Proper lift-to-junction-box wiring

[JohnJL]

I had my Bendpak lift installed last night and am looking to confirm the proper wiring for this application. It uses a 240v 1phase 2 hp motor drawing ~10A.

The electricians provided for a 240v junction box ~13' off the ground in the "pocket" encompassing the lift columns.

The hydraulic pump is located ~4' off the ground on the column on the opposite side of the provided junction box.

My questions are;

1. Is it proper/to code to "hardwire" the motor to the provided box? That is, should there be a plug at the motor or at the box so it can be disconnected? I dont see any practical reason to turn it on/off and it has its own dedicated circuit from the main panel.

2. If "hardwiring" is acceptable, would 12-2 BX be proper? What are the requirements for securing the BX (or other cable) to the lift and to the building structure?

I may have more questions but help on those would be great.

Thanks

 

[fefarms]

I had my Bendpak lift installed last night and am looking to confirm the proper wiring for this application. It uses a 240v 1phase 2 hp motor drawing ~10A.

The electricians provided for a 240v junction box ~13' off the ground in the "pocket" encompassing the lift columns.

The hydraulic pump is located ~4' off the ground on the column on the opposite side of the provided junction box.

My questions are;

1. Is it proper/to code to "hardwire" the motor to the provided box? That is, should there be a plug at the motor or at the box so it can be disconnected? I dont see any practical reason to turn it on/off and it has its own dedicated circuit from the main panel.

2. If "hardwiring" is acceptable, would 12-2 BX be proper? What are the requirements for securing the BX (or other cable) to the lift and to the building structure?

I may have more questions but help on those would be great.

Thanks

There needs to be a "disconnect means" within sight of the lift. This is allowed to be the breaker in the panel board provided it is within sight and has a provision to be locked off.

But see the other recent thread on this subject:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92662

I would not wire a lift, or any moving piece of equipment (such as a lathe or mill) without a disconnect means within reach of the normal operator's station. A switch or handle or plug that you can turn off in a mechanical or electrical emergency, as well as allowing for de-energizing the equipment for non-emergency service, really ought to be right at the machine, and not across the room. At least you have a chance to save yourself if your clothes get caught in the hoist, or the lift controls stick, or whatever.

Take a look at a muffler shop or dealer's service department to see how this is done commercially. Normally there's a box at the ceiling, with a cord-and-plug or MC pigtail running over to the lift structure, thence down the lift to a two-pole fused disconnect, then hardwired from there to the motor. An MC (aka BX) pigtail is normally fastened down with a one-hole clamp every 48 inches or so.

 

[ket-tek]

I used 10/2 Romex from the panel and a twistlock receptacle/plug in the ceiling, and ran 10/3 SJO power cord down to the lift, so it is disconnectable from the outlet at the ceiling. The county inspector did not care anything about the lift as long as it was a plug in device and not hardwired.

Although the breaker box is across the garage and would be accessible, I can't leave anything alone and I added a motor start/stop switch on the column so that if danger ever did occur (sparking, stuck run switch, etc) I could just stop the power right then and there.

The pic also shows the permanent hookup for the air lock release. I use a coiled cord from an air feed in the ceiling and ran the power cord down the middle of it for a clean look.

 

[JohnJL]

Thanks guys, that answers my questions.

 

[JohnJL]

Sorry, another question...

The electricians left a 10-2 cable terminated in the service box. It has a white and a black wire, and a bare copper wrapped on the ground terminal in the box.

My 220v bendpak motor has a white and a black feed, and an insulated green ground.

I have 10-2 and 10-3 armored cable on hand.

I know white - to - white and black - to - black, but what is the proper connection for the ground? Is it as obvious as just using the bare copper ground in the armored cable on the service side to the box and on the motor side to the green ground?

Am I overthinking this? I notice the 220v boxes the electricians provided for the welders and range and 4-wire (white, black, red and bare). I did verify the circuit labelled on the new subpanel for the lift is a pair of 40A breakers.

Is it proper to just use the bare copper as the full-time ground (ie no neutral?) or should I use the red wire in a 10-3 cable for ground and label it at both ends? It just seems unusual and inconsistant with the other wiring in the house (same electricians did it all at the same time) and what I am familiar with.

Thanks

 

[fefarms]

The electricians should have used a 30 amp breaker with 10AWG wire, not a 40.

The white wire in the box should have been re-identified with black tape or a "Sharpie" to indicate that it is not a neutral.

Use the 10-2 armored cable. Connect the bare wire to the bare wire from the 10/2 in the box and also to a pigtail to ground the metal box.

Some 240 volt branch circuits are provided with neutral, some are not. (Electric ranges and dryers usually are, water heaters usually are not). Most welders, compressors, and lifts do not need a neutral. The branch circuit may or may not provide one, no biggie if it does, just cap off the neutral and connect the two hot wires and the ground to the lift/compressor/welder.

 

[JohnJL]

Magic, thanks!