Yeah. After 75 years, using that chuck key is futile.
I don't know what the correct size is for a commercially available pin spanner. I make my own which, IMO, is MUCH better and not difficult to fabricate.
I actually watched his series and that’s how I was able to walk through taking everything else apart. He does an excellent job explaining everything step by step. And yea even though his was a different model it was similar enough that I was able to follow his videos. I was tempted to try building a spanner wrench as well because I wasn’t sure which one to buy, and it’d be cheaper to build something. I think that’s probably the route I’ll go. I really appreciate the help. Thank you.
Is this a picture of the one you made? I think I could probably make something similar.Yeah. After 75 years, using that chuck key is futile.
I don't know what the correct size is for a commercially available pin spanner. I make my own which, IMO, is MUCH better and not difficult to fabricate.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press.227480/page-143#post-11453342
Wedges are used for earlier 6A style chucks without the attached safety collar. A pin spanner is the right tool for the 633C, 3333C and some Supreme chucks with the safety collar.
I think I can probably handle making something like this. Just to make sure I’ve got it right, Does the m8 set screw screw in from the back side with an Allen wrench, or do you twist it in from the dog point side. Sorry if that’s a dumb question I’m new at this and really don’t want to mess it up.The diameter of the 633C & 3333C collars is 1.546". So the tap drill center punch should be ~0.773" offset from the handle. I repurposed a piece of 5/8" square bar stock. A grade 8, 3/8-16 x 1-1/4" bolt fits perfectly with the 5/8" bar. The set screw is M8 - 1.25 x 20mm.
I made my first pin spanner in August 2016 with 3/4" square bar stock but felt 3/4" was a bit too large.
I've used these many times on often stubbornly stuck chucks. I never broke a dog point off. However, I always pull the spanner toward me and brace myself appropriately for the possibility of a failure.
I’ll keep this in mind as well. I read some tips about using a little heat, thank you.This worked for me when I got a benchtop Craftsman at an estate sale and wanted to disassemble the drill press...
I cut down a pop can in half and added about a half of cut down pop can of 0W30 engine oil I heated on a hot plate in the garage...
Dipped the chuck end into the hot oil bath for a minute or three... Caused the chuck to expand ever so slightly and came right off...
The hot oil was good for lubricating the internals as a side benefit... I let it drain overnight on some paper towels...
Just make sure there is zero oil on the tapered chuck and spindle surfaces when reassembled...
As bought...
Either way. The hole is tapped through. I used a thread locker on this one.
Ok thank you, doesn’t seem too hard to make and I think I have everything to do it except the m8 screw so that should work well.Either way. The hole is tapped through. I used a thread locker on this one.
On my first one I had a long set screw with a jam nut.
Those feed stop rods regularly show up on ebay. There are three now, but IMO, they are overpriced and/or missing the knurled nuts.
Do yourself a big favor and do not use a lever handle on the head lock. Keep the standard bolt. There is no reason to to have a handle once the head is set and locked. The head is rarely moved. I removed my handle a long time ago after I accidentally hit a lever with my elbow on a different refurb. The head crashed down about 10" to the table.
Awesome thank you that’s not too bad of a price, I’ll keep that as an option as well thank you.
I have a couple pieces of 5/8 all thread and was thinking for the depth stop, I’d try to grind the two flat sides and maybe weld a smaller bolt to the bottom to attach to the bracket. But it might not work, but was going to try it and see how it goes. They do seem pretty pricey for the actual part. I paid $40 for the press so it’s hard to spend more on parts than the machine for now, and i like the idea of being able to make one.Those feed stop rods regularly show up on ebay. There are three now, but IMO, they are overpriced and/or missing the knurled nuts.
When searching for the rod, you can get a longer one from a Craftsman 100 and cut it down. I've done that several times. Your original feed stop rod is threaded 5/8-18 with two flats that are 7/16" apart. Keep in mind that the later 100 and 150 feed stop rods are ACME threaded 5/8-12.
For a quick temporary solution, you can use a length of 3/8-16 all-thread and several hex nuts. Bolt the all-thread to the bracket, one nut on each side., and use another two nuts for adjusting feed depth.
Do yourself a big favor and do not use a lever handle on the head lock. Keep the standard bolt. There is no reason to to have a handle once the head is set and locked. The head is rarely moved. I removed my handle a long time ago after I accidentally hit a lever with my elbow on a different refurb. The head crashed down about 10" to the table.
I may have a later one-piece lock handle for the table; I'll have to check. I am not a fan of those separate zamac handles.
