Clean cut

[bluedog225]

I need to cut these square tubes clean and square. 4” x 4” x 1/8”. They will be posts for a solar array.

Ten posts at 10’ and ten at 5’.

I don’t have much other need for cutting steel. Do I need to just buy medium quality band saw or chop saw and be done with it?

I can try it with my sawzall, but I think it’s going to wander off. And I’ve got a Milwaukee metal cutting saw. But it’s not got the depth to handle 4 inches. I can try flipping the square tubing over and matching up the cuts. I’d like to avoid ratty looking ends.

I wonder if those little 4 x 4 caps they sell at Home Depot will fit on this heavier galvanized square tubing? That would hide a sawzall cut.

Any thought or ideas welcome.

Thanks

 

[whateg01]

For clean, straight cuts, I would use a butter knife before a sawzall! Your saw will do it. Yes, flip the tube. Use a fence clamped to the work. Or buy a used bandsaw. You'll be able to resell it and get your money back unless you over pay.

Or take it to a shop. I doubt they would charge much. Downside is they might not put much care into it like you would.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Table saw with a ferrous metal blade

 

[whateg01]

Table saw with a ferrous metal blade

I can't imagine cross cutting a 10' long piece of steel on a tablesaw. But if you're gonna, at least use a black and Decker cutoff wheel!

 

[finn]

Abrasive cutoff wheel/saw.

They were popular twenty five years and pop up usd frequently for not much money.. I think the discs are 14”, so there should be enough throat.

 

[drmarkr]

$150 on sale, ITC. I've had the lowly Chicago Electric cheapo model for 20 years and it's still running fine.

You'll find other uses if/once you have it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-amp-43-hp-14-in-abrasive-cut-off-saw-56790.html

 

[BobnCO]

14" carbide tooth cut off saw; I have evolution, you'll never go back!

 

[esben57]

In the time spent thinking about it, going and buying a power tool and setting up I'd have done half the cuts in that section with a hacksaw.

I have evolution, you'll never go back!

I bought 3 Evolution saws, Jig, circular and mitre, all garbage.

 

[carlaisle]

A sharpie, square, and angle grinder with appropriate cut off wheel will make quick work of that.

 

[whateg01]

In the time spent thinking about it, going and buying a power tool and setting up I'd have done half the cuts in that section with a hacksaw.

I bought 3 Evolution saws, Jig, circular and mitre, all garbage.

that's weird. I have an evolution chop saw and it works great!

 

[CraigStu]

A sharpie, square, and angle grinder with appropriate cut off wheel will make quick work of that.

I agree. Last summer I bought a toothed side bucket for my mini-excavator. But the tooth closest to the hinge point kept the thumb from closing fully. Checked renting an oxy acetylene torch and a plasma cutter and both were crazy expensive for 15 minutes of work. So I bought this;
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-4-1-2-in-6-Amp-Sliding-Switch-Corded-Angle-Grinder/1002693722
This was a step or 2 up from the very bottom pricewise. Bought a couple of the 1/16" cutoff discs. This was a pair of about a 5" long cuts in 1/2" steel. I was blown away that it was under 5 minutes per cut.

 

[jack stand]

Me too!^^^^
Although it's not seeing commercial (weekly) use either, just like my Evo mag drill.

 

[PCustoms]

Threads like this make me wonder if anyone here actually uses tools anymore.

The Milwaukee and a speed square/clamped guide will have this done very quickly and very accurately if even a bit of care is used.

 

[Racer_X]

The Milwaukee and a speed square/clamped guide will have this done very quickly and very accurately if even a bit of care is used.

So would a plasma cutter with a guide fence.

 

[PCustoms]

So would a plasma cutter with a guide fence.

So would a CNC laser tube cutter


But I believe the OP already has a Milwaukee metal saw

 

[larry4406]

.... I’ve got a Milwaukee metal cutting saw. But it’s not got the depth to handle 4 inches. I can try flipping the square tubing over and matching up the cuts. I’d like to avoid ratty looking ends.

I would be inclined to use what you have and then touch up grind as needed.

You can clamp a speed square to the tube stock and use that as your guide. Yes you will have to rotate the tube as its 4" while your saw is likely 3.5-3.75" max cut.

For 20 posts total, I would use what I have.

 

[bluedog225]

Having slept on it, I’ll probably want to place these first than cut them all to the same height. I’m thinking a handheld band saw might be best.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Having sleep on it, I’ll probably want to place these first than cut them all to the same height. I’m thinking a handheld band saw might be best.

Probably not a bad idea.


Cutting before installing, I would use the horizontal band saw. Probably one of my best $118 investments.

 

[larry4406]

I think cutting an installed vertical post with a handheld band saw and expecting a square cut end is sure to end badly.

I would build an external tube jig that clamps tight to the post exterior so you can use it as a guide for your miter-saw like metal saw.

 

[CJM8515]

angle grinder with a guide of some kind clamped on will do the job. how precise do they really need to be?

 

[larry4406]

angle grinder with a guide of some kind clamped on will do the job. how precise do they really need to be?

to quote the OP "I’d like to avoid ratty looking ends.".....

 

[PCustoms]

to quote the OP "I’d like to avoid ratty looking ends.".....

Bandsaw/sawzall (or whatever) and then grind smooth to the line if needed.

It's all irrelevant, as the end should be hit with cold galvanizing spray and capped anyway, which would hide slight irregularities.

