have been taken in 1987 and 1988 with my Mum's Pentax.

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Just look at his focus on that ball in my hand.................

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Just look at him watching over me, my big brother keeping me safe.

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These were taken a little later. The first one I had some chocolate in my hands and he wanted some too. Like all Cockers, they are VERY food motivated, which can lead to some sticky situations.

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The next one was one of those chance photos that is so rare to capture. From what I've been told, Mum spotted us down the back in this raised planter, side by side, boys being boys. She managed to grab the camera and snap this shot just in time. Hafey was starting to get on in years by this stage.

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Hafey left us in 1992 or thereabouts. I remember the day because my sister and I had been left at Nan & Pa's, evidently, they had taken Hafey to the vet. On their return to pick us up, I remember mum being distraught and in tears because Hafey wasn't coming home. I do vaguely remember him being off-colour, drinking a lot of water, symptoms I ended up suffering not long after. Turns out Hafey had developed diabetes, just like I ended up getting too.

Hafey's memory lived on though. For my second Cocker, who came to me in my mid 20's, I couldn't decide on the perfect name. After it was noted that my new buddy had the same temperament as Hafey, it was a lightbulb moment. As a toddler I couldn't pronounce Hafey, but I could slur together Faychie. The name Faych (Faychie) couldn't have been more perfect, and much like the spelling of my name, it became a talking point from that moment forward.

I had a few people telling me that I should get another dog breed for my next companion, a Labrador or Golden Retriever. In my past, I had always wanted a Lab, purely for their loyalty and intelligence, but also for their independence when needed. But then, I couldn't have asked for a more loyal friend and sibling in the two Cocker's I've had in my life. It just feels right.
 
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D.F.B

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TESTING GRIOT'S GARAGE -

Griot's Garage has long been a respected detailing brand in the USA. A family-owned business, they pride themselves on providing exceptional customer service and US-made detailing chemicals. Ever since joining the Autogeek forum a few years ago, I've heard nothing but positive comment regarding this brand. On countless occasions, I had people telling me I should try Griot's Garage, but my response was always the same, not sold here. Sort of............

Going back a few years, Auto Mega Store (an online auto retailer) began stocking three or four products, none of them what I'd consider a true representation of the Griot's brand. Then Obsessed Garage, who offers international shipping, took on a small selection of products. Shipping prices were astronomical and only worthwhile if buying other items too. This was actually my introduction to the brand, of which I really liked the Interior Cleaner, the gallon spouts and Fast Correcting Creme.

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There was also a few ways of getting the brand through back door avenues, but it was just not worth the hassle. Then Amazon began offering Griot's, but again, a little costly. Enter Autobarn......................

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn...7K4lx1Chjm8x8vMWHZ8fq83fXydJq_Moant2ro&page=1

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Pricing is still little rich on certain products, but pretty much in line with other American specialty brands sold in this country. No doubt the prices are inflated to provide room for the constant revolving door of catalog specials. It is what it is.

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Today I put each of the above products to work on the Ranger, with the exception of the interior cleaner and scent, of which I've already have tested.

In order of use...................

Wheel-Tire-Matt Cleaner -

On the Ranger, I only used this to clean the tyres, which proved to be exceptionally good! With tyre cleaners, I really like it when they lather up nicely as it gives you a visual indicator of what you are doing, which is why I love Brake Buster. So, it lathers exceptionally well, and appeared to do the job VERY well, check out later in the post for that.

(Note I have an empty bottle here, which I discovered was leaking from a crack in the plastic. I put the product into another bottle but kept original bottle for photography.)

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Like Brake Buster, I reckon this stuff would foam like a MF! It has a semi gel-like formula to keep it from running off vertical surfaces, and being multi-purpose product, this would likely mean an alkaline leaning formula. And at $29.95, it's decent value.

DFB Verdict - A winner! Easily the pick of tyre cleaners available in a store like this, and one of the best I've tried full stop.

Brilliant Finish Car Wash soap -

This is a soap that apparently "preserves your wax", which indicate a pH balanced formula. They also suggest the "special brighteners yield a lasting, high-gloss and streak-free appearance", which would be a cause for concern with ceramic coated vehicles.

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As you can see, this soap foams well at an 8:1 dilution, not the best I've seen, but it can certainly put on a show. Slickness is good, again not the best, but plenty slick. I also like the free rinsing properties, and those gloss enhancers didn't mess with the paint or wheel coatings on this vehicle. The scent is very subdued, almost not there. Price wise, at full RRP its on par with something like Meg's Gold Class, but I'd favor the Griot's.

DFB Verdict - A very nice soap, just lacks a little theater.

Ceramic Speed Shine -

Ceramic Speed shine is a step above the regular Speed Shine in that it contains siloxane and Si02 to provide superior gloss, slickness and water repellency. They suggest it can be used as a clay lubricant, but I probably wouldn't do that.

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I used this product as a drying aid. On initial acquaintance, this stuff reminds me of Gyeon Ceramic Detailer in both scent and application feel. In that I mean some slight initial grabbiness, something I really didn't like with the Gyeon product. But as it flashes, the surface transforms into a glossy, slick look and feel. This product has that mild vinegar type aroma common to a lot of these ceramic detailers, although they have laced it with a mild scent. Price wise, this is one of the more expensive items at full RRP. Personally, I'd favour Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer instead.

DFB Verdict - Not bad, but not a must-have.

