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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Double Bee Garage (28x40 stick framed, 12ft ceiling with 10/12 pitch floored attic)

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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robb1887

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That is the most time that I have ever spent on a thread with 38 posts! Very detailed and well done. I got into this because I am not too far from you if I am guessing right. My beginnings started out like you. Years of drawings and plans that covid wiped out with lumber prices that quadrupled. I am now ready and hope mine does not take as long as yours. Look forward to the final few pics and stories to come.

I am prepping for a 26x40 attached garage. You provided some things that I look forward to, others that I don't, and yet more that I had not considered. Overall, your Double Bee garage is close to what I will be doing. I have the same siding but in white to match my house. Loft space but over only 1/2. Lift, 12/12 roof, 9' walls. I could learn a lot from you on your epic electric journey. I would not be prepared for an $8k quote.

Thank you. I got a lot of insight from this community in my planning and definitely wanted to put some of it back in. Kent Island is about 4 hours north of me.


Not sure if you are 26 wide and 40 deep or 26 deep and 40 wide, but if its the later I would highly suggest trying to squeeze in that 2 ft. It sounds like you're doing car mechanical work as well and a car on a lift and a workbench in front makes for very little working room front to back for say engine hoists, rolling tools and material around, or what not to manuver in. I stood in my Uncles 24' deep garage and immedately agreed that 24' is just not enough as he had warned for my planned work. Material/labor wise its negligable as you're ripping sheets down at 26' vs just slapping them on at 28'
 
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Overboost44

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Thank you. I got a lot of insight from this community in my planning and definitely wanted to put some of it back in. Kent Island is about 4 hours north of me.


Not sure if you are 26 wide and 40 deep or 26 deep and 40 wide, but if its the later I would highly suggest trying to squeeze in that 2 ft. It sounds like you're doing car mechanical work as well and a car on a lift and a workbench in front makes for very little working room front to back for say engine hoists, rolling tools and material around, or what not to manuver in. I stood in my Uncles 24' deep garage and immedately agreed that 24' is just not enough as he had warned for my planned work. Material/labor wise its negligable as you're ripping sheets down at 26' vs just slapping them on at 28'
I guessed wrong about your location. Regardless, I read your post to my wife because I said "listen to this, this is our situation. I appreciate your response also. We can learn a lot from others...

40w x 26d is correct. Where I actual have a problem is OA height. At 28'w I will be a foot higher than I am allowed. Have to keep the 12/12 pitch to match the house. I may be able to get a variance but what I am planning to combat the lack of depth is to have 7' of workshop space along the side where the lift is. I do realize that the 2' would be negligible cost, but I started out at 28'wx24d' and realized quickly that would be a mistake. I am trying to avoid having steel i-beams put in and I believe 28' would put me over the span where I could do it with wood.

I am a car guy and that will be the primary use, wrenching on cars. Love your clown shoe. Looks really well done.
 
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robb1887

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Yea, at 28' you'd need to upgrade to either Steel beams or IJT's I looked at both WAY back. I am definitely glad I have no HOA issues and my county is unconderned on height requirements. My desires to match the house as close to what I did was my own desire. I had friends early on trying to get me to build a steel building.

I ended up going with a pair of steel beams, for future gantry crane dreams with a 25'ish cross hung beam and rolling trolleys to get nearly every corner of the shop space for heavy lifting.
 

Swanny1953

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I had a similar issue with the roofline being too high on the last addition. The architect solves that by having 2 roof lines - 3/12 for the first section on either side and 8/12 in the middle to match the existing roof slope. I think it turned out great. Pics are in my build thread in my sig below. .
 
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robb1887

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3/11- the upstairs HVAC ceiling cassette was able to be final hooked up with the ceiling finished painting which was amazing news. I lucked out as we did not plan that the louvers pointed AWAY from the staircase to keep the space conditioned better.

