ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

[madison069]

Does that work better than the bucket of window wash at the local gas station/convenience store. (asking for a friend...)

As long as you filter the bucket of window wash with a handkerchief it’s a fine product to use, but I hated blowing my nose into bug guts so the rain-x washer fluid stopped that issue.

 

[zmotorsports]

I knocked out quite a bit of work on the Subie last night before dinner and we got a visit from our kids and grandson.

Cleaning is the worst part of this job, but I learned many, many years ago that cleaning and preparation is one of the most important steps in the process. I see all too often people rush during the teardown just to get to the reassembly, but skimp or do the most important part half-assed. If the surface isn't cleaned of all remaining sealants and/or debris you are pretty much guaranteed a leak. Areas to focus on in particular are the areas where two components meet and create a corner or change in direction, but the gaskets struggle to seal in these areas and therefore most every manufacturer recommends some form of sealant in these corners. Unfortunately, access on this particular vehicle is less than optimum with only having a couple of inches between the frame rail and the head surface of the cam cover. The upper half isn't terribly bad, but the bottom half is another story.


I purchased this extra long scraper about 30 years ago and although it doesn't come out of the toolbox very often these days, when the situation calls, it's priceless for reaching those difficult areas.


The plastic razor blades also prevent gouging of the aluminum surface or scratching the cam lobes, neither of which are desirable outcomes.


Once I have removed all of the material with the scraper, I run over the surface with some Scotchbrite to ensure nothing is remaining. Then I will give everything a wipe with a clean towel and some brake wash just before assembling the cover.


With the surface cleaning completed, I moved on to cleaning out the spark plug wells and then removing the spark plugs.


New plugs ready to be installed.


New plugs being installed. I have this old rubber install tool from several decades ago but I still like using it. A piece of fuel line works just as good, but it doesn't have the same sentimental feeling as an old and reliable tool does.


With the plugs installed and snugged, they can be torqued to spec.


New gaskets opened up. The correct spark plug tube seals were selected.


and installed.



At that point the engine side of things is ready for reassembly.


More to come.

 

[zmotorsports]

Continuing on.


With the engine side of things cleaned and ready to accept parts and reassembly, I turned my attention to the other components needing cleaning and preparation.

As I was tearing it down, I noted that the battery hold-down was in terrible condition. So off to the blasting cabinet it went.


A short time later this emerged.


That is much better.


Then the oily mess can be cleaned off the cam covers and the lower power steering pump cover that was also covered in oil and debris.


All of the fasteners cleaned and allowed to dry.


Coils were cleaned and wiped down in preparation for reinstallation.


The fuel rail heat shields were wiped down and the new gaskets were installed in the cam covers.



And that is where I left off for the evening as I didn't feel like I had time to apply the sealant and reassemble the cam covers as once I start the assembly including sealant, I like to move all the way through. Subaru has a few areas on each cam cover where they recommend sealant so just before assembly that will be applied.

Thanks for looking.

 

[fouckhest]

You've had quite the "eclectic mix" of vehicles lately, Mike! I think this might be a the winds of karma blowing back at you for all the fun you poke at yourself for "I do more than rings & pinions!!"

That being said, this certainly brings back some PTSD, I had a brief love affair with a Subaru Forester that I traded for a Ford Ranger many years ago when I needed a dog hauler....It was a great car till it ate a head gasket and I decided to do the head gaskets and timing set with the engine in the car...not fun!

 

[zmotorsports]

You've had quite the "eclectic mix" of vehicles lately, Mike! I think this might be a the winds of karma blowing back at you for all the fun you poke at yourself for "I do more than rings & pinions!!"

That being said, this certainly brings back some PTSD, I had a brief love affair with a Subaru Forester that I traded for a Ford Ranger many years ago when I needed a dog hauler....It was a great car till it ate a head gasket and I decided to do the head gaskets and timing set with the engine in the car...not fun!

Thanks Mike, yeah, it's nice to step outside the world of gears and rear ends once in a while. You know, see how the other half lives.

My DIL had a similar car and if memory serves, Subaru stated in their FSM to drop the powertrain to do heads. I can see where it "could" be done in the car, but very tight. Just cleaning the sealant off the head surface for the cam covers, I can see how much easier it would have been with the engine lowered from the car. As long as it took me to clean the surfaces, it may have been a toss up time wise....

