Can anyone reccommend a 37° AN flaring tool?

[Major Ramifications]

Hey guys,
I have been meaning to re-plumb some stuff on the truck, fuel line, transmission lines, etc. I have the regular 45° flaring tools, but it seems that the high flow fittings all use the 37° flare. I figured it would be no big deal to get an AN flaring tool, but wow, they cost much more than the 45° types.

So, I am looking for something decent that doesn't cost too much. The whole idea of making the flares is that I figured it would be cheaper and better to run aluminum tubing rather than braided line. I know I still need braided line where it will be subject to movement. But if I have to spend a bunch on the flaring tool, then I may just as well get the compression AN fittings that go on the end of the tubing.

 

[mrholeshot]

Check with Summit Racing and look at the Proform models. Work great

 

[speed bump]

Imperial Rol-air, no point in going cheap with single flare tools because cheap tools tend to split the tubing.

 

[Major Ramifications]

I cannot find any Proform flaring tool on Summit Racing, but they do have a Summit brand one that is only $30, but looks like a Harbor Freight special.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Speed Bump posted while I was typing. So you are saying that the $30 *********** special would be a waste of $30?

 

[mrholeshot]

Imperial Rol-air, no point in going cheap with single flare tools because cheap tools tend to split the tubing.

AN lines are 37 degree single flare with a back up sleeve

 

[mrholeshot]

I cannot find any Proform flaring tool on Summit Racing, but they do have a Summit brand one that is only $30, but looks like a Harbor Freight special.

Try Speedway motors

 

[The J]

We used the one from Summit racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/

It works ok. The toughest part is evenly gripping the tube and tightening evenly. It takes a little practice to get it right. In the end, it made a clean and even flare with no leaks. I used it for fuel lines.

It's worth it for the price, but I have no experience with others. For the price, I expect it to work but take some careful technique to get it right.

 

[afazz]

I did a lot of research into this before buying my Imperial, and it seems there are three popular models: Ridgid 377 ($125), Imperial 400-F ($350), and the Mastercool hydraulic setup ($300). I bought my imperial 400-F and I love it, I've used it on 3/8" stainless and 5/8" Aluminum so far with no trouble. If you will never do stainless lines, something cheaper would probably work.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Hmm... I may be on the lookout for a used one, then. What is generally the first thing to wear out on these? Is it the gripping grooves in the tubing holder or ?

Unless my life changes dramatically, I don't see myself doing enough 37° flares before I die to justify a $350 expenditure.

 

[E Gap]

This 37° Flaring tool works well for me and did not break the bank.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=212FB

 

[scott37300]

I did a lot of research into this before buying my Imperial, and it seems there are three popular models: Ridgid 377 ($125), Imperial 400-F ($350), and the Mastercool hydraulic setup ($300). I bought my imperial 400-F and I love it, I've used it on 3/8" stainless and 5/8" Aluminum so far with no trouble. If you will never do stainless lines, something cheaper would probably work.

So your hand flare kit costs more than the mastercool hydralic one? I have never used the mastercool but everything I have read guys say it's an amazing flaring tool. I do have a snap on bubble flare kit that's made by imperial and I like it, imperial makes nice stuff. But if I had a choice between the 350 dollar imperial or 300 dollar hydralic mastercool I'm pretty sure I would choose the mastercool. Any reason you feel the imperial that costs 50 bucks more is better than the mastercool? Just curious if I'm missing something.

 

[flatheadguy]

aircraftspruce.com

 

[mtkst19]

if you do any serious amount of brake line or plumbing work, the mastercool setup is nice. the an fitting adapter is about 80 bucks iirc. will flare up to -8 line. having the misfortune of re-piping a lot of cars brake lines due to rust, the mastercool setup is nice to have as opposed to traditional hand setup.

