ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

[bryson]

Continuing on with the Volvo.

When I removed the airbox I saw a lot of wires where the poly loom had deteriorated over the past 309k miles and 20+ years and seeing all of those sharp edges and places for wires to chafe, I couldn't put it back together without addressing that.


Here's a little tip or trick for removing poly loom, get a clothing pick tool as they work great for getting under the poly loom and cutting without damaging any wire insulation. Last time I bought a lot of about half a dozen for a few bucks off of eBay and they work well and last quite a while. They're cheap so if I lose or break one, no big deal and grab another.


Much of the poly loom is deteriorated severally and what was still in place was cut away.


Last of the poly loom removed and discarded.


New 1/2" and 3/8" poly loom installed and routed back in the factory locations.


Ready to accept the airbox, but first one more final smoke test.


Final smoke test to ensure there are no more leaks.


I have now verified with high confidence that the vacuum leaks are corrected. I had to keep going back through my 4 C's as I was getting to the "confirm" step and I couldn't confirm I had no more leaks, so back to the start again with addressing the "condition".


Engine bay reassembled and car is running great.


When the client brought me the car it stated all along that it was much worse when cold, so to really test it, I parked it outside overnight so I could let it get cold soaked and then give it a try. It started right up on Saturday morning, idled up around 1200-1400 at high idle, then idled right down to about 1000 RPM and finally settling on a nice stable ~750 RPM with excellent acceleration from idle up. No more hesitation or stumbling just at tip in.



The owner didn't come and pick it up until Sunday morning so that gave me another day to let it sit outside and get cold soaked for another 24-hours to ensure it was running properly. Owner picked it up Sunday morning and seemed to be pleased.

Thanks for watching.

Great work sorting out the Volvo!

If you need the handles to match on your tools, Snap-On does sell a loom splitter. In my experience, it isn't necessarily more robust than the cheaper ones, but at least it's easy to get warrantied if you break it.

 

[zmotorsports]

Great work sorting out the Volvo!

If you need the handles to match on your tools, Snap-On does sell a loom splitter. In my experience, it isn't necessarily more robust than the cheaper ones, but at least it's easy to get warrantied if you break it.

Good to know, thanks. I generally just put a few wraps of electrical tape on the handle of one so I know which one I've been using. When it gets bent or worn, I toss it and wrap the handle of another one. I didn't realize Snap-on also made these.

 

[ScepterToad]

Nice work on the Volvo Mike!

I've been digging around looking for a coolant vac/refill setup this past weekend. I searched this thread and didn't see a clear indication of the system you use, but I wondered if you might snap a picture of it or let me (us) know what setup you use. Wouldn't mind getting a setup to use moving forward and especially one that I can use for the upcoming generator service.

Thanks!

 

[Mr.zippy]

Mike, I picked this up last Spring.....I've been going through it fixing neglected items. Definitely a challenge as Volvo does engineering "different" for lack of better words. Still have a turbo oil leak I'm fighting. Just about impossible to get to anything from underneath.
When can I drop it off?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Loom splitter? That looks like my wife's stitch remover (sewing supplies), although with maybe a more robust handle.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, I picked this up last Spring.....I've been going through it fixing neglected items. Definitely a challenge as Volvo does engineering "different" for lack of better words. Still have a turbo oil leak I'm fighting. Just about impossible to get to anything from underneath.
When can I drop it off?

Looks just like the one I've been working on. Yeah, they definitely do a few things differently, that's an understatement.

Loom splitter? That looks like my wife's stitch remover (sewing supplies), although with maybe a more robust handle.

That's exactly what it is Jeff, a stitch remover for sewing, I bought a six-pack of inexpensive ones as they work so well.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice work on the Volvo Mike!

I've been digging around looking for a coolant vac/refill setup this past weekend. I searched this thread and didn't see a clear indication of the system you use, but I wondered if you might snap a picture of it or let me (us) know what setup you use. Wouldn't mind getting a setup to use moving forward and especially one that I can use for the upcoming generator service.

