ALUMINUM: how to cut thick stuff...

[danski0224]

Again, use your inexpensive wood-cutting power miter saw for aluminum rod and tube. you will note a common theme...Those wood-cutting power saws work on aluminum!
Keep the blade waxed and cut away.

I think the OP has selective reading on that suggestion.

 

[madjack]

I didn't see anthing about the Milwaukee 6370 metal cut hand saw. I've cut 3" round aluminum and 2" solid steel with out any fuss. The old hot knife through butter deal. Wouldn't be without mine in the shop.

 

[Bootybug]

I just bought one from Northern Tool, but not sure of the model.

The challenge is cutting each piece within 1/16th of an inch of the others, and each piece must be straight/perpendicular. So, handsaws are an unlikely source, but good for parting pieces.

 

[ket-tek]

The local place I get bar stock from cuts them on a huge horizontal wet band saw. I suppose this is the proper way to do it.

Once I get it home and cut my own pieces of stock I use a Milwaukee PortaBand. It's a slow moving low rpm high torque monster that will chew thru anything that you can fit thru it's opening. And without much noise or mess, and it doesn't jump or kickback.

It's like this:

Here is two interesting attachments, (I don't have either attachment but they look neat)

First a vertical mount plate:

And a cool horizontal mount!

 

[danski0224]

The challenge is cutting each piece within 1/16th of an inch of the others, and each piece must be straight/perpendicular. So, handsaws are an unlikely source, but good for parting pieces.

Sliding miter saw bolted to a bench (or, on a stand) and something that functions as a stop.

The DeWalt miter saw stand has built-in stops.

If the saw is fastened to a workbench, the stops can be blocks of wood that are screwed down. Most manufacturers these days are making the base of a miter saw 2x the height of standard 2x lumber, so 2 pieces = base height and one more is the stop.

Push stock into the stop, push stock into fence that is built into the saw, pull trigger on saw, repeat. Every piece will be exactly the same, and you will never pull out a tape measure after setting it up.

Odds are that the cheapest miter saw will be closer to a 90* cut than any budget/homeowner/hobbyist end Chinese or Taiwan horizontal band saw you are looking at.

The process will be so mindless that I would suggest paying attention to your hand while making the last few cuts.

 

[Bootybug]

I think the OP has selective reading on that suggestion.

I am recovering from Pneumonia and haven't been able to pull the saw down from its place on a top shelf due to its weight until today to respond.

My Delta Miter-saw turns at 4,500 rpms so is not a good source for cutting aluminum as it will melt the metal most likely. So I'll have to consider another saw. Most metal saws cut has less than 10% of that speed. It is an 8.5 blade, probably to small to cut anything of size anyway.

Sliding miter saw bolted to a bench (or, on a stand) and something that functions as a stop.

The DeWalt miter saw stand has built-in stops.

If the saw is fastened to a workbench, the stops can be blocks of wood that are screwed down. Most manufacturers these days are making the base of a miter saw 2x the height of standard 2x lumber, so 2 pieces = base height and one more is the stop.

Push stock into the stop, push stock into fence that is built into the saw, pull trigger on saw, repeat. Every piece will be exactly the same, and you will never pull out a tape measure after setting it up.

Odds are that the cheapest miter saw will be closer to a 90* cut than any budget/homeowner/hobbyist end Chinese or Taiwan horizontal band saw you are looking at.

The process will be so mindless that I would suggest paying attention to your hand while making the last few cuts.

The Chinese **** is officially out now. I have been pounded into submission...

 

[Bootybug]

I love it. And I love Milwaukee anything too. That horizontal cutting table is the thing. Is that homemade or bought?

The local place I get bar stock from cuts them on a huge horizontal wet band saw. I suppose this is the proper way to do it.

Once I get it home and cut my own pieces of stock I use a Milwaukee PortaBand. It's a slow moving low rpm high torque monster that will chew thru anything that you can fit thru it's opening. And without much noise or mess, and it doesn't jump or kickback.

It's like this:

Here is two interesting attachments, (I don't have either attachment but they look neat)

First a vertical mount plate:

And a cool horizontal mount!

 

[danski0224]

I am recovering from Pneumonia and haven't been able to pull the saw down from its place on a top shelf due to its weight until today to respond.

My Delta Miter-saw turns at 4,500 rpms so is not a good source for cutting aluminum as it will melt the metal most likely. So I'll have to consider another saw. Most metal saws cut has less than 10% of that speed. It is an 8.5 blade, probably to small to cut anything of size anyway.



The Chinese **** is officially out now. I have been pounded into submission...

That is nasty stuff. Hopefully things are better.

Given the proper metal cutting blade, your existing saw will work. Get a piece of wood that is the same size as the metal that you want to cut, and try it.

Both ferrous (iron, steel) and non-ferrous (aluminum, brass, copper, etc)blades are offered. Get the right one.

Yes, a true purpose built cold cut saw spins much slower. If you want one, then buy one.

Otherwise, your existing saw will work fine with the right blade if it has the proper capacity.

 

[csp]

I love it. And I love Milwaukee anything too. That horizontal cutting table is the thing. Is that homemade or bought?

The horizontal table attachment is made by Milwaukee. $$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[Bootybug]

Ugh. I put it back up,...but I'll check the blade to determine if its a wood blade or what and pass in on here.

CSP,

Yeah, anything Milwaukee is bucks, but it performs. It doesn't look like much of a precision cutter though.

The one consistent message I'm trying to send you guys is it must be small, and I'm committed to that even if it creates an inconvenience for me in one form or another.

