multimeters - opinions?

[canuckian]

Looking to get a decent multimeter. it will mostly be used in 12 volt applications but may occasionally be used in household and 220v applications. I'm pretty much decided on getting a fluke (I see Flukes in most pro's tool bags and tool boxes and we use Fluke network analyzers at work), but am open to other brands. So, what's the consensus on the best bang for the buck in meters from the higher end of the spectrum?
Fluke 117? 88?

 

[JeremyManning]

fluke definately

 

[MattT]

Really depends on what exactly you want to measure. Figure that out then buy the Fluke that meets your needs.

 

[shank]

the 88 is a good meter ive had one with daily use for over ten years, swap out the lead for a set of smaller ones, fluke ends are to big for my liking and keep a couple of spare fuses in stock if your measuring amperage. thats one thing i like to me vantage pro over the 88 for, since it has a regular mini fuse in it.

 

[tool_scrounge]

I am a fan of the Fluke 27/FM. They were made for the US goverment and now seem to be showing up on the surplus market (ebay, etc) for $50 or so. They are "true" RMS meters for accurate AC voltage measuements. They also have a Mimimum and Maximum reading button which I find really handy for thing like how low the the battery voltage drop when I started the car, etc. It will also do relative measurements. The 27/FM is o-ring sealed and certified for mine use. They are not small meters but they are built really well. One thing newer flukes have is a more contrasty display. But the 27/FM displays are good enough for me.

 

[kc-steve]

Sheeesh, you guys are as bad as the Snap-on guys. I don't know how to say this without sounding like a jerk, but a Harbor Freight Centek meter will do the job quite adequately for the needs you described. I use one and have three in case one breaks but all of them are still a fraction of the cost of any single Fluke.

I have used Fluke in my past as a dialysis technician, and as an aircraft navigation systems technician. Over 30-years doing it. THAT is where a Fluke is really worth buying. The accuracy is my point. Save yourself some money and buy the Centek. It works fine. Your pocket book will thank you.

Just MY opinion.

Steve

 

[Gary S]

I have used Fluke in my past as a dialysis technician, and as an aircraft navigation systems technician. Over 30-years doing it. THAT is where a Fluke is really worth buying. The accuracy is my point. Save yourself some money and buy the Centek. It works fine. Your pocket book will thank you.

Just MY opinion.

Agreed. I have a Fluke and I have come cheap HF and other Chinese junk meters. They all read the same accuracy. I say buy one good Fluke and lots of HF Chinese ones. Put a cheap Chinese one in each vehicle and toolbox you own and keep your Fluke clean and polish it weekly. Use it only where it won't get dirty.
You will get the same readings with the cheapies that you get the high buck ones
You can't own too many meters, but you don't want to own a lot of Flukes or you will end up bankrupt like GM, Chrysler, and our banks.
(PS I've been in the electronics industry for 42 years now.)

 

[diesel research]

One of a few times you need a good fast accurate meter for automotive is to catch the momentary pulses of things like door and trunk locks. Even then the pulses happen so fast, it's better if you have the ability to turn off the "auto-range" and switch to manual.

At some point in testing, you go beyond meters, and delve into the world of scopes.

The fluke 179 is a pretty nice meter.

 

[BQuicksilver]

IMO the only feature I seem to really need is autoranging, but most of my work is basic.

 

[bczygan]

Sheeesh, you guys are as bad as the Snap-on guys. I don't know how to say this without sounding like a jerk, but a Harbor Freight Centek meter will do the job quite adequately for the needs you described. I use one and have three in case one breaks but all of them are still a fraction of the cost of any single Fluke.

I have used Fluke in my past as a dialysis technician, and as an aircraft navigation systems technician. Over 30-years doing it. THAT is where a Fluke is really worth buying. The accuracy is my point. Save yourself some money and buy the Centek. It works fine. Your pocket book will thank you.

Just MY opinion.

Steve

AGREED!!!
I
I've gotten 7 free HF meters in the last month or so with coupons. I've put them EVERYWHERE!

 

[Krokodil]

Just look at the Fluke range carefully. The cheaper meters (117, etc) only has a (I think) 1-3 year warranty, while the higher end (177-179, 88, etc) has got a lifetime warranty. For me that will justify spending a bit more upfront.

 

[american lockpicker]

Get Fluke its American made.

 

[Mazz]

Sheeesh, you guys are as bad as the Snap-on guys. I don't know how to say this without sounding like a jerk, but a Harbor Freight Centek meter will do the job quite adequately for the needs you described. I use one and have three in case one breaks but all of them are still a fraction of the cost of any single Fluke.

I have used Fluke in my past as a dialysis technician, and as an aircraft navigation systems technician. Over 30-years doing it. THAT is where a Fluke is really worth buying. The accuracy is my point. Save yourself some money and buy the Centek. It works fine. Your pocket book will thank you.

Just MY opinion.

Steve

+1 Smart man, good advice...
Been to college in electronics, used Flukes plenty. I think I own 4-5 of those cheap HF meters. If you're looking for a simple meter that says "yeah, you got voltage," save yourself some dough. Buy 5 put them in easy reach of anywhere you might need it.

 

[bczygan]

Get Fluke its American made.

I much prefer Asian made electronics.

 

[american lockpicker]

I much prefer Asian made electronics.

Why?

 

[Coolabah]

AGREED!!!
I
I've gotten 7 free HF meters in the last month or so with coupons. I've put them EVERYWHERE!

Hey *identical* to the $5-$10 chain store meters we get here (but yellow plastic) - I also have like 5 of these (one in each location I need to check stuff- you don't need a fluke to see if a AA battery is flat vs 1.56 volts !!).....plus a couple of Flukes, only 'cos I got'em cheap & second hand but yes there is a difference in quality, for me very rarely critical

 

[RLRRLRLL]

If you can afford it, a fluke is where its at. I would love one myself! I just have a cheapie walmart meter as im a tech student at the moment. If im testing a sensor or something i will grab one of the schools flukes, but my el cheapo has been right on. If you are not good with meters yet