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Tools of Japan

Steel_Rain

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as much as a pro at a VW dealer might

Said like a true wiseman Dave.

I recall coming across cylinder head bolts on a Toureag V6 (maybe a TDI, can’t remember) and having the ask the guy next to me to borrow a triple square after bowing my head in shame. 🤣
 
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Dave455

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Said like a true wiseman Dave.

I recall coming across cylinder head bolts on a Toureag V6 (maybe a TDI, can’t remember) and having the ask the guy next to me to borrow a triple square after bowing my head in shame. 🤣
I must admit I hate these less common fasteners. I just don’t see the point.

Trouble is, certainly with the Polo, you can do an “annual service” and think “I don’t need those XZN”, then you come to something simple, like a door mirror, and you need two different sizes!

A friends partner has a VW too, so my XZN’s see a bit more use than they might, but now she’s looking at a Fiat. I said “ Nooooo - it’ll be full of Ribe screws” but she didn’t seem to comprehend the horror..!
 

Dave455

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While searching for tape measures not made in China, I came across this Tajima and decided to give it a try. Seems like good quality and is made in Japan.
IMG_9566.jpeg
Tajima make nice tapes. Nice stuff generally in fact. I have one of their sealant guns and it’s superb.

Other options for decent tapes are Fisco and BMI.

Fisco are made in the U.K..
IMG_2600.jpeg

BMI in Germany.
IMG_2601.jpeg

Like Tajima, both offer “ Class I” tapes without loading the cost.

A Class II tape can be 2mm out over 10m, so I’m happy to pay a small premium for a better tape.
 
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pfbz

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What do you you use the 12 pointers for mostly? Also what drive 3/8 or 1/2?
You use any triple squares by koken?
I've used 12 point sockets for decades, even as my primary 1/2" set (Snap-On) and never had an issue with rounding or fastener damage. The 12 point 3/8's are new but I won't hesitate to use them on everything but perhaps the most delicate/damaged/rusted/stuck fastener. I also have the Koken surface drives for that.

I don't have Koken bit sockets, not hex, Torx, Torx plus, or XZN, but would like to get sets of them at some point.
 

Dave455

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I've used 12 point sockets for decades, even as my primary 1/2" set (Snap-On) and never had an issue with rounding or fastener damage. The 12 point 3/8's are new but I won't hesitate to use them on everything but perhaps the most delicate/damaged/rusted/stuck fastener. I also have the Koken surface drives for that.

I don't have Koken bit sockets, not hex, Torx, Torx plus, or XZN, but would like to get sets of them at some point.
The question of 6 point vs 12 point comes up fairly often. The right answer depends on what you work on.

I have found a few applications where 12 point really did not work - mostly British made Ford’s from mid 90’s to 00’s - though there have been others. Some of the fasteners seemed to be crudely swaged and really soft, and they were very difficult.

Most times either 6 or 12 point work just fine, and 12 point gives you the option of use on 12 point fasteners, should you encounter them.

Socket quality is an issue - a good quality, close fitting socket with off corner engagement, will generally work well, irrespective.

Fastener size is also an issue. A soft 10 or 13mm bolt head is easily rounded, a 32mm hub nut less so, so 12 point in the larger sizes is seldom an issue.

Having said that, I have a 3/4“ drive set with 6 point sockets, and on the few occasions I need to use it, it’s great. Although it’s overkill, I use it on things like plastic BMW oil filter housings - no way will those big 6 point sockets cause any damage.

Although - KoKen offer specific low profile sockets for oil filter housings and these are undoubtedly the better option.

IMG_2604.jpeg
 

Wrench-Polisher

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I have a 2014 ford flex and a 2009 Lincoln MKS and a 2005 Mini cooper. Between them I only I have one 12 point piece of hardware the rear camber adjustment on the mini cooper.
I am debating on getting 1/2 ko-ken stuff. But honestly I do almost all of my work with 3/8 drive stuff and sometimes when its major subrame and suspension parts I break out 1/2 impact gun.
 

