do you really need 1/2 and 1/4 rachets?

[bsaint]

for sure.

 

[Griff93]

Yes.

 

[gbick]

The idea of 1/2 and 1/4 only appeals to me as i can't imagine having three sizes in both shallow and deep! Thats alot of money spent.

Yeah, lots of moola. Try all 3 drives in shallow and deep in 6pt and in 12pt. Metric and inch. Mostly Snappy. All on Hanson trays. Together with all 3 drive size sets in Gearwrench pass-throughs, I can confidently say I have any common socket configuration. Also, the 8pts, hexbits, torx, blah, blah, blah.
It brings me much satisfaction to be able to complete the job at hand. What is starting to piss me off, is neighbors who have all the mechanical toys, motorcycles, fourwheelers, snowmobiles, etc, and FEW common tools, cuz they can use mine. I'm starting to harden my stance. Sorry for getting off topic. Yes, you need the appropriate drive for the job. Greg.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Buy the 3/8", and see how far it takes you. It's a good solid base line investment.

I suspect the more time you spend wrenching you'll see the need for the other sizes.

Try shopping the classified here at GJ, good tools, good bargains.

& 1 , good advise.
I just got this 1/4" set through the classified here for $65.00, plus I already have the 1/4" swivel drive set, and a bunch of 1/4" drive extensions.
Thanks,
Tony

Wanted to add, 1 thing I like about these sockets and others is, in the deep wells, they have sort of a "stop" built into them, so If you need to set a nut in the socket to start it on a bolt, it don't fall all the way to the bottom of the socket.
My craftsman 3/8 set does this, (does not have the "stop") and it is a nuisance at times.

 

[Gregg33]

Yes I do! I use my tools for a little bit of everything, mostly for stock car repairs and maintenance. I can tell you I use the 1/2" drive stuff more than the 3/8" as all of the suspension and radius rod bolts have 3/4" or 15/16" heads. The 3/8" I use more for tightening bolts on the engine and for often other non-racing jobs. The 1/4" I use with allen sockets and for tightening delicate stuff (like carbs) where you want as little leverage as possible to avoid stripping or damaging stuff. Occasionally I use a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle with sockets in place of a nut driver, for items like hose clamps. I do have some 3/4" drive sockets, but unless I get a heavy truck or bulldozer I doubt they'll ever get much use, especially because all the large (over 1") bolt heads I have don't need much leverage to break loose, i.e. aluminum fill and inspection plugs.I can't even imagine what 1" drive stuff would be used for, probably heavy industrial use and huge equipment.

 

[mastiff0]

I'm sorry, but the answer is obvious. Yes, all are important. If you are on a budget, and worried about affording 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch sets, then just go for a cheaper brand. The ability to have all three sizes is worth the lower quality tools if thats all that you can afford. And honestly, if you are just building a tool collection and are on a budget, you shouldn't buy piecemeal and instead save up to buy a basic set (craftsman, Kobalt, husky, etc) that consists of wrenches, and all three socket sizes- that is the most economical way of getting tools cheaply while making sure you have all the tools you need.

Unless I'm working with brake or suspension components, I'm using 1/4". Cars engines bays and interior areas have gotten so tight and cluttered the 1/4 is nice because it can get into hard to reach places. If I need more leverage, I use a wrench to break the bolt loose. And in 10 years of various types of projects, I can honestly say I rarely use a 1/2" socket wrench. If have something big to loosen, I'll use air tools or a breaker bar, and then go to the 3/8" because of its size.

 

[metal1313]

i would buy a basic set of 1/4 and 3/8 then buy a better quality set of 1/2 stuff. i havent broken or worn out any 1/4 and 3/8ths stuff but have broken some 1/2 stuff. i also started with only 1/2 drive impact sockets.

it worked for a while, but now im gonna be buying better 1/2 stuff and have bought better ratchets in all sizes

 

[trainwreck]

i also started with only 1/2 drive impact sockets.

it worked for a while, but now im gonna be buying better 1/2 stuff

At the risk of derailing a thread, what seems to be the consensus on this? I would think that since you can use an impact socket on a ratchet, it would make sense (in a way) to buy only impact sockets. Did you mean that you're buying better impact sockets? Or that there's something even better than impact sockets?

