Hard wired heater and thermostat

[Dusten]

I am finding a ton of threads but in my old age and slight retardation not finding what I want.

I have this heater

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Ouellet-Oasu10000T-240V-1Ph-Htr-Thmst/6146882?srsltid=AfmBOoqk_WVYAZPvOhIUeHduj7dsxpuiL9qpyVDlq63BFhnTta7C1K5A

It is wired directly to my panel.




The heater has a built in thermostat of sorts that's basically a dial 1-5. But a) it is way to high to reach and b) the only way to stop it completely is kill the breakers.


I'd like a thermostat down by the panel that I can dial in a temp and shut off wirelessly.


From what I can gather I need a transformer to step the power down, a thermostat and a contactor that cycles power.


And I missing anything?


Any thoughts on how to wire it?

 

[Sumboodie]

Line voltage t stat

 

[The Cobbler]

he's pulling about 40 amps . is there s stat that can handle that amperage/

 

[Dusten]

he's pulling about 40 amps . is there s stat that can handle that amperage/

Nope. Pretty much anything above 25 needs a relay/contactor

 

[PoorUB]

I'd like a thermostat down by the panel that I can dial in a temp and shut off wirelessly.


From what I can gather I need a transformer to step the power down, a thermostat and a contactor that cycles power.


And I missing anything?


Any thoughts on how to wire it?

I would like to see a wiring diagram for the heater. There might be something that can be wired into the control side and use a 24 volt thermostat, or even a line voltage thermostat that just needs to handle a amp or two on the control side.

Is there a wiring diagram in the unit or an manual that came with the unit you can share?

 

[Dusten]

I would like to see a wiring diagram for the heater. There might be something that can be wired into the control side and use a 24 volt thermostat, or even a line voltage thermostat that just needs to handle a amp or two on the control side.

Is there a wiring diagram in the unit or an manual that came with the unit you can share?

Not a manual, as I bought the house with it installed. I can crawl up there look for a wiring diagram maybe tomorrow.

But according the heater manufacturers paperwork there is a control block I can wire a thermostat into and no external relay is needed.

If it’s 24V control
Use standard HVAC thermostat
Wire directly to T1/T2
Don’t put a thermostat inline with L1/L2
You control it through the control terminals only

 

[Dusten]

I would like to see a wiring diagram for the heater. There might be something that can be wired into the control side and use a 24 volt thermostat, or even a line voltage thermostat that just needs to handle a amp or two on the control side.

Is there a wiring diagram in the unit or an manual that came with the unit you can share?

From the unit

I should be able to interrupt t1 with a 24v tstat and be ok.

 

[PoorUB]

From the unit

I should be able to interrupt t1 with a 24v tstat and be ok.

T1 to T2 is line voltage 208 volt by the looks of it. You will need a line valtage thermostat, ir a relay, transformer and a 24 V thermostat.
This and the 24V thermostat of your choice will work. https://www.amazon.com/AC208-240V-S...rmer-OONO/dp/B0CM99X1TL/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Dusten]

T1 to T2 is line voltage 208 volt by the looks of it. You will need a line valtage thermostat, ir a relay, transformer and a 24 V thermostat.
This and the 24V thermostat of your choice will work. https://www.amazon.com/AC208-240V-S...rmer-OONO/dp/B0CM99X1TL/?tag=atomicindus08-20

T1 and t2 are line voltage in, but go through a transformer according to the drawing and are outputting 24v.

 

[mm08822]

That schematic is for a 3 phase unit. I find hard to believe mfr put the wrong one in it.

Im thinking someone field modified this.

Need pics of the upper hardware cut off in the Pic. There may not be any transformer.

The black tstat in lower right of Pic is your tstat. Those 2 wires to it are what needs to be interrupted with an external tstat.

External tstat needs to be 240v. 15/20a rating would be sufficient. (assuming no xformer present.) Measure the voltage across the 2 tstat terminals when unit is not running.

 

[Dusten]

the product literature states they can be converted from 3 to 1 phase.

 

[Dusten]

That schematic is for a 3 phase unit. I find hard to believe mfr put the wrong one in it.

Im thinking someone field modified this.

Need pics of the upper hardware cut off in the Pic. There may not be any transformer.

The black tstat in lower right of Pic is your tstat. Those 2 wires to it are what needs to be interrupted with an external tstat.

External tstat needs to be 240v. 15/20a rating would be sufficient. (assuming no xformer present.) Measure the voltage across the 2 tstat terminals when unit is not running.

ITs weird because the factory literature states it has a 24v relay, and that an external thermostat is to be connected to the heater control terminal block.

I'll crawl up there again and get a better picture and some power readings.

 

[Bert_]

Looks like there is a contactor but no transformer that I see. The contactor handles the heavy current. You still need a 240v stat, but it only has to power the contactor coil less than an amp. A regular 22A rated line voltage stat will be the easiest choice.

 

[PoorUB]

T1 and t2 are line voltage in, but go through a transformer according to the drawing and are outputting 24v.

That is not what I see!

