ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

[SilverJimmy]

Mike, how do you like that Astro paint shaker? How does it compare to the ones you used when you sold paint? I’d like to get something for all the painting I’m doing around our new to us home. When I did the epoxy in my shop I actually took the 2 part cans to the local Home Depot and asked them if they could shake them for me. I had purchased that epoxy back in 1997 to do the floor in my first shop, but because I made the mistake of moving into the shop before I did the floor I never had the time or ambition to do all the work needed to coat the floor!
After having the materials shaken properly it worked great. I have a bunch of material in the same state, old but unopened so I’m hoping to be able to still use them if possible.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, how do you like that Astro paint shaker? How does it compare to the ones you used when you sold paint? I’d like to get something for all the painting I’m doing around our new to us home. When I did the epoxy in my shop I actually took the 2 part cans to the local Home Depot and asked them if they could shake them for me. I had purchased that epoxy back in 1997 to do the floor in my first shop, but because I made the mistake of moving into the shop before I did the floor I never had the time or ambition to do all the work needed to coat the floor!
After having the materials shaken properly it worked great. I have a bunch of material in the same state, old but unopened so I’m hoping to be able to still use them if possible.

I'm sorry Sterling, I haven't used the Atro paint shaker yet. I just purchased it a few weeks back before doing the paint touch-up on the wife's Acura, but I haven't gotten a chance to use it because the pint can fit in my shop made shaker and I didn't have a mount made yet. I have some upcoming paint work to do so I dug the shaker out last night to fabricate a mount for the next paint work I need to perform. I will have a better idea then.

That being said, I am not holding my breath that it will perform to the same degree as the ones I have used in the past as those were commercial paint shakers and operated via 120VAC rather than air, but I have read good reviews about this one so I thought I had stirred enough paint in the shop it was time to get a shaker.

 

[ntsqd]

Who knows, I may get some time over the winter.

Can I get in this line?

 

[rharman]

< snip >

I built this to tie the new design into the existing cabinet frames.

He built a really slick swing down frame to hold a smaller flat screen that mounted below the center section I built.

Full disclosure: We purchased the center door. I don’t have the cutters, a shaper or big *** router, or the skill to make that door.
The doors to the left and right I modified to hold the tinted glass.

We were both pleased with the results but it would have helped me in the beginning if I’d had your picture.

Sorry.... I have to call B.S. on that comment. We've all seen your work.

 

[T444e]

Mike, how do you like that Astro paint shaker? How does it compare to the ones you used when you sold paint? I’d like to get something for all the painting I’m doing around our new to us home. When I did the epoxy in my shop I actually took the 2 part cans to the local Home Depot and asked them if they could shake them for me. I had purchased that epoxy back in 1997 to do the floor in my first shop, but because I made the mistake of moving into the shop before I did the floor I never had the time or ambition to do all the work needed to coat the floor!
After having the materials shaken properly it worked great. I have a bunch of material in the same state, old but unopened so I’m hoping to be able to still use them if possible.

SilverJimmy, I have the Astro paint shaker and am happy with it. I got it to mix a gallon of SW Kem Kromic or alkyd enamel that the solids settled out, knowing I would end up using whenever I painted. I was impressed with how effective the shaker was mixing it. It sure beats stirring and I even use for shaking rattle cans.

I didn't use the inline lubricator included with the shaker, pain to fill. Instead I installed a lubricator in the piping at the shaker. I need to take a closer look at the lubricator I installed as it dispenses too much oil. Good thing my shop isn't remotely as clean as Mike's so I'm not too concerned with the oil residue on the stand and floor.

 

[aka Larry]

Can I get in this line?

I'm right behind you!

 

[zmotorsports]

SilverJimmy, I have the Astro paint shaker and am happy with it. I got it to mix a gallon of SW Kem Kromic or alkyd enamel that the solids settled out, knowing I would end up using whenever I painted. I was impressed with how effective the shaker was mixing it. It sure beats stirring and I even use for shaking rattle cans.

I didn't use the inline lubricator included with the shaker, pain to fill. Instead I installed a lubricator in the piping at the shaker. I need to take a closer look at the lubricator I installed as it dispenses too much oil. Good thing my shop isn't remotely as clean as Mike's so I'm not too concerned with the oil residue on the stand and floor.

Thank you for confirming my suspicions. I threaded the oiler onto mine, but haven't used it yet. I don't like how far it makes the connection hang off the mixer so I was thinking I would just add some oil to the fitting before each use, much like I do with all my other pneumatic tools. You helped me make up my mind.

Can I get in this line?

I'm right behind you!

