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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

LWB

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Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
1,229
Location
ON, Canada
Well, apparently I've achieved a perfect 50% corner balance. I only had to take the tires on and off 25-30 times. :geek:
Still can't get my head wrapped around this but going to give it a whirl. I'll make sure to wear a helmet lol

50%.jpg

50% 2.jpg
 
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Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,801
Location
Far NE Oregon
Did my morning chores.

Installed the new motor for the kitchen make-up-air unit after lunch. Got the pulleys aligned, belt on and tensioned, wiring done.

55343519241_2187a57991_o.jpg

I had to wait 'til after lunch to get a second set of hands. The days when I'd reach in there, hold the motor with one hand while I installed the bolts with the other are about thirty years in the past--if they ever existed. Younger guy who was helping me struggled, and he's a gym rat.

Now the fan runs--if I start the contactor manually. For some reason, the controls don't seem to be sending a signal to the contactor. It's 89 F out right now. The fan enclosure is near the peak of a N-S roof ridge and the enclosure is all shiny galvanized steel. I think I'll wait 'til the morning to diagnose it.

There's other stuff to be done without cooking in a reflector oven.
 

GirchyGirchy

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Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
9,877
Location
Central Indiana
@GirchyGirchy Many hopeful thoughts for your FIL
Thank you very much, I appreciate it.

So far it's going as well as we could hope for. He's not in pain, he's in a very nice dedicated facility that's cheaper than the nursing home down the street, he's at peace with his situation, and was read his last rights today by his priest. He's 90 so one could do far worse. We don't know how long he has but as long as he's in good spirits we're happy.
 

Overboost44

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2020
Messages
98
Location
MD
Yes, I have Ohlins. The battery is 3lbs and it is on the passenger side. The car is down to 2500lbs from 2800. I have a ballast in the drivers seat representing my weight. I should add about another 15 lbs there. My concern is that front left corner. That tire and wheel bearing take a beating. It gets hot.
I am sure you have played around with it. They may just be a bit front heavy but congrats on getting 300 lbs out of it. Did you disconnect the sway bars first? Put that 15 lbs in there too ;) consider your racing gear in your weight calcs.
 

LWB

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Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
1,229
Location
ON, Canada
I am sure you have played around with it. They may just be a bit front heavy but congrats on getting 300 lbs out of it. Did you disconnect the sway bars first? Put that 15 lbs in there too ;) consider your racing gear in your weight calcs.

Thanks, Yes I did. I did an alignment first and will do another one now. The plan is to do some lexan and a half cage next (Winter) That will put some weight over the rear again. They're 57/43 stock.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,801
Location
Far NE Oregon
After knocking off for the day, I had a Coleman problem to deal with.

Last time I used my favorite two tone candy-apple-red Coleman 500A stove, it flared badly--overburning due to being far too rich. It was bad enough to cover the outside of the stove with soot. Can't have that.

I removed the valve and generator--they come out as a unit fairly easily (1/2" and 7/16" open-end wrench). Checked the orifice tip for tightness--a leak there will cause an overburn--not sure if it was a tiny bit loose or not. The gen tube was pretty badly "bananaed"--banana-shaped from heat. I used a couple of heavy steel plates to straighten it. The bent tube matters as most Coleman stoves use a "valve and needle" to regulate fuel delivery to the gen tip. The valve is more or less a crude metering device, while the needle--which is also the orifice cleaning needle--finely regulates the flow out of the generator. If the tube is bent, it's effectively longer than the needle, resulting in too much fuel being delivered. Or something like that.

55344078088_688b02a81f_o.jpg

I think I got it. Now to figure out how to get all the soot off of the stove and my hands....
 
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Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,801
Location
Far NE Oregon
Well, the only way I'm getting the soot off is to half-way disassemble the stove.

55343026482_6d8399922d_o.jpg

The tools needed to get to this point are on the right. When I put it back together, a screw starter is the killer tool for getting the two long screws that hold the whole thing together back in.

It was over burning pretty badly to get that much soot on the bottom of the heat shield. Where the soot is missing is where it's now on my fingers.

I'll hit it with some soapy water and a white Scotch Brite pad and get 'er ready for the next trip. While I have it apart, I'll turn the mostly-straight gen tube upside-down so it "bananas" the opposite way next time.
 

OccupantRJ

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Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,081
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Had a buddy come by and lend a hand got the mill and lathe off the floor. They are being rehomed. Probably fab a couple 4x4s to go under them or may palletize not sure.
I have moved a few Bridgeports and normally use a couple of pieces of 3-1/2” thick wood running left and right to the mill, spaced 30-1/4” apart and attached by long lags or GRK IMG_3742.jpegscrews. This allows use of a pallet jack if you have one available, and the dunnage rides with the mill. I rent a hydraulic drop deck trailer for travel when I go to pick one up so it can be rolled in. A trailer rental is suggested to a buyer when I sell one. I also use stacks of 1/2 plywood that are 6 inches square to walk the unit up or down with a long pry bar in 1/2” increments and minimum tilt during the process.
 
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CoogarXR

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Jan 11, 2016
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6,856
Location
Ohio
Moved another few loads of stuff from my old/small garage to the new one. I think I'm about 80% moved now. All that is left is one shelf of boxes and about 3 10ft shelves consisting of all my parts bins/cabinets.