Thanks!

Thanks Keith. I use an Air Lift coolant refill system. It's an old system as I've had it at least 25+ years now. I believe they still market one under the same name but it looks a bit different than mine. There are several brands that make and market these, including MityVac, Snap-on and a few others, but they all work in the same manner, just depends on how many extras you want or how brand loyal you are. This one has never let me down whether working on powersports equipment, vehicles or generators. I did have to buy a couple of adapters however.

 

[rd65]

Ordered up an Amazon 6 pack of seam rippers for less than $7 (with good ol' Wa sales tax) Will give a few to the boy to put in his box at home. Thanks.

 

[ScepterToad]

Thanks Keith. I use an Air Lift coolant refill system. It's an old system as I've had it at least 25+ years now. I believe they still market one under the same name but it looks a bit different than mine. There are several brands that make and market these, including MityVac, Snap-on and a few others, but they all work in the same manner, just depends on how many extras you want or how brand loyal you are. This one has never let me down whether working on powersports equipment, vehicles or generators. I did have to buy a couple of adapters however.

Thanks Mike! I'll check it out. I'm not super brand loyal and I don't do work for people outside of pretty immediate family, so affordability and use case is key when I purchase something I might use once a year.

 

[GRN96WS6]

Thanks Mike! I'll check it out. I'm not super brand loyal and I don't do work for people outside of pretty immediate family, so affordability and use case is key when I purchase something I might use once a year.

Astro makes one as well, I have it and it works well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042KOK28/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[zmotorsports]

Last night my son needed the lift to service his wife's RDX, so I tackled a couple of minor jobs that were on my "to do" list while waiting for the next job to show up.

For nearly the past year I have been having an issue with the washer fluid level dropping in my Jeep, yet no puddle on the floor. The dropping fluid level also seems to be more prevalent during our off-road adventures, so I was assuming it was sloshed around and exiting the cap. I put a new cap on it last fall and it seemed to be better for a trip or two, but then with not driving it much over the past couple of months I noticed it still dropping a little as I keep it pretty topped off. I started to think maybe I had a crack in the reservoir but they are no longer available through Jeep/Chrysler so I thought I'd end up having to remove it and repair it. Then a couple of weeks ago I moved some wiring around near the Jeep PCM and noticed a very small wet spot, right near the pump. I did a little research and according to the Jeep forums, many owners have been replacing the hard plastic strainer and grommet with one from BMW. The BMW one is exactly the same dimensions, but the grommet is rubber and it is reported that it does a better job of sealing, so I ordered one to try.

It arrived a few days ago so while my son was servicing his car, I pulled the Jeep into the shop and what I thought was going to be a bigger job due to having to remove the factory PCM and wiring, turned out to be a 15-minute repair. It actually took me longer to **** the whole gallon of washer fluid from the reservoir than it did to unplug the PCM connectors to gain access to the pump and slip it out of place.


The OEM BMW washer grommet and strainer assembly.


Side by side. You can see the hard plastic Jeep/Chrysler one has been leaking due to the blue fluid buildup around the base, whereas the BMW one is rubber.


A little Sil-Glyde applied to aid in installation.



With the Jeep washer leak repaired, I turned to the next item on my "to do" list for the Jeep. The last time we used our Rotopax fuel jugs on the spare tire, the nut for one of the clamps broke free from the metal mount. Looks like it was resistance welded and broke free. With it being a few inches up inside of the mount, I didn't think I could get my MIG nozzle down inside, so I came up with a different plan. I cut a piece of .125" P&O that would sit down inside, then I'd just drill a couple of holes and plug (Rosette) weld the nut plates in place. Actually, I was just looking for another reason to use this rivnut tool again.


Ready to assemble and weld.