Guys, while I'm flattered, it just doesn't make economic sense to fabricate these, even for sale. I don't think you realize the time involved to make the shaker and it wouldn't be profitable nor feasible. I wasn't looking for a marketing ploy because I don't think there's a market in it. Even streamlining the fabrication process by buying a few components in bulk and making a few of the parts on a larger scale I think these things would still be upwards of $1k. I know I had a little over a couple hundred dollars in parts and materials, some materials I had on hand and the other components were not the highest of quality, just sourced from eBay, but I had probably 12+ hours of labor into making one. Even if I cut that back to 7-8 hours of work by streamlining the process and buying bulk with a small profit margin these would be much more expensive than anyone would be willing to pay. Hell, most people squawk at the $19.95 for those cheap *** sawzall style of shakers.

I enjoyed building one for myself and glad I showed the process for others to follow, but I'm a one and done guy. I did it to satisfy my own curiosity and to have something unique in my shop to not only use, but to hand down to my son and grandson when I'm gone, nothing more.

I did the same thing when I transplanted the 6.2 liter LS into my Jeep. I have been contacted repeatedly about doing more of these LS swaps into Jeeps based on my posts and my YouTube channel and I'm just not interested. I know there are companies doing these swaps and I have also seen some cobbled together messes, which just makes mine that much more unique and rarer.

 

[zmotorsports]

I was able to finish up the mount for my Asto paint shaker last night, no they're not for sale......


Materials cut to size and prepped for welding.


Clamped in place on the fabrication table.


I opted to MIG weld this because I haven't held the squirt gun in my hand for quite some time now and I have some trailer mods coming up where I will be doing a fair amount of welding so I wanted to make sure I could still stick two pieces of metal together.




After wiping down with Wax & Grease Remover, I applied some Rustoleum Hammered Gray paint to match my shop theme.


Test fit.


Shaker mounted and tested out. Here the ball valve is opened about half way.


And fully open. To be honest I saw no real difference in the movement between half and full open on the air ball valve. I was pleased that it didn't vibrate or shake my workbench at all. I think this will work well for those infrequent times I do paint work. I am going to remove the oiler from the inlet and just add a few drops of oil prior to use as I don't like the pre-lube oiler for this application.


Stored under the corner of the workbench where it is easily accessed and doesn't have far to travel to be installed on the workbench.




Thanks for looking.

 

[zmotorsports]

Before cleaning up my fabrication area of all grinding debris and metal shavings, I thought I would replace the 12" disc on my combination belt/disc sander. I'm not sure how other people perform this task, but the area between the table and disc is quite tight and the instructions show to remove the table to gain access to the disc. However, that can take a bit more time than I like and then you have to make sure to square everything up again.

I have been replacing my discs using the following process for many years and it is quick and easy so I thought I would share in case someone else wanted to give it a try. If anyone has an easier or faster method I would love to hear it.



Before beginning make sure to unplug the piece of equipment to disable it from starting. Next I start by using a flat scraper under the outer edge and then pull the abrasive disc away from the aluminum disc as I rotate around the entire circumference breaking the adhesion slightly.



I then fold the top half of the disc over and place a sheet or two of paper to the adhesive on the back of the old abrasive disc.


Next rotate the assembly 180-degrees and pull the other side of the abrasive disc away from the aluminum disc and slide it up and out.


If any adhesive residue is remaining, take some acetone and give the aluminum disc a wipe, then fold the removable film half way and fold it over the other half on the new replacement abrasive disc and slide it down between the aluminum disc and the table halfway, aligning the top of the new abrasive disc with the top of the aluminum disc and press to adhere. Then rotate the disc 180-degrees and remove the remaining film from the adhesive backed disc and push the new abrasive disc onto the aluminum disc to ensure it is fully adhered all around.


Reconnect the equipment to power and you're all set. Easy peezy.


Then the fabrication area of the shop was cleaned and shop closed up for the evening.



Thanks for looking.

 

[Jgaz]

Sorry.... I have to call B.S. on that comment. We've all seen your work.

Thanks

 

[PugetDude]

Thank you for confirming my suspicions. I threaded the oiler onto mine, but haven't used it yet. I don't like how far it makes the connection hang off the mixer so I was thinking I would just add some oil to the fitting before each use, much like I do with all my other pneumatic tools. You helped me make up my mind.









Guys, while I'm flattered, it just doesn't make economic sense to fabricate these, even for sale. I don't think you realize the time involved to make the shaker and it wouldn't be profitable nor feasible. I wasn't looking for a marketing ploy because I don't think there's a market in it. Even streamlining the fabrication process by buying a few components in bulk and making a few of the parts on a larger scale I think these things would still be upwards of $1k. I know I had a little over a couple hundred dollars in parts and materials, some materials I had on hand and the other components were not the highest of quality, just sourced from eBay, but I had probably 12+ hours of labor into making one. Even if I cut that back to 7-8 hours of work by streamlining the process and buying bulk with a small profit margin these would be much more expensive than anyone would be willing to pay. Hell, most people squawk at the $19.95 for those cheap *** sawzall style of shakers.

I enjoyed building one for myself and glad I showed the process for others to follow, but I'm a one and done guy. I did it to satisfy my own curiosity and to have something unique in my shop to not only use, but to hand down to my son and grandson when I'm gone, nothing more.