Speed Shine -

This is the original Speed Shine, basically a traditional quick detailer. These products are often overlooked these days, but they still have a place in my opinion. With a high level of lubrication, Speed Shine also has some mild cleaning properties, making it ideal for spot cleaning of bird bombs or bugs. Like any detail spray, Speed Shine is safe for all surfaces and can also be used as a drying aid or interior detailer.

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I used Speed Shine as a drying aid for the door jambs and tray sides. I really love the sweet scent, which is much less "nosey" than the ceramic version. It feels slick under the towel, which again makes it nicer to work with than the ceramic type. It flashes away nicely and leaves a slick, glossy surface. Pricing on Speed Shine seems about right to me, and overall, I think I like this one better than the ceramic version.

DFB Verdict - I've always like quick detailers, and Speed Shine is no different. Will it knock your socks off? No, but it does absolutely nothing wrong, which makes it a winner for me.

Ceramic Glass Cleaner -

I've been buying a lot of this type of glass cleaner lately, so I thought I'd give this a try as well. These products are basically a mild spray sealant with a high evaporation rate to help limit streaks. Ceramic Glass Cleaner is intended as a maintenance product to Griot's glass coating (not sold here), but it can be used as a standalone to create exceptional hydrophobic properties.............fancy RainX in other words. Bizarrely, they suggest you team it with a clay bar for decontaminating the glass.

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Having tried a few of these glass cleaners now, I've noticed some work brilliant, some are horrible. The best I've found is the Opti-Coat Clean & Protect, the worst being Carpro ClarifyPhobic. I'd say the Griot's sits in the middle, it required just a little more attention than the Opti-Coat, but nowhere near as temperamental as the Carpro. The scent is a non-event, but 650ml bottle is very well priced.

DFB Verdict - Good, not great. I much prefer the Stoner and Optimum versions.

Interior Detailer -

These interior products have become extremely popular of the last 5-years as they provide just the right amount of cleaning and UV protection, but without making your interior look like an oil slick. The Griot's version is suitable for all interior surfaces including leather, plastic, vinyl, glass and infotainment screens.

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With a mild citrus scent, the Interior Detail performs on par with the likes of competitor products from Carpro, Gyeon, Meguires and Koch Chemie. In that I mean how it wipes on and flashes away to a clean OEM finish. If you prefer a more enhanced look, I'd suggest looking at P&S Swift or Ethos Interior Detailer instead. Important to note this is a very different product to their Interior Cleaner, which offers significantly more cleaning power, but for maintaining an already clean car, this stuff will do it all day long.

DFB Verdict - A worthy contender, although the bar set by ADS Pilot probably skews my rating here.

Ceramic Tire Dressing -

"Ceramic" tire dressings have become more and more prevalent over the last couple of years as they promise a darker look and superior longevity. Griot's make a lot of the ultra-durable nature of this product, likewise the lack of sling and a satin appearance. And praise the lord, Griot's resisted the urge to call this product tire SHINE.

At this point, notice how clean the tyre is after its treatment earlier. Very impressive cleaning power.

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I've met very few tyre dressings I didn't like, and this Griot's product is no different. It spreads easily, with a large brush in my case, smells lovely and leaves that ultra-dark look. On these tyres, there is some mild initial shine, but it levels off with a follow up wipe.

DFB Verdict - A winner.

Final Thoughts -

The Griot's lineup in the USA is absolutely massive! As well as detailing chemicals, towels, tools, and accessories, they also offer garage related tools and accessories. At the moment the lineup available in stores is relatively small. That would be a result of Autobarn selecting a very weekend warrior friendly product mix, which explains the focus on wax-based products, but overall, the basics are covered.

I doubt the tools and accessories will land here either, most of which are made in China. In the end, Autobarn can (and do) supply similar items for less money by going straight to the manufacturer. Griot's are the middleman and passes on two layers of profit margin, then more fat is added once they land in Australian retailers. That's why a basic $10 brush ends up being $40 in Australia, or a foam cannon going from $99 to $200.

I need more time with these products, but so far they have proven to be solid performers. If you buy your detailing supplies at the big box stores and are getting bored with Bowden's or the other usual suspects, I'd suggest giving the Griot's brand a look. In particular, the tyre cleaner and dressing are excellent, but I'd also check out the Interior Cleaner and Speed Shine too.

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D.F.B

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First wash post detail, which is always super satisfying in how easily everything comes together.

Don't let the Brake Buster bottle fool you, that's Griot's Wheel-Tire-Mat Cleaner. This product has a mild scent to mask that acrid chemical aroma of most rubber cleaners such as Brake Buster, Wise Guy and ReTyre. As per yesterday, it seemed to work extremely well, which is surprising because these tyres are resistant to everything but Tarminator.

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Mixing things up today, I decided to roll out the K1152 (K1122) to give it a run. The K1152 and KHD-10 have the same advertised flow rates, 10-litres per minute (2.64 GPM), but the K1152 certainly feels leaner. I ran this with the same gun and 4.5 orifice nozzles I use with the wall mount system, so perhaps it's the result of the 10-amp (1152) vs 15-amp (KHD-10) situation? Having said that, the K1152 is soooo much quieter than the KHD-10, to the point where the water or foam flow is noisier than the machine itself. And the 1/4-inch hose is much easier to manage than the 3/8-inch Cobra Jet. But then the wall mount comes back into its own when setting up and packing away.

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Who needs a ceramic coating when you get this from a humble synthetic sealant?

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Cleaned, the old girl has swapped place with the Mustang for a little rest.
 

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Cars are looking great!