This forum struggles with mental ************ over tasks rather then just being practical and getting it done.

 

[mm08822]

I would rough cut the verticals and align them all with lumber and lumber jigs to maintain centers and approximate height. Square tubing also has the challenge of keeping the face in the same plane.

Place the set of posts into holes as an assembly, plumb, set height, pour. Strip the lumber after concrete set.

Shoot a level line on them and mark with square and fine-line marker. Trim with 4" grinder and cut-off wheel.

Anything else is like trying to space marshmallows in hot chocolate.

 

[CJM8515]

to quote the OP "I’d like to avoid ratty looking ends.".....

no matter what OP cuts it with its gonna need to be filed down

 

[tarmy]

This…take your pick…

 

[bluedog225]

I would rough cut the verticals and align them all with lumber and lumber jigs to maintain centers and approximate height. Square tubing also has the challenge of keeping the face in the same plane.

Place the set of posts into holes as an assembly, plumb, set height, pour. Strip the lumber after concrete set.

Shoot a level line on them and mark with square and fine-line marker. Trim with 4" grinder and cut-off wheel.

Anything else is like trying to space marshmallows in hot chocolate.

I think this is the way to go. It’s going to take a lot of lumber unfortunately. I really don’t want to mix all this concrete one hole at a time.

 

[Farmall450]

A sharpie, square, and angle grinder with appropriate cut off wheel will make quick work of that.

This, unless you want to buy a portaband, chop saw, or band saw.

Too bad you're in TX, I just grabbed this Kalamazoo 7x10

 

[mm08822]

I think this is the way to go. It’s going to take a lot of lumber unfortunately. I really don’t want to mix all this concrete one hole at a time.

Most of the lumber can be reused. Pouring all at once, makes for the most amount of lumber needed.
I would rather own the lumber (for another project) than pay for a few short loads and get nothing out of that extra cost.

Screw the lumber together and let longer lengths overhang to maximize its reuse.

 

[mm08822]

Seal the tops of cut posts so water doesn't get in. (Weld cap plates on)

May want to pour enamel paint inside for some rust protection before assembly. Roll the tubing to distribute the paint inside.
Or get 6" pvc with end cap, fill with paint , dip tubes, let dry.

Drip a weep hole at base tube.

Try and force tube into soil so the bottom can drain before pouring.

 

[Farmall450]

This…take your pick…

Where's the torch and plasma?

 

[bluedog225]

Seal the tops of cut posts so water doesn't get in. (Weld cap plates on)

May want to pour enamel paint inside for some rust protection before assembly. Roll the tubing to distribute the paint inside.
Or get 6" pvc with end cap, fill with paint , dip tubes, let dry.

Drip a weep hole at base tube.

Try and force tube into soil so the bottom can drain before pouring.

Good points. Particularly the drainage. I got hot dipped tubing. And corrosion is very slow here.

 

[bluedog225]

Can somebody tell me how short loads of concrete work? I’ve got a mixing plant probably half mile away. I wonder if I can drop by there and make a deal with them? Rather than going through the corporate office.

 

[BurtEggley]

assuming they are all the same length, how do you plan to set them all to the same identical height when installing? In other words, what good is it to cut them all to the same exact length within a few thousands of an inch when the height may be off on how they are set by much more? I've watched many fabricators use a cut off wheel to cut tubing. Mark carefully with sharpie and cut with cutoff wheel.

I doubt if employees there at the concrete plant are going to risk their jobs and honor by taking cash under the table. Someone has to write up the order. For small amounts of concrete, I use bags mixed in the wheel barrow. For large jobs - walls, sidewalks, patios etc., I order it and have a crew on hand when it arrives. The truck isn't waiting for one guy to offload at a snail's pace.

 

[larry_g]

I'm assuming that you have 20' sticks? For the 10' posts you cut the 20 in half and bury the cut end leaving the factory end up. Cut your 5 footers last and by then you should have perfected your cutting technique and only have two cut ends that have to be on the up side. Pick the best two cuts to put up.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Junkman]

Use the factory cut at the top of the post, and your cut, even if not straight, can be in the ground where no one will ever see it.

 

[JuncleJohn]

I bought a Klutch portable bandsaw from Northern Tool last year for about $150. It’s been good enough for my home shop.

John

 

[bluedog225]

36’ and 38’ lengths

 

[bluedog225]

assuming they are all the same length, how do you plan to set them all to the same identical height when installing? In other words, what good is it to cut them all to the same exact length within a few thousands of an inch when the height may be off on how they are set by much more? I've watched many fabricators use a cut off wheel to cut tubing. Mark carefully with sharpie and cut with cutoff wheel.

I doubt if employees there at the concrete plant are going to risk their jobs and honor by taking cash under the table. Someone has to write up the order. For small amounts of concrete, I use bags mixed in the wheel barrow. For large jobs - walls, sidewalks, patios etc., I order it and have a crew on hand when it arrives. The truck isn't waiting for one guy to offload at a snail's pace.

Yeah. I was half thinking that these guys might come back to the plant with unused partial loads. And it might be a disposal issue for the plant operator.

 

[larry4406]

Lot of the concrete plants here return with the partial load balance that was bought by the contractor. No credit given for any excess.

The plants then cast Jersey barriers out of the “free” returned mix then sell the barriers.

 

[Junkman]

Around here, they cast the concrete into interlocking blocks that they use to build retaining walls on the highways.