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L.Cheapo

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Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,908
I'm a DIY guy, so I'll defer to pros if this is wrong, but I've seen some online videos and forum comments saying to save the "fancy" tools for installing the new one.

Seems like the best / fastest way to remove stuck ones is to just cut the wire off at the sensor and use normal impact sockets (with heat, etc. as needed, and of course be careful not to damage threads).

I'm sure there are instances that won't work, of course.

Mike
Problem with that is if you need to reuse the sensors. Some of them are pretty pricy.
 
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lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
I'm a DIY guy, so I'll defer to pros if this is wrong, but I've seen some online videos and forum comments saying to save the "fancy" tools for installing the new one.

Seems like the best / fastest way to remove stuck ones is to just cut the wire off at the sensor and use normal impact sockets (with heat, etc. as needed, and of course be careful not to damage threads).

I'm sure there are instances that won't work, of course.

Mike

I agree cutting the wires opens removal options for long handle box end wrenches and regular impact sockets. I have done that when having issues. BUT I am always hesitant to cut wires on the sensors in cases of problems where I might want to put back the old part temporarily. That becomes more involved if the wires are cut. Also the sensors assemblies are often extend pretty far above the hex base for a wrench -- even for "regular" deep impact sockets.

Putting the new O2 sensors in is usually not a problem. Thread torque specs are generally pretty modest and it only needs to seal a sensor and is not under much stress. So most anything works. But you need something crowfoot and/or a split O2 socket to torque if you want to do it to spec anyway (due to the wire) and the specialty sockets or crowfoot that you use for removal can also be used to torque without messing up the wire (disconnect of course).

O2 sensors just seem to get very stuck on due to corrosion. Even when they are installed using high temp anti-seize, it does not seem to help much. Over time, the area gets cooked and temp cycled a lot. Plus it picks up a lot of salt splash from the road if you are in the rust belt. That seems to be a recipe for becoming royally stuck over 5+ year sensor life.
 
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Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,657
Location
AZ
I'm a DIY guy, so I'll defer to pros if this is wrong, but I've seen some online videos and forum comments saying to save the "fancy" tools for installing the new one.

Seems like the best / fastest way to remove stuck ones is to just cut the wire off at the sensor and use normal impact sockets (with heat, etc. as needed, and of course be careful not to damage threads).

I'm sure there are instances that won't work, of course.

Mike
This^^^
Being in Michigan for many years I’ve changed more this way than any other method
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Knipex made in Taiwan…. Did I get a fake or something ? Bought from Amazon IMG_1410.jpegIMG_1411.jpeg

Nope, they're made in Taiwan, just like the Doyle that is exactly like it for $15 at HF! See the post by Ryan on the front page a week or two ago. Knipex makes 800 or so types of pliers at their factory in Germany, but some other little doodads, they do outsource.
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Those are very useful BUT don't stick those ear pieces into your ears, resting in the bit behind the earholes will do.
Not listening for heartbeats here. You'll soon learn what I mean.

Good tip! I hadn't thought of it. I can add this tip:

Be aware of a belt-driven cooling fan. You don't want to hear that hit the long aluminum probe.
 

Jarhead0408

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Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
5,734
Location
Who knows?
Thanks to enablers like @Jarhead0408 and @lilscorpion these came yesterday.

John, I wonder why they chose to broach square drive on one set 8 point on the other. I’ll keep the square drives on my truck and see how they do next week. Thanks bud.

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Anytime Cam, glad I could help.

Best I can figure is that the 8 points are designed for use with a breaker bar so it has some of the advantages that a ratchet and the 4 point set would have in terms of more angles. Also, it might minimize the risk of stripping out the gears on a ratchet if you use a breaker bar instead. Just spit balling here.

Looks like you forgot to describe the other tool, but looking in the box it looks like it is a chamfering tool? Is that right?
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,113
Location
AZ
Anytime Cam, glad I could help.

Best I can figure is that the 8 points are designed for use with a breaker bar so it has some of the advantages that a ratchet and the 4 point set would have in terms of more angles. Also, it might minimize the risk of stripping out the gears on a ratchet if you use a breaker bar instead. Just spit balling here.

Looks like you forgot to describe the other tool, but looking in the box it looks like it is a chamfering tool? Is that right?
I agree the 8 point was for a breaker bar, I lm just surprised they broach for both configurations. I’ll know how strong they are next week. I need to deal with a 600lb door operator issue and I’ve tried before with various pry bars with a **** angle. Going in 6” at a 90 degree angle should work out way better.

And ya, I was so impressed with the edge finish @lilscorpion was getting from his collection I got jealous and had to see for myself. I’m actually a little blown away at its construction, it’s a stout little bit piece for the $40 I paid.
 