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3/13- Not a lot picture worthy tonight other than the first set of lights are hung and the 3 110V ceiling outlets. And moving the temp string downstairs for more light.
The 8ft fixture is slightly out of position as I wait for some extension wiring to arrive to lengthen the lead a foot or two. I'm 3D printing the first wire clip to snap all the wiring to the fixtures for final install.

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3/14- A lot of priming today thanks to some help from a friend. Upstairs and bay 1 completely ready for top coat. First 5 gallon of primer was tapped. Bay 2 and 3 were started with the remains of the primer already poured before calling it a day.

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3/15- I finally broke down and bought an 18" roller setup, no I didnt want to spray. I had previously been working on a 10" roller as I already had it but a project this size... I needed to do something. Bay 1 got its first of two top coats, cut in Bay 3 primer and got most exposed garage door framing primed.

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3/21- Almost done with priming. Bay 2 ceiling and maybe 10% of the walls remain. Thanks for the help from a neighbor. Bay 1 ceiling ready for lights tomorrow so I can move all the obstructions into the center of Bay 1 to make life easier. Bay 3 nearly fully primed. Ceiling paint was dead, needed another 5 gallons. The primer was almost dead and would need another gallon. Then lots and LOTS of wall paint (about 12.5 gallons).

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3/22- I ran out of primer for the fresh drywall wans was ~100sqft short. Bummer. Bay 2 & 3 ceiling were primed and cut in for top coat. Bay 1 lights were installed. I need to modify the box covers to accept a wire pass through and will do that after move in for all my tools to be readily available.

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3/23- Bay 2 & 3 got their first top coat and the upstairs corners were all cut in for top coat

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3/24- I finished with ceiling paint finally. The 2nd coats were only a 10% (but much needed) added value to clean up the last bits of variances you could see through the primer and first coat. I also started on the first top coat of walls upstairs, and particularly the stair's wall/knee wall to get that finished to put the railings back up.

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Which one has the 2nd top coat?!
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3/25- downstairs "entry circuit" and bay 1 lights went up to the ceiling again

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3/29- downstairs lights are all on the ceiling. I have some extra clips to install 20/20 hindsight and the modified box covers to still figure out and install.

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April was Crazy... so I didnt get any shop work done.

5/10- I started cutting in corners and hung the second row of lights upstairs and put in the ceiling outlets

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5/17- I finished cutting in all the corners for rolling the walls

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5/18- The downstairs first full coat was done

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I think that night I just sat in the space and looked at white walls grinning as I could actually "feel" like I was getting close to being done. The bare drywall to first top coat transformation was a big morale boost.

5/19- I applied the 2nd full vertical wall coat upstairs and downstairs so I could start putting in outlet circuits, and a bit upstairs on the rafter "walls" as it was the last bit left of that 5gallon bucket, the paint extention handle on the floor marked where the paint ran out to pick up the next time. A 2nd coat of white paint really doesnt do justice in pictures but it was apparent in person.

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It also was the beginning of the outlet/switch/blank saga of electrical. I ended up with 47 120V duplex plugs and 2 welder/plasma plugs for initial install. I have 2 outstanding plugs for the lifts that the plug style is TBD and are waiting that.

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5/24- marked another miles stone for DBG HQ, all the interior wall/ceiling paint was DONE. All the surfaces had 2 coats of top and a coat of primer.

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5/27- This date marked the "initial" final electrical install which really is just all the plug outlets, missing a few cover plates, and left the known current 220V hardwire boxes open as well as the in wall EMT for A/V cables.

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It also meant that the "late added" attic kick wall lights were powered now as they were in hindsight tied into the 20A outlet circuits
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5/31- I am my own worst enemy at this point for getting stuff done before move in, delaying my move in. I decided last minute to add CMU block coating to the inside as well for consistency and ease of future cleaning & "curb appeal". This directly affected ability to paint and apply trim, as I'm only one guy. But it came out great in hindsight and I'm glad I did it


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Before and after with trim "thrown on"
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robb1887

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Updates back to 3/11 are updated in the post prior... the build thread is current. We'll see if I get anything done this weekend as my house upper HVAC went out so we're in emergency work protocols there.
 