 

[madison069]

Mike, what is the size of your part cleaner sink?

 

[Neohio]

Thanks Mike, yeah, it's nice to step outside the world of gears and rear ends once in a while. You know, see how the other half lives.

My DIL had a similar car and if memory serves, Subaru stated in their FSM to drop the powertrain to do heads. I can see where it "could" be done in the car, but very tight. Just cleaning the sealant off the head surface for the cam covers, I can see how much easier it would have been with the engine lowered from the car. As long as it took me to clean the surfaces, it may have been a toss up time wise....

With your hydraulic lift table, dropping the engine out may have been quicker than you imagined.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, what is the size of your part cleaner sink?

Cody, I looked it up online and the tank size is 32" x 22" x 10".

https://zepequipment.com/documents/915501_Specs.pdf

 

[zmotorsports]

With your hydraulic lift table, dropping the engine out may have been quicker than you imagined.

Exactly Cody. When they approached me to diagnose and fix the leak I almost figured it would get used because the owner told me that the shop they had look at it prior told them it was "more than likely the rear main". Not sure where they were looking because the mating area between the engine and trans was dry as a bone. But I was almost expecting to have to drop the powertrain for this one until I got it on the rack and saw the source of the oil leak.

 

[madison069]

Usually if gaskets get replaced there’s others that will fail soon on Subaru if it’s caused by a plugged pcv. It’s a bad case of while I’m here, deal but I’ve seen where others just pull the engine and replace all exterior gaskets. I’ve seen the motor pulled in a couple of hours if they are experienced at pulling those 2.5L.

 

[SilverJimmy]

Mike, in all the years I was going to the local Subaru dealer I never saw any of the techs use an engine stand. They always just set the engine oil pan first into an old 35 gallon lube barrel. And they would pull the engine if they were doing anything more involved than just simple maintenance like plug changes or the like. If the cam covers had to come off out came the engine!

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, in all the years I was going to the local Subaru dealer I never saw any of the techs use an engine stand. They always just set the engine oil pan first into an old 35 gallon lube barrel. And they would pull the engine if they were doing anything more involved than just simple maintenance like plug changes or the like. If the cam covers had to come off out came the engine!

Sterling, if memory serves when my son and I looked at the FSM for his wife's 2018 Crosstrek, it stated pretty much the same thing as you just mentioned, the cam covers required dropping the powertrain. While it was very tight in there, it was doable without dropping the powertrain, BUT, it sure would have been easier to have access for cleaning the old sealant without the engine between the frame rails.

I'm shocked about the dealerships not having engine stands and only using lube drums though, that really screams professionalism.

I would bet that a customer would love to see their pride and joy's engine sitting on a drum/barrel.

 

[SilverJimmy]

I tried to help them out and to be more professional and get them stands but they told me that using a drum was taught even at the school when they went for training. I know it sounds like a hack job but the way that the Subaru engine is designed with the oil sump hanging down they just fit in the barrel. And it also puts the engine at the perfect work height for reinstalling into the car when it’s on a two post lift. It works!

 

[ntsqd]

Horses for Courses.
I bolted the bell-housing part of a Bus transaxle to my engine stand for the avatar's engine, but that was really only used when I wanted to run it (or any other ACVW engine) out of the vehicle. The rest of the time it sat on the floor, lift pad of my floor jack, or once on an upside down plastic bucket.
No way would any of that be possible or considerable with a non boxer engine.

 

[zmotorsports]

Back when I was doing VW engines, I built an adapter similar to this which I used in my engine stand. I haven't had a Subaru engine apart that deep so I'm not sure if it would work on a Subie engine. I used enough barrels, pallets and crates when I lived on my parent's farm and swore I'd never do that again.

 

[madison069]

Back when I was doing VW engines, I built an adapter similar to this which I used in my engine stand. I haven't had a Subaru engine apart that deep so I'm not sure if it would work on a Subie engine. I used enough barrels, pallets and crates when I lived on my parent's farm and swore I'd never do that again.

We did what we had to at the time and now we have the means to have better setups and tools for the job.

