no. side holes. 2" drilled in.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
no. side holes. 2" drilled in.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
So I bought the P2S with AMS2 combo a couple of weeks ago and am addicted. For drying in the AMS, I don't like that I can't print while drying and have to remove all PLA. And even non-PLA cannot be strung into the AMS.
Anyone else with the AMS2 feel that a separate dryer is necessary? I am thinking about getting the $40 Sun Lu 2
Anyone else with the AMS2 feel that a separate dryer is necessary? I am thinking about getting the $40 Sun Lu 2
I hate my AMS for drying. My Sovol SH03, on the other hand, is pretty awesome.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
We got a SpacePi duo for the school, and can't really say that it was amazing. I did order some small parts to try and set up a motorized roller for it, but out of the box, it is fairly "meh". Not bad, per we, but nothing to recommend it over simply drying inside (we have X1C and X1Es)
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Could get a Sunlu lid and print an adapter to fit the ams2
cody1325
Well-known member
In this humidity, yep, even PLA has been stringing like heck. I just turned on my Sunlu S1 and chucked in a roll of glow PLA (the overpriced Hobby Lobby stuff--which basically only gets bought if I was in there for diecast, or by Rural King) I rarely use, and it was at 66%--that's about 15% more than the worst it's been before.
Definitely may consider upgrading to something nicer next month.
Definitely may consider upgrading to something nicer next month.
moab11
Well-known member
I've been happy with my Sunlu S2, S4 and E2. I find the S2 needs a spacer in the lid towards the end to dry better, but is good for printing TPU from to keep it nice and dry.
I'd like to try the lid for my AMS, but need to redo my printing area to have the additional room required.
I'd like to try the lid for my AMS, but need to redo my printing area to have the additional room required.
niget2002
Well-known member
All you guys playing with multi color prints and I'm still waiting for Bondtech to finish their INDX and release it so I can shoe-horn it into my custom built machine.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I printed a spacer and a base for my s2, both have been helpful. The lid heaters work great
fourjeepin
Well-known member
I will research these as I am not familiar with them
Can you elaborate on this spacer/base? I have seen info on the lid heaters and considered them, but would still have to remove an PLA before using the heater.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Why remove pla before heating? I run pla through my S2 all the time, just at a lower temp than tpu and petg
This is the base and spacer for my S2. The base makes it more stable and the little wings allow it to straddle my Apc UPS.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Oh, did you mean removing the spacer not a spool of pla? Easy peasy, print it out of Petg or tpu
Old tool guy
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Need help please. I’m a rookie at this, we’re visiting relates for the holidays and i brought my printer along to show my nephew. He’s hooked. Sidebar, he’s in a wheelchair so his activities are limited, this fits perfectly into his world.
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Trying to make a print with text. Opened this cross from bambu, added text, cannot get the text to sit on top of the cross. Watched videos, read descriptions, doesn’t work. It says to select Object mide, highlight Text line, right click, change to Modifier. But the dropdown menu we get from right click doesn’t match what they show.
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Trying to make a print with text. Opened this cross from bambu, added text, cannot get the text to sit on top of the cross. Watched videos, read descriptions, doesn’t work. It says to select Object mide, highlight Text line, right click, change to Modifier. But the dropdown menu we get from right click doesn’t match what they show.
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kaymccampbell
Well-known member
You need to select the face of the thing you want to add the modifier to. Here's a video.
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
@Old tool guy
I just tested this. What worked for me after downloading the model you showed was to make sure I had the object selected, like you had it, then I just selected the Text tool at the top, input the text I wanted, then use the handles to rotate and the yellow square in the middle of the text to move it to where I wanted. Never complicated things with "modifier." I'm using Bambu Studio version 2.7.1.62 in case that's different, but the approach I used was consistent with my much earlier version on my older computer.
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I just tested this. What worked for me after downloading the model you showed was to make sure I had the object selected, like you had it, then I just selected the Text tool at the top, input the text I wanted, then use the handles to rotate and the yellow square in the middle of the text to move it to where I wanted. Never complicated things with "modifier." I'm using Bambu Studio version 2.7.1.62 in case that's different, but the approach I used was consistent with my much earlier version on my older computer.