I did the same thing when I transplanted the 6.2 liter LS into my Jeep. I have been contacted repeatedly about doing more of these LS swaps into Jeeps based on my posts and my YouTube channel and I'm just not interested. I know there are companies doing these swaps and I have also seen some cobbled together messes, which just makes mine that much more unique and rarer.

I figured out that I would be competing with the 9 year old Indonesian kid sewing sneakers if I tried to sell my work for what people think the should pay. So, I either do small projects for friends gratis or not at all.

 

[T444e]

Thank you for confirming my suspicions. I threaded the oiler onto mine, but haven't used it yet. I don't like how far it makes the connection hang off the mixer so I was thinking I would just add some oil to the fitting before each use, much like I do with all my other pneumatic tools. You helped me make up my mind.

I made a pedestal mount for mine and anchored it to the floor in the shop, best solution for me. I ended up hard piping it, lubricator mounted on the pedestal, as I was sick of the hose across the floor when using. I used an air hose in the drop and didn't think of installing a quick connect to allow for oiling. I may end up doing that as copper piping is easy to modify.

 

[madison069]

SilverJimmy, I have the Astro paint shaker and am happy with it. I got it to mix a gallon of SW Kem Kromic or alkyd enamel that the solids settled out, knowing I would end up using whenever I painted. I was impressed with how effective the shaker was mixing it. It sure beats stirring and I even use for shaking rattle cans.

I didn't use the inline lubricator included with the shaker, pain to fill. Instead I installed a lubricator in the piping at the shaker. I need to take a closer look at the lubricator I installed as it dispenses too much oil. Good thing my shop isn't remotely as clean as Mike's so I'm not too concerned with the oil residue on the stand and floor.

Your comment about shaking rattle cans got me to thinking, maybe if a metal cap can be fabricated for the rattle can that would eliminate the weak point of the rattle can? Then the Astro shaker can be used for all paint?

 

[SilverJimmy]

Go to a muffler shop and get a piece of exhaust pipe remnant the right size and you’re set!

 

[mercracing]

Hi Mike,
I purchased a new boat and the plastic on the dash isn’t looking the best. Would the 303 you use on the plastic on your vehicles work well for this?

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[madison069]

Go to a muffler shop and get a piece of exhaust pipe remnant the right size and you’re set!

Got me to thinking, I might have the piece already in my exhaust scrap box. Hmmm

 

[zmotorsports]

Hi Mike,
I purchased a new boat and the plastic on the dash isn’t looking the best. Would the 303 you use on the plastic on your vehicles work well for this?

Thank you for your thoughts.

It is more of a preventive measure than a restoration product. I doubt it will bring it back if it is already in poor condition, but it would still be worth a try.

 

[Dh3256]

If any adhesive residue is remaining, take some acetone and give the aluminum disc a wipe, then fold the removable film half way and fold it over the other half on the new replacement abrasive disc and slide it down between the aluminum disc and the table halfway. Then rotate the disc 180-degrees and remove the remaining film from the adhesive backed disc and push the new abrasive disc onto the aluminum disc to ensure it is fully adhered all around.

Have you tried adhering the top rather than the bottom, then rotating and doing the other half? Seems like that would make it easier to get the paper aligned with the disc.

 

[zmotorsports]

Have you tried adhering the top rather than the bottom, then rotating and doing the other half? Seems like that would make it easier to get the paper aligned with the disc.

That is exactly what I'm doing. I fold the backing 1/2 way back and that is the part that goes down behind the table so it won't stick, allowing me to align the abrasive disc's top with the aluminum disc. I then rotate the disc 180 degrees. The part that was on the top is now on the bottom stuck to the aluminum disc. Then lean what is now the top of the disc back and peel the remainder of the backing material off and press the adhesive disc to the aluminum disc.

 

[zmotorsports]

Hope everyone had a great weekend.

It was rather warm here along the Wasatch Front and I really didn't feel like doing much of anything. Been a rough week dealing with **** at work, combined with people on the internet that can't seem to help themselves and not liking it when I tell them no. I post videos on my YouTube channel to show people how to maintain and keep their coaches in good condition, but I am not doing it for side work and people don't seem to understand that.

I have been dealing with two separate people with issues on their Monaco coaches and neither knows their way around a VOM meter enough to explain how to test various components. I spent over 45-minutes with one guy on the phone on Thursday evening trying to walk him through some tests after he told me he knew his way around a VOM, which was clear he does not. Both of these guys merely want me to tell them what part to change, even after one of them has already replaced several parts based on what others are telling him to replace. I try and try to tell them it is highly likely that it is NOT a part and probably a wiring and/or a connection issue, but they don't want to learn anything, just for me to tell them to change a part so they can get on with their life.