 

[afazz]

So your hand flare kit costs more than the mastercool hydralic one? I have never used the mastercool but everything I have read guys say it's an amazing flaring tool. I do have a snap on bubble flare kit that's made by imperial and I like it, imperial makes nice stuff. But if I had a choice between the 350 dollar imperial or 300 dollar hydralic mastercool I'm pretty sure I would choose the mastercool. Any reason you feel the imperial that costs 50 bucks more is better than the mastercool? Just curious if I'm missing something.

I got the Imperial because it is capable of flaring thick walled stainless, the Mastercool isn't quite as powerful. Some of my work involves plumbing lowriders with hydraulics, where 1/2" .049" and even .065" stainlesss tubing is common. The Mastercool won't do that, the 400-F can with no problem.

After re-reading my post I made it sound like those 3 are the only tools worth buying, but really if you're only doing Aluminum tubing you can get nice flares with something much cheaper.

 

[jride200]

This 37° Flaring tool works well for me and did not break the bank.

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=212FB

x2 This tool seems to be the shop favorite among the instructors in my A&P program. Might as well buy the tool from the company which OWNS the aircraft hydraulic business: Parker.

 

[poprockcrusher]

I have used russell tube nuts and ferrels on aluminum line , aluminum likes to crack if you flare it

 

[poprockcrusher]

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/fuel/adapters.shtml

 

[Group B]

I have the Ridgid 337 and it has worked flawlessly. I'm not sure about the design of the others, but the Ridgid rolls the cone on an eccentric to flare the tube instead of just mashing it down the center of the tube into the die. It works very smoothly and it also has a spring clutch sort of thing so you don't drive the mandrel cone too deep and bind up the tool. It looks like they updated it to have a ratchet mechanism now. I've been very happy with it.

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/95C2E1ACFD8B4E039DCDEE467B0E073D/999-997-332_458R%20Flare%20Cat.pdf

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Ratchet-Flaring-Tool/EN/index.htm

 

[jride200]

I have the Ridgid 337 and it has worked flawlessly. I'm not sure about the design of the others, but the Ridgid rolls the cone on an eccentric to flare the tube instead of just mashing it down the center of the tube into the die. It works very smoothly and it also has a spring clutch sort of thing so you don't drive the mandrel cone too deep and bind up the tool. It looks like they updated it to have a ratchet mechanism now. I've been very happy with it.

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/95C2E1ACFD8B4E039DCDEE467B0E073D/999-997-332_458R%20Flare%20Cat.pdf

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Ratchet-Flaring-Tool/EN/index.htm

Careful... This is a 45 deg. flaring tool. You can't be mixing the two together.

 

[scott37300]

Careful... This is a 45 deg. flaring tool. You can't be mixing the two together.

If you look at the second link and read the description they list them for 45* and 37*. Ridgid makes both.

 

[Arnie C]

You can't go wrong with the Mastercool kit if you can swing it financially.

 

[Growwheels]

I have the Ridgid 337 and it has worked flawlessly. I'm not sure about the design of the others, but the Ridgid rolls the cone on an eccentric to flare the tube instead of just mashing it down the center of the tube into the die. It works very smoothly and it also has a spring clutch sort of thing so you don't drive the mandrel cone too deep and bind up the tool. It looks like they updated it to have a ratchet mechanism now. I've been very happy with it.

I got the 337 tool from a local tool house.... i couldnt get a decent flare with it to save my life. All of them were off center. And splitting. I thought it was user error till after the 10th attemp i scrutinized the tool. The die plates had the hole off center..... causing the flare to be off too. Exchanged it for a good one and this one works well.

 

[Alfisti]

Try looking on Yardstore you may be able to pick up a really good quality used one for less than a not so good new one.

 

[Rmracing]

Another vote for mastercool . Works great

 

[Handyfarmer]

I have a ridgid and it is a good toll, bought mine off of Ebay for a very good price many moons ago,

 

[gnxtc2]

Another vote for mastercool . Works great

But you need to get the separate dies for 37* flares.

Billy T.
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