Where I live we get lots of bug strikes and sometimes frequent rain in the summer with highs sometimes reaching over 100*F, and nasty salt/dirt/snow residue with lows below 0*F in the winters. What I need for my daily drivers is the ability for the protective coating to not only keep the car looking cleaner for longer, but to also clean up easily.

I would really just prefer that my vehicles never get dirty, but that isn't a reality so I need to look at products other then wax to fend off the dirt.
 
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A little re-stock from Detailing Shed before the Christmas closures. The notable inclusion here being that spray bottle, the new Pressol Pro-Series.

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I've been using v1 Pressol sprayers for a while now. From an aesthetic point of view, I love how I can fill them with a multitude of different products from different brands and have a matching label on each. Of course, that was the vision of someone else, and I can't deny or hide where that influence came from.

Functionally though, I have always felt the Kwazar Mercury 360 were vastly superior. For example, a thicker bottle that will not panel in under repeated spraying, as well the extra stabilizing piece on the base. The spray head itself has a smoother action, the trigger being longer to allow all of your fingers to wrap around it. Both are double action, spraying on both squeeze and release, but the atomization of the Kwazar was vastly superior and with a much wider range of adjustment.

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These original Pressol "Household" spray bottles were never intended for use with detailing chemicals. No, the black or red "Industrial" bottles with the ergonomic bottle design were better suited to this role, but because of that odd bottle shape, labels were not possible. So, that's why Matt went with the "Household" type and persisted with fixing the issues. And there were plenty of issues....................

- Because of the lack of spray pattern adjustment, the tips had to be cranked right down to achieve fine atomization. This would often split the plastic tip. I will say, I never had one single tip split on me, so I'm not sure what others were doing with them. :conf

- Alkaline chemicals would nuke the spray head seals within a very short period. Most spray heads have a limited life span with these chemicals, but not to the extent of these Pressol items. And it would happen with both the standard "Household" and tougher "Industrial" heads. I will say, I've killed Kwazar spray heads as well with high-pH products.

- Bottle paneling under repeated use.

- Certain chemicals leaching through the bottle, mainly from solvents such as tar remover. This became an issue because the microscopic leaching would dissolve the adhesive of those fancy labels and cause them to fall off.

- Ultra-slick products would cause the suction tube to fall off the spray head. Again, I never experienced this.

The big sticking point with Pressol has been the price, $25 vs the $17 for the Kwazar. And that's before you consider a basic Tolco sprayer and bottle for $5 had none of the above issues and would last longer with alkaline chemicals. So why pay the premium and get a worse durability?

Enter the Pressol Pro-Series. The culmination of 6-years work, which I think was far too long for what is just a plastic spray head and bottle, these new Pro-Series items feature a number of changes. The spray head internals have been upgraded to better resist alkalinity, effectively replacing both Household and Industrial spray heads from v1. The spray tip is now stainless steel, not plastic. The pickup tube is now silicone, which facilitates 360-degree spraying like the Kwazar's. The tube is now held in place with wire spring clips. And finally, the bottles are treated to prevent chemical leeching, a process called fluorination. All sounds great...................

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I'm not going to sit here and tell you these new versions solve all of the problems with v1. Actually, they created some new ones. For example, alkaline products can react with the fluorination process and cause the bottle to turn brown. The first batch of spray tips were accidentally made with steel and not stainless steel, so they rusted out. Certain products have caused the tube to fall off, and that's despite those fancy clips. And certain IPA-type products can nuke the seals too. I've sat back watching this happen, baffled as to why all this didn't get noticed during the "extensive torture testing". They had 6 years to get it right, but the problems are still there. And as a final insult, they are now even more expensive.

And yet, here I am buying another Pressol to try, go figure. :doh

On first acquaintance, those stainless steel tips look and feel amazing. They also atomize way, way better than v1................and the Kwazar too if I'm honest.

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Spring clips on both ends of the silicone pickup tube...................

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As you can see, the tube is ultra flexible and permits 360-degree spraying. Of course, no one is spraying with the bottle upside down, but this feature becomes handy as the bottle empties and while spraying at an awkward angle.

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The following is a comparison between the three Pressol spray heads. In the middle, the new Pro Series. On the right, the Household version with a ridged plastic tube and basic filter cap. On the left, the Industrial head with a semi-flexible pickup and weighted plastic filter. Of the older two, the Industrial was superior as the pickup point could move as the bottle was tilted, handy when the nearing empty, however it couldn't allow 360-degree movement.

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The improvements to spray pattern and the flexible pickup tube are instantly noticeable and appreciated, both aspects certainly better than before. What remains to be seen is how they perform over the longer term, namely the seals and that strange bottle staining.

You may question why spend so much on a spray bottle, especially one that isn't totally sorted. Well, I question that too. But then I see them lined up in my cabinet with the fancy labels and I'm sold. I get the same satisfaction with the Kwazar's too, but the Pressol's are next level. Naturally, how they look has nothing to do with functional performance, but visual pleasure is important to me and something I always look for in just about everything in life. I also love that clicky-click sound the Pressol trigger makes, super satisfying. So, while flawed, there is much to like as well.
 
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D.F.B

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Australian bones, Japanese heart.....................

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I've known of these Suzuki 2-Strokes for a long time, but until today, I'd never actually seen one in the metal. After a comment made on Facebook a few months ago, I had someone urge me to take a look at them. In particular, I was told these Suzuki's were better than the Victa Powertorque 2-Stroke it competed with. Now, I'm a massive fan of that Victa engine, problematic and temperamental, but when running right they are unstoppable when the going gets tough. So, the challenge was set, I just had to find a suitable mower with the Suzuki engine on it.