Dave455

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I have a 2014 ford flex and a 2009 Lincoln MKS and a 2005 Mini cooper. Between them I only I have one 12 point piece of hardware the rear camber adjustment on the mini cooper.
I am debating on getting 1/2 ko-ken stuff. But honestly I do almost all of my work with 3/8 drive stuff and sometimes when its major subrame and suspension parts I break out 1/2 impact gun.
I wouldn’t personally be able to manage without 1/2” drive, though admittedly there are a lot of times an impact gun isn’t right for me.

Anything above 17mm I’m reaching for 1/2” drive, and there’s a fair bit of that. Sometimes I find 1/2” drive has just the right range of sizes I need - i.e. machine tool work.

You may find there is one nut on the Mini that needs 1/2” drive, and thats the front hub nut. From memory it’s 32mm and is in a tight recess so a 3/4“ drive socket won’t fit. Not sure about an impact.

There are some advantages to going KoKen. They don’t load the price of individual sockets, so if you just wanted say the 6 most common, it wouldn’t be costly.

Although they do offer nice sets of sockets in metal cases.
IMG_2605.jpeg

Have you considered Z Series / Zeal in 1/2” drive? More costly I know, but maybe a good “mid point“ if you have a lot of impacts already?
IMG_2606.jpeg
 
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Dave455

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My favorite, long reach, set of pilers, a truly helpful tool because of the unique jaw design.

Get these too 🤣:

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Nice collection!

I have got those IPS on my wish list too, for the same reason. But probably something to be tacked onto an order coming from Japan.

I don’t really have any of this style of long reach pliers, but given my tendency to drop screws and small parts in inaccessible places, I probably should. I hadn’t considered the Tsunoda, but knowing the quality and value I probably should.

I do have this style (in fact several) so owning the Tsunoda as well might be considered overkill, but this is GJ so perhaps not…!
IMG_2607.jpeg
 
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Steel_Rain

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I hadn’t considered the Tsunoda, but knowing the quality and value I probably should.
Absolutely Dave.

The IPS and Tsunoda are completely different use cases. The Tsunoda are meant for more detailed work while the IPS are much more industrial. If you look at the jaw designs up close, they are really light years apart. I used my Tsunoda's a few weeks ago to fish out a tiny o-ring out of a container, something the IPS stuff wouldn't tackle. But then again, I used the straight IPS one to heat a rivet before holding it in place before bucking.

That said, BUY THEM ALL, because it's GJ. :ROFLMAO:
 

Dave455

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Absolutely Dave.

The IPS and Tsunoda are completely different use cases. The Tsunoda are meant for more detailed work while the IPS are much more industrial. If you look at the jaw designs up close, they are really light years apart. I used my Tsunoda's a few weeks ago to fish out a tiny o-ring out of a container, something the IPS stuff wouldn't tackle. But then again, I used the straight IPS one to heat a rivet before holding it in place before bucking.

That said, BUY THEM ALL, because it's GJ. :ROFLMAO:
For some reason, although I use these styles of pliers much less than others, I seem to be more sensitive to designs not being quite right.

I really don’t like these Stahlwille branded / VBW. They have really sharp corners behind the jaws and I always seem to scrape myself with them. Hate the grips too - hard and rough texture, nasty to use and hard to clean.
IMG_2608.jpeg

These Channellock are much nicer. As are the Record. Love the smooth shape of the Record. This is what you need as you are always using these in confined spaces and sharp corners will always hang up on something.
IMG_2609.jpeg

But these Tsunoda are superb in every respect, and reasonably priced too. These live in my aircraft tools box.
IMG_2610.jpeg

I am aware that all these are a different style of tool compared to the long reach Tsunoda that you have, and a totally different style compared to the IPS, which I think are pretty much unique.

There are occasions though, usually dropping screws, where I could desperately have done with the longer jaws of the LRP-280. Sometimes I think I’m getting ham fisted - but then I look at the amount of space around modern engines and think maybe not.
 

Wrench-Polisher

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Well, nobody's perfect. :ROFLMAO:

J/K, nice collection you have there.
Look I like ugly cars, my next one is going to be a mini cooper clubman. Its like a bar of soap that was stepped on and is now cracked in the back.
 