Another guy has been begging me to build him a set of stainless-steel coolant tubes like I built for our coach last year. I told him several times I am not making these for sale and just did the video and posted to my channel and to the forum to show people what is possible with a little work or to remove them and take them to a fabrication shop because these are not available to buy commercially. He simply won't take no for an answer and I am to the point I wouldn't build him a set now just out of principal. He messaged me over the weekend to tell me he found a shop to build a set for him but they look hideous and when he installed them each has a small leak and he needs to remove them again. Like that is my fault.

I am about ready to step away from all forms of social media and just focus on my own **** and tell everyone else to pound sound.

 

[zmotorsports]

I did make my way out to the shop to check a couple of things earlier Saturday morning before it got too warm.

During the last trip we had been running the 10kw Onan generator on our coach to power the roof airs and when we stopped for fuel we kept the genny and A/C's running. When I started the main engine of the coach the RPM dropped on the generator momentarily causing the rooftop A/C units to drop off and then come back. I immediately thought maybe a ground issue because the Cummins diesel engine and the Onan generator share a ground at the back near the battery bank.

I performed a voltage drop test while cranking and it seemed ok with only about a 78 mV (.078 volt) drop between the battery negative and the engine block. But with the grounding stud so easy to access I thought I'd clean it up anyways.


The cable lugs and the nut were in pretty good condition but just took a wire wheel to them while they were apart.


That's a little better.


Lugs and nut reassembled. I then applied a little black paint over the connection to prevent future corrosion.


and retested. A little better with only 39mV drop (.039 volt). Not sure it will get much better than that.


However, knowing this wasn't enough to create enough of a voltage drop I thought I'd test the positive while it was also right there and easy to access. I had nearly 750mV (.750 volt) between the battery positive and the starter motor so I worked my way back to determine where the high resistance was and bingo, found it. I put my test leads across the Cole Hersee master switch.


And read 677 mV (.677 volt) right at the master switch. There's the issue.



After some research I was able to locate a new rotary switch which should be here sometime this week for replacement.


With the feeling of getting at least something accomplished, I was about to close up the shop and head inside when I remembered to take a look at my secondary water filtration. During my morning coffee I noticed my couple of dry spots really aren't getting much better even after bumping my timer a little more to each zone. I thought maybe I had a filter getting clogged.


Sure enough.


Removed and cleaned.


Reassembled and hoping that helps.



Thanks for looking.

 

[madison069]

So, the growing list of people wanting a paint shaker is getting moved to number 40 on the list?

I get it though, lately I've ignored any calls from family since it's usually them wanting something.

 

[zmotorsports]

Saturday evening the wife and I headed to one of our favorite fine dining establishments and we thought we'd take a drive past the elk refuge near where we live.

Holy cow, were weren't disappointed. We had never seen so many racks at the refuge and so close to the road.











There were some monsters in there and well worth the stop. We've seen a few good-sized bulls here and there mixed in with the cows, but never this many in one grouping before.

 

[PugetDude]

Hope everyone had a great weekend.

It was rather warm here along the Wasatch Front and I really didn't feel like doing much of anything. Been a rough week dealing with **** at work, combined with people on the internet that can't seem to help themselves and not liking it when I tell them no. I post videos on my YouTube channel to show people how to maintain and keep their coaches in good condition, but I am not doing it for side work and people don't seem to understand that.

I have been dealing with two separate people with issues on their Monaco coaches and neither knows their way around a VOM meter enough to explain how to test various components. I spent over 45-minutes with one guy on the phone on Thursday evening trying to walk him through some tests after he told me he knew his way around a VOM, which was clear he does not. Both of these guys merely want me to tell them what part to change, even after one of them has already replaced several parts based on what others are telling him to replace. I try and try to tell them it is highly likely that it is NOT a part and probably a wiring and/or a connection issue, but they don't want to learn anything, just for me to tell them to change a part so they can get on with their life.

Another guy has been begging me to build him a set of stainless-steel coolant tubes like I built for our coach last year. I told him several times I am not making these for sale and just did the video and posted to my channel and to the forum to show people what is possible with a little work or to remove them and take them to a fabrication shop because these are not available to buy commercially. He simply won't take no for an answer and I am to the point I wouldn't build him a set now just out of principal. He messaged me over the weekend to tell me he found a shop to build a set for him but they look hideous and when he installed them each has a small leak and he needs to remove them again. Like that is my fault.

I am about ready to step away from all forms of social media and just focus on my own **** and tell everyone else to pound sound.

Most social media is anything but social....the GJ being a (mostly) noticeable exception. No way I would ever post any of my projects on FB, IG, etc. Too many keyboard commandos out there in the ether with nothing better to do but try to make others as miserable as they are.

 

[madison069]

With the feeling of getting at least something accomplished, I was about to close up the shop and head inside when I remembered to take a look at my secondary water filtration. During my morning coffee I noticed my couple of dry spots really aren't getting much better even after bumping my timer a little more to each zone. I thought maybe I had a filter getting clogged.


Sure enough.


Removed and cleaned.


Reassembled and hoping that helps.



Thanks for looking.