I have thought about getting an older Subaru with a transmission that’s rebuildable to fix up and modify it for lifts and bigger tires. Seems like they are fun for snow and playing off-road. But not sure if I’ll ever do it.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have thought about getting an older Subaru with a transmission that’s rebuildable to fix up and modify it for lifts and bigger tires. Seems like they are fun for snow and playing off-road. But not sure if I’ll ever do it.

Cody, I hear Jeeps are fun off-road.

 

[ntsqd]

Seems like when used hard that Sube's pop head gaskets and trans-axles more often than normal. That's merely an impression that I get from reading a range of different forums, but mostly from GRM.

 

[madison069]

Cody, I hear Jeeps are fun off-road.

But the prices for rusted out jeeps here in Pa turns me away from Jeeps. Subaru seems cheap enough to play with and not requiring a cashed out IRA account.

 

[madison069]

Checked market place, prices seems to have dropped some but still rusted out stuff. I’ll have to look down south for a better body and frame.

 

[zmotorsports]

Checked market place, prices seems to have dropped some but still rusted out stuff. I’ll have to look down south for a better body and frame.

Road trip.

 

[zmotorsports]

Completed quite a bit on the Subie last night.

Here is a snippet from the FSM showing where sealant is to be applied. Basically wherever there is a direction change between the flat head mating surface and the camshaft caps where there is a seam or joint. You can apply it to the head surface or the gasket surface, but in this application it is actually easier to apply to the gasket on the camshaft cover.



Thought I'd have a little fun with these next few pictures showing where the sealant should be directed.






And on the gaskets.




I'm shifting gears here a little and trying a new sealant/RTV on this job. Any of you who follow me know I am a heavy advocate for the GM ES (Engine Sealant), however, it is harder to get here along the Wasatch Front (yeah we're damn near as bad as California in terms of EPA) over the past several years. I have been stopping at various GM dealerships around where the wife and I travel and have bought a few tubes here and there as needed, but we haven't traveled anywhere in a while and my stock is getting low. I have read very good things about the Rienzosil RVT from Victor Reinz, which is owned by Dana Corp. Many of the import forums praise this so I thought I'd give it a try. In fact, reading the specs on it, it appears to have a little higher temperature range as well as supposedly stays a little more flexible. I can purchase it here locally so I thought I'd give it a try on this job.


Prior to assembly I gave the mating surfaces one last wipe with a clean paper towel sprayed with brake wash.




Stay tuned for more pictures.

 

[zmotorsports]

Continuing on.

With just the tip of the applicator nozzle cut, it spread nicely. I can tell a little difference in consistency compared to the GM ES sealant I am used to and although the packaging states grey in color, it is more of a dark graphite in color. If any of you have used the Permatex Ultra Black, is more resembles that than the GM Engine Sealant in texture and consistency. Not saying one is better or worse at this point, just sharing my thoughts on the differences.




This next step is not listed in the FSM, nor do I see anyone doing it on any of the forums or videos creators that I follow, but I feel it aids in startup after having the engine open. With all of the cleaning and wiping of the head surface, it is unavoidable that one would also wipe off any oil residue from the camshafts. On V-series of engines it is quite easy to pour a little motor oil over the cam lobes before reinstalling the cam covers, but in this application the oil would merely run all over the nicely cleaned mating surfaces where I want the gasket and sealant to actually seal, so that didn't appeal to me. So, I grabbed a little assembly lube as it is thicker and will stay put for more than a few seconds.


I applied it to each of the cam lobes and directed some back to the lifter as well, then took my finger and smeared it to the underside of each lobe working quickly to then get the cam cover in place and bolts started.


Cam cover in place and bolts snugged down, before the torquing process can begin. The lower rearmost bolt on the driver's side was the most difficult to get to.


Torquing to spec.


I numbered the coils as I removed them to insure they went back to the correct location. I also cleaned the oil from them the other night but right before I reinstalled them, I took a little brake wash on a paper towel and removed the paint marking that I put on it. I don't know why, but I just don't like seeing the markings on these if they don't need to be there. Kind of like trying to make it look like no one has been in there.


Coils on the driver's side installed and connected as well as the heat shield for the fuel rail installed and torqued to spec.





