any ideas for stubborn hinge pin removal

[steveo3002]

hey all

any ideas for this

the pin needs to be removed towards the right as it has splines on that end , its solid with no top had /ridge to lever against

ive got a few ideas from asking elsewhere , thought i may as well ask here

ive done the upper pin with a hammer and punch , its very tight so no vice grips wont do it

i have a welder and basic hand tools so i can attempt to make up something very basic

the center part of the hinge can be destroyed if need be

 

[NASTYZEN]

Get the ol drill out I guess?

 

[LEVE]

I'd use a cut-off tool and split the hinge and drive out the pin. Then re-weld the hinge, if needed.

 

[jonny o]

Spray it with PB blaster while you decide what to do next.

Remember, you are going to have to get it back in there (just a guess) so a fabricated tool to provide the right force might be the right way to go.

Check your c-clamps and vice-grips to see if one will fit from "push" side to the "pull" side with a socket over the pin?
Tac a bolt to it to use with a slide hammer?
Drill tiny hole in hinge to apply pb blaster to corroded pin?
Tap a hole in the "pull" end and bend some angle iron to form a puller against the hinge?
Angle grind through the middle of the center hinge/pin and remove separately?
Drill/grind small hole/groove in pin just above hinge to insert pry tool?
Check your c-clamps and vice-grips to see if one will fit from "push" side to the "pull" side with a socket over the pin?

 

[steveo3002]

c clamp just wants to skew off sideways before i can crank on it

maybe some kind of custom made effort thats a better fit

 

[jonny o]

Does the center "tab" rotate around the pin, or does the pin rotate with the center tab?

 

[steveo3002]

the tab with the bolt hole moves freely , the pin is splined to the right side of the hinge and doesnt move

 

[GreyOwl]

Use Google Images and search for "Car Door Hinge Pin Remover" for lots of ideas. You might be able to make a tool to do this.
Charles

 

[e-tek]

Have you heated it yet? Get the hing red hot to expand it and break the rust free, then knock it out.

 

[steveo3002]

thats the prob , i dont have heat

 

[asp]

Spray it with PB blaster while you decide what to do next.

Remember, you are going to have to get it back in there (just a guess) so a fabricated tool to provide the right force might be the right way to go.

Check your c-clamps and vice-grips to see if one will fit from "push" side to the "pull" side with a socket over the pin?
Tac a bolt to it to use with a slide hammer?
Drill tiny hole in hinge to apply pb blaster to corroded pin?
Tap a hole in the "pull" end and bend some angle iron to form a puller against the hinge?
Angle grind through the middle of the center hinge/pin and remove separately?
Drill/grind small hole/groove in pin just above hinge to insert pry tool?

I think one of these is going to be the winning idea. That's all I could come up with and what I'd probably do.

thats the prob , i dont have heat

You could probably run a couple short beads on the hinge that houses the splines. That would heat it up enough to help. Grind the welds off when you're done, repaint, and no one knows any better.

 

[jonny o]

I used a candle a lot before i got a handheld propane torch. Won't get it red hot, but it's definitely a lot of heat if you get it in the right position and leave it alone for a while.

Tap some threads in the pin, place socket OVER pin with bolt THROUGH socket.

 

[wornoutoldman]

Have you tried smacking the the right and left side of the hinge that holds the splined pin with your punch to mildly deform it and then heat and drive out from the left? Air hammer available?

 

[D KRAGER]

thats the prob , i dont have heat

You might not get it without the heat......!!!!!

I have beat and beat on stuff cold, nothing. As soon as you heat it up, it comes right out!

 

[mdbeck1]

I used a candle a lot before i got a handheld propane torch. Won't get it red hot, but it's definitely a lot of heat if you get it in the right position and leave it alone for a while.

Tap some threads in the pin, place socket OVER pin with bolt THROUGH socket.

X2...

...or weld a flat plate on top and pry against it.

 

[steveo3002]

okay thanks thats given me some ideas

as a last resort if all else fails...what if i use a 1mm cutting disc from side to side (as per the pic) that would ease it enough to get it out surley

then the center is replaced and weld up the 2 slits ..although im thinking welding would pull the gap together right?

 

[airbuff101]

Steve,
One of these usually worked:
http://www.steckmfg.com/21835.htm

They've been around forever and any real auto parts store can find it if you give them the #.

There is also an old school Z-shaped punch that I saw for the first time in years at aparts store yesterday, thought it was S&G Toolaid but I can't find the mfg. now.
Rob

 

[gorilla]

Is the pin too hard to drill out? I would try that before I started cutting and welding on that hinge, welds shrink as they cool so you might need to ream the pin bores if you weld on the hinge. Good luck.

 

[gloveman132]

Here is what I would do:

Drill and tap the end that is accessable.
heat the sections the rod goes into
screw in slide hammer and go to town

cheap propane torch (mapp gas would be better) and slide hammer would be less than $100.00 and you will need them for future projects.

Good luck

 

[welder4956]

You could probably run a couple short beads on the hinge that houses the splines. That would heat it up enough to help. Grind the welds off when you're done, repaint, and no one knows any better.

No offense, but this is probably one of the worst things you could do. Weld metal shrinks as it cools from melting point back to ambient. Weld shrinkage would only tighten the hinge on the pin.