Thought of you when I saw a landscaping curb company pull up in my neighborhood. They had a long trailer with a concrete mixer on the back of the trailer. due to the street they were working on was a dead end they had to back the trailer down it and where they turned is right by the kitchen basement door. So, I was able to watch their guy back that trailer down the road like a pro. It was very impressive on how he backed up very easily. I took a photo of his trailer side to keep his number on file for when it's time for me to get some nice curbs in the yard.

Oh and I meant to comment on the chunky mess in the filter, that's some chunky sediment that's coming out of the water!

 

[zmotorsports]

So, the growing list of people wanting a paint shaker is getting moved to number 40 on the list?

I get it though, lately I've ignored any calls from family since it's usually them wanting something.

It's not the paint shaker Cody, it's trying to help people who can't or won't help themselves.

I don't know what it is. There are those that don't have the money and want the cheapest way out of something, which I get because I've been there and why I became a mechanic in the first place. But they want it on someone else's dime, something for nothing. Especially when they start telling me I need to help them because they have thrown so much money at a particular problem at other shops and they don't have any more to throw at it. Well, maybe you should have had it properly diagnosed before you started throwing money at it.


Then there's the other side or other group of people who seem to have the money and just want, and expect, someone else to solve their problems. When they can't get what they want they try to make me feel like it all my fault. The guy with the coolant tubes has contacted me about 8 or so times over the past 6-8 weeks insisting I build him a set and then when I tell him to find a local fabrication shop and take his off and take them there, he wants me to find a place for him. Holy ****, are people completely helpless and do not possess ANY critical thinking abilities????

Then when the shop does a poor job he also makes it sound like it's my fault because mine turned out so good and his leak. Like that's my concern. I am just about done, period.

I really want to help others by showing them the proper way to do things and how to care for their assets, but I am about to step away all together and just tell people to figure **** out for themselves.

 

[zmotorsports]

Most social media is anything but social....the GJ being a (mostly) noticeable exception. No way I would ever post any of my projects on FB, IG, etc. Too many keyboard commandos out there in the ether with nothing better to do but try to make others as miserable as they are.

Scott, I completely stepped away from FB and IG a little over a year ago. I do enjoy making YouTube videos and trying to help people and will when they ask intelligent and well thought out questions because I will continue to learn through them. But I am about to step away altogether because of the few.

 

[madison069]

It's not the paint shaker Cody, it's trying to help people who can't or won't help themselves.

I don't know what it is. There are those that don't have the money and want the cheapest way out of something, which I get because I've been there and why I became a mechanic in the first place. But they want it on someone else's dime, something for nothing. Especially when they start telling me I need to help them because they have thrown so much money at a particular problem at other shops and they don't have any more to throw at it. Well, maybe you should have had it properly diagnosed before you started throwing money at it.


Then there's the other side or other group of people who seem to have the money and just want, and expect, someone else to solve their problems. When they can't get what they want they try to make me feel like it all my fault. The guy with the coolant tubes has contacted me about 8 or so times over the past 6-8 weeks insisting I build him a set and then when I tell him to find a local fabrication shop and take his off and take them there, he wants me to find a place for him. Holy ****, are people completely helpless and do not possess ANY critical thinking abilities????

Then when the shop does a poor job he also makes it sound like it's my fault because mine turned out so good and his leak. Like that's my concern. I am just about done, period.

I really want to help others by showing them the proper way to do things and how to care for their assets, but I am about to step away all together and just tell people to figure **** out for themselves.

That's what I've dealt with when it comes to the family. They don't want to do the work and just want me to give them money to fix their problem. The last thing I've done was the cremation of my aunt due to none of them had the money supposedly. Now it's just cousins and none of them are really on my good list, so they can just kick rocks for all I care cause I've tried guiding them, but they just don't want to do the work but instead play on their game consoles and get tattoos it seems like.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW I've sworn off of that type and brand of battery disconnect. I now use either a BEP Marine battery switch, a Blue Sea Systems battery switch, or one of these: https://www.rinconpower.com/products/battery-disconnects as neither myself or any of my local friends have ever gotten good long-term service from one of those Cole-Hersey parts. The Rincon Power switch is hermetically sealed, so corrosion of the contacts can not occur.

I have heard my grandfather ask someone "What part of NO did you not understand?"

We're in the middle of moving one set of parents into assisted living while another one has recently been moved into a care facility after ~10 months of various other attempts at a solution, and he's not happy that he can't be home and that my wife hasn't divorced me and quit her job so that she can be his 24/7 care-taker. Pretty fed up with family right now.

 

[ScepterToad]

Mike I get your frustration with people online. I see it every day. However, I'm one of many who truly appreciate your posts and I hope you keep doing them. I would also say: not at the expense of your sanity. It's just not worth it.

I have to say I've learned a lot so far just seeing what you're doing. Many times I'll have an idea of what I want to do and then I'll remember I saw something you posted and go back and watch or read. I for one have been influenced in a positive way.