 

[BurtEggley]

>>> the manufacturer appears to already have approved package solutions to do what you want, other than maybe the wifi features. Call their tech support with your model number, serial number and tell them it is wired for single phase. Ask them for a solution or a referral to someone who installs those features.

 

[Dusten]

>>> the manufacturer appears to already have approved package solutions to do what you want, other than maybe the wifi features. Call their tech support with your model number, serial number and tell them it is wired for single phase. Ask them for a solution or a referral to someone who installs those features.

My concern there is that they don't sell this anymore.

That is not what I see!

Ya the drawing shows it, but it's now how it's installed. Bummer. Thought I had an easy out.

 

[mm08822]

This is what you have for the tstat circuit. (I didn't trace out the rest, but know it's not 3 phase.)




It's a simple replacement of the local tstat on the unit with a 240 volt single pole tstat at floor level.
Use 14 gauge nm-b between heater and tstat. Fuses protect the #14.

ETA:
Or you could put the new floor tstat in series with the local tstat. The local tstat would be set to 9/10 on the dial and the real temp setting is managed by the setting on the floor tstat.

The local tstat has a "0" setting to shut off heater if desired. This could be the reason to keep it in the circuit.

 

[PoorUB]

This is what you have for the tstat circuit. (I didn't trace out the rest, but know it's not 3 phase.)




It's a simple replacement of the local tstat on the unit with a 240 volt single pole tstat at floor level.
Use 14 gauge nm-b between heater and tstat. Fuses protect the #14.

ETA:
Or you could put the new floor tstat in series with the local tstat. The local tstat would be set to 9/10 on the dial and the real temp setting is managed by the setting on the floor tstat.

The local tstat has a "0" setting to shut off heater if desired. This could be the reason to keep it in the circuit.

I agree that would be a simple way out of you don't mind the limited choices of a line voltage thermostat.

If the OP was to go this way this is on the control side and the only load if the contactor, probably way less than 1/2 of an amp, so pretty much any line voltage 'stat rated for 240 volt will work.

The relay set up I mentioned earlier would work with pretty much any 24V 'stat, even a programmable, or and WiFi enabled 'stat.

 

[BurtEggley]

My concern there is that they don't sell this anymore.

Really? I downloaded a PDF about 30 seconds ago showing a 240V single phase version, OASU10000AM-T2. The T2 means that it comes with a built in thermostat. Your sticker shows that yours was also built at the factory as a 240V single phase unit with a thermostat, and not a 3-phase 208V unit. The phone number on your sticker is still their customer service number.

https://www.ouellet.com/ouellet.com/files/d5/d519cf77-6eb3-469d-8473-fd2cab0bc169.pdf

 

[Dusten]

Really? I downloaded a PDF about 30 seconds ago showing a 240V single phase version, OASU10000AM-T2. The T2 means that it comes with a built in thermostat. Your sticker shows that yours was also built at the factory as a 240V single phase unit with a thermostat, and not a 3-phase 208V unit. The phone number on your sticker is still their customer service number.

https://www.ouellet.com/ouellet.com/files/d5/d519cf77-6eb3-469d-8473-fd2cab0bc169.pdf

I know how to read the sticker, thats why i posted it. Its also no longer for sale. Just because limited documentation exists, doesn't mean a company provides technical support anymore.

 

[Dusten]

I agree that would be a simple way out of you don't mind the limited choices of a line voltage thermostat.

If the OP was to go this way this is on the control side and the only load if the contactor, probably way less than 1/2 of an amp, so pretty much any line voltage 'stat rated for 240 volt will work.

The relay set up I mentioned earlier would work with pretty much any 24V 'stat, even a programmable, or and WiFi enabled 'stat.

you can get wifi capable line voltage t-stats. Something like this seems to fit the bill

https://www.homedepot.com/p/King-Electric-Hoot-WiFi-Line-Voltage-7-Day-Programmable-Thermostat-120-Volt-208-Volt-240-Volt-Single-Pole-K901-W/318591938

or

Smart Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters | Mysa

Shop smart electric baseboard heater thermostats online at Mysa. Get 10% off your first order.

getmysa.com

 

[mm08822]

I know how to read the sticker, thats why i posted it. Its also no longer for sale. Just because limited documentation exists, doesn't mean a company provides technical support anymore.

Or sells the optional accessories.

Part numbers of those options would be needed for a NOS search.

Or just move on with your own hardware choice as you just posted.

 

[jlv03]

you can get wifi capable line voltage t-stats. Something like this seems to fit the bill

https://www.homedepot.com/p/King-Electric-Hoot-WiFi-Line-Voltage-7-Day-Programmable-Thermostat-120-Volt-208-Volt-240-Volt-Single-Pole-K901-W/318591938

or

Smart Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters | Mysa

Shop smart electric baseboard heater thermostats online at Mysa. Get 10% off your first order.

getmysa.com

Anything with WiFi will need continuous power. On 24V thermostats that's why you always see posts about running a "C" common wire to complete the circuit for continuous power.

In this case, the line voltage thermostats with WiFi will need either a neutral (if 120VAC) or the opposite leg (if 240VAC).

