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Snip's

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,857
Location
Ohio
I picked up this small parts storage organizer that had seen better days and thought I'd do a refresh...
Hit it with some degreaser and scotch padded the rusty spots...
IMG_5318.jpg

Grabbed a can of Rustoleum Hammered silver and sprayed the unit...
IMG_5319.JPG

Loaded it up with terminal ends...
IMG_5321.jpg
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
I picked up this small parts storage organizer that had seen better days and thought I'd do a refresh...
Hit it with some degreaser and scotch padded the rusty spots...
IMG_5318.jpg

Grabbed a can of Rustoleum Hammered silver and sprayed the unit...
IMG_5319.JPG

Loaded it up with terminal ends...
IMG_5321.jpg
Looks like there's room for a pair of Klein crimpers in the long slot on the right!
 

kwb

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
1,776
Location
PNW
Another 12,000 steps and no actual thing for the day.
The loft is a lot cleaner and organized. Almost to where I want to get it to for the start of creating a dedicated spark protected space for the plasma table.

Didn't get to the leak at the compressor or put shelves in the compressor shed but there's always Sunday.
 

Crazyjake8493

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
3,969
Location
Upstate NY
The chute on my Ariens snowblower has been moving itself, if I'm trying to blow to the side it wanders back to the straight ahead position. The wave washer by the gear on the shaft seemed fine, so I tightened up the nuts a bit to put more tension on it. The chute crank handle was also rattling all over on the dashboard. The plastic snap bushing was doing nothing, so I replaced it with a 3/8" rubber grommet and a tiny bit of grease for the shaft. Much quieter now, and the chute stays where I put it.
 

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Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
Not much in this shop.

I planned out where to put a new-to-us 3bbl fermenter in the ferm hall. Boss suggested putting it somewhere that would require moving ****, wiring and plumbing glycol. Plumbing the glycol to that area would mean shutting down and draining the system. I found a spot where we used to have another tank that's already wired and plumbed with shut-off valves and outlets. I just have to move one large centrifuge back to wher it was used to living before we moved to make room for another piece of equipment (and POS) we no longer have. I'll need to run one PEX line for water and re-wire the the 440V outlet to where it used to be. Tomorrow's project.

Went over to my bud's shop and put in an hour of wrenchin' and lubin' on the Brick project. New clutch slave cylinder was much easier to install with the trans out. Lubed all the door mechanisms with some fancy-*** lock lube. Supposed to be good for -40 to 140F.
 

micromind

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2023
Messages
3,069
Location
Fernley, Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno.
I picked up this small parts storage organizer that had seen better days and thought I'd do a refresh...
Hit it with some degreaser and scotch padded the rusty spots...
IMG_5318.jpg

Grabbed a can of Rustoleum Hammered silver and sprayed the unit...
IMG_5319.JPG

Loaded it up with terminal ends...
IMG_5321.jpg

Do you solder those? Or crimp them? Or both?

I usually solder mine, easy to do and makes a secure connection, even with high current.
 

bugnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,946
Location
Central Ohio
Like a few folks here could not bring myself to throw the cast iron skillet in the recycle bin. I have no use for it or any idea what to use it for. I took the time to melt the candlewax and separate it from the skillet, warmed the skillet enough to be able to wipe clean. Sprayed with cleaner and set it on the work bench. Threw the wax away.
 

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kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,576
Location
Upstate New York
Like a few folks here could not bring myself to throw the cast iron skillet in the recycle bin. I have no use for it or any idea what to use it for. I took the time to melt the candlewax and separate it from the skillet, warmed the skillet enough to be able to wipe clean. Sprayed with cleaner and set it on the work bench. Threw the wax away.
Lessee. Solder drop catcher. Casting overflow catcher. Ingot mold. Hot, drippy utensil holder. Soldering iron trivet.
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,346
Location
DeKalb, IL
That looks handy. Wonder if it would work on my Clausing drill press.

It’s adjustable, claims to work for all manner of shop tools like drill presses, table saws, etc., so it should. Seems pretty sturdy, and is cheaper than building my own.

If all goes well, I won’t move it often. The benchtop size drill press I have now hasn’t moved in ~30 years.
 

WarHawk666

New member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
3
Location
Kent, CT
bae1cece-7e44-4fa3-b1f3-fcf6627c0ecc-1_all_17647.jpgHarbor Freight 29 gallon compressor regulator knob failed on me last night, can't adjust tank output pressure. Store rep informed me I can find parts on their website online however it doesn't have a picture of the regulator so how do I know what exactly I'm purchasing for $15.81? I emailed HF for specifics so here i wait and posted my first contribution to Garage Journal.
I removed the cover, gauges, air hose connector and spun the regulator out. No factory pipe dope was ever used I noticed. Hopefully HF can assist me or I'll look for a decent regulator upgrade for this $500 compressor.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,576
Location
Upstate New York
bae1cece-7e44-4fa3-b1f3-fcf6627c0ecc-1_all_17647.jpgHarbor Freight 29 gallon compressor regulator knob failed on me last night, can't adjust tank output pressure. Store rep informed me I can find parts on their website online however it doesn't have a picture of the regulator so how do I know what exactly I'm purchasing for $15.81? I emailed HF for specifics so here i wait and posted my first contribution to Garage Journal.
I removed the cover, gauges, air hose connector and spun the regulator out. No factory pipe dope was ever used I noticed. Hopefully HF can assist me or I'll look for a decent regulator upgrade for this $500 compressor.
Gauges and regulators are consumables in the pressurized air game. I've replaced mine several times over the years. They get wonky, they go.
 