Staring at the non-broken one, I figured it was only a matter of time until it broke free as well, so I advanced it decline and broke the nut loose so I could repair both in the same manner. Plus I got to use the rivnut tool again. With both mounts prepped it was time to spot weld them.


Small plug welds and then flattened off with a Roloc disc.


Slapped some paint on them and they are ready for the next trip.



My son finished up his LOF service and tire rotation so as he backed it off and headed home, I pulled the next car onto the lift and racked it. I didn't get much done because just as I was raising it up to start looking at it the wife arrived home and I was ready to call it a day.




Thanks for looking.

 

[gearhead1960]

Mike, Please be aware that BMW strongly advices against using cheap washer fluid (they want to sell you theirs) as the strainer/filter seems to get clogged after several years of use. I know as I have cleaned mine several times over the years on my Mini Clubman (same as BMW X1).

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, Please be aware that BMW strongly advices against using cheap washer fluid (they want to sell you theirs) as the strainer/filter seems to get clogged after several years of use. I know as I have cleaned mine several times over the years on my Mini Clubman (same as BMW X1).

I have not heard that, but if you look closely you can see the hole size and patterns are exactly the same as the Jeep/Chrysler strainer, so I don't see why one would be more prone to clogging than the other. Sounds to me like a marketing ploy on BMW's part. I don't use anything special other than Peak -20 or 0 degree from my local NAPA and have had no issues with my strainer (see pictures as it is perfectly clean upon removal) nor even any buildup in my reservoir in the 15 years and 170k+ miles I've had my Jeep, so I see no reason to change now.

 

[plain2car]

Mike... thanks for the updates.. I was out for a bit & had to catch up!.. I know I am late to the RV exhaust game..... but! I think the RV would really sing with a set of 4 pipe Zoomies sticking out and up just before the rear wheels!! well just my 0.2 pennies thought..... what you have though I think is just as nice & gets the job done!! nice!!!

 

[gearhead1960]

I have not heard that, but if you look closely you can see the hole size and patterns are exactly the same as the Jeep/Chrysler strainer, so I don't see why one would be more prone to clogging than the other. Sounds to me like a marketing ploy on BMW's part. I don't use anything special other than Peak -20 or 0 degree from my local NAPA and have had no issues with my strainer (see pictures as it is perfectly clean upon removal) nor even any buildup in my reservoir in the 15 years and 170k+ miles I've had my Jeep, so I see no reason to change now.

Mike, I wasn't making the assumption that you were using cheap washer fluid, just that BMW recommends against cheap (Walmart or chinesium brands) which I've been guilty of using. I've had that issue and now use only BMW or name brank washer fluid. For some reason, the cheap fluids, for lack of better ingredients, cause a build up in the strainer that has the consistency of snot!

 

[GRN96WS6]

Mike, I wasn't making the assumption that you were using cheap washer fluid, just that BMW recommends against cheap (Walmart or chinesium brands) which I've been guilty of using. I've had that issue and now use only BMW or name brank washer fluid. For some reason, the cheap fluids, for lack of better ingredients, cause a build up in the strainer that has the consistency of snot!

Interesting, I've never seen or heard this and run whatever in my BMW and have not had any issues, now watch though!

 

[gearhead1960]

Interesting, I've never seen or heard this and run whatever in my BMW and have not had any issues, now watch though!

It seems to be a known issue on the Clubman

 

[ntsqd]

I had to clean out one washer reservoir because it got contaminated with some kind of moldy growth in it. I'd have never guessed that would be possible in actual washer fluid and not plain water.

 

[CGarage]

My opinion is it has to do with persons using garden hose water - rather than distilled water - in the windscreen washer reservoirs and this causes buildup over time (calcium deposits, etc).

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, I wasn't making the assumption that you were using cheap washer fluid, just that BMW recommends against cheap (Walmart or chinesium brands) which I've been guilty of using. I've had that issue and now use only BMW or name brank washer fluid. For some reason, the cheap fluids, for lack of better ingredients, cause a build up in the strainer that has the consistency of snot!

