Naked or stained?

[TheClaw]

I realize this is largely personal preference. I'm torn between staining new workbench or just coating it with Laquer. The top is going over double Husky black 46" boxes with a 2x4 frame around it.

I've surfed many of the threads to get ideas and thought I'd hit you all up for your opinion (yes, I know what I'm in for).

Naked lacquer versus stain (color is called Gunstock by Minwax)

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Absolutely whatever floats your boat! Factors to consider - color scheme of shop, show shop or working space, future maintenance. Most workbenches are only going to look pristine once in their life.

 

[PCustoms]

I just use whatever shade the cheapest plywood is that day...

Had an OSB bench for 12yrs. When I drip glue and paint and **** on it I run a D/A sander over it and start over

Function over beauty.

 

[twinfin]

How about boiled linseed oil? It’s got some give to it compared to lacquer and is easy to touch up scrapes and scuffs. I used butcher block for my shop work bench and the linseed oil has been holding up nicely. It will add a slightly amber appearance to the wood.

 

[MushCreek]

I don't like a dark colored bench for finding small parts. Most natural finishes will darken over time anyway.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

Another vote for linseed oil. It does not chip or peal, it's cheap, it's easy, it lasts forever, and it looks better every year.

 

[cgrutt]

I'd recommend BLO as well just be careful with any rags afterwards.

 

[Notgrownup]

I like linseed oil as well. It is what i used on my maple butcher block top.

 

[tarbellb]

I missed the part where you e mentioned what species or type of wood???

Pine or Fir, stained always looks the same- hope you like tiger stripes

Oak or Maple, almost a sin to stain

Give some more context, let's admire the workpiece

 

[CraigStu]

The problem w/ stain plus a clear is fixing chips later. The clear soaks in so if you sand through the stain that spot will not take more stain the same as the original bare wood did. So I vote for a clear. I'd probably go w/ Minwax spar varnish because I have used it a lot over the years.

 

[txvwnut]

Minwax Gunstock, if you have never applied it has an orange tint over a light colored wood. For a work bench top that's most likely going to get beat up just hit with BLO and move on. Plus as others have stated it's much easier to see small parts and stuff on the lighter color than it is the darker color.

 

[TheClaw]

Ok, you guys are starting to convince me to go the BLO route. @MushCreek, you have a good point. Loosing nuts and bolts is common in my shop, that's why I put single stage, light gray, no flakes in my floor.

For @tarbellb, here's progess picture. I'm building a frame around the boxes.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

As an aside - I like to finish any wood framed benches/carts with a poly to SEAL the wood from moisture/mold. DAMHIKT!

Jim

 

[twinfin]

Ok, you guys are starting to convince me to go the BLO route. @MushCreek, you have a good point. Loosing nuts and bolts is common in my shop, that's why I put single stage, light gray, no flakes in my floor.

For @tarbellb, here's progess picture. I'm building a frame around the boxes.

So, if going the linseed oil route, watch a couple videos and or read up on tips before you begin. In my experience, I thin the boiled linseed oil up to 50/50 with paint thinner to help that first coat soak into the wood. About 15 minutes after applying, wipe off any excess then give it at least 24 hours to dry, maybe more depending on conditions.

Do a very light sanding after the first coat has a day or two to dry as there will be a some wood fibers that stand up after the first coat. For the second coat, you can apply undiluted but be sure to wipe down excess about 15 minutes after applying and give it plenty of time to dry between coats.

Boiled linseed oil can take a few days to dry between coats; more or less depending on conditions but the end result is always worth the time it takes. I should note that the first coating cut 50/50 with paint thinner will dry faster because of the paint thinner so don’t be surprised when subsequent, undiluted coats take longer.

I’m not an expert by any means but I can’t think of a better coating for a wood surface that’s prone to abuse. you’ve got a nice looking shop coming together and I think you’ll be happy with boiled linseed oil on your bench top.

 

[cgrutt]

If temp is an issue look into Japan Dryer will accelerate time needed.

 

[Danno1]

.

TwinFin post # 14 is what I do. Looks good and easy to fix if it gets damaged.

.

 

[Bert_]

Rub some oily, greasy parts around and it will take on a natural color pretty quick.

 

[LopezBart]

Turpentine will work well to thin the BLO and imho smells better; I use BLO, pine tar, turps, and a bit of japan drier on my smaller steamboat (foreground below). I also used this on my black powder pistol's stock. The big advantage is that one can easily renew the finish w/o removing the old stuff, unlike varnish, paint, etc. It is time for more finish in this picture....