 

[Krokodil]

I don't own any 3/8 stuff, only 1/4 and 1/2 sets. Their overlap is sufficient for me. I mostly use 1/4 up to 10 mm and 1/2 right through to 36mm.

 

[dirtrider]

If you plan on doing a lot of work involving tools in your life it would be worthwhile to invest in at least the three main sizes. They all have their advantages and disadvantages.It's kinda of like saying instead of buying ratchets,sockets and wrenches I'll just buy a dog bone wrench with all the common sizes on it and an adjustable wrench. Yeah you might get some work done but the disadvantages will be obvious, it's all about where your priorities are and having the right tool for the job.Especially if your serious about what you will be doing.

 

[bad_religion_au]

until recently, i have only had a stanley 1/2 ratchet and the assorted sockets. did a complete landcruiser rebuild, an engine/driveline/diff conversion on another landcruiser, and wrecked out two others just using 1/2 drive. oh and a motor swap in an 1988 corolla. never thought i needed anything else. only moved to 3/8ths after working on more modern fords/dihatsu's.... and as an excuse to buy new stuff.

of course, toyota's of that vintage are well engineered to be worked on, not thrown together piecemeal ...

 

[king nero]

I started with all three ratchets (1/4 - 3/8 and 1/2), bought those from a hi-quality brand.
Started to buy sockets and extensions 2-nd hand, flee-market, ... until I got some good money for getting hi-quality sockets.
Now I've got about everything I need (socket-wise, of course ;-) )

Get the ratchets first, you'll appreciate those much more than a mere extension or socket.
Also, 6-point sockets are usually better than 12-point when talking cheapo-sockets.

 

[bad_religion_au]

At the risk of derailing a thread, what seems to be the consensus on this? I would think that since you can use an impact socket on a ratchet, it would make sense (in a way) to buy only impact sockets. Did you mean that you're buying better impact sockets? Or that there's something even better than impact sockets?

you can, but two considerations. 1. impact sockets are thicker.

and 2. if your using them frequently, impact sockets wear faster, due to being a softer finish metal (to be less brittle)

I started with all three ratchets (1/4 - 3/8 and 1/2), bought those from a hi-quality brand.
Started to buy sockets and extensions 2-nd hand, flee-market, ... until I got some good money for getting hi-quality sockets.
Now I've got about everything I need (socket-wise, of course ;-) )

Get the ratchets first, you'll appreciate those much more than a mere extension or socket.
Also, 6-point sockets are usually better than 12-point when talking cheapo-sockets.

disagree. difference between good, and poor sockets is a couple of bucks, difference between cheap and expensive ratchets is much more. and i'd prefer to put up with a **** feeling ratchet, but know the chance of my socket chewing out the bolt is alot lower, than have a nice ratchet, but be dealing with rounded off bolt heads more frequently.

 

[muibubbles]

1/2 def for wheels/lug nuts and suspension stuff
1/4 u can deal without but its nice to get you out of tight situations... i only started using my 1/4 this year...

but remember you can do almost all with a 3/8 but the job only gets easier with the right tools. and since ive ran into a few pickles, i opt to buy stuff i may never use except for that one situation but will save hours and ****** knuckles. but thats as u build your collection..

 

[Old Donn]

Like anything else, you don't need them till you need them. As others have stated, anything 3/4" or 19mm on up are best handled with a 1/2" drive. Get under a car or truck, especially an older one that's been exposed to change of seasons and you'll encounter what we refer to up here as a "Michigan welding job." Fasteners and threads rusted and coated with dirt & salt. That's when a 1/2" pays for itself. On the other end, with as much plastic and aluminum used in vehicles these days, a 1/4" drive will save you from yourself. Even if you're careful with a 3/8", crank down a little too much in plastic or aluminum and you've got grief. A 1/4" by virtue of it's smaller size prevents getting too muscular.