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runit

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What a space! Truly a labor of love and it shows.

And a 3rd gen 4Runner with a M coupe!

I'm following this for sure!
 
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robb1887

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Home HVAC is back to normal operation, with minimal exposure to hot days which was good.

Got back to some shop progress, and did and initial pressure wash of the floor to apply the densifier and sealant (Ghostshield 4500/8510) in the next weeks.

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20/20 hindsight this should have been done BEFORE drywall and paint to not be as much of a headache... even insulation maybe to reduce the dust thereof but I skipped over that option too.

I would do this in future builds as to having the floor dried in and cured for the 28 days or whatnot

I unforunately have to do a split application as I have too much stuff already accumulated in the space over the last two years, so bays 2 & 3 are getting done first, then moving all my junk to get bay 1 applied.
 

JohnX14

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I'm not a frequent poster here, but I do want to say congrats after reading this thrugh. I can't imagine the patience it's taken for nearly 3 years. Thay may sound cynical, but it's not. I'm in construction, and have built a few personal houses and detached garages, and they go quick, mostly because of my resources and limited time. The fact that you did what you did yourself, with limited help, is fantastic. (Along with kids, wife, job, etc) I enjoyed reading this thread. Keep going strong.
 
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robb1887

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Doing a little more google research I made a personal determination that my floor was power troweled.

I applied the 4500 (single coat) just before our week vacation which was perfect for a cure time. The 8510 (wet on wet, 2 coats) was applied as soon as we got back to allow it to cure over the week before moving all the equipment over from bay 1 to repeat the process again.

The 4500 (1:1 dilution) was sprayed on and subsequently rolled with the 3/8 microfiber roller to even everything out. (~1.5gal of solution)

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The 8510 was sprayed on, then wet coated shortly after, then rolled over in both directions. The finish had a slight sheen a few hours later but I'm hoping its going to dull back out. (nearly 2 full gallons)

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I'm not sure if because I am power troweled AND conditioned that the absorption rate is so slow, but the "minute or two" on the label was not seen for my application of either product. It did seem to soak/evaporate better at the edges that are likely significantly warmer due to heat soak than the middle of the slab. I also did zero of the testing suggested as I am up against a deadline for move in. Ambient temps were 74°F-ish during application and a dehum running at 55%.

The sweep prior to the 8510 already showed significantly less dusting which was my biggest dissatisfaction so far with my pad.

Friday night/Saturday will move all the equipment for washing/degreasing bay 1 with a target to apply the 4500 on Sunday the 12th, and 8510 the night of the 18th.
 
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robb1887

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I'm not a frequent poster here, but I do want to say congrats after reading this thrugh. I can't imagine the patience it's taken for nearly 3 years. Thay may sound cynical, but it's not. I'm in construction, and have built a few personal houses and detached garages, and they go quick, mostly because of my resources and limited time. The fact that you did what you did yourself, with limited help, is fantastic. (Along with kids, wife, job, etc) I enjoyed reading this thread. Keep going strong.

I missed responding here, but thanks! It's definitely gotten to the point I am tired of working ON the shop and not just working IN the shop. I'm getting really close.

Small update was I finally pulled the trigger on the first of two Chamberlain RJO101 jackshaft openers. I wanted to ensure I didnt need to modify anything else before trimming out around that area. This turned out to be a good plan since I had not accounted for the deadbolt lock wiring when I prewired the lower door sensors and wall switch. I was able to shimmy it into the gaps of the drywall to the door framing and should cover with the trim no issue at least.

It was amazing how much faster these style are to install vs the conventional hanging belt driven track units. I had the first installed in an evening after work, the pre-wiring of course helped a to as well.

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I still need to solder the sensor wiring permanent and route that with some wire keepers better, but its operational for the moment which is the important part as when I treat the last bay I would have "painted myself into a corner" if i couldnt access the space through the single man door.
 
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