As always, there is a story behind each mower find. I swooped on this Rover 2-Stroke XL minutes after it had been listed for sale last night. Only two photos were included with the sale listing, but they clearly displayed an extremely tidy looking mower. Contacting the seller, he explained that they had brought it home after packing up his mother's house in Melbourne. He knew nothing about it other than it ran, verified by a quick video. No more questions were needed, so I went and grabbed it this morning for the grand sum of $85.

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Usually, these mowers will have paint missing from the side of the deck, but this one is almost perfect. The machine overall looks to have been very well cared for, there is even a service sticker still on the handle from Heidelberg mowers.

The machine itself is a 90's Rover with the 18-inch alloy chassis, model 2122 and made in Brisbane. This is the same chassis as my Quantum-powered Combat. However, it has the two-piece reinforced chrome handlebars with the upturned grip, the Combat has a basic single piece handle in powder coated black. I love how light these mowers are, they require no effort to push, instead you simply guide them along.

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After a quick once over, I noticed one of the front wheels was pointing toe in, so a few love taps with a sledge put that right. After a little splash of fuel, I put the mower to work straight away. With the engine cold and the choke engaged, this thing will fire from single pull of the cord. The first thing to note is how it can idle down to a low tick over without the stumbles a Victa will suffer. With the throttle wide open, it takes off with impressive response and produces a turbine-like whine, kinda like the Victa 500 Twin (which I'm still hunting for). It also doesn't really smoke that much, although that could be the splash of HP Ultra that went in the tank.

I will naturally go over the machine, but it won't need much. Apart from the precision wheel alignment I gave it first up, the blades are in desperate need of replacement, which I have in stock from the NOS parts haul. The air filter is not too bad, but I've already ordered a replacement. I have a spark plug ready to go, they use the same as the Victa's and early Brigg's engines, a Champion CJ8 or RCJ8Y, or NGK BPMR6A or BM6A.

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So, this is mower number 13 in the current collection, and number 24 in total I've had my hands on.
 
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D.F.B

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I will admit, I know very little about these Suzuki engines other than some people swear by them, others swear at them. No different to the Victa then. So, putting together this post is me learning on the fly...........................

The Suzuki M120X was used on a variety of mowers from the 1980's up until the 2000's. Finding a cc count has proven difficult, but I'm fairly sure the "120" part in the model code references 121.5cc. In Australia, you would mostly see these engines fitted to Rover's, but overseas they were also used on hover mowers and the commercial grade Toro's in the USA. Power wise, I've seen reference to 3.8 hp, which is pretty good for such a small capacity.

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There are several area's where these Suzuki engines are superior to the Victa Powertorque -

- The Victa has a one-piece block and crankcase, a separate cylinder head and a half crankshaft. The Suzuki is a clamshell design made up of an integral cylinder and head, the second half of the engine is crankcase, both halves supporting the full-length crankshaft.

- The benefit of the Suzuki clamshell design is a smoother running engine. The Victa however is easier and more viable to service should something need major attention. The Victa cast iron block is very forgiving, you can actually remove the piston and rod without taking the engine off the mower, give it a hone and reassemble with minimal labour.

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- The Suzuki uses a conventual float-fed carburettor from Mikuni. I have heard these can be very sensitive to debris, fuel filter quality and choke engagement, causing frustration in the process. Having said that, it's not like the G3 carburettor on the Powertorque is a paragon of reliability either.

- The Suzuki has a proper mechanical governor. The Victa uses crankcase pulses connected to the carburettor to limit engine rpm.

- As a result of that conventional carburettor design and governor, the Suzuki actually has throttle response and can provide a smooth, stable idle speed. Victa's just can't do that, primarily because the fuel system and governor are all in a feedback loop that takes time for throttle inputs to reach the engine. I hope that makes sense, it does to me now that I know how that Victa G3 works.

- Suzuki suggest 50:1 fuel mix for the M120X. Victa on the other hand, its not that simple. The fuel caps and engine stickers all had 25:1 on them, but the Victa branded oil has 50:1 on the bottle. So, which one is it Victa? I've stuck with 25:1, which means a separate fuel supply for the Victa's.

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I love the muffler design, the stubbly little exhaust pipe is so cute. Victa’s direct the exhaust through the deck to be dispersed by the blades.

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From here, new blades and a spark plug will be the first service points. I like to do axle bushes regardless, but I've had to order those along with a new air filter. The fuel cap is leaking through the vent, as luck would have it, I have them from NOS (last pic above). I'll then give it a detail and polish the rust off the chrome handles.
 
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D.F.B

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Geez, you don't realize how much work a self-propelled machine is doing for you until something fails and you have to take over forward progress. I had to push Big Ben Rover for 80% of its only job this morning, ****** thing is a bear to push through thick Kikuyu! I'm just thankful it failed on this one and not next week as I cut lawns for Christmas.

The culprit being a broken clutch cable, failing at the gearbox end.

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Back when I had all that trouble with the dealer on my first ProCut, I stocked up on common parts. So, I had a replacement clutch cable in stock, two actually as one came in the massive NOS parts haul earlier in the year. Replacement couldn't have been easier, simply unbolt the adjuster block, cut a cable tie, remove the old cable, install the new one.