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The other "less intuitive" step is if you want to recess/embed the text in as opposed to it stand out or just a different color, you set the embed depth(in mm) in the text edit tool, but you then have to select the text, right click and change it to a negative modifier. It pops up a new box with a drop down selection, and it's the second one down as I recall. It's an odd and seemingly obscure setting to hide to make it work
Old tool guy
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I think what i was doing wrong was not placing the text on the object first, i think if you do that it isn’t changable. Followed the instructions, works great. Thanks kay
fourjeepin
Well-known member
Anybody using a rack like this for their printer? Mine currently sits on the floor and I want to get it up some. I was thinking about building something out of angle iron (old bedframes) but this is the perfect size at 16x16 and only $35. I would only use 3 shelves, about 10 in apart. Total height to the top of the AMS would be about 50".
The printer would probably need something under its feet instead of sitting directly on the rack. Rough cut/paste below:
The printer would probably need something under its feet instead of sitting directly on the rack. Rough cut/paste below:
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think it's going to wobble a lot. A big concrete paver will helpAnybody using a rack like this for their printer? Mine currently sits on the floor and I want to get it up some. I was thinking about building something out of angle iron (old bedframes) but this is the perfect size at 16x16 and only $35. I would only use 3 shelves, about 10 in apart. Total height to the top of the AMS would be about 50".
The printer would probably need something under its feet instead of sitting directly on the rack. Rough cut/paste below:
Old tool guy
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Having the open grid might be good, the feet could go into the openings to help anchor it so it doesn’t slide around with vibration.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
I would try and get some X style reinforcement under the shelves/printer to stop twisting/racking.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I do pla at 55-58. Petg and tpu at 65-70
moab11
Well-known member
I just do PLA at 50, any higher and I start to get the filament melting to itself a bit, but I let a new roll cook for 24hrs usually.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I put a roll of pla in my sunlu s2 and forgot to switch it from the Petg preset...
It didn't all melt together solid but it wasn't going to unroll by itself.
It printed OK, but the color seemed dulled (rainbow pla+)
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I am always surprised that people actually still print with PLA
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have more problems with pla than Petg or tpu. But I still use it to get stuff like rainbow colors for the mini wheelchairs I print to go with the big ones. Otherwise, I don't use the stuff.
Elaborate.. I'm new to this game
Old tool guy
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I heard of a guy, new to this game, who tried to dry filament in the kitchen oven on the “warm” setting. PETG. Lowest it would go was 175. He left the door open about an inch, stopped baking after 2 hrs. Some of it was lightly stuck together. That’s the story i heard anyway …
what a ****.
what a ****.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Using an air fryer on the dehydrate setting works great
175F is 80C. There are some filaments that need that kind of temp, but not Petg. And I bet the temp fluctuate a lot in an oven at the bottom end of the range
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I've used it for plenty of things. It's fine. My shop clock and many dust collection fittings and odd jigs are made from it. Nowadays, with a better printer and a good source of material, I've been using PETG. It's still great for really cheesy test prints and lost PLA casting.
Old tool guy
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He doesn’t have one. I heard him say he’s going to invest $40 in a dryer next week.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Pla is great to start out with and I guess if you only make farcical stuff it’s ok but pla degrades over time cracking and has little heat resistance, warping even in your car.
PETG is so much more functional and if you keep it dry not much harder to print with. Lot of issues with PETG have been solved with the good build plates and the current printers that probe and generate a mesh to put down the first layer. While it’s heat resistance is not as high as ABS or nylons it’s sufficient probably everywhere in normal use
Like I said, I am new at this. My PETG prints show clear layer lines. My PLA prints are smoother and better looking, especially with the Elegoo matte PLA. That stuff shows no layers and does not look 3d printed.
With your worry about heat, how realistic of a concern is this? My biggest print so far has been a Settlers of Catan gameset (that took about 200 hours with all the expansions, cases, etc!). That game is mostly going to live in a closet and come out a few times a month for a few hours.
With your worry about heat, how realistic of a concern is this? My biggest print so far has been a Settlers of Catan gameset (that took about 200 hours with all the expansions, cases, etc!). That game is mostly going to live in a closet and come out a few times a month for a few hours.
@kaymccampbell Your signature made me think of TR, and on the eve of the 250th, this is a good quote:
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.
It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.
gtae07
Well-known member
I still use it some, mainly because I have a few leftover spools from when I had my old Ender 3 and don't want to just throw them out. I mostly use it now for printing fidget toys for my son or random other stuff (like a disposable bin for my used razor blades). Funtional prints are normally PETG, or sometimes ASA (especially for outdoor use).