Mark, I understood you were just providing information. I had just never heard of that nor had an issue, but again, I don't use off the wall gas station washer fluid and have only been using the Peak brand from my local NAPA so that may be why I haven't experienced any issues. Even when we travel I carry a gallon of washer fluid in the coach for the Jeep so I'm not forced to buy **** in a pinch.

In our last coach the previous owner used something that was horrible and I had to clean everything from the reservoir all the way through to the discharge nozzles in the wipers and that was my lesson to use good quality washer fluid. Previous to that I thought washer fluid was washer fluid, but I agree, there are different grades.

I will admit, I was pleased when I emptied all of the washer fluid from the reservoir and saw no contaminants or film lining the inside of my reservoir last night.

 

[ntsqd]

My opinion is it has to do with persons using garden hose water - rather than distilled water - in the windscreen washer reservoirs and this causes buildup over time (calcium deposits, etc).

Before I got educated about tap water in vehicles on the whole, that was me and those were the results.

 

[zmotorsports]

Got to work on the 2016 Crosstrek last night.

Customer complaint was oil dripping on their garage floor and heard horror stories of it being a rear main or front timing cover, so he wanted me to explore and diagnose it.

Oil dripping from the front lower cover but it appeared to be coming from higher up.


Cover removed and it was confirmed that it appears to be coming from the valve cover on the driver's side.






I sent a few pictures and the owner authorized me to proceed with the repairs. Battery coming out, will also need attention before going back in.


Coils removed and oil was covering them so not only is the peripheral gasket leaking, but it appears the plug tube seals are also compromised.






Oil running out of the plug wells once the coils were removed.



Stay tuned for more.

 

[zmotorsports]

Continuing on with the Subaru work.

I had snapped a couple pictures of the passenger's side as well as it wasn't dripping, yet, but it appeared to have some oil residue so I don't think it was far behind the other one. I gave the owner a quote and informed him that the gaskets come in a set so I already have the gasket for the other side and he authorized doing both sides. Also, while I had him on the phone he authorized me to service both front and rear differentials as well as the transmission as they haven't been done before.


I think it was the right call to do the passenger's side at this time as there was oil present when I pulled the coils.




Before removing the valve covers, I sprayed the areas down with brake cleaner and blew the nooks and crannies out to prevent anything from getting into the engine once it is opened up.


Passenger's side valve cover removed.


Driver's side removed. It was tight, but it can be accomplished without having to lift or move the engine in the bay.





Covered up for the night.



Now to grab parts. Also convinced him to have me replace the PCV valve and spark plugs while I'm in there. I explained the mileage and the timing of the plugs as well as keeping internal pressures at a minimum to avoid further leaks so I always advise replacing the PCV valve when repairing engine leaks.


Thanks for looking.

 

[madison069]

My opinion is it has to do with persons using garden hose water - rather than distilled water - in the windscreen washer reservoirs and this causes buildup over time (calcium deposits, etc).

not me!

 

[aka Larry]

My opinion is it has to do with persons using garden hose water - rather than distilled water - in the windscreen washer reservoirs and this causes buildup over time (calcium deposits, etc).

I don't think I've ever used any actual tap water in mine. I've used the Rain-X stuff exclusively for the last 10 years or so.

 

[madison069]

The PCV is the number one reason for oil leaking through gaskets on the Subaru 2.5l engine.
currently mine at still sealed at 86,000 miles.

 

[madison069]

I don't think I've ever used any actual tap water in mine. I've used the Rain-X stuff exclusively for the last 10 years or so.

I use the orange Rain-x also now

 

[zmotorsports]

I don't think I've ever used any actual tap water in mine. I've used the Rain-X stuff exclusively for the last 10 years or so.