 

[Notgrownup]

I may have used danish oil.now that I think of it

 

[Eric David Bru]

I stain my wood work surfaces with black, oil based stain and no clear.

EDB

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/interior-paint-stain/interior-stain/oil-based-stain/minwax-reg-wood-finish-trade-interior-oil-based-wood-stain/700514444/p-1514446189034-c-7972.htm

 

[tarbellb]

What are you working with? Looks like Birch??
Good looking top, go clear

My personal favorites are the European Hardening waxes like Woca, Rubio, Bona

Boiled linseed combo is also a strong candidate, or even 1part floor finish like Pallmann or Loba

 

[Cruzan80]

I'd recommend BLO as well just be careful with any rags afterwards.

+1000! If using BLO, make sure you know how to dispose of the rags safely!

Not saying you don't, but easy to overlook if you haven't used stuff like this before.

 

[TheClaw]

First coat. 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits.

Should have used a dark wood for the trim. Next one.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

Put a few bumpers on the back so it does not tear up your wall

 

[Cruzan80]

Are the two chests not straight, or just an illusion from the pic?

 

[twinfin]

Very nice! You made a good choice.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

Are the two chests not straight, or just an illusion from the pic?

I think he pulled them out to oil the top

 

[TheClaw]

I think he pulled them out to oil the top

Yup. Things are still fluid in the new shop. I'm not going to nail anything down before I have to so I get the layout close to where I want it.

 

[TheClaw]

Very nice! You made a good choice.

Many Thanks

Appreciate all of the input.

 

[Cruzan80]

Yup. Things are still fluid in the new shop. I'm not going to nail anything down before I have to so I get the layout close to where I want it.

It occured to me after I posted that it may been propped on the chest, as opposed to rigidly attached. The question came because I thought it was fastened already. Not enough sleep...

 

[Jackfre]

Christopher Schwarz’s “The Workbench Book“ suggests, and having used it I suggest it too, a mixture of thirds of BLO, DNA & Spar Varnish. Dried quickly and easy to reapply. I like Gunstock for a stain color but prefer a bright bench top.

 

[Smilodon]

Turpentine will work well to thin the BLO and imho smells better; I use BLO, pine tar, turps, and a bit of japan drier on my smaller steamboat (foreground below). I also used this on my black powder pistol's stock. The big advantage is that one can easily renew the finish w/o removing the old stuff, unlike varnish, paint, etc. It is time for more finish in this picture....

Mortar launchers for duck hunting is legal where you come from?

Seriously. Cool old boats. Not sure I'd feel comfortable being that close to a steam engine *I* had anything to do with *AND* on the water, but more power to 'em.

 

[LopezBart]

Seriously. Cool old boats. Not sure I'd feel comfortable being that close to a steam engine *I* had anything to do with *AND* on the water, but more power to 'em.

It's the steam motorcycles/bicycles that I'm dubious about .... but I might build a small one someday....

 

[CGT80]

The clear looks good and I did the same on some of mine. My new ones are mdf fornthe clean bench and osb where I grind and weld at a vise, for things that don't get done on the precision fabrication table. light gray paint looks good and can be applied again....they need it now, after a couple years of use.

Another cabinet I built is a tall bench with an oak plywood top and 9 drawers. It is stained red oak and has a high end lacquer clear. It holds add a bins and parts. Being chest height makes it nice for looking at smaller parts. It doesn't get beat up so it still looks good for a garage bench.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Are the two chests not straight, or just an illusion from the pic?

It's the coriolis effect.

 

[TheClaw]

I'm letting the BLO cure this week. Any downsides to a few coats of clear lacquer (with the exception of the ability to repair a small area now and then)?

 

[cgrutt]

I'd just leave it alone for a workbench. Not sure if you will have any adhesion issues with lacquer may want to look into an oil based product such as polyurethane or varnish. That BLO will likely need a few weeks before fully curing. Wax also works over BLO.

 

[TheClaw]

All i need to do now is put a sealer/protective coat on the top. I'm going to drip and leak a lot of fluids and solvents on this thing.

 

[DaveAndStuff]

Wow, that looks great! Get a roll of cardboard to top it.

 

[TheClaw]

Wow, that looks great! Get a roll of cardboard to top it.

Thanks! I put some hardboard on my old butcher block workbench because the top looked so nice. With the hardboard there I never saw the nice butcherblock. May as well use OSB.

I'm thinking I'll put some oil based poly on there to protect it and just give it a re-fresh every couple of years. Most of my work there is motorcycle and car related so there's going to be grease and oil.