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bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
11,083
Location
San Antonio
Found a divot in the crank for my AMC 360 build for the 24 Hours of Lemons.

IMG_5664.jpeg

Tore down my spare 360 to harvest the crank and it was nasty and stuck.

IMG_5669.jpeg

IMG_5670.jpeg

While trying to turn it over I broke the crank bolt head off. Snapped flush.

Tried grinding a slot in it with a Dremel cutoff wheel and getting it out with an impact screwdriver but I just broke a bunch of bits.

Busted out the MIG. Welded a washer to the bolt. Then welded a nut to the washer. That did the trick.

IMG_5674.jpeg


IMG_5675.jpegIMG_5677.jpeg
 

pancholasvegas

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
251
Got up early this morning with coffee and headed out to keep working on that panel section.

IMG_3991.jpeg

Next up - considering this is a trailer, we don’t need a filler neck. Several people had suggested to just go over the top with a piece of steel and weld the circumference - I’m sure that would work. My thought was to hammer it back flat and into the body line, reversing the factory stamping operation. My line of thinking was that this was a much smaller section to weld, resulting in less heat, so less warpage.

This is what they look like from the back (example shown of the bad section since I had already started on the good one 👍)

IMG_4017.jpeg

Got to hammering it out and roughing it in.

IMG_3995.jpeg

Lot of beating on it and chasing it around.

IMG_4002.jpeg

I eventually had to burr out the tabs, they had split and started folding onto each other. Then I opened them up a bit more into a more uniform shape before I did the patch.

I cut a small section out of the old scrap body panels from the truck to keep the same steel thickness - it’s obviously too flat.


IMG_4007.jpeg

I neglected to get a photo, but I fumbled it through a few passes on the English wheel and got close enough crown into the patch that it would work. I covered it in black sharpie, inserted behind the opening and used my scribe to trace the outline before cutting and fine tuning the patch.

IMG_4010.jpeg

IMG_4011.jpeg

I hate these magnets but it worked for a few tacks.

IMG_4012.jpeg

Fusion welded as much as possible, couple little spots I had to cram some filler in - count it as good practice.

Worked it with the hammer and dolly a bit and hit it with the DA. I’ll consider that filler neck deleted. Little more bumping and a swipe of filler and it’ll be our secret.

IMG_4016.jpeg
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
Got up early this morning with coffee and headed out to keep working on that panel section.

IMG_3991.jpeg

Next up - considering this is a trailer, we don’t need a filler neck. Several people had suggested to just go over the top with a piece of steel and weld the circumference - I’m sure that would work. My thought was to hammer it back flat and into the body line, reversing the factory stamping operation. My line of thinking was that this was a much smaller section to weld, resulting in less heat, so less warpage.

This is what they look like from the back (example shown of the bad section since I had already started on the good one 👍)

IMG_4017.jpeg

Got to hammering it out and roughing it in.

IMG_3995.jpeg

Lot of beating on it and chasing it around.

IMG_4002.jpeg

I eventually had to burr out the tabs, they had split and started folding onto each other. Then I opened them up a bit more into a more uniform shape before I did the patch.

I cut a small section out of the old scrap body panels from the truck to keep the same steel thickness - it’s obviously too flat.


IMG_4007.jpeg

I neglected to get a photo, but I fumbled it through a few passes on the English wheel and got close enough crown into the patch that it would work. I covered it in black sharpie, inserted behind the opening and used my scribe to trace the outline before cutting and fine tuning the patch.

IMG_4010.jpeg

IMG_4011.jpeg

I hate these magnets but it worked for a few tacks.

IMG_4012.jpeg

Fusion welded as much as possible, couple little spots I had to cram some filler in - count it as good practice.

Worked it with the hammer and dolly a bit and hit it with the DA. I’ll consider that filler neck deleted. Little more bumping and a swipe of filler and it’ll be our secret.

IMG_4016.jpeg
FFS! It's a trailer!

You're a better (body)man than I, Gunga Din.
 