I'm embarrassed to admit this Vincent, but up until about 25 years or so ago, I used tap water for both batteries and cooling system in cars and even in the windshield washer systems of our farm trucks when growing up. We often had problems with plugged pumps and nozzles and I never understood why, but back then it was nothing to spray down the windshield with the garden hose when pulling into the yard to unload before heading back out to the field. I had a couple of "questionable" opportunities that led me down the path of only using distilled water in batteries and cooling systems and have done so ever since. In washer reservoirs, I have only been using a good quality fluid such as the Peak from my local NAPA for the past couple of decades at least. I'm sure there are others out there (I have not tried Rain-X), but the Peak is readily available, good quality and not overly expensive as it is literally a fluid that gets expelled and wasted.

The PCV is the number one reason for oil leaking through gaskets on the Subaru 2.5l engine.
currently mine at still sealed at 86,000 miles.

Cody, I agree, but not just for the Subaru boxer engines, for most engines the PCV is neglected from my experience. When I had my speed shop, I recommended replacement of these along with other routine maintenance procedures and most accepted this advice with ease but admitted to not knowing about them. Only a handful resisted my recommendation, but just as importantly, for many years now I have followed the protocol of replacing a PCV valve whenever leaks are addressed on an engine. Similarly to ensuring vents are open and not restricted on axles and transfer cases because as pressures increase they will attack the weakest place, which is usually an engine seal or gasket.

 

[CGarage]

~ 20 years ago, Prestone (maybe Peak) (iirc) sold a quality, pink windshield washing fluid that I really liked.
All good things come to an end, and I have not seen it since.

I have been using the blue Supertech from Walmart without issue.

Walmart has extremely aggressive corporate buyers/purchasers, and more cash in the bank than any auto parts store / chain. This formula means Walmart can go to big chemical manufacturers and have them produce a product that gets a private label. The Supertech “house brand” products are NOT bad.

 

[zmotorsports]

~ 20 years ago, Prestone (maybe Peak) (iirc) sold a quality, pink windshield washing fluid that I really liked.
All good things come to an end, and I have not seen it since.

I have been using the blue Supertech from Walmart without issue.

Walmart has extremely aggressive corporate buyers/purchasers, and more cash in the bank than any auto parts store / chain. The Supertech “house brand” products are NOT bad.

I'm not disputing the corporate buying power that "W*****t" has, but I just cannot bring myself to go into one of "those" stores. It's a personal hangup.

 

[CGarage]

I'm not disputing the corporate buying power that "W*****t" has, but I just cannot bring myself to go into one of "those" stores. It's a personal hangup.

Why not? I think it depends on the area the store is located in, but the auto section is really useful and I do like some of the groceries. The convenience of it is hard to beat.

I understand there is some “stigma” about Walmart in the U.S., and the people who go there. I have not had a bad experience. It is like a country store with everything possible available for sale.

 

[signcrafter]

I'm embarrassed to admit this Vincent, but up until about 25 years or so ago, I used tap water for both batteries and cooling system in cars and even in the windshield washer systems of our farm trucks when growing up. We often had problems with plugged pumps and nozzles and I never understood why, but back then it was nothing to spray down the windshield with the garden hose when pulling into the yard to unload before heading back out to the field. I had a couple of "questionable" opportunities that led me down the path of only using distilled water in batteries and cooling systems and have done so ever since. In washer reservoirs, I have only been using a good quality fluid such as the Peak from my local NAPA for the past couple of decades at least. I'm sure there are others out there (I have not tried Rain-X), but the Peak is readily available, good quality and not overly expensive as it is literally a fluid that gets expelled and wasted.




Cody, I agree, but not just for the Subaru boxer engines, for most engines the PCV is neglected from my experience. When I had my speed shop, I recommended replacement of these along with other routine maintenance procedures and most accepted this advice with ease but admitted to not knowing about them. Only a handful resisted my recommendation, but just as importantly, for many years now I have followed the protocol of replacing a PCV valve whenever leaks are addressed on an engine. Similarly to ensuring vents are open and not restricted on axles and transfer cases because as pressures increase they will attack the weakest place, which is usually an engine seal or gasket.