Something else, that I noticed; that Kama saw looks like a glorified hand/band to me.

 

[Bootybug]

So that I have you guys clear (as I try to find closure to this project);

1. Chinese Band Saw--out due to size, stand quality, cutting reliability (accuracty) and too much maintenance. Please,...these are my results due to reading etc. Don't beat me up over them-my opinion and I've moved on and greatly appreciate everyone's help.

2. Cut-off-miter---thick stuff (careful, may spin or jump), thin stuff all works well and fast. Loud and may require some tinkering to work properly with solid round.

3. Hand-band--interesting prospect for me. Limited angle cut size though due to the throat, but who cares.

So, being you guys are so smart and helpful, I'm hedging; buying both the hand-band and cut-off.

Which should I consider given my needs (thick round on the top end, and 1/8 plate on the bottom end, and 1/8 angle iron)?

This is folks, no more stupid questions from me (for a short period of time, anyway).

 

[danski0224]

2. Cut-off-miter---thick stuff (careful, may spin or jump), thin stuff all works well and fast. Loud and may require some tinkering to work properly with solid round.

3. Hand-band--interesting prospect for me. Limited angle cut size though due to the throat, but who cares.

So, being you guys are so smart and helpful, I'm hedging; buying both the hand-band and cut-off.

Which should I consider given my needs (thick round on the top end, and 1/8 plate on the bottom end, and 1/8 angle iron)?

This is folks, no more stupid questions from me (for a short period of time, anyway).

Using a miter saw, the prospect for mishaps using the proper blade is no different than wood, especially if you are cutting solid metal. If either end is unsupported, you may have some issues with thin wall tube or extrusions.

Using the proper blade, it will cut the items you have listed.

I have a Milwaukee deep cut bandsaw. If you buy one, get the variable speed version. I would not rely on my eyes or hands to deliver a perfect plumb cut. If you are looking for close, reasonably quick, low noise and low mess, it is fine.

 

[Bootybug]

Perfect. Thank you. And I will certainly get a variable speed version--great tip.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I can't believe nobody has mentioned one of these:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00961252000P

Mine has cut 2.5" steel round stock, no sweat. It's also a very accurate cut, and the saw is ideal if you don't have much storage room. It's not quiet, I'll admit that, but it's quick, accurate, and the chips are so easy to cleanup vs. abrasive or bandsaw dust.

Oh, and if you want to shave 1/32" off your piece, it will. Good luck doing that on an abrasive saw without it deflecting.

 

[Bootybug]

Hi, and thanks for chimming-in.

Trying to stay away from chop saws as I already have one and it makes a complete mess and creates dangerous fumes. I have pneumonia now, and those fumes can cause anyone problems, but me even more.

So we're looking at cut-off saws and band saws to find a clean, quiet-er solution to the chop.

I've come to the conslusion a good miter or cut saw (undecided) along with a hand band saw will cover me.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Umm, did you look at it even? There are no fumes, and no dust. Yes, it does make chips, but they don't go that far, and they're easy to clean up.

A miter saw isn't going to do anything different than what I posted in the way of cutting, except being under powered and under built for the job.

 

[Bootybug]

It makes a damn disaster. My neighbor has a big 14 inch and he's done with it and it's mess. Not to mention his garage smells like A smeltering facility now. No offense, but I've covered this Chop issue really well and while my small one does the job, it is every bit as big on mess.

From a contractor perspecitve this probably doesn't make any sense, but from a guy that has four expensive cars in his garage and other toys, I have no desire for one.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Funny, mine has no smell, and about 12" behind it that the chips gather...

 

[csp]

Bootybug you're missing the point that the Evolution Rage isn't the same as your neighbor's stinky, messy chop saw or your little one. It uses a steel, carbon tipped blade like a wood cutting chop saw but turns at a slower RPM, not the abrasive blades that make sparks and a mountain of smelly black dust.

It isn't what you think it is.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Like I said, he didn't read the link or my post. It's ok, he knows all.

 

[Bootybug]

Bootybug you're missing the point that the Evolution Rage isn't the same as your neighbor's stinky, messy chop saw or your little one. It uses a steel, carbon tipped blade like a wood cutting chop saw but turns at a slower RPM, not the abrasive blades that make sparks and a mountain of smelly black dust.

It isn't what you think it is.

I saw "chop" saw and figured another abrassive wheeled machine.

If I knew all I wouldn't be here talking to you, would I Nissan?!

Also, I am also finding many of these saws are not in stock--probably retailers way of cutting down on overhead in the worst economy in 100 years.

 

[mad57]

question...how many pieces are you gonna cut? and is it something your gonna do for a living like everyday? if not why not get it cut at the place where you bought it? im sure they charge but it prob wont add up to the cost of a new saw.

 

[Torque1st]

I think he is just trying to be difficult.

My 5200 RPM carbide tipped 10" wood blade miter saw works fine on aluminum, but it does make chips and noise.

I have a hot saw and an OA torch for steel.

 

[Bootybug]

question...how many pieces are you gonna cut? and is it something your gonna do for a living like everyday? if not why not get it cut at the place where you bought it? im sure they charge but it prob wont add up to the cost of a new saw.

Proto-types, and goof-off stuff. Not my living, no.

I think he is just trying to be difficult.

My 5200 RPM carbide tipped 10" wood blade miter saw works fine on aluminum, but it does make chips and noise.

I have a hot saw and an OA torch for steel.

I was under the impression the high speeds were not great for metal, melting and creating a hazard. I'm not worried about chips, but it would be prefered to have them be dust. You see they hurt less when they are stepped-on. I can't get them all.