I hope you keep it up, but I think we'd all understand if you didn't.

So, the main battery disconnect was your problem with the voltage drop? The rotary ones? I have two on my coach. One for the house and one for the chassis. I suspect you have two as well.

 

[aka Larry]

Guys, while I'm flattered, it just doesn't make economic sense to fabricate these, even for sale. I don't think you realize the time involved to make the shaker and it wouldn't be profitable nor feasible.

Oh, I completely understand Mike. I think we (GJ) was just saying there would be a demand (here) if you were so inclined.

When I build stuff (which is nowhere near your level) and show it to friends, family, etc they often say "You should sell these". I always tell them that I'm too slow to make it worth my time/effort for such a small profit, especially when lots Chinese made stuff is so cheap to buy online. This drying rack (post #283) I recently built for our camper is a good example. I spend about $100 on materials, and that doesn't count my time building it. You can buy a rack on Temu that clamps onto a ladder for $50. Yes, mine is better built, but even if I sold mine for $250, it wouldn't be worth it to me, unless I had maybe 20 orders to make.

 

[aka Larry]

The guy with the coolant tubes has contacted me about 8 or so times over the past 6-8 weeks insisting I build him a set and then when I tell him to find a local fabrication shop and take his off and take them there, he wants me to find a place for him. Holy ****, are people completely helpless and do not possess ANY critical thinking abilities????

You know some people have more money than sense. If you can make it worth your time, consider throwing out a stupid high number and see what he says. I know you are past the point with this guy Mike, but would it be worth the aggravation for say $2000? Keep in mind that number is me 100% not knowing what your costs are, and how long it would take, but I think you get my point.

Case in point, I re-decked a utility trailer for a guy earlier this year. I really didn't want to mess with it, but he said he really needed it done, so I threw out "OK, how about $1100, and you buy the materials?". He said "No problem, when can you start?". Took me and buddy about a day to do the demo and replace the decking, so yeah that's one that was actually worth my time.

 

[larry4406]

Mike

Good detective work on finding the voltage drop source.

I’ve never tried to do this on a circuit.

Currently having brain fade on how and where one would systematically apply the test probes to assess the various connections.

I need to learn this.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thought of you when I saw a landscaping curb company pull up in my neighborhood. They had a long trailer with a concrete mixer on the back of the trailer. due to the street they were working on was a dead end they had to back the trailer down it and where they turned is right by the kitchen basement door. So, I was able to watch their guy back that trailer down the road like a pro. It was very impressive on how he backed up very easily. I took a photo of his trailer side to keep his number on file for when it's time for me to get some nice curbs in the yard.

Oh and I meant to comment on the chunky mess in the filter, that's some chunky sediment that's coming out of the water!

Cody, I generally clean my filter 2-3 times per season, but with our reduced water allocation this year, this has was my first cleaning.

FWIW I've sworn off of that type and brand of battery disconnect. I now use either a BEP Marine battery switch, a Blue Sea Systems battery switch, or one of these: https://www.rinconpower.com/products/battery-disconnects as neither myself or any of my local friends have ever gotten good long-term service from one of those Cole-Hersey parts. The Rincon Power switch is hermetically sealed, so corrosion of the contacts can not occur.

I have heard my grandfather ask someone "What part of NO did you not understand?"

Thom, I have actually had very good luck with all of the Cole Hersee rotary switches that I have used over the years. I steer clear of the cheap knock-offs though. This one lasted 24+ years, but I very seldom turn them off, so that's may be a factor.

I try not to sound like an ******* by telling people "NO", but I guess I may have to start because they're not getting the message.

Mike I get your frustration with people online. I see it every day. However, I'm one of many who truly appreciate your posts and I hope you keep doing them. I would also say: not at the expense of your sanity. It's just not worth it.

I have to say I've learned a lot so far just seeing what you're doing. Many times I'll have an idea of what I want to do and then I'll remember I saw something you posted and go back and watch or read. I for one have been influenced in a positive way.

I hope you keep it up, but I think we'd all understand if you didn't.

So, the main battery disconnect was your problem with the voltage drop? The rotary ones? I have two on my coach. One for the house and one for the chassis. I suspect you have two as well.

Thanks Keith. Yes, I have one for the house bank and one for the chassis bank just as you do.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike

Good detective work on finding the voltage drop source.

I’ve never tried to do this on a circuit.

Currently having brain fade on how and where one would systematically apply the test probes to assess the various connections.

I need to learn this.

Thank you.

Learning to do voltage drop testing is an invaluable skill to have in your toolbox as I have found many, many problems by simply systematically moving through an electrical circuit looking for high resistance. Many people rely on testing resistance alone with an ohmmeter, however, by only measuring ohms, you can show a good complete circuit, but it needs to be tested under load with current flowing to really check the circuit's integrity.

 

[ntsqd]

For me it was hard to say No the first time to requests like that. It got easier as you go, but it takes a long time for it to be easy.