Stay tuned for more pictures.

 

[zmotorsports]

Continuing on.

While the car was raised to gain access to the lower fasteners for torquing, I thoroughly cleaned off the underside of the oil residue from the leak as well as the cleaning process.


Then repeated the assembly process on the passenger's side.


With the engine assembled, it was time to put the engine bay back together and allow the sealant the evening to cure.


Inner fender well area was wiped down with cleaner as was the intake duct and air box before installing.


Same on the driver's side, the inner fender well and fuse panel were wiped down and battery prepped. There was actually quite a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals at disassembly, so that was all cleaned and prepped before installing the battery.


Battery tray, battery and freshly painted hold down all installed before connecting the terminals and coating with NOCO protector.


Engine and engine bay fully assembled.



Stay tuned for a few more pictures.

 

[zmotorsports]

Continuing on.


Just as I was ready to call it a night as the wife had arrived home, I thought I'd top off the coolant level which was just at the low mark. I then noticed I didn't see any washer fluid present at the lower reservoir so I grabbed my gallon of washer fluid and as I poured some it, it ran out onto my shop floor. Upon a little closer inspection, I saw an O-ring that was dislodged and that was where the fluid was ******* out of.


Someone has obviously been here before as the O-ring was much too large for the tube and the reservoir.


I dug through my supply and found one that would work, applied a little Sil-Glyde and reinstalled the filler neck.


That's much better.


Grabbed a mirror to look around the back side to make sure I didn't tear or fold over the new O-ring and everything looked as it should.



Filled the reservoir again and this time the washer fluid stayed in the reservoir.


Next, all I have to do is service the front and rear differentials and the transmission and it is ready for the owners to pick up. I'm trying to get this done as they are leaving on vacation on Saturday so I thought I'd try to have it back to them prior to them leaving.


Thank for following along.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I've got to give you credit for working on the Subie.
I now have 3 in my fleet and they are different for sure.
How viscous is the assembly lube you were using? Could it be put into something like a Zoom-spout oil container to apply it with a fine tip nozzle to keep it where you want it?

 

[madison069]

When you drain the transmission, can you measure the amount that drained out and then measure how much went back in? Just curious whats the difference and do you know if the transmission has ever been serviced?

 

[madison069]

I've got to give you credit for working on the Subie.
I now have 3 in my fleet and they are different for sure.
How viscous is the assembly lube you were using? Could it be put into something like a Zoom-spout oil container to apply it with a fine tip nozzle to keep it where you want it?

The assembly lube I have is like warm grease consistency and is squeezed out of a bottle with a little spout nozzle that you flip up to open. I believe it’s one of the big name camshaft maker lube, but I would have to check. I think the flip up spout is 1/8” diameter.

 

[madison069]

I should go back and read post more often, you mentioned it has never been serviced so I’m curious if it’s low and if any leaks were found.
Mine had no leaks but was a quart low, I suspect it was low from the factory.

 

[Mark_17]

I'd add Hondabond to your list of RTVs to try. Its the only thing I've seen work on SBC oil leaks

 

[zmotorsports]

I've got to give you credit for working on the Subie.
I now have 3 in my fleet and they are different for sure.
How viscous is the assembly lube you were using? Could it be put into something like a Zoom-spout oil container to apply it with a fine tip nozzle to keep it where you want it?

Thanks. The Driven HVL's consistency is somewhere between regular 30w motor oil and Lubriplate. It will stay put for a bit before dripping off, but even then it leaves a slight film. Nowhere in the literature or any other information states to do that so it might be a bit controversial, but I just couldn't bring myself to put it back together with dry cam lobes.

When you drain the transmission, can you measure the amount that drained out and then measure how much went back in? Just curious whats the difference and do you know if the transmission has ever been serviced?

I can do that if you'd like. The last Subaru CVT I serviced if memory serves is that I ended up putting back just under 5 qts. I remember my son bought 6 qts. but I don't think we used the last quart. The FSM states to check at between 95 and 113 degrees F, so I will drain and measure, then put fluid in until it comes out the fill port and then bring to temperature and see how much more it will take. You also want to be sure to go through the shift pattern upon starting to ensure the circuits are charged with fluid. Even though this is a CVT transmission, it still has a valve body and circuits which need to be filled with fluid.