With that photo above, you can see why this gearbox / drive arrangement is so genius, it eliminates the need to have the gearbox taking up space in the discharge chute. That space above the deck is otherwise wasted on other mowers, so putting the box there keeps it away from debris, and opens up the chute for full flow. On my first ProCut, I never had to mess with the gearbox, chain or clutch, and I beat the snot out of that thing for a decade.

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There is only one problem..................I don't know where the old cable z-bend has gone after it came off the end of the cable. I blew out the clutch case but didn't sight it. I assume its fallen down to the base of the chain case cover, which looking at the parts diagram, I don't see it being a problem. The plastic cover the hides the chain and sprocket on the axle from grass and dirt, which for some reason the previous owner has sealed up with silicone. You also have to remove the wheel and riveted backing plate to get access to the chain cover screws. A test drive didn't sound out of the ordinary, so I think it'll be fine.
 
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D.F.B

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After the ProCut distraction, I moved my attention over to the Suzuki.

The blades on this thing were root.d! I knew this yesterday when I gave it a shake down run, needless to say they didn't cut very well. Not safe either. I would think the previous owner was on sand, and I found a collection of gum nuts wedged between the fuel tank and recoil, both are naturally very abrasive.

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This set of "Lawn Mower" brand blades I got from the NOS parts haul, the price on the back of the package read $41.95. While the 20-inch box has been ticked on the label, these fit the 18-inch mowers as well. There appears to be two different blade types available for these 18- and 20-inch Rover's.

A03830 / A03930 - These are considered "heavy duty". They feature a more pronounced flute and an extended cutting edge, said to be better for mulching. These are what I used today.

A01118K / A00672K - These don't have that high flute of the above and have a narrower width.

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New spark plug. The old plug an NGK BM6A, and that's what I put back in it. A CJ8 or RCJ8Y would have worked too.

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I'm still waiting on an air filter, so I just blew out the original and cleaned the airbox. I'm also waiting for an axle kit.

A quick test run followed. The engine will idle down to about 1800 rpm, wide open it sits at 3250 rpm. You can adjust that to 3600 rpm by moving the spring location on the governor lever arm, but I'm going to leave this one alone.

It was then time for a clean. Following a rinse, I went around with Shine Supply Wise Guy and a brush to scrub the wheels, deck and catcher. Another rinse, it then got a dose of Hydr02 and then some Hyper Dressing. Finally, the chrome handlebars and the muffler cover were given a scrub with steel wool to remove the surface rust.

Before -

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After -

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At the moment I'm trying to figure out what's up with the fuel cap. These are known to leak from the vent, which mine is doing, and replacements are NLA. I do have a bag of NOS vent inserts, but I can't figure out how they fit inside the cap, something must be missing as they just don't fit.

The vent on it has been turned into an oval shape and is only just held in place by wedging it against the threads.

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This one is NOS, it's round and simply will not stay captive to the cap.

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Apart from that, this mower tidied up very nicely and is a sweet runner.
 
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The Ranger has been earning its keep over the last week. The first job was spread across two days, a garden clean-up for a neighbour. This included two full loads of green waste going to the tip, most of it from several Cocas Palm's (hideous things, never plant them!). The second job being my own garden, which I'm trying to green up before a certain someone arrives late January. Again, two large loads of green waste after giving two established camellia's a heavy reformative prune, and removal of more ****** Privet.

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The rubber mat I have in the tray is great for keeping rattles down, but the open chambers allow every leaf, twig and blade of grass to get stuck in each perforation. A very tedious task to remove it all, be that using the leaf blower or pressure washer, often it's easier to just vacuum it..............which gives the nosey neighbours something to laugh at.

After washing with NV Snow, I continued to sample the Griot's products I bought a few weeks ago. Drying Aid was Speed Shine, tray and door jambs with Ceramic Speed Shine, and the inside got a wipe down with Interior Detailer. The tyres had been cleaned 3-in-1 Wheel-Tire-Mat, then a layer of Ceramic Tire Dressing.

On that 3-in-1 Wheel-Tire-Mat Cleaner, I wanted to see how it performed on the Ranger's 3D rubber floor liners.

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I love this product! The way it lathers up is so satisfying, which gives the feeling you're actually achieving something, missing from some rubber cleaners. After cleaning, I soaked it down with P&S Swift, which is the sweet spot for dressing floor mats, vastly better than the Koch Chemie Guf.

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You can still see what appears to be a dirty patch on the left, but that's where my heel pivots for the clutch pedal, which has worn down and discoloured the material.

Ranger is clean again, but not for long, early next week is the all-important "Christmas Mow".
 
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D.F.B

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A couple of follow ups on the Suzuki today.

I had someone suggest removing the muffler to inspect the exhaust port for excessive carbon. Pretty much all 2-strokes will suffer from carbon blocked exhaust ports, mufflers and spark arrestors, although not all in the same way. For the most part, the main symptom will be a lack of power. But it can (will) progress from there and may exhibit less obvious problems.

For example, take a modern Stihl trimmer or blower with the 27.2cc engine. These are notorious for blocked spark arrestors, and if not attended to, completely blocking the small exhaust port. While the engine will start and idle smoothly like that, under throttle they will severely bog down, you know the sound, burrrr burrr burrr. The blockage of the exhaust screen is usually caused by poor quality or too much oil, and from not running the engine fast enough to fully burn off that carbon. That last point can be hard with trimmers, especially when trimming around obstacles and sensitive plants. Blockage at the exhaust port is always caused by not cleaning the spark arrestor soon enough.