I'm not familiar with the inner workings of those switches. It has been on my mind now and then to disassemble one to see how it is designed. A very common feature in electrical connectors is to employ some overlap where the contacts will "wipe" off any surface corrosion or contaminants during the connection process. Most switches do not have this function, so any junk or corrosion on the contacts becomes part of the circuit. Which is why I like the marine switches, by being a multi-stop rotary switch they do have a wiping action.

I am curious how you made the under load starter circuit tests. Did you disable the fuel cut solenoid so that the engine wouldn't start, and then crank it over?

 

[signcrafter]

It's not the paint shaker Cody, it's trying to help people who can't or won't help themselves.

I don't know what it is. There are those that don't have the money and want the cheapest way out of something, which I get because I've been there and why I became a mechanic in the first place. But they want it on someone else's dime, something for nothing. Especially when they start telling me I need to help them because they have thrown so much money at a particular problem at other shops and they don't have any more to throw at it. Well, maybe you should have had it properly diagnosed before you started throwing money at it.


Then there's the other side or other group of people who seem to have the money and just want, and expect, someone else to solve their problems. When they can't get what they want they try to make me feel like it all my fault. The guy with the coolant tubes has contacted me about 8 or so times over the past 6-8 weeks insisting I build him a set and then when I tell him to find a local fabrication shop and take his off and take them there, he wants me to find a place for him. Holy ****, are people completely helpless and do not possess ANY critical thinking abilities????

Then when the shop does a poor job he also makes it sound like it's my fault because mine turned out so good and his leak. Like that's my concern. I am just about done, period.

I really want to help others by showing them the proper way to do things and how to care for their assets, but I am about to step away all together and just tell people to figure **** out for themselves.

Hopefully I haven't ever came across like that when asking for advice Mike.

I still remember and never will forget my sister's Dad(mom had been divorced from him for at least 10 years when I got my license), who was a mechanic and helped me with my first car back around 1995. He told me that cars repairs are too expensive so I need to figure out how to buy new with warranty or learn how to fix them myself. Think that's how a lot of us found ourselves working on cars.

The internet is an interesting place since people seem to say a lot more to random strangers then they would face to face. Even on GJ, I've realized you can't take people too seriously and have to weed through things to form your own opinion. I will read a lot of the comments when I watch a video on youtube and some of them just blow my mind. Same with some of the comments on GJ also I guess. I just take most comments with a grain of salt and don't let them bother me. Unless it's someone I have gotten to know and respect by reading their posts, such as yourself, I don't give a lot of credit to whatever they are saying. I try to help out online where I can but you can only help someone so much, not being there and not knowing if you can trust their skill level. The worst is when someone I know will call and say their car is doing this or that and ask what I think. I will give some suggestions on what I would start looking at but always tell them it can be anything and I'm not there so can only speculate and tell what the steps are I would start with.

In your examples with the poor pipe fabrication I would simply tell them sorry you had a bad experience with that shop but you don't do that kind of work for other people. Or throw out a ridicules price and tell him you will do it if he wants to drop his RV off at your house for a week. That should get him to leave you alone or if he does go through with it you can make some good money. His choice at that point. As for the wire issue I would just say you don't know since your not there and can't do the testing that you normally would and you are just guessing at this point and don't want to guess and have him waste anymore of his money on something that doesn't fix the issue. I've learned to say sorry I don't know a lot more in the past few years. Like you said you try to help someone that doesn't want to do anything themselves or doesn't have the skills/knowledge for you to be able to walk them through the testing or repair. I've stopped answering calls and texts from a handful of "friends" that only ever want free advice. I get wanting to do the repairs yourself and save money but you have to be willing to learn just like I have. I've spent a ton of time, and money on mistakes, learning stuff over the years. Like you said they want to skip that process and just want the easy way out. I will give some advice on where to start but can't give a for sure answer without being there to look at it.

I have no problem helping someone out for free if they are someone that would help me if I ever need it. I went to a friend's house Saturday, manager of napa who treats me very well, to help him with daughter's car. A kia sorento with code for throttle body high voltage. He tried new throttle body and accelerator pedal and didn't fix it. He asked to borrow my scan tool to see if a idle relearn would fix it. Told him I would come over and take a look. Pulled up service data for that code and tested the signal wire for 5V and got nothing. Started opening harness up and found 3 broken wires that had rubbed on something. Took 30 minutes to diagnose and fix and he was very appreciative and I know he will thank me with some napa discounts on future purchases. But most people just want an answer and don't ever bring anything to the table in return besides a quick thanks which never seems to be a sincere thank you.

 

[zmotorsports]

For me it was hard to say No the first time to requests like that. It got easier as you go, but it takes a long time for it to be easy.

I'm not familiar with the inner workings of those switches. It has been on my mind now and then to disassemble one to see how it is designed. A very common feature in electrical connectors is to employ some overlap where the contacts will "wipe" off any surface corrosion or contaminants during the connection process. Most switches do not have this function, so any junk or corrosion on the contacts becomes part of the circuit. Which is why I like the marine switches, by being a multi-stop rotary switch they do have a wiping action.

