Condensation on Soffits from Mr Heater?

[Leeboy20]

I am loving my Mr Heater 75,000. Today i was outside walking around, and i looked up and noticed alot of condensation droplets of water on my soffits above the exhasut pipe and and a little ways up the soffits as well. Its about -5 (celsius) here lately. Im just curious if this is normal or if something i should be concerned about?

 

[Ron6519]

You want to eliminate any condensation on the building. If you can extend the exhaust so it vents past the soffit or above the soffits, I would.
There will be restrictions as to the run of an exhaust, so check with the manufacturer for guidelines.
Ron

 

[jkeyser14]

First thing I would check is to see if the exhaust is leaking from somewhere. A byproduct of burning gas/propane/kerosene is water. The exhaust will be full of humidity that you want to keep away from the soffit. As already stated, if the exhaust is close to the house extend the pipe away further.

 

[Leeboy20]

Heres a picture from the inside, ( 2x6 frame) and heres one of the outside. The pipe is now 3 feet long i think.

 

[ambenz]

I would put a elbow on it and extend up above the gutter...adding a strap under the shingle to hold it upright and fast.

 

[Relie]

I agree. All that warm exaust is flowing back against the house and probably causing most, if not all of your problem. I am surprised that the inspector let it pass. Mine had to be 3 feet above the tallest roof line. (the peak)

 

[KCarGuy]

That is our Code also.
A Specific length out from the building (no sure?)
or 3 feet about the Tallest area of the building.
its to prevent that exact issue!

 

[fatboy99]

Had the same problem I just got a longer b vent pipe all was good. Get a 5' b vent pipe should put out far enough to solve the problem.

 

[Leeboy20]

Thanks guys!

 

[cowboyjosh]

I agree with the others your real close to the soffit, too close, extend the flue out a little more or out and up.

Kamloops, B.C. huh? I order allot of FloodStop products that come from a outlet in Kamloops.

 

[SSCR]

What size is your garage? I am planning on getting a 45,000 btu and wonder if it might be too small.

 

[Leeboy20]

I agree with the others your real close to the soffit, too close, extend the flue out a little more or out and up.

Kamloops, B.C. huh? I order allot of FloodStop products that come from a outlet in Kamloops.

Cool, where bouts you from?

 

[Leeboy20]

What size is your garage? I am planning on getting a 45,000 btu and wonder if it might be too small.

Mine is 28x30 ..... For the price difference over how long you will have your shop....I would go 75,000 BTU!

 

[SSCR]

Mine is 22' by 31' with 8' ceilings. I thought 75000 btu might be too much. Does your heater cycle often for short times?

 

[cowboyjosh]

Cool, where bouts you from?

I have a place in both Colorado and Arizona.

 

[Leeboy20]

I want to do this project today. Since the whole piece is a 4 inch B-vent, can i just add a foot or so of single wall at the end to clear the soffitts? Or , do i need to replace teh whole 4 foot B-vent with a 5 foot?

 

[bochnak]

I want to do this project today. Since the whole piece is a 4 inch B-vent, can i just add a foot or so of single wall at the end to clear the soffitts? Or , do i need to replace teh whole 4 foot B-vent with a 5 foot?

Use B vent, otherwise a single wall will **** the heat out and may prevent exhaust flow.

 

[fatboy99]

It dosnt look like you have enough room inside to add the 1' piece ( or is the inside pic missleading? ).If you add at the other end the cap wont attach to the single wall piece.Dont remember if they make a 1' long b vent you can hook togather.

 

[rickairmedic]

Leeboy they make 1 foot sections of B vent either use one of them outside or add a foot of singlewall inside before the B vent.


Rick

 

[youbaxter]

Not sure if you are following this thread any longer... But I found that I had the same issues when I installed mine this fall . . .

I found the issue w/ mine was the CAP I was using (Rain Cap from Menards). If you look closely at it, does it look as if it vents it back toward the pipe. I found that if I totally remove the Rain Cap and simply have an open 4 inch vent, the exhaust shoots out far enough out from the Soffit to not cause condensation . ..

Give that a whirl for the heck of it. It's probably not a 'problem-solver' totally removing the CAP like I have as it leaves a 4 inch open vent hanging out form your house. But, you can point the finger at the CAP you are using. . . I'm also in the hunt for a cap that I can use that won't cause this problem.

Let me know!
-cb

 

[Leeboy20]

Cool, will do! And will post back!

 

[krooser]

The vent on my radiant heater is simply a 3" exhaust turnout as used on any medium duty truck... meets code, came in the install kit and works fine.

 

[Leeboy20]

Does anyone know the brand (manufacturer) of the B-vent that comes in the kit? When i went to the plumbing store to get a 1 foot section, they asked what brand of b-venting since some dont interlock with others. The 2 manufactures of b-vent here are Eco and Bellvent . My sticker on my B-vent got scrubbed off durring the install.

 

[rickairmedic]

Leeboy take the cap off the end of the B vent and take a picture of the end of the pipe . They should be able to tell from the picture what type it is . One will have a slip ring that slides up to lock the sections together the other will slide together and turn to lock together . A picture of the end of the pipe should tell them which you have .


Rick

 

[Leeboy20]

Will do Rick, by looking at my picture, should i just grab a 2 foot piece and put a strap to hold it? Or do you think 1 foot will be enough?