 

[zmotorsports]

I should go back and read post more often, you mentioned it has never been serviced so I’m curious if it’s low and if any leaks were found.
Mine had no leaks but was a quart low, I suspect it was low from the factory.

No it has not been serviced as the owner purchased it nearly new and brought it to their marriage. I was then asked to zero it out recently after they were married as he wants to keep it for a while and knew it had to be getting close for some routine maintenance. When the oil leak became evident, they took it to a shop, the girls dad looked at it and neither could determine the exact source of the leak so that is when I was contacted. There were no leaks from the transmission or anywhere else in the powertrain thus far.

I'd add Hondabond to your list of RTVs to try. Its the only thing I've seen work on SBC oil leaks

I've used it in the past and it appears to be nearly identical to the GM Engine Sealant. I have also used Yamabond and one made by Threebond (1184 I think) that also appear and perform nearly identical to the GM Engine Sealant. I used the Threebond 1184 and 1104 exclusively when I was building hi-po 2-stroke and 4-stroke powersports engines. I'm just a GM guy, so I stick to the GM sealant these days, just frustrates me I can't get it locally and now even Summit Racing won't ship to me zip code, which is why I purchase it when we travel out of our area.

 

[madison069]

I can do that if you'd like. The last Subaru CVT I serviced if memory serves is that I ended up putting back just under 5 qts. I remember my son bought 6 qts. but I don't think we used the last quart. The FSM states to check at between 95 and 113 degrees F, so I will drain and measure, then put fluid in until it comes out the fill port and then bring to temperature and see how much more it will take. You also want to be sure to go through the shift pattern upon starting to ensure the circuits are charged with fluid. Even though this is a CVT transmission, it still has a valve body and circuits which need to be filled with fluid.

I agree, the drain and fill of the cvt is why I now have a scan gauge 2 installed on my forester dash to monitor engine and transmission temperature. When I drained mine, I got 4 quarts out and when I filled it back up I ended up putting 5 quarts back to finally get it to trickle out of the port.. Laying under the car while engine was running and checking the temp as I was filling the cvt with an over size syringe basically was fun, .

 

[zmotorsports]

I agree, the drain and fill of the cvt is why I now have a scan gauge 2 installed on my forester dash to monitor engine and transmission temperature. When I drained mine, I got 4 quarts out and when I filled it back up I ended up putting 5 quarts back to finally get it to trickle out of the port.. Laying under the car while engine was running and checking the temp as I was filling the cvt with an over size syringe basically was fun, .

Yeah, another great idea was to remove the dipsticks from transmissions.

I actually added a traditional dipstick to the 6L80 in my Camaro when I serviced it the first time after taking ownership.

 

[ScepterToad]

Mike do you have some sort of program or subscription for your FSM's? You work on a whole variety of stuff and it's obvious you follow the FSM for most if not all work you do. Reason I ask is, I managed to get a download of a PDF for the FSM for my generator engine, but I had to dig through the internets to find it and the version I got has the multiple languages in that makes it hard for me to read. I'm currently in the process of removing all the pages in the electronic version I have to pair it down to a manageable manual. I also don't have an FSM for the Jeep, which I'd like to have. Seems like it's a dealer only item at this point (from what I can find).

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike do you have some sort of program or subscription for your FSM's? You work on a whole variety of stuff and it's obvious you follow the FSM for most if not all work you do. Reason I ask is, I managed to get a download of a PDF for the FSM for my generator engine, but I had to dig through the internets to find it and the version I got has the multiple languages in that makes it hard for me to read. I'm currently in the process of removing all the pages in the electronic version I have to pair it down to a manageable manual. I also don't have an FSM for the Jeep, which I'd like to have. Seems like it's a dealer only item at this point (from what I can find).

Keith, for my personal vehicles I have the paperback/book style of Factory Service Manuals, with the exception of my Jeep which is not available, but I have a generic that is so-so.