For your heater, we can still use the thermostat T1/T2 connections, but you'll need to pull off the opposite leg (L2). You'll need to use a 3 conductor cable (14-3 Romex for example).

 

[dscheidt]

I know how to read the sticker, thats why i posted it. Its also no longer for sale. Just because limited documentation exists, doesn't mean a company provides technical support anymore.

Have you called and asked? while it's entirely possible they don't support it, it's also possible they do, or can direct you to someone who might have the parts you wnat. Worst that happens is you waste a little time.

 

[Dusten]

Have you called and asked? while it's entirely possible they don't support it, it's also possible they do, or can direct you to someone who might have the parts you wnat. Worst that happens is you waste a little time.

I haven't. I'm generally asleep during the business day and it's not important enough to stay up until they open

 

[BurtEggley]

Here, don't worrry about it - took me all of 45 seconds to do this.

"Good morning Burt,

The thermostat built-in thermostat is: KIT-OAS-T.

If you need to order, you can by Gordon Electric in Chicago. Gordon accepts customer orders.

Gordon Electric Supply Inc. (Mokena) in Illinois. Gordon is dealing with web end-user. Phone: 708-479-4660.


Thank you. Regards"

Patricia Giasson

Ouellet Canada

Technicienne au service à la clientèle

Customer Service Technician

T. 418‑247‑3947 ext. 341 1 800 463‑7043

 

[larry4406]

Here, don't worrry about it - took me all of 45 seconds to do this.

Good morning Burt,



The thermostat built-in thermostat is: KIT-OAS-T.

If you need to order, you can by Gordon Electric in Chicago. Gordon accepts customer orders.

Gordon Electric Supply Inc. (Mokena) in Illinois. Gordon is dealing with web end-user. Phone: 708-479-4660.


Thank you. Regards

Patricia Giasson

Ouellet Canada

Technicienne au service à la clientèle

Customer Service Technician

T. 418‑247‑3947 ext. 341 1 800 463‑7043

And you can buy it on-line, off peak time for your work schedule.

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Ouellet-Kit-Oas-T-Mech-Stat-1P/6509109

https://www.stateelectric.com/products/ouellet-kit-oas-t

 

[BillK]

Any thoughts on how to wire it?

In the wiring diagram there is a 24V transformer. I dont see it in any of your pictures. Does it exist ? Maybe somewhere else in the heater ?

 

[jlv03]

The 24V transformer, like the summer fan switch, internal thermostat, and 24V relay, are all marked with an * to denote they are options to the standard 3 phase design.

 

[BurtEggley]

the factory said "kit" when they gave the part number. That might imply that all the parts needed are in the kit. It looks to me like the factory thermostat takes the place of the onboard one, but goes at the remote location to make it easier to turn on and off.

The factory RT kit, with a relay and 24V transformer looks to use a standard hvac 24V thermostat.

It is probably moot because he sleeps days and in his words not worth the time to follow up.

 

[Dusten]

the factory said "kit" when they gave the part number. That might imply that all the parts needed are in the kit. It looks to me like the factory thermostat takes the place of the onboard one, but goes at the remote location to make it easier to turn on and off.

The factory RT kit, with a relay and 24V transformer looks to use a standard hvac 24V thermostat.

It is probably moot because he sleeps days and in his words not worth the time to follow up.

What follow up? An easy solution has been presented here that is available at my local hardware store. There is zero to be gained from calling the manufacturer. Between work and my kids I'm not going to devote any time to call a manufacturer about a discontinued product to ask a question that's already been solved.

The heater was installed a decade ago by a man who's dead(previous homeowner) so if a kit was purchased it's gone. And is a kit still exists from the manufacturer I have no need nor desire to buy it vs a readily available option that doesn't require shipping.

I stopped replying here because no further replies are needed. But since you want to judge my lifestyle I guess we're back.

 

[Dusten]

Here, don't worrry about it - took me all of 45 seconds to do this.

I'm glad you're so obsessed with finding an answer to a question that's been answered. Jesus **** you're insufferable.

 

[Dusten]

And you can buy it on-line, off peak time for your work schedule.

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Ouellet-Kit-Oas-T-Mech-Stat-1P/6509109

https://www.stateelectric.com/products/ouellet-kit-oas-t

Except that does nothing I want.

Is it programmable or wifi? Nope.

 

[BurtEggley]

Except that does nothing I want.

Is it programmable or wifi? Nope.

The 24V RT kit uses a standard HVAC thermostat of your choice.

 

[mm08822]

What follow up? An easy solution has been presented here that is available at my local hardware store. There is zero to be gained from calling the manufacturer. Between work and my kids I'm not going to devote any time to call a manufacturer about a discontinued product to ask a question that's already been solved.

The heater was installed a decade ago by a man who's dead(previous homeowner) so if a kit was purchased it's gone. And is a kit still exists from the manufacturer I have no need nor desire to buy it vs a readily available option that doesn't require shipping.

I stopped replying here because no further replies are needed. But since you want to judge my lifestyle I guess we're back.

Sometimes you need to ask for the thread to be shut down. (This is one of them!)