 

[bad_religion_au]

Like anything else, you don't need them till you need them. As others have stated, anything 3/4" or 19mm on up are best handled with a 1/2" drive. Get under a car or truck, especially an older one that's been exposed to change of seasons and you'll encounter what we refer to up here as a "Michigan welding job." Fasteners and threads rusted and coated with dirt & salt. That's when a 1/2" pays for itself. On the other end, with as much plastic and aluminum used in vehicles these days, a 1/4" drive will save you from yourself. Even if you're careful with a 3/8", crank down a little too much in plastic or aluminum and you've got grief. A 1/4" by virtue of it's smaller size prevents getting too muscular.

i found (on the few occasions i had to use my 1/2 on plastic/soft alloys) that using the 1/2 ratchet head as a palm ratchet had the same effect.

 

[granitestater]

If you want to go only with 3/8 drive I suggest Snap On. I have found over the years that Snap On Tools makes sockets in more sizes than others. For example, in 3/8 drive they go from 1/4 inch to 1 inch. And in 1/4 inch drive they go from 1/8 to 9/16 inch. Snap On 1/2 drive goes as small as 3/8 inch.


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=hand&Group_ID=243&store=snapon-store

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=hand&Group_ID=134&store=snapon-store

 

[Skyline]

I haven't even counted the number of socket sets I have, but it's somewhere north of 30 sets. I use them all, and I'm still missing a couple of sets that i would like to add. A little less for the SAE stuff, but I still use them. The more you want to do on your car(s), the more you will need if you want the right tool for each job. The better equipped you are, the less frustration you will have by getting stuck in the middle of a job, and the faster you can work by having just the right tool.

It's kind of a Catch-22. The more you work on your own cars, the more money you will save. The more you work on your own cars, the more you need to spend on tools.

The best way to buy tools inexpensively is to seek out used stuff. eBay is great. I don't have flea markets or pawn shops around here, but that's an option. The absolute best prices you will get would be buying an entire toolbox full of tools from a tech who quit, got disabled, or from the heirs of a deceased tech. Even though that will take at least a few grand to do, it will save a fortune in the long run. I find Craig's list as the best source for a complete collection.

 

[trout]

I never even thought about trying to take off a lug nut with a 3/8" ratchet. I couldn't imagine that it would be very easy. 1/2" is a must.

I could see trying to get away with not using a 1/4" ratchet and get an adapter instead, but it'd be more trouble than it's worth since 1/4" isn't that expensive.

 

[trainwreck]

It's kind of a Catch-22. The more you work on your own cars, the more money you will save. The more you work on your own cars, the more you need to spend on tools.

I don't see it so much as a catch-22 as a change in investments. I can either invest into someone else's wallet, or I can invest into my garage and skillsets. It's going to cost me either way, but at least I get something out of the latter.

And thank you for your thoughts on impact sockets, bad_religion_au.

 

[bad_religion_au]

I never even thought about trying to take off a lug nut with a 3/8" ratchet. I couldn't imagine that it would be very easy. 1/2" is a must.

I could see trying to get away with not using a 1/4" ratchet and get an adapter instead, but it'd be more trouble than it's worth since 1/4" isn't that expensive.

don't most cars come with lugnut wrenches in the USA

 

[Damian]

I would assume that only people who don't wrench for a living would ask this question.

 

[DaleK]

don't most cars come with lugnut wrenches in the USA

Not useful ones. First thing you should do when you buy a new car as far as I'm concerned is get a GOOD wheel wrench, not one of the stamped tin ones.

 

[littletoes]

As a kid, growing up on a farm, I used my 1/2" stuff all the time, then moving on to doing lift kits, engine swaps in 4X4 trucks, the big stuff really came in handy.