I am curious how you made the under load starter circuit tests. Did you disable the fuel cut solenoid so that the engine wouldn't start, and then crank it over?

Thom, for me having a side business for some many years saying no meant saying no to money so it wasn't something I said very often, if at all, so I don't have much practice in saying no. I guess I need more practice.

That being said, as I am getting older and all those years of sacrificing and hard work are starting to pay off, I am finding that my time is becoming more valuable than the money. Money is still necessary and wanted of course, but I am finding that I am being much more selective over the last year or so about what jobs I take on.

The guy with the white Shelby GT last year I think was the beginning for me to really weigh each job and ask if it's something I want to do or am I just doing it for the money? Then the last month or so of trying to help people that just want me to point to the bad part and tell them what to replace rather than actually learn something about their coaches has just been the tipping point.

I have said all along that when I retire I want to stay busy by continuing to do side work and helping people out while making money and drawing less from our portfolio, but if this is the caliber of people that I will be attracting, then no thanks.


As for the rotary switches, I too have thought about cutting one apart and taking a look inside to see where this resistance is originating, but I haven't replaced that many and when I have, I forget and end up tossing it. I will cut this one apart when the new one is installed and working and show the contents.

 

[zmotorsports]

Hopefully I haven't ever came across like that when asking for advice Mike.

I still remember and never will forget my sister's Dad(mom had been divorced from him for at least 10 years when I got my license), who was a mechanic and helped me with my first car back around 1995. He told me that cars repairs are too expensive so I need to figure out how to buy new with warranty or learn how to fix them myself. Think that's how a lot of us found ourselves working on cars.

The internet is an interesting place since people seem to say a lot more to random strangers then they would face to face. Even on GJ, I've realized you can't take people too seriously and have to weed through things to form your own opinion. I will read a lot of the comments when I watch a video on youtube and some of them just blow my mind. Same with some of the comments on GJ also I guess. I just take most comments with a grain of salt and don't let them bother me. Unless it's someone I have gotten to know and respect by reading their posts, such as yourself, I don't give a lot of credit to whatever they are saying. I try to help out online where I can but you can only help someone so much, not being there and not knowing if you can trust their skill level. The worst is when someone I know will call and say their car is doing this or that and ask what I think. I will give some suggestions on what I would start looking at but always tell them it can be anything and I'm not there so can only speculate and tell what the steps are I would start with.

In your examples with the poor pipe fabrication I would simply tell them sorry you had a bad experience with that shop but you don't do that kind of work for other people. Or throw out a ridicules price and tell him you will do it if he wants to drop his RV off at your house for a week. That should get him to leave you alone or if he does go through with it you can make some good money. His choice at that point. As for the wire issue I would just say you don't know since your not there and can't do the testing that you normally would and you are just guessing at this point and don't want to guess and have him waste anymore of his money on something that doesn't fix the issue. I've learned to say sorry I don't know a lot more in the past few years. Like you said you try to help someone that doesn't want to do anything themselves or doesn't have the skills/knowledge for you to be able to walk them through the testing or repair. I've stopped answering calls and texts from a handful of "friends" that only ever want free advice. I get wanting to do the repairs yourself and save money but you have to be willing to learn just like I have. I've spent a ton of time, and money on mistakes, learning stuff over the years. Like you said they want to skip that process and just want the easy way out. I will give some advice on where to start but can't give a for sure answer without being there to look at it.

I have no problem helping someone out for free if they are someone that would help me if I ever need it. I went to a friend's house Saturday, manager of napa who treats me very well, to help him with daughter's car. A kia sorento with code for throttle body high voltage. He tried new throttle body and accelerator pedal and didn't fix it. He asked to borrow my scan tool to see if a idle relearn would fix it. Told him I would come over and take a look. Pulled up service data for that code and tested the signal wire for 5V and got nothing. Started opening harness up and found 3 broken wires that had rubbed on something. Took 30 minutes to diagnose and fix and he was very appreciative and I know he will thank me with some napa discounts on future purchases. But most people just want an answer and don't ever bring anything to the table in return besides a quick thanks which never seems to be a sincere thank you.

Scott, you are not whom I am referring to and have never made me feel that way.


Like you, I read comments and there are people whose responses I trust and those I don't based on previous posts. Some people just have a much better track record than others and I file that away as a mental note when I see their username pop up. Others with a lesser track record I discount and move on.

I have also been finding many more wiring/connection problems lately which is why I have been trying to walk these couple of guys through the diagnosing of their issues, but they just want to replace a part or parts and move on. The parts cannon seems to be the most popular way of solving issues lately, but WOW, that gets expensive and many times the new parts being installed are lesser quality than the ones being removed which have nothing wrong with them, so in essence, people are designing in future problems by installing inferior parts.