On the Suzuki M120X, excessive carbon in the exhaust will cause some odd running conditions on top of the obvious lack of power or changed engine note. Firstly, excessive carbon can back up into the cylinder where it's said to raise the compression and cause detonation, evidenced by what sounds like a rod-knock. Secondly, carbon deposits on the M120X can cause hard starting, but not from what you'd expect. And this is what I learned today!

First, we have to remove the muffler, which is held in place with a long through-bolt and two studs threaded into the cylinder. With the bolt and stud nuts removed, the muffler will slide off the engine with the heat shield attached.

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On first look, things didn't look too bad. The muffler inlet and outlet look completely fine, no build up at all. The port was obviously coated with carbon/oil residue, but in no way was it blocking the exhaust flow. This also gave me the chance to have a look at the piston and cylinder, both are beautiful and the rings free. You can see some lines in the images, but that is fuel/oil mix and not scoring. Very nice to see.

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That exhaust gasket is NLA, nor are they available on eBay for sale to AU.

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At this point I gave the port a wipe out and reinstalled the muffler. Good. Done........................except I missed something........................

Turns out these engines have a hidden decompression vent in the exhaust port. If that vent passage is blocked, it will cause hard starting. Because all 2-strokes produce this gummy carbon regardless of fuel/oil quality, its only a matter of time before this tiny 1/8-inch port blocks up. I guess the question is how soon, a superior oil will slow it down, a crappy mineral oil mixed too rich will speed that up.

And so off came the muffler again. At this point, I want to highlight how easy this engine is work on, everything fits precisely, tight tolerances, no wiggle room, none of the kinda-sorta-fits **** common to the big B&S. I've noticed the same with Honda's too.

And yes, I had not noticed the decompressor port. Now, I hadn't really noticed hard starting, so perhaps it was only partially blocked. Either way, its now clean and clear, easily seen now too. I flushed it with carb spray and cranked the engine over slowly, which purged the carb spray back out of the decompressor port, exactly how it was designed to. Nice.

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After that, the replacement air filter showed up this morning. This is an oiled foam filter that is still available via the aftermarket. After a dose of filter oil, it was installed. The air filter box on these is known to snap the retaining tabs, but this one is still tight and secure.

https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/...XlRupB8MCalTgH1tkdZLZuD8ZmODoluDGFb7zQTJZilKo

Note the Toro reference.

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The last thing on the to-do list is the front axle bushes, then it will be time to earn some money.
 
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D.F.B

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Another 40+ degree C day, another Ranger. Annoyingly, it's just rained, undoing my work and meaning tomorrow will humid. I hate summer!

Nothing special on this one, it just HAD to be done. But it did give me a proper chance to see how these new Pressol Pro Series sprayers perform.

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I've used the original "household" versions for a while now, with and without the chemical resistant "Industrial" spray heads. Those heavy-duty heads had to be purchased separately, which increased the price by $15 on top of the bottle/sprayer price. And even then, the Industrial heads still failed with alkaline chemicals. I actually stopped bothering with them and just used the household sprayer. The trick is to purge the chemical back into the bottle and flushing the sprayer with clean water after each detailing session. I've been doing that with both head types and have had about 15-months out of them so far. The reality is, you shouldn't have to do that on a premium purchase like this when a basic $7 Tolco will outlast it 3 - 4 times over.

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The Pro Series spray head has upgraded internals, so there is no longer a need for the "Industrial" version. At $32+ per bottle, I'm not going to subject these to high-impact chemicals, especially when replacement heads are not available. With ADS Amplify being a high-use product, I decided to put it into the Pro Series.

The first thing to note is how nicely the new stainless-steel tip atomises product. Having said that, I actually prefer a slightly heavier dispersion to limit chemical drift and overspray. Perhaps this is why I never cracked a single one of those old plastic tips, I just wasn't cranking them down as hard. The trigger action feels smoother too, although that could be a new vs well used situation.

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At the end of the day, you are only buying these Pressol bottles and sprayers if you are insane like me. That's because on pretty much every metric, a $7 Tolco or Canyon sprayer with a generic bottle is going to do the same job, just without the double action trigger and weighted pickup tube for 360-degree spraying capability. The question is, are those two benefits worth an extra $26? And if those last two aspects are important, then Kwazar Mercury is $14 cheaper and as good if not better than the Pressol.
 
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D.F.B

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Final job on the RoZuki this afternoon, new axle bushes.

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Being a "domestic" mower, the axles are not bolted to the chassis like they are on the professional models, instead they use wire clips. Removal is relatively easy, push up on the clip from outside of the deck with a flat screwdriver until they pop inside the hole, then lever against the inside of the deck until they release. Reinstallation isn't so easy though. With the rear side looped into place, you'll need a set of pliers to get the other side seated before snapping into place.

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This is an old vs new comparison of the axle bushings. These have either been replaced in the past, or like the rest of the machine, are the originals in exceptionally good condition. You can even still see some of the shiny black plastic finish on them. To be honest, I could have left them in there, but I'd come this far I just went ahead and replaced them.

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I said the other day that I don't buy these mowers with the idea of turning a profit. I buy them for the thrill of the chase, both in finding the mower itself, but also the spare parts to go with it................ fun and fancy. You'll notice I'm not just buying randomly. Instead, I'm finding very specific mowers, usually with engines I like or haven't experienced, which in itself has me learning about something new. Still, the money side of the equation needs to be documented to give weight to what I've achieved.

Considering the price I paid for the mower, I basically stole it. I threw some parts at it, most of which it didn't necessarily need. The exception to that being the blades, and while I've provided a price, I actually had them from NOS. With that in mind, the price all up would be closer to $125 rather than $155. I've already used the mower on a few jobs, which has that $125 covered.