Now, working on mini-vans and small cars, the 1/4" stuff is the stuff that saves my knuckles, or its the stuff that fits in such tight confines. The 3/8" stuff is there, and my "go-to" for most small applications, but if you work on steering or driving components, 3/8" is just not big enough, and doesn't have enough leverage to break those old fasteners loose.

I have over 30 sets also....

The current problem, I need to add larger metric sockets to my 1/2" sets. I've been getting by, some of my big stuff fits the large metric fasteners real tight.

An Example? The front hub "nut" on a teeny Honda is a nice snug fit for a 1 5/16" socket. Try and loosen that with a 3/8" ratchet. Hell, try and find a 3/8" socket that size!

 

[trout]

don't most cars come with lugnut wrenches in the USA

they're cheap, fixed offset, short, and no ratcheting mechanism.
You can make do if you're stuck on the side of the road but why would you put yourself through that in your own driveway?

 

[4lug39]

I would assume that only people who don't wrench for a living would ask this question.

^^^
What he said. Nothing is more aggravating than needing a socket/tool and not having it. I have a few special tools that I don't use very often but when you need it the job is much easier.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

There's a Scooby in my driveway right now that i'm pulling the heads on. (Blow head gaskets) Most of the work has been done with a 1/4" ratchet and 10/12mm sockets, i've used a 3/8" ratchet for the intake manifold and power steering pump bracket and a 1/2" for the crank bolt.

Couldn't do it all with a 3/8".

 

[Monte]

you need 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"

 

[GDA]

I just spent 3 hours this morning doing a complete brake job - rotors, pads and sensors on a 2007 V8 LR3 and used 1/2 drive on all the caliper housing retaining bolts. I needed to lean on a 18in SO breaker bar to get the passenger side 21mm 12pt fine thread bolts loose.

If I had tried to do that with 3/8 only who know how many tools I might have broken. Also, needed a 1/2 drive torque wrench on the lugs as very few 3/8 trq wrenches go past 100 ft lbs.

All that said, the project drives the need for the proper sized/spec tool... not the other way around.

 

[lalaland]

That was a dumb question

 

[Halligan]

I've found you need 1/2" drive more than 1/4" drive. If money is tight get the 1/2" stuff first. I rarely use my 1/4" but often use 1/2" for heavy auto work like brake and suspension work. That said I just tonight ordered the new Craftsman Premium Ratchets in both 1/4" and 1/2". I have nice SO stuff in 3/8" but kind of crappy 1/4" and 1/2" ratchets. With the introdution of the new Craftsman premium ratchets I figured I would upgrade those sizes.

 

[mrholeshot]

That was a dumb question

We all had to start somewhere. I'm sure a lot of questions I had coming up seemed lame. I surrounded myself with people that would answer my questions with reasoning and not criticism. People that took the time to explain why or why not. It's called passing to torch not torching them

 

[diesel research]

So.....does that mean the use of 3/4"...or 1", or 2 1/2" or 3" drive is UNHEARD of???

Couldn't complete my job w/o 1-1/2 drive sockets and adapter for IR-TI 1" gun. Well, I could, but it would take for ever waiting for the hydraulic ratchet to turn one click at a time.

 

[pep]

That was a dumb question

That doesn't seem particularly silly to me. If you don't hit jobs that need certain sizes, it's not obvious that other people do. Personally, I've never used a 1/4" drive socket before. Lately I've bought some, of course, since this website makes you buy stuff.

I think a better variant of this kind of thing is looking for ways to get away from duplication. It's all come up before, but things like owning only 1/4" + 1/2" or 3/8" + 3/4" or having impact only in certain drive sizes.

Jeesh, if I were smart, I'd probably just buy hex sizes that actually came on cars I've ever owned.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I got by for years as a young man with just a 3/8" Taiwan socket set and some combination wrenches. It wasn't enough to do suspension work or anything like that, but I was able to do a lot of regular maintenance and repair. As you get into it more, you'll figure out what tools you need for more involved work.