Probably only about half a van load left, but just so many small things to handle, and its such a mess right now from all the projects lately. I've gotta sort the mess, get everything put away, then pack it and move it.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,241
Location
The Badlands
Took the main window DS control switch for the T-Van apart several times. finally figured out the lock out for the Passengers side is missing a piece, and hardwired it operational. So that side works now the DS is dead still and the power lock only unlocks. :rant:


But that's better than completely nonoperational...

On the hunt for another switch, even if its a parts switch...
 
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OccupantRJ

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Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,081
Location
Eastern North Carolina
More cleaning of the lathe, and trying to reduce the height of a T-nut to fit in the slot on my mill. Damn, but there are times I hate hardened steel
Times like that call for pressing the object flat against a sanding belt while checking and correcting. Though I have a mill and lathe and used a surface grinder all the years at work, I still do not want one for home because it would not get used enough to justify the space. I have rarely on occasion covered the mill and mounted a stone in it and taken a very light cut for a more accurate surface after belt sanding a part.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,801
Location
Far NE Oregon
Got the damned make-up-air unit up and running. Funny how trying to run a motor wired for 115V on 230V trips the motor protector every time.

Now to figure out how it gets 230 from a single-pole breaker--the only one I can locate marked MAU. Good thing I always test for voltage before touching a bare wire, but the lock-out rendered it safe.
Took the main window control switch for the T-Van apart several times. finally figured out the lock out for the Passengers side is missing a piece, and hardwired it operational. So that side works now the DS is dead still and the power lock only unlocks. :rant:


But that's better than completely nonoperational...

On the hunt for another switch, even if its a parts switch...
Power door locks are right up there with power windows on my **** list. Doors on the Brick have manual locks--mostly. If you lock the driver's door with the key, it locks all doors, but doesn't necessarily unlock them when asked to. When they don't unlock automatically, they don't unlock manually without a lot of pounding on the lock.
 
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Wrench97

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Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,101
Location
Southeastern Pa
Got the damned make-up-air unit up and running. Funny how trying to run a motor wired for 115V on 230V trips the motor protector every time.

Now to figure out how it gets 230 from a single-pole breaker--the only one I can locate marked MAU. Good thing I always test for voltage before touching a bare wire, but the lock-out rendered it safe.

Power door locks are right up there with power window on my **** list. Doors on the Brick have manual locks--mostly. If you lock the driver's door with the key, it locks all doors, but doesn't necessarily unlock them when asked to. When they don't unlock automatically, they don't unlock manually without a lot of pounding on the lock.
You send out for your current from europe?

Or you have one leg of 460v
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,801
Location
Far NE Oregon
You send out for your current from europe?

Or you have one leg of 460v
Our power is weird. Yes, our 3P is 230V. If we had high voltage it would be 460V. Low voltage is 115--nominally, but actually more like 120V. Still 60Hz, thank PPL. Our 3P is also Delta, which confuses the **** out of electricians from other parts of the country. Two legs measure 120 to ground, the other, high leg, 230 (240). That leg damned well better be on the center bus of a 3P breaker box or bad **** can happen.

Keeping electrical and electronics working can be difficult.
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,314
Location
DeKalb, IL
Started building an outfeed table for my new saw.


First, some CAD to deal with the changes in the current model of this saw.

IMG_9577.jpeg

His top hook is designed to fit over a 1” pipe. The current design eliminated that pipe and replaced it with a sheetmetal C channel.

Glued up the side pieces.

IMG_9578.jpeg


While Working out the CAD changes, I was using Dad’s old level. He broke the glass in one of the ends decades ago. It’s been broken for as long as I can remember.

IMG_9363.jpeg

I found an appropriate size “flashlight” glass on Amazon a while back. Tempered, too, which is nice.

I scraped out the old glazing and the remains of the glass.

IMG_9579.jpeg

New glass and glazing putty.

IMG_9580.jpeg

I don’t know if this is going to work, but it seems like it should.
 

56vette461

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
493
Location
Northern California
I have moved a few Bridgeports and normally use a couple of pieces of 3-1/2” thick wood running left and right to the mill, spaced 30-1/4” apart and attached by long lags or GRK IMG_3742.jpegscrews. This allows use of a pallet jack if you have one available, and the dunnage rides with the mill. I rent a hydraulic drop deck trailer for travel when I go to pick one up so it can be rolled in. A trailer rental is suggested to a buyer when I sell one. I also use stacks of 1/2 plywood that are 6 inches square to walk the unit up or down with a long pry bar in 1/2” increments and minimum tilt during the process.
I worked with a machinist's job shop for a while. Every standing machine in the shop was set on 4x4's. We moved them with pallet jacks when needed.
 

bugnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,902
Location
Central Ohio
@OccupantRJ Very similar method employed. The cribbing is in the containers under the lathe. 1x4s and 4x4s donated by the amish woodcutters in the nearby area.

@56vette461 I visited a lot of small shops as part of my career. Those that made money had no free time for operators and the equipment was relocated to streamline the workflow. One very capable group used steel pallets with vibration isolating jack feet. Could probably reset the whole production line in an afternoon.

As for waht I di I shuffled more stuff in the shop. Then installed a new interior rear view mirror and new sun visors in my avatar beetle. Both look good but the dadgum rear view mounting is black and squarish, which *****. So I went looking for a replacement for the replacement.

Printed some 18v and 40 v ryobi battery holders gonna end up reworking the idle battery storage.

edit for splling
 
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