 

[rickairmedic]

Honestly 2 feet will put it out further from the building and eves which wont hurt anything as long as you strap it up as you said .


Rick

 

[Leeboy20]

This just keeps getting better and better.....I went and picked up a 1" section 4 inch B-vent. Apparently, mine came with a 3 inch B-vet. The kits instructions actually say 4 inch B-vent in the box. To make matters worse, my 3 inch B-vent is made by Selkirk. I talked to Selkirk and they said their interlocking system is exclusive to their products. No one in my area carries Selkirk. I actually think i got a vertical kit in a horizontal kit box....

 

[Leeboy20]

I dug up the box , and read what i didnt want to read. "3 inch vertical/horizontal Vent Kit For 45,000 Big Max! Great.....Now what! I will start looking for my receipt immediately! The guy who said this is the kit, that goes with your heater sounded like he knew what he was talking about. The right kit costs $139 . Could you guy the parts seperate cheaper? I would need

1. 3" to 4" adaptor
2. Wall thimble for B-vent
3. 3" 90 degree elbow
4. 4 feet of 4 inch b vent
5. And a storm cap for the end of the B-vent

 

[Chad M]

Lee, your whole shopping list cost me $80 Canadian here in Alberta. I was told that it needs to be 4" through the wall. Don't forget to add a storm collar to your list. The Belvent is what I used, it seems to me the Ecco products are easier to find. I too have a similar problem but my condensation seems to be isolated to just the eavestrough. I'm not worried enough to change it.

 

[Leeboy20]

I've found all the parts but a wall thimble , where would i get a 4 inch round wall thimble in Canada..... Tried home depot, canadian tire, rona , home hardware and all the plumbing/heating stores and nothing around...

 

[rickairmedic]

Leeboy a 4" should be pretty common . I would say if you cant find one localy which is odd then go to an online retailer for it .


Rick

 

[Chad M]

If you take cash to a plumbing wholesaler and look really desperate, they should sell you one. They aren't rare or expensive. I found that the generic box stores had very little by way of heating supplies.

 

[Leeboy20]

I went to 4 wholesale plumbing stores. 1 store said they can order it in at $55 . No one caries them. Anyone have any links? Thanks for all the help

 

[Notch1988]

That's very odd they don't have a thimble for you. What about Salmon Arm?

 

[Chad M]

Damn, I assumed the plumbing wholesalers would have heating stuff too! If there are any, you need to go to a heating wholesaler or someone like the Fireplace Centre. If they don't have what you're looking for, you need to ask them if there are any sheet metal fabricators they would recommend. I think there was one like Kamloops Sheet Metal Fabricators Inc. The place I got my stuff was ALGGIN Metals, I think these guys fabricate all their own stuff. The plumbing places are marking that stuff way up because they are another middle man, no way should it be $55.

Chad.

 

[Relie]

Chad, you're on the right track. A fire-place or stove store should have this piece in stock. I just had a gas fire stove (looks just like a wood stove but, runs on natural gas) installed and they used the same part. There should be some fireplace shops in Canada.

 

[Leeboy20]

Ok...Problem kinda solved. They gave me the right kit at half price and are allowing me to return the old kit no problem. Im wondering if i need a crimper or something now. Tell me if this is right.
1st 3"-4" goes on the heater itself.

2nd 4" adjustable elbow connects to the 3" to 4"
Since the elbow is only crimped on one end, it has to slide in crimped end first.( to me, that would make the exhaust get caught first before it goes through the elbow. I thought everything should be smooth flowing)

3rd (non crimped end) elbow slides directly into the C vent to B vent connector. That being said, the non crimped end barely goes into the C vent to B vent connector not quite 3/4 of a inch, and does not stay in there at all.

4th The C vent to B vent slides into the B vent and then through the thimble. Just so im correct, the smaller ( sheet metal) diameter end of the C vent to B vent connector slides into the B vent and is supposed to bottom out until there is no space between the connector and b vent?

5th put rain cap on....

Now, if you look at my pictures, i might not have room for the 3" to 4" AND the elbow and the C to B connector, can i eliminate one of the pieces? Sorry for being a pain, but i just want to be warm.....

 

[Chad M]

Sorry for insinuating myself here again, but I had the same issue with the venting. I ended up using two 3" elbows to get the angles which connected to a 3" to 4" increaser that I took apart right at the 4" rolled end and then riveted that piece to my C to B connector. I didn't have space to run a full length 3" to 4" increaser and the C to B connector.

Ideally I would have liked to have increased the vent to 4" right off the heater manifold, but space wouldn't permit it. I checked with a local heating guy and he said it wasn't a problem to do it this way.

The only piece that I see you didn't have in your list is a storm collar, which is just a tapered ring of tin that slides over the B vent and pushes up against the thimble. It provides another barrier for the elements to prevent intrusion between the vent and the thimble. I fastened mine with a single sheet metal screw.

 

[rickairmedic]

Ok I have been doing HVAC for 20 years what the heck is a C to B connector ? I would say this piece could be done away with I use single wall off of the furnace ( no more than 3' ) crimp the end slip it into the B vent put in 3 screws at the joint ( code ) and continue on with my B vent .


Rick

 

[Chad M]

"C" vent to "B" vent connector, or single wall to "B" vent if you like. It's sort of a sleeved piece that transitions the two styles of vent.