It used to be that PCV valves were a 5 dollar part on top of the engine with a hose going to them. Now a lot of manufacturers decided it was a good idea to redesign the system and build them into the valve cover or built into a hose that costs 150 dollars. Makes it harder to justify replacing it as a precautionary thing but I agree with you that it's a valve that can fail relatively easy and it's a good idea to replace them. I used to do it with every tune up I did just because they were cheap and easy to do. Now you got engines like GM's wonderful 1.4 that the PCV is built into the valve cover and then a check valve in the intake manifold that they want you to replace both when(not if) they have issues.

 

[zmotorsports]

Why not? I think it depends on the area the store is located in, but the auto section is really useful and I do like some of the groceries. The convenience of it is hard to beat.

I understand there is some “stigma” about Walmart in the U.S., and the people who go there. I have not had a bad experience. It is like a country store with everything possible available for sale.

Not criticizing anyone for going there, but for me it's a personal thing.

It used to be that PCV valves were a 5 dollar part on top of the engine with a hose going to them. Now a lot of manufacturers decided it was a good idea to redesign the system and build them into the valve cover or built into a hose that costs 150 dollars. Makes it harder to justify replacing it as a precautionary thing but I agree with you that it's a valve that can fail relatively easy and it's a good idea to replace them. I used to do it with every tune up I did just because they were cheap and easy to do. Now you got engines like GM's wonderful 1.4 that the PCV is built into the valve cover and then a check valve in the intake manifold that they want you to replace both when(not if) they have issues.

Agreed Scott, I should have mentioned there are some caveats to my theory, but for the most part I try to replace them when fixing leaks. Others if I have the systems apart, they get thorough inspected and cleaned at minimum.

 

[aka Larry]

I'm not disputing the corporate buying power that "W*****t" has, but I just cannot bring myself to go into one of "those" stores. It's a personal hangup.

Same for me Mike.

The only thing I used to buy from what I call "The Evil Empire" was motor oil as it was sometimes $5/gallon cheaper than O'Reillys. During Covid I decided it was worth $5 NOT to shop there. I won't say I'll never go there, but it's usually my last resort.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't know about Subaru's, but every PCV sold for a Toyota 22R/RE is wrongly calibrated and the engine won't run correctly with an aftermarket valve. OEM is the only valve that works correctly. I do not know why, but having traveled that path with my old 22R I'd look into if this is the Sube situation as well.

My wife calls Mall-Wart "The Gates of Hell." I'm not sure it's that bad, but I don't go there unless I have a very, very good specific reason to do so.

 

[madison069]

Not sure but I usually go with the OEM pcv as it’s not too expensive, $25 I think.

 

[M.Brane]

I make my own washer fluid. Distilled H2O, vinegar, alcohol, and Dawn. Cheap, and it works. You can customize the ratios based on your conditions.

 

[PugetDude]

I use the orange Rain-x also now

Does that work better than the bucket of window wash at the local gas station/convenience store. (asking for a friend...)

 

[CGarage]

Does that work better than the bucket of window wash at the local gas station/convenience store. (asking for a friend...)

The gas stations never seem to fill or re-fill the window wash stations here and the few that do have a squeegee and fluid, the fluid looks to be a week old and beyond filthy. I really like major interstate truck stops in the U.S. because they have better fuel quality it seems and they keep up on maintaining the facilities to a high standard.

 

[HEEP]

The gas stations never seem to fill or re-fill the window wash stations here and the few that do have a squeegee and fluid, the fluid looks to be a week old and beyond filthy. I really like major interstate truck stops in the U.S. because they have better fuel quality it seems and they keep up on maintaining the facilities to a high standard.

Not to mention the fact that people will wash the gas off their car after they overfill the tank. Nothing like spreading gas all over the windshield.

Bill