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So, what new mower can you buy for $150? And what new mower will still be running 25-years later like this one is?
 
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D.F.B

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Got all of the pre-Christmas mowing jobs done yesterday, thankfully the cool change that passed through early Monday morning has stayed around. So, no mad rush for me this Christmas.

As I was unloading my tools, a last-minute order from Detailing Shed arrived, just in time for the Ranger's wash.

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The order included some new interior towels, which I selectively rotate out of service as needed. I wanted another gallon of Amplify, but they were sold out and had to make do with the small bottle. The little Pressol bottle will be used for machinery maintenance. The rest is from the Optimum range. The blue soap I've always liked and is very well priced, easily the cheapest American branded soap on the market, even cheaper than the excellent NV Snow. The green Touchless Decon Soap has only just landed in Australia, it being unique in being pH neutral rather than heavily alkaline. How that plays out remains to be seen.

The Power Wheel and Tire Cleaner is also new to Australia, which is basically an alkaline APC. It was an immediate NO I'm afraid. Firstly, the stupid foaming spray head, I hate those. Secondly, apart from the initial brush movements, it just doesn't lather up very well. Despite that, it cleaned the tyres very well. So, it did the job, just not how I prefer.

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Clean again for a few days, then back into it. No time off for me, I'm saving that for the new arrival next month.
 
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D.F.B

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The hunt continues for Razor parts, although its been a little hit and miss. For example, I had a dealer tell me that the "AeroGrip" handle was still available, great, order me one. It showed up as being a standard Victa upper handle, painted silver. ******. But for the most part, things are coming along nicely.

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The key parts I wanted to secure are the plastic wear strips for the side of the deck. These pieces were screwed into the deck but were quite thin and didn't have much meat around the mounting points. That means they were prone to catching on a kerb or garden edge and subsequently ripping off the deck. And if they didn't rip off, most are jacked up after years of grinding against fences, rocks, garden edges, curbs ect. These parts were also used on the Mustang and Bronco but were later changed to a chunkier design which was more resistant to impact.

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The colour of these trims varied depending on model. Most variants used the silver trims, including Razor, although some were black. For whatever reason, the left side trims (fig.20) are still available in silver, but the right side (fig.19) has been superseded to black. :rolleyes: That right side also flows into the height adjuster block (fig.21)..............in silver. :rolleyes: So, I guess I'll be painting that part silver, although I'm not sure how to go about that on plastic.

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On another note, I stumbled across a brand-new Quantum snorkel air filter cover for the grand sum of $8.50. I actually went back to order more, but obviously their stock inventory was incorrect because the refunded the purchase. This will pair with a snorkel kit I already have, which consists of a Victa filter housing and snorkel hose. I've since tracked down a few more of those housings, as well as the adaptors and hoses.

This part would have sat on a shelf for a very long time, note that it was made in the USA............which would read China if made today.

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The part number was listed as a Rover item, A03811. However, I'm pretty sure these were universal to Quantum and Intek engines. Take note of part 21 in the diagram above, which was an adaptor to suit a bigger hose. I've found some of those too.

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These are supplied without the primer decal, which is pretty stingy. Having said that, they later deleted the primer system for an automatic choke, so I guess this saved confusion..................and $$$. So, I went and found some of those decals too.



As it stands, I have most of what I need, well the stuff that normally gets banged up. Again, I just have to find one! :rolleyes:
 
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D.F.B

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Volvo XC60 B6 – Full Reset Detail

It’s been a while since I’ve had this car in the garage, which also means a while since its been washed……………………. I’m the only one allowed to touch this vehicle. Brand new in 2023, my sister had it coated with Carpro Cquartz Professional shortly after delivery. Not a lot gets said about Carpro coatings in the enthusiast/pro-sumer scene, but Cquartz Professional is the best coating I’ve come across for the way it responds to chemicals, which means it’s easier to clean and ultra durable. I'm always amazed at how much grime is removed by a simple pressure wash, not to mention the next level hydrophobics. I guess pro-grade coatings aren’t just a marketing concept.

Since it was coated, I’ve been maintaining the car with a two-stage wash (pre-soak and contact wash), then topped with EliXir or Reload depending on what I last used. For this detail, I wanted to go a bit deeper, a reset if you will. The interior was also due for some added attention. In keeping with the Carpro theme, the products used today will follow suit.

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The photos don't fully show how putridly dirty these wheels were.

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Wheels & Tyres -

Sadly, these wheels weren’t coated with the rest of the car, same with the glass. I can cope without a glass coating, I really don’t see the point there. However, I wouldn’t dread cleaning these wheels if they’d been coated. That’s because of the super dusty brake pads, the hidden lip behind the spokes and the sheer size of the things. So, I always need the nuclear bomb to deal with them.

For the pre-clean, I grabbed Carpro WheelX. I hate this product, but considering the Carpro theme I decided to peg my nose and give it another go. And…………….I still absolutely hate this stuff. I love Carpro products, but this is the worst smelling detailing product I have ever encountered, and it’s not balanced by added effectiveness above other competitors. The stench is so revolting that those inside the house could smell it, and I still have it up my nose as I type this after a shower. I used up most of the bottle, the rest is going in the bin. Do not buy.