KnurledNut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
8,124
Location
n/a
I thought I was done buying sockets for a while but I had to find out there were Matco 1/4 dual drive sockets from a thread here. Even the Matco dealer didn't know about them yet. This time Matco added a 4.5mm, 16mm and 17mm which the Astro version doesn't include. I will say if they come out with 1/2 drive, I won't be buying them as I can't fit them in my socket drawer unless Ernst comes out with a 4 rail socket boss tray....
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Diehard. 4-19mm no skips. Just saying.
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pfbz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
956
Sounds like a Youtuber with loads of unused duplicate tools problem. :dunno:
More a multiple tool user where every tool needs to earn its keep and where poorly designed or non interoperable ones have no place. YT has zero to do with it.

I almost never return tools, and I like lots of other Die Hard tools (their ratchets are really good, for example), but that kit fell seriously short in my view. Why they designed it differently than every other dual-drive 1/4" setup out there is beyond me.
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Problem with that is if you need to reuse the sensors. Some of them are pretty pricy.

If you have patience, I've had good luck fitting the wiring connector at the end of an 02 sensor's wire through the box end wrench. Well, a 12 pt. box end. If you really need a 6 pt. impact socket on it, this is of no help, but if you're taking it off with a 12 pt. box, you can preserve the writing just in case.
 
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Squankum

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Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,699
Location
Southeast
Some new stuff.

For my "road bag", which I haven't used by the side of the road, but when I am away from home and tending to cars of the fleet that wind up clustering in a distant land, in parking lots.

(Just one man's opinion, but "SOLAR" is a really dumb brand name when the product you're selling isn't actually powered by the sun's rays. This brand is also known for big boxes of voltage to run various devices you might have, that don't have solar panels, they just have a big battery inside them.)

I've had the simpler version of this impedance battery tester for several years now and have been happy with it, and the price came down on this one, so I snagged it. Plus, should have had it on my recent road trip.

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https://www.amazon.com/BA9-40-1200-Digital-Battery-System/dp/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=sr_1_1

Stopped at at large HF in a nearby city. Yet another Braun work light, because I love them. Full price, but in stock. Little electrician snips, $15, actually snagged four pair, these are gifts for friends. Made in Taiwan, just like the Knipeces.

Soapstone marker, "Chicago Electric" phoneybaloney in-house brand, one rectangular stone and holder, one round and holder, and one refill for each, $3.79! I didn't even know these things existed until about a week ago.

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nicks78camaro

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Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
1,530
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Some new stuff.

For my "road bag", which I haven't used by the side of the road, but when I am away from home and tending to cars of the fleet that wind up clustering in a distant land, in parking lots.

(Just one man's opinion, but "SOLAR" is a really dumb brand name when the product you're selling isn't actually powered by the sun's rays. This brand is also known for big boxes of voltage to run various devices you might have, that don't have solar panels, they just have a big battery inside them.)

I've had the simpler version of this impedance battery tester for several years now and have been happy with it, and the price came down on this one, so I snagged it. Plus, should have had it on my recent road trip.

IMG_8031.jpeg
https://www.amazon.com/BA9-40-1200-Digital-Battery-System/dp/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=sr_1_1

Stopped at at large HF in a nearby city. Yet another Braun work light, because I love them. Full price, but in stock. Little electrician snips, $15, actually snagged four pair, these are gifts for friends. Made in Taiwan, just like the Knipeces.

Soapstone marker, "Chicago Electric" phoneybaloney in-house brand, one rectangular stone and holder, one round and holder, and one refill for each, $.3.79! I didn't even know these things existed until about a week ago.

IMG_8033.jpeg


I agree those are super nice lights. Just bought another spare at the half off price.
 

willf650

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
803
Was it you who was recently asking about it for 1/2" holes?

Gotta let us know how it is.
I'm going to attempt to return this. In my opinion it's a no go for 1/2" in hard materials. Think old concrete or brick.

It will do it but it's pitiful compared to my 1" m18 to the point I drilled 2 holes with it and threw it in the truck before it got dirty.

It doesn't hit anywhere near hard enough.
 

cody1325

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2024
Messages
1,089
Location
Southwest Virginia
New, no. Used, by me maybe.

Found an SK screwdriver that looks suspiciously like mine at an antiques store I frequent. Didn't say a word (as I'm good friends with the owner and still not 100% sure it was mine) partly due to it only being a couple bucks, but I have a suspect (a guy who the owner of the antiques store regularly buys from, and who leases adjoining property--also a rusty ****** block I traded for a vise I never received from said individual was beside it) Also, shop's getting padlocked, even though most of my name brand stuff is now locked in the basement or my car's toolbox.

Every ding and dent looks like the one on mine, and there's also "H" scratched into the handle. Granddad always marked his stuff with "H", "Harry", or "HLS" by means of engraving or cold stamps. I rarely ever mark my stuff, typically it only has his or another prior owner's name engraved on it (though I think N&W RR is big enough to the point I should put something else on it...)

This was probably bought new in the '70s by Granddad. He was never much for cheap tools.

I mostly used this one as a prybar due to the size, but still--it wasn't in the drawer where it's kept.

It's also why I DO NOT loan tools out anymore, and empty out equipment toolboxes if someone say mows in the upper fields unless I 100% know that person well (and most of them are professionals with tools better than my own that also bring their own stuff).