PapaBuilds

Active member
Joined
Dec 24, 2025
Messages
25
I bought a new house with a 2 car garage that no cars will ever fit in because of all my tools. It only had one outlet and we have a fridge and a deep freezer in it, so basically zero outlets for me which won't work as I've got a table saw, miter saw, bandsaw, router, planer, drill press, bench grinder etc. I installed a sub panel (main was full), then ran each wall on its own circuit so its tougher to trip the breaker. Each wall got three 4-gang boxes giving me 36 outlets now. I've never done wiring like this so I got a permit and got it inspected, they signed off on the first inspection so I was happy about that. Next project is a lighting upgrade!
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
Today's "fifteen-minute job" is to move this ~ $100K beer centrifuge:

55036236916_b619239a47_o.jpg

55036583210_bf9c9fc1a4_o.jpg

to here:

55034186050_fc639d1d87_o.jpg

which is where it was used to living until a few (ten?) years back when it was displaced by a snake-oil machine our boss was convinced to buy--which never worked and was a total nightmare to finally get reimbursed for. I had to sign an NDA, so don't ask about it.

Anyhow, not really a fifteen-minute job, but I did tell the boss I thought I could get it done today by myself. Famous last words.

First, I need to move the utilities for it. Start with de-energizing them--CO2, 460V 3-P electric, water. Not a big deal. Now I have to move them back to where they originally were. Turns out there have been many additions to the water and CO2 lines in the intervening years, leaving a complex rat's nest of PEX and fittings. Many of these were for purposes now forgotten, so can just be deleted.

That kept me busy up to lunchtime.

Utilities moved:

55036236936_a20b5fce2a_o.jpg

Blue is water and red is CO2. I love color-coding.

I'll leave the outlet for our friendly local sparky to finish--but at least I tagged the two black wires for him! Why do electricians hates color-coding wires? If two wires on a 3 phase motor are swapped, the motor runs in reverse--really bad for this centrifuge. For that matter, why do they love to use #1 Robertson fasteners? So 19th century, man.

I had to completely remove this expansion tank from its deep, dark corner to turn it 90 degrees:

55036583225_ba645c93ae_o.jpg

We need the expansion tank for the water feed, as the centrifuge is uber-sensitive to fluctuations in water pressure--and if it shuts down, it's about a half-hour to get it up and running again.

It's about as tall as I and too wide to get a bear-hug on. A bit of a wrestling match, but it only weighs maybe 35lb. Got 'er done, anyway.

Now for the big move!

Jack 'er up so I can retract the leveling legs and get the casters back on the floor

55036413663_e792e1a500_o.jpg

only to remember that those casters are frozen solid--not just the swivel, but the rolling part.

55035333407_548afcfe62_o.jpg

I've pulled that nearest one off to see if a bath in hot lye solution in the ultrasonic will free it up.

Plan B is to pull the centrifuge back towards the pallet jack about ten feet. Then I can get the pallet jack on the side of it and push it right into its new (old) home. I have a floor jack at the other end, currently turned 90 degrees from the direction I need to go as it's right up against the wall and there's no way I can get it moving solo. Not enough room to even get a prybar behind it. I need another strong back.

The best laid plans....
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
I bought a new house with a 2 car garage that no cars will ever fit in because of all my tools. It only had one outlet and we have a fridge and a deep freezer in it, so basically zero outlets for me which won't work as I've got a table saw, miter saw, bandsaw, router, planer, drill press, bench grinder etc. I installed a sub panel (main was full), then ran each wall on its own circuit so its tougher to trip the breaker. Each wall got three 4-gang boxes giving me 36 outlets now. I've never done wiring like this so I got a permit and got it inspected, they signed off on the first inspection so I was happy about that. Next project is a lighting upgrade!
I've learned--the hard way--to run individual 20A circuits to each outlet box. You will overload the circuits eventually.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,885
Location
Far NE Oregon
Now you tell me!
Want a beer 'fridge and microwave in the shop? There's one 20A circuit right there.

I got the caster out of the USC and lye after 40 minutes:

55036659880_4a6cd68806_o.jpg

It now sort of rolls--not well, but at least it moves--but the swivel is still frozen solid--like, clamp in in a vise and whack it with a deadblow and it doesn't move a bit solid. I'm betting it's the classic beautiful SS caster with carbon-steel open bearings trick again.
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,687
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Found a divot in the crank for my AMC 360 build for the 24 Hours of Lemons.

IMG_5664.jpeg

Tore down my spare 360 to harvest the crank and it was nasty and stuck.

IMG_5669.jpeg

IMG_5670.jpeg

While trying to turn it over I broke the crank bolt head off. Snapped flush.

Tried grinding a slot in it with a Dremel cutoff wheel and getting it out with an impact screwdriver but I just broke a bunch of bits.

Busted out the MIG. Welded a washer to the bolt. Then welded a nut to the washer. That did the trick.

IMG_5674.jpeg


IMG_5675.jpegIMG_5677.jpeg
You’re putting so much work into this car I think you might be missing the point of that particular race.lol As for that divit, I would have taken down the highs and polished it a bit. It’s not like you’re building a high revving race engine.
 

bulletpruf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
11,083
Location
San Antonio
You’re putting so much work into this car I think you might be missing the point of that particular race.lol As for that divit, I would have taken down the highs and polished it a bit. It’s not like you’re building a high revving race engine.

Point taken, but in my defense, I find it difficult to half-*** stuff.

Good point on the crank as well. If I didn't have a spare, I would have done exactly that - smoothed out the edges and run it.
 
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