 

[tooldeloo]

Is this a serious question? Do you loosen/tighten wheel bolts with 3/8" stuff?

As a mech, i couldn't do a whole lot without 1/4" and 1/2" stuff. I even have 3/4" stuff that i use fairly often.

I don't want this to sound like I'm poking at anyone, but I wasn't sure if it was a serious question either. I use 1/2" drive all the time, and ever since I started DIY work on cars 30 years ago. And, for the first time, I started using 3/4' drive breakers and ratchet handles. This occurred after I leaned on my 1980 era Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar. Never had a problem with it before, and was trying to loosen a Subaru lug nut--not like I was working on a tank--and the hole in the wrench yoke / clevis elongated / opened up and the pin dropped out! I couldn't believe it.
Since then, I read other accounts of this happening, so I went to get some 3/4" drives from Ebay. I got a great deal on an NOS Allen black oxide ratchet (looks similar to a Craftsman 3/4" head and has a round handle with knurling instead of the I-beam). My other drive is a Cman sliding bar. The person that had it before me bent it slightly, but it's hardly noticeable, but for the price I got it for, I'm not put out.
I use those now on my wheel work and of all things, a recent repair on a GE washing machine,where I needed to use an oddball 3/4" drive 1-11/16" deep socket to deal with a bollixy "hub nut".

 

[BiltFordTuff]

Alright, this is the way it is for me, a 1/4" set is good for small things like working on the interior of vehicles, small parts on engines like carbs, or just the often small bolt. 3/8" is the set I use the most, it is good for pretty much anything but NOT EVERYTHING. 1/2" is probably what I use least, but I do use it so.......... YES you do need every size. If money is an issue, HF does have a pretty decent inexpensive socket set that has 1/4",3/8", and 1/2" ratchet/sockets. I like to keep this set in my truck as I use it on the job a lot.

 

[flatheadguy]

A VERY interesting original question. Yes, you probably can get by with just 3/8" drive sets. But, I cannot imagine using a 3/8 drive to remove a cylinder head bolt or nut. And many other operations. Yes, you can slide a pipe or whateber over the ratchet or breaker bar, but the ratcheting gears are only so strong. When it finally gives up and you skin a knuckle, or worse, don't blame the tool.
You also can do quite a bit of mechanical work with that old claw hammer.
The guys who posted above that your best best is to watch eBay, yard sales and Craigslist are heading you in the right direction.
The old adage, "Use the right tool for the job" is an eternal statement. And correct.

 

[trainwreck]

I think a better variant of this kind of thing is looking for ways to get away from duplication. It's all come up before, but things like owning only 1/4" + 1/2" or 3/8" + 3/4" or having impact only in certain drive sizes.

I'd thought about this too, but there are so many tools that are only (commonly) available in 3/8" drive. Crowsfoot wrenches and hex/torx bit sockets come to mind. So if 3/8" is mandatory (for me), does that mean that 3/4" is the logical complement?

I wish it were. Just as 1/4" is appreciably smaller than 3/8", 1/2" is appreciably smaller than 3/4". I need to use 1/2" on brake/suspension work (on my car), while I'm fairly certain that 3/4" just wouldn't fit. (At least, I've never seen a 3/4" stubby ratchet.) So again, you get stuck with needing "overlapping" drive sizes. (3/8" and 1/2" in my case.)

There have been many great points raised in this thread, but I think GDA said it best with "All that said, the project drives the need for the proper sized/spec tool... not the other way around."

 

[Hank McMauser]

One of my buddy's last summer was wrenching on his 72 blazer and bent a 3/8 dr breaker bar, later that month while at a flea mkt I picked him up a 1/2 dr breeaker bar for less than $10 & gave it to him as a gift for letting me borrow his camper last hunting season. couldn't imagine working on an older rig's suspension without 1/2 drive(or bigger) tools