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Steel_Rain

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2024
Messages
1,349
This is a stock photo, but I picked up one of these at Grainger's last week. Apex 1-inch bitset for $ cheap on closeout. (Via the **hot deals** thread).

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@Ohio Andy as well, you brought this up too.

I picked this up since I needed some parts for another project I could only find at Graingers:

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Meh.

Gives me 90's tool vibes, like I borrowed my Dad's stuff for an afternoon. Bits are poorly stamped, was hoping to see USA on the driver handle and adapter, but nope. The case feels cheap and the card insert looks like it was printed in 1987. The case latch is poorly made as well. The case doesn't say made in USA either.

I cannot believe someone would have really paid $120 retail for this...but It was made for a time that no longer exists and expectations are much higher these days for tools such as this.

If anyone can tell me for sure its 100% USA made, I'd give it a pass, but right now, I don't see the value, even @ $30 bucks.

 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,113
Location
AZ
@Ohio Andy as well, you brought this up too.

I picked this up since I needed some parts for another project I could only find at Graingers:

1774035217762.png
1774035250359.png
1774035276766.png
1774035311619.png
1774035339309.png

Meh.

Gives me 90's tool vibes, like I borrowed my Dad's stuff for an afternoon. Bits are poorly stamped, was hoping to see USA on the driver handle and adapter, but nope. The case feels cheap and the card insert looks like it was printed in 1987. The case latch is poorly made as well. The case doesn't say made in USA either.

I cannot believe someone would have really paid $120 retail for this...but It was made for a time that no longer exists and expectations are much higher these days for tools such as this.

If anyone can tell me for sure its 100% USA made, I'd give it a pass, but right now, I don't see the value, even @ $30 bucks.

I wouldn’t consider this an answer but I can say the blackish oxide finish of those bits looks to be exactly the same finish as several recent apex purchases. It kinda stands out from everyone else’s stuff.

And I’ve definitely put some of these bits through there paces in front of an impact gun and they’re hanging tuff.

But that kit certainly isn’t worth a buck twenty and I probably wouldn’t buy it at $30 either since I’m not a fan of that handle.
 

Steel_Rain

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2024
Messages
1,349
I can say the blackish oxide finish of those bits looks to be exactly the same finish as several recent apex purchases. It kinda stands out from everyone else’s stuff.

And I’ve definitely put some of these bits through there paces in front of an impact gun and they’re hanging tuff.

This is good to hear. I'll use these for a upcoming compressor overhaul and see how they do. They are stamped APEX on the bits (very lightly) but like I said, I don't see anything crazy impressive.

Makes me think these are just NoS, and that could be a good thing if it means high quality bits that nobody bought because of the MSRP.
 

zendriver

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
29,848
Location
Indiana
Maybe this was an impulse buy.

Was going to get grandson a HF PP click 1/2” torque wrench (like have used for years) but this was on sale, so now he gets my old one. This one is easier on my old eyes.

Only problem so far is the thing is so big, it does not fit in any tool drawers. I’ll have to muck out the top drawer that is the dumping ground for everything.

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L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,908
Darn you Astro with your quality tools at reasonable prices!


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Today I finally got around to the the project I bought this thing for.

Wow, what a win. If you ever need one of these, I'd recommend the Astro. I was actually surprised how well it worked. Not that I expected anything less from Astro, but the damn thing worked like magic! And I hadn't charged it since I bought it 3 months ago.
 

ChefRex

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Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
3,713
Location
NJ
Maybe this was an impulse buy.

Was going to get grandson a HF PP click 1/2” torque wrench (like have used for years) but this was on sale, so now he gets my old one. This one is easier on my old eyes.

Only problem so far is the thing is so big, it does not fit in any tool drawers. I’ll have to muck out the top drawer that is the dumping ground for everything.

IMG_2263.jpeg
You need to buy a bigger box, simple.
 

MWEric

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
607
Location
Wyoming, MN
I can’t remember if I posted these when I got them. But a bunch of Cementex tools are mine. I bought them from a yard sale. SAE and Metric wrench sets, SAE and Metric socket sets and drivers. The socket sets both have ratchets, one is currently at work. I’m not necessarily selling them but I don’t work on live circuits. So, if any one here needs these shoot me a PMIMG_9910.jpegIMG_9911.jpegIMG_9912.jpegIMG_9913.jpeg
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Mac Truck Wednesday! No more using needle nose pliers to remove o-rings.

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I have a set of similar ones, Mayhew Brand, that I paid $25 for. Handles are a little different. They are pretty good for seals and also using as small corner scrapers when you want less aggressive edges to reduce risk of gouging.

I bought them from Mayhew thinking they would be USA made but they are also from Taiwan -- probably the same factory. Other brands are likely again similar, Taiwanese, and likely cheaper still. I like supporting USA production, but not paying 2x more for USA branding labels on the same thing from Taiwan. We have enough office paper pushers (and I say this as a theorist working in science).

You will probably find these useful regardless of brand or country of origin.
 
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