 

[wornoutoldman]

Steve,
One of these usually worked:
http://www.steckmfg.com/21835.htm

They've been around forever and any real auto parts store can find it if you give them the #.

There is also an old school Z-shaped punch that I saw for the first time in years at aparts store yesterday, thought it was S&G Toolaid but I can't find the mfg. now.
Rob

Great tool idea! Never seen that one. Thanks!

 

[BiltFordTuff]

this is my best idea

 

[SSCustoms]

Steve,
One of these usually worked:
http://www.steckmfg.com/21835.htm

They've been around forever and any real auto parts store can find it if you give them the #.

Saw one of these for sale in the classified section today!

 

[steveo3002]

Saw one of these for sale in the classified section today!

do you recall what the title to the sellers thread was ? although i bet shipping here would be more than the tools worth

old skool tool stores are long gone here , ebay is what i have to use now

 

[Lotek]

The angle doesn't look too bad in the picture, have you tried using the drift and a big hammer? One trick I have used is to grind the tip of the punch on the grinder so that it is slightly hollow and doesn't slip off as easily. An air hammer would make short work of the problem.

 

[Zeke]

+1 on getting a MAPP gas torch. They are handy for having around. Heat and spray with 50/50 acetone and auto trans fluid and let cool. Repeat and be patient. The pin will just about fall out when it's ready. No drama or welding.

That "Z" punch sounds great. If it's found, put a link up! Thanks.

 

[BlindViper]

I have never met a pin that the Blue wrench and a bigger hammer wont get loose.

 

[Vicegrip]

If you don't want to cook the paint off or get hammer or tool marks on the door you can Mig weld a length of all-thread onto the head of the hinge pin. Slide a metal tube over the all thread and over the pin onto the hinge. Drop a washer or 2 on the top of the tube and run a nut down to pull the pin. No muss no fuss no burnt paint. cut the all thread off the pin and you can press it back in later. I have pulled a few this way.

This type of pin is pressed in and interference fit. They are often very hard to remove.

 

[steveo3002]

If you don't want to cook the paint off or get hammer or tool marks on the door you can Mig weld a length of all-thread onto the head of the hinge pin. Slide a metal tube over the all thread and over the pin onto the hinge. Drop a washer or 2 on the top of the tube and run a nut down to pull the pin. No muss no fuss no burnt paint. cut the all thread off the pin and you can press it back in later. I have pulled a few this way.

This type of pin is pressed in and interference fit. They are often very hard to remove.

sounds good , although realisticly im only going to get say 2-3 pea sized weld on that and i cant get all the way around it , will that be man enough to pull it?

 

[kbs2244]

I would think the pin is busted.
The hinge parts do not seem to be aligned.

Where is this hinge?
It is a pretty common problem on van doors.

You have to get the halves aligned.
Then you can just use a punch.

 

[steveo3002]

pin isnt busted...its just really worn along with the hole in that center section

 

[SSCustoms]

do you recall what the title to the sellers thread was ? although i bet shipping here would be more than the tools worth

old skool tool stores are long gone here , ebay is what i have to use now

Found here.

 

[cnc-me]

Heat it, then use an air hammer.

 

[Vicegrip]

sounds good , although realisticly im only going to get say 2-3 pea sized weld on that and i cant get all the way around it , will that be man enough to pull it?

1/2 to 3/4 around using a small Mig. clean the pin head and chamfer the all thread a bit to get a better bite. Drop some washers down the all thread past the pin and then the tube then a washer or 2 on top then the nut. Move the bottom washers around to get a good seat for the tube then pull the sucker out. If you need to reuse the pin just cut the all thread off and grind / belt sand the weld marks out. heating the fixed side of the hinge won't hurt other than scorch the paint.

 

[e-tek]

So........WHAT HAPPENED???????????????????

 

[CoreyVanDine]

Air hammer would probably be the first tool I'd try. But if your going drill and tap you could probably just drill down through the splined section to loosen it up a bit.

 

[steveo3002]

So........WHAT HAPPENED???????????????????

will update when i tackle it , waiting on a dry free day here in soggy england

on the all thread idea , will i need something fine pitch for best results ? and ideal high tensile ? all ive got is regular m6 around the shop

air hammer ..hmm i can see it see it peening the end over , but might give it a try

 

[gloveman132]

1/2 to 3/4 around using a small Mig. clean the pin head and chamfer the all thread a bit to get a better bite. Drop some washers down the all thread past the pin and then the tube then a washer or 2 on top then the nut. Move the bottom washers around to get a good seat for the tube then pull the sucker out. If you need to reuse the pin just cut the all thread off and grind / belt sand the weld marks out. heating the fixed side of the hinge won't hurt other than scorch the paint.

Thanks for the excellent tip, I will file that in the "I shoulda thought of that" file!

 

[Busted Bolts]

If you haven't got it done yet, try to take a sharp chisel and go between the head of the pin, and the hinge top, when you start to seperate it then move the chisel to the side of the pin and use the taper of the chisel to work thepin up. sorry so late, let us know what worked for you

 

[Stevedore]

I like the C-clamp idea. Get a cheap one & grind some off the underside of the fixed face so you can get it up as far as possible on the left end of the pin, then use a socket over the right end, as others have mentioned.

Heat would surely help, but speaking for myself, I'd just end up burning my hand.