Can/should this oxidation be removed?

[jives]

Picked up a the local Re-Use store a Weatherguard Defender 800 lb. capacity aluminum ladder rack. $8.00. Yup. Could not leave well enough alone and figured I needed to check the fasteners, etc. The cast aluminum seats for the rack legs are shown. They are pretty well oxidized. I tried removing with Rustoleum rust dissolver gel (phosphoric acid, I think. Listed on the back that it would work on aluminium). Did not dent it. But, do I really need to remove? BTW, the rust stains are from the fasteners.

 

[Steve from Socal]

You would need to use hydrofluoric acid on aluminum. That said, you need to UNDERSTAND how toxic it is to human tissue.

 

[JuncleJohn]

What about a wire wheel on a drill with a little elbow grease?

John

 

[jsaw]

How about a sand blaster using glass bead media

 

[Mimilan]

Baking Soda blasting for Aluminium

 

[OccupantRJ]

I use a blast cabinet and follow with a few coats of spray can clear on items of that nature. It ends up with a wet primer color look. I use the method as a customized finish. The bracket in the picture with the four bolts was done this way.

 

[jives]

Okay, so no blasting cabinet, agree on the no-go for strong acid, and using a wire wheel on all the crevices. . . uggh, no, does not look like an effective use of time.

Internet shows a bunch of chemicals. Aluma brite, vinegar, etc. Anyone with good experience with them or something else?

 

[djbmw]

Find a local dry ice blasting company and get it done there - it will leave more material on the part than other methods.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Drop them off at the powdercoater; they will likely blast them at no extra cost as part of prep to powdercoat.

 

[Shiftless]

Drop them off at the powdercoater; they will likely blast them at no extra cost as part of prep to powdercoat.

Around here, the cost of prepping and powder coating a pair of ladder racks would be about the cost of a new set which seems to be about $600 after tax.

 

[Steve from Socal]

Okay, so no blasting cabinet, agree on the no-go for strong acid, and using a wire wheel on all the crevices. . . uggh, no, does not look like an effective use of time.

Internet shows a bunch of chemicals. Aluma brite, vinegar, etc. Anyone with good experience with them or something else?

Aluma-brite IS hydrofluoric based. It may work to some degree but the parts would need to be submerged not just spray on surfaces. If you use this then the rinse bath should have baking soda to neutralize the acid etch. It is worth a try if you have no other good options, a series of baths may be the best route?

 

[Stevettt]

Not sure about you, but I wouldn't invest hundreds to spruce up an $8 item.
I'm a bargain hunter and have caught myself in that trap a few times.
Maybe for something unique, vintage and hard to find, but not for a commodity.
New hardware and the rack will function just fine.
Personally, I'd go for mechanical removal, wire brush and maybe a Dremel for tighter areas.
Aluminum usually cleans up nice, although that kind of corrosion can lead to pitting.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Around here, the cost of prepping and powder coating a pair of ladder racks would be about the cost of a new set which seems to be about $600 after tax.

I believe he's just looking at the pictured brackets, not the whole rack. I bet that whole tray would be under $100. When you factor in materials to strip them, paint to coat them, and the time, I would drop them off.

 

[jives]

I believe he's just looking at the pictured brackets, not the whole rack. I bet that whole tray would be under $100. When you factor in materials to strip them, paint to coat them, and the time, I would drop them off.

Yes, these brackets are the only things needing real attention. One bracket is cracked, which I will repair with a steel plate, and one bracket was replaced with quick 'n dirty fabricated steel bracket. For kicks I will re-do the steel bracket with something out of the scrap pile that is more substantial. All the fasteners to these brackets need replacing (16 button head screws), and the special Weatherguard-specific clamps to hold the rack to the truck bed are missing. No matter, I will fabricate generic clamps out of something in the scrap pile.

 

[archtimb]

Ha! I'm not chiding you in any way Jives. I have been on your side of the table WAAAY too many times! Usually about three hours into the project when I ask myself "what the hell am I doing?!". Especially when I lived in the rust belt.

Perhaps the GJ creed should be "Why should I buy it for $100? I can build it myself for $200!"
or...
"I'm a man. I can change if I have to. I guess". I think that one is taken already though.
Also the reason I stay away from those shops. "Oooo. I don't have one of those. What can I built with it?"

Laughing with you, not at you!

 

[Garage Junkie]

I used Star Brite on an engine block for a coffee table. It wasn't heavily corroded and I wasn't going for a super bright finish, so I just used it with a scotchbrite and it worked fine.