For vehicles I work on I can "usually", emphasis on usually, find the information with a little hunting on the internet. Forums are great for having this information available for such things as fluid capacities and torque specs. When it comes time that I require more detailed information, I utilize AlldataDIY and pass the charge onto the job. Especially for things like wiring schematics as they are very specific and often times hard to find exactly what I'm looking for. I really like Alldata as it is about as close to actual factory data as you'll find.

 

[signcrafter]

Mike do you have some sort of program or subscription for your FSM's? You work on a whole variety of stuff and it's obvious you follow the FSM for most if not all work you do. Reason I ask is, I managed to get a download of a PDF for the FSM for my generator engine, but I had to dig through the internets to find it and the version I got has the multiple languages in that makes it hard for me to read. I'm currently in the process of removing all the pages in the electronic version I have to pair it down to a manageable manual. I also don't have an FSM for the Jeep, which I'd like to have. Seems like it's a dealer only item at this point (from what I can find).

I access service info online for free through the library. In Iowa I needed to have a library card and log in each time. In Wisconsin I just go to the libraries website and under digital resources they offer chilton service info. Which from what I can tell is pretty close or the same as factory info. You can tell each manufacturer is written different so I'm guessing it comes from the factory info some way. I don't have to log in or have a library account. It lists all the WI libraries but there is on option for "enter zip code below" and I just type in my zip and access the info. It has service info, labor times, TSBs, and all that stuff. I use it pretty much everyday to skim the repair info before I start a repair to see if there is anything that may pop up or something special. Use the labor times if I'm working on someone else's vehicle. Use wiring diagrams all the time and they seem to be accurate from what I've come across. I'm pretty sure most libraries offer this and it's a really valuable free resource.

 

[zmotorsports]

I access service info online for free through the library. In Iowa I needed to have a library card and log in each time. In Wisconsin I just go to the libraries website and under digital resources they offer chilton service info. Which from what I can tell is pretty close or the same as factory info. You can tell each manufacturer is written different so I'm guessing it comes from the factory info some way. I don't have to log in or have a library account. It lists all the WI libraries but there is on option for "enter zip code below" and I just type in my zip and access the info. It has service info, labor times, TSBs, and all that stuff. I use it pretty much everyday to skim the repair info before I start a repair to see if there is anything that may pop up or something special. Use the labor times if I'm working on someone else's vehicle. Use wiring diagrams all the time and they seem to be accurate from what I've come across. I'm pretty sure most libraries offer this and it's a really valuable free resource.

Good to know about the library Scott, thanks.

The DIY version of Alldata doesn't have labor times, but I use NAPAProLink when doing quotes as it puts everything onto a quote, including parts prices (includes markup that can be changed, not what I pay) and then any shop fees or "extras" as another option.

 

[signcrafter]

Good to know about the library Scott, thanks.

The DIY version of Alldata doesn't have labor times, but I use NAPAProLink when doing quotes as it puts everything onto a quote, including parts prices (includes markup that can be changed, not what I pay) and then any shop fees or "extras" as another option.

I try to spread the word about the service data at libraries as much as possible because I don't think a lot of people know about it. And we're all paying for it to be there anyway so might as well use it.

I use prolink also and it's nice for throwing estimates together. I have found their labor times can be difficult to navigate sometimes and they seem to have a limited selection of repairs. They have the basic common stuff but there have been a lot of things I couldn't get labor times for on their. I also don't think I like their new version that they updated a while ago and finally forced me to switch to within the last year. Maybe I just need to get used to it and use it more. But I do usually put estimates together using it and import numbers from other places if needed for labor times and parts prices if I'm not getting them at napa.

Prolink also has a form of mitchell pro demand and I haven't used it in a longtime but it had somethings like torque specs and limited service info. It also has service intervals for vehicles and also fluid type and capacities, I use this info all the time. And exhaust diagrams that come in handy to get part numbers for things like gaskets and what not. Another thing I found was the prolink parts search can be hit or miss sometimes. Many times I couldn't find what I was looking for on the prolink site, not using the exact search words or something. I would open a new tab and go to napaonline.com, search using the same words and find exactly what I needed and get the part number to be able to go back to prolink to search part number to find what I needed. I also use rockauto a lot to look up parts and then use the prolink part interchange to find stuff on napa's site.

 

[larry4406]

Who would have thought that libraries in this day and age have information.....