
Great movie. WWII history buffs love it for accuracy in detail.
Thank you very much, I appreciate it.@GirchyGirchy Many hopeful thoughts for your FIL
I am sure you have played around with it. They may just be a bit front heavy but congrats on getting 300 lbs out of it. Did you disconnect the sway bars first? Put that 15 lbs in there tooYes, I have Ohlins. The battery is 3lbs and it is on the passenger side. The car is down to 2500lbs from 2800. I have a ballast in the drivers seat representing my weight. I should add about another 15 lbs there. My concern is that front left corner. That tire and wheel bearing take a beating. It gets hot.
I am sure you have played around with it. They may just be a bit front heavy but congrats on getting 300 lbs out of it. Did you disconnect the sway bars first? Put that 15 lbs in there tooconsider your racing gear in your weight calcs.


I have moved a few Bridgeports and normally use a couple of pieces of 3-1/2” thick wood running left and right to the mill, spaced 30-1/4” apart and attached by long lags or GRKHad a buddy come by and lend a hand got the mill and lathe off the floor. They are being rehomed. Probably fab a couple 4x4s to go under them or may palletize not sure.
screws. This allows use of a pallet jack if you have one available, and the dunnage rides with the mill. I rent a hydraulic drop deck trailer for travel when I go to pick one up so it can be rolled in. A trailer rental is suggested to a buyer when I sell one. I also use stacks of 1/2 plywood that are 6 inches square to walk the unit up or down with a long pry bar in 1/2” increments and minimum tilt during the process.I think I got it. Now to figure out how to get all the soot off of the stove and my hands....
Dish soap works just fine as long as the soot isn't greasy/oily.Totally Awesome cleaner from the dollar store may be the thing for this.

Times like that call for pressing the object flat against a sanding belt while checking and correcting. Though I have a mill and lathe and used a surface grinder all the years at work, I still do not want one for home because it would not get used enough to justify the space. I have rarely on occasion covered the mill and mounted a stone in it and taken a very light cut for a more accurate surface after belt sanding a part.More cleaning of the lathe, and trying to reduce the height of a T-nut to fit in the slot on my mill. Damn, but there are times I hate hardened steel
Power door locks are right up there with power windows on my **** list. Doors on the Brick have manual locks--mostly. If you lock the driver's door with the key, it locks all doors, but doesn't necessarily unlock them when asked to. When they don't unlock automatically, they don't unlock manually without a lot of pounding on the lock.Took the main window control switch for the T-Van apart several times. finally figured out the lock out for the Passengers side is missing a piece, and hardwired it operational. So that side works now the DS is dead still and the power lock only unlocks.
But that's better than completely nonoperational...
On the hunt for another switch, even if its a parts switch...
You send out for your current from europe?Got the damned make-up-air unit up and running. Funny how trying to run a motor wired for 115V on 230V trips the motor protector every time.
Now to figure out how it gets 230 from a single-pole breaker--the only one I can locate marked MAU. Good thing I always test for voltage before touching a bare wire, but the lock-out rendered it safe.
Power door locks are right up there with power window on my **** list. Doors on the Brick have manual locks--mostly. If you lock the driver's door with the key, it locks all doors, but doesn't necessarily unlock them when asked to. When they don't unlock automatically, they don't unlock manually without a lot of pounding on the lock.
If you lock the driver's door with the key, it locks all doors, but doesn't necessarily unlock them when asked to.
Our power is weird. Yes, our 3P is 230V. If we had high voltage it would be 460V. Low voltage is 115--nominally, but actually more like 120V. Still 60Hz, thank PPL. Our 3P is also Delta, which confuses the **** out of electricians from other parts of the country. Two legs measure 120 to ground, the other, high leg, 230 (240). That leg damned well better be on the center bus of a 3P breaker box or bad **** can happen.You send out for your current from europe?
Or you have one leg of 460v
Yep. I've since cleaned every contact in every door, but am still a little shy about testing it. We locals don't use door locks hereabouts, anyhow.Have you tried a "double tap" on the key when unlocking? on our Corolla, once unlocks the Drives door, 2X all of them...





I worked with a machinist's job shop for a while. Every standing machine in the shop was set on 4x4's. We moved them with pallet jacks when needed.I have moved a few Bridgeports and normally use a couple of pieces of 3-1/2” thick wood running left and right to the mill, spaced 30-1/4” apart and attached by long lags or GRKscrews. This allows use of a pallet jack if you have one available, and the dunnage rides with the mill. I rent a hydraulic drop deck trailer for travel when I go to pick one up so it can be rolled in. A trailer rental is suggested to a buyer when I sell one. I also use stacks of 1/2 plywood that are 6 inches square to walk the unit up or down with a long pry bar in 1/2” increments and minimum tilt during the process.
Used to live about eight miles from PIR--Portland International Raceway--way back when. Formula cars be loud.Listened to the NASCAR engines as they tried out the track: I think they were about a mile from my house.