I then foamed P&S Brake Buster over the WheelX, allowed to soak, then rinsed. From here, I scrubbed the tyres with Shine Supply Wise Guy, then foamed again with Brake Buster for the contact washing with an assortment of brushes. Another Carpro product, this time Hydr02, primarily to assist drying and gloss enhancement. These spray and rinse sealants don’t offer much protection, and the pH tolerance window is extremely narrow.

I just wish I had the time to remove, properly clean and coat these 21-inch wheels.

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Engine Bay -

The key to engine bays is regularity. Every time I have the Volvo in the garage, I always hose off the engine bay to remove dust. I’d normally follow with an APC and agitation using a brush, but it's just not needed on this car, likewise a dressing.

While I’m at it, I top off the windscreen fluid reservoir. And that’s all there is to do under there, you can’t even check the oil. The residual engine heat dried things off, but I did later go over it with some Carpro ECH20.

Exterior Decontamination & Wash –

Apart from alkaline pre-wash soaps, I haven’t had to decontaminate this coating over the last few years. Considering the length of time between washes, I’m very impressed how the coating has rejected contaminants so far. Normally, a lack of washing or neglect will kill a coating.

To start with, I decided to foam with Carpro Descale and allowed it to soak. After a rinse, I found there was still some road grime left on the lowers, so I went back in with alkalinity. Because I’d used up the remainder of Carpro Lift in the wheel bucket, and after the hideousness of WheelX, I treated the neighbourhood with the sandalwood scented Koch Chemie Active Foam. Again, this was allowed to dwell, then rinsed off. That sorted it. I was sort of experimenting with chemical sequence here, in hindsight I should have gone alkaline first, which is better at cutting through dirt, then went acidic for mineral deposits. With an almost clean surface, it was time for the contact wash using Carpro Reset, another scented treat.

To dry, it was tandem EGO blowers, the terrible LB530 and the excellent LB765. While little sister was vacuuming (which I always hate), I went around and applied another Carpro product, Reload 2.0. Then more ECH20 for the door jambs. On these Volvo’s, they accumulate road film on the rear door jambs, around the wheel arch in particular. I always pressure wash this area to remove as much as possible, but I’ve found I need tar remover like Eulex to fully remove this stuff. Every car has an area like this that needs a specific approach.

For the exterior glass, I stayed on brand and used Carpro ClarifyPhobic. I hate this stuff, but without existing product on the glass, I wanted to see how it would play. It’s still a hard NO! A glass cleaner that leaves haze and streaking behind is completely useless and ultimately defies the point. Even my sister asked if she could clean the exterior glass again, and I was like "go ahead, I was going to anyway". Even with 80% of the bottle remaining, ClarifyPhobic will be joining WheelX in the rubbish bin. You have to wonder how both of those products escaped the laboratory like that.

Interior –

With the vacuuming and floor mats cleaned while I was busy elsewhere, that left the fun bits for me. The plastics and door trims were wiped down with Carpo InnerQD. Interior glass was cleaned with Koch Chemie RRW (which was also used for the second pass on the exterior after the ClarifyPhobic disaster). As per going the extra mile on the exterior, the main project for the interior was the leather. I did briefly consider grabbing the Carpo leather products, but both cleaner and conditioner are very underwhelming. So, out came the ColourLock duo, only the best for this car.

I have both Strong and Mild versions of the leather cleaner, but unless you are trying to cut through years of neglect, the Mild is all you need. Both are foaming products, which are teamed with the specific Colourlock brush and wiped clear with an interior towel. The seats, steering wheel and console lid were all cleaned like that, I don’t bother doing the door trims. Once those areas were clean and dry, I went around and applied ColourLock Leather Shield, which is an abrasion and dye transfer blocker designed for leather under 3-years of age. Next year, I will switch to ColourLock Leather Milk Protector.

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I know that a few new leather brands have popped up in recent years, but I don’t think that has relegated the ColourLock products to also-ran statis. The only problem for some if finding them in stock. When Koch Chemie purchased ColourLock a few years ago, there were promises made about streamlining distribution……………….....well that just hasn’t happened, in the USA its actually gotten worse. I love Koch Chemie, but they are basically running the ColourLock brand into the ground. Shame.

I just love how the ColourLock products leave leather feeling clean, smooth, soft and supple, while the absence of gloss is the cherry on top. Naturally, the quality of the Volvo materials makes a huge difference too, but when you use a top-level product like this, it makes all the difference. A leather product from the likes of Autoglym or Meguiars would look completely out of place on this interior.

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Finishing Touches –

Seeing as I already had the Eulex out from earlier, I wanted to try something I heard DJ from Armour Detail Supply recommend. I normally use Tarminator or Mineral Spirits to do a reset clean on tyres, however, DJ somehow discovered Eulex can be used for the same role. And wow, what I discovery!

The key thing with any of these tar removers is the solvent nature of them. That means they quickly and easily dissolve any remaining residue still on the tyre, even after a heavy duty rubber cleaner was used earlier. So, instead of going round after round using a brush and an alkaline degreaser attempting to fully clean a tyre, 30-seconds using a solvent like this does the same thing……………except even better.

Compared to Tarminator or Mineral Spirits, you use way less product to do the same task, and you get a better finished result. Simply apply a small amount to a towel, then rub the side wall until the product evaporates. The end result is a completely bare rubber surface, you could probably leave it that way and be completely happy with the look. But………………I still went ahead with a very light layer of Capro Darkside.

Following that, the wheels was given a quick wipe with ADS Amplify, and the tyre pressures topped up.

Before -

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After Eulex -

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Dressed -

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Finished Result -

Four hours later, a refreshed XC60 was the result.................

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