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Wrench-Polisher

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I wouldn’t personally be able to manage without 1/2” drive, though admittedly there are a lot of times an impact gun isn’t right for me.

Anything above 17mm I’m reaching for 1/2” drive, and there’s a fair bit of that. Sometimes I find 1/2” drive has just the right range of sizes I need - i.e. machine tool work.

You may find there is one nut on the Mini that needs 1/2” drive, and thats the front hub nut. From memory it’s 32mm and is in a tight recess so a 3/4“ drive socket won’t fit. Not sure about an impact.

There are some advantages to going KoKen. They don’t load the price of individual sockets, so if you just wanted say the 6 most common, it wouldn’t be costly.

Although they do offer nice sets of sockets in metal cases.
IMG_2605.jpeg

Have you considered Z Series / Zeal in 1/2” drive? More costly I know, but maybe a good “mid point“ if you have a lot of impacts already?
IMG_2606.jpeg
You are correct. The mini uses a 32mm axle nut, I take that off with 1/2 impact gun and torque that back on using a split beam torque wrench using the same impact socket.
I can see how you would need 1/2 drive stuff for machinery.
 

YesIHaveAHammer

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Jun 1, 2025
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Quoting these from the arrivals thread a while back, to contribute to the thread.

Plastic diagonal cutter
Tsunoda Plastic Cutting Pliers PN-125 (135mm)
After much exploration and weigh-up, I went for this one as it suits my uses. There was practically nothing in it between this and the Knipex 72 01 140, just yellow to distinguish and a bit cheaper. A short length of heat-stretched 15mm hosepipe fits nicely over the end to store it shut.
P_20250630_163312.jpg

Long nose plier
Tsunoda Long Nose Pliers RP-150 (161mm)
Replacement for old beaten up ones. These are really nice and good proportions. The Knipex 25 01 160 are notable daintier by comparison (the "Radio Pliers" name is appropriate) and not to my preference - narrower and thinner body/joint, finer teeth, thinner handles, and lighter.
P_20250703_170714.jpg

Scissors and scraper
Olfa Serrated-Edge Stainless Steel Scissors 5" SCS-1
Actual length 5.5" / 14cm. Thickness at the joint 4.8mm, for comparison electrician's shears (C.K.) are 6.8mm, and Ikea cheap scissors are 3.2mm.

Olfa Multi-Purpose Scraper 25mm/1" SCR-S
The storage guard is welcome, but seems easy to knock off, or lost due to being transparent.

o - Copy.jpg

Adjustable wrench
Lobster / Lobtex Hybrid Adjustable Wrench 150mm (6") UM24XD

Nicely made with little play in all directions. The jaw makes contact on three faces, away from the corners. I measured rotational play of 1.5mm at the end of the handle when holding an M14/22mm bolt, compared to 3.5mm on a Stanley of the same size. The handle is quite narrow which suits my pouch toolkit, but would be uncomfortable for big tight fasteners. The body (9mm) and jaw (6.5 taper to 4mm) are on the thin side too. That's all relative to other adjustables - probably quite similar to standard combination wrenches.

1 - Copy.jpg

Pruning saw
Samurai ICHIBAN pruning saw 300mm (12") GC-300-LH
Got interested in this type while looking for the above one. Had quite a hard time finding anything that was satisfying in terms of handle, holster, value, and origin - unsurprisingly being a pull saw it was Japan who came to tick all the boxes. I was going to get a straight blade but after reading about pros/cons changed my mind to curved, this is pretty moderate (15mm at the midpoint). The blade is taper ground (thinner towards the top), so the teeth don't need to be set, making for a narrower/easier/faster cut (demo).
2 - Copy.jpg
 

rick carpenter

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Good that you found this one made in Japan, @NitroExpress. I read once where all Tajima tapes made today are made in China (and of course I don't know where I read that so I can't 'produce' that claim). Anyhow, looks like that's not true! How did you find this one?

And @Steel_Rain, I have an HLB-300 and like it pretty good. It has not seen heavy use tho.
 

Daytonaer

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Aug 13, 2019
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Hinterland
Can someone help me find a specific tool?

I remember seeing it browsing Japan sourced tools and dismissing it, now I feel I really want it.

It is a screwdriver shape/sized tool for removing the foil/gasket seal from the top of fluid bottles such as oil jugs, washer fluid bottles etc.

I'm aware a flat screwdriver and or a small knife works fine, I thought the same thing until recently when I sliced my finger opening a washer fluid jug.

I thought it was KTC, I can't seem to find it in their current catalogue. I thought it looked similar to their hub cap tool the AH 102. but with one side rounded.

ah102.jpg

Perhaps I dreamt this, or perhaps you can help me ?

Thank you.
 

Dave455

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Can someone help me find a specific tool?

I remember seeing it browsing Japan sourced tools and dismissing it, now I feel I really want it.

It is a screwdriver shape/sized tool for removing the foil/gasket seal from the top of fluid bottles such as oil jugs, washer fluid bottles etc.

I'm aware a flat screwdriver and or a small knife works fine, I thought the same thing until recently when I sliced my finger opening a washer fluid jug.

I thought it was KTC, I can't seem to find it in their current catalogue. I thought it looked similar to their hub cap tool the AH 102. but with one side rounded.

ah102.jpg

Perhaps I dreamt this, or perhaps you can help me ?

Thank you.
Could it have been the ABO-100

Designed for o rings and boots, but would work fine for the purpose described.

I have to say that I really love these KTC handles. One of the few softer grips that I like. Usually sized just right, you can pry or twist easily, and they even clean up.
IMG_2615.jpeg
 

NitroExpress

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Good that you found this one made in Japan, @NitroExpress. I read once where all Tajima tapes made today are made in China (and of course I don't know where I read that so I can't 'produce' that claim). Anyhow, looks like that's not true! How did you find this one?

And @Steel_Rain,
I don’t remember all the details, but I made sure before purchase that COO was Japan.

purchased from Amazon through a re-seller. - TAJIMA Tape Measure - 25 ft x 1-1/16 inch GS-Lock Measuring Tape with Shock Resistant Case & Acrylic Coated Blade - GS-25BW https://a.co/d/gHCXjHz
 

A&P mechanic

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FL
Hi GJ,

  • Does anyone have a recommendation for a made in Japan thin wrench set?

A complete metric set would be perfect, but I found most sets are missing sizes and I can live with that.
What I have found searching this thread is these brands: Ashai, Top and KTC profit make sets.

KTC Profit
10x12, 12x14, 17x19

Ashai
part number SNT0800
8x9, 12x11, 11x13, 14x17, 19x21, 22x23, 24x27, 24x27, 30x32

Top Wrenches
part number CU-5000
8x9, 10x11, 12x13, 14x17, 19x21

I really only need up to like 19mm but I would get the larger set with the bigger sizes/32mm for those just in case moments.
I will probably buy it off Ebay since Amazon Japan may cost more than in years past.
I am leaning towards Ashai but if even wants to sway my decision to another Japanese brand, I’m all ears. Thank you!

I have that wrench holder on a set of their combo wrenches. Does really well in my toolbag.

I’ve used, but don’t own, the KTC Profit and they are really very nice.

You didn’t say if you wanted open end, box end or combination, but all three styles are available in the profit.

Each wrench is only one size, with a different offset at each end on the box end and open end.

The “sets” they offer in the Profit are only 5 piece as far as I can recall, but I don’t see that’s an issue. Just add the sizes you want.

These are quite high quality tools.
IMG_2531.jpegIMG_2529.jpegIMG_2528.jpeg

Another vote for the KTC Profits - they're very well made and feel great to use.


The Ashai thin wrenches arrived from Amazon Japan this weekend.
I like the wrench set and am looking forward to using them.
Thank you for the feedback earlier GJ!
 

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NitroExpress

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Aint no way I'm spending over 40 dollars for a 25 foot tape measure. wtf I can get quality tapes for under a dollar a foot.
Fortunately this years tape measure budget was able to absorb that astronomical $20 extra that was splurged on trying out something new to me.

“Ain’t” no way I’m skimping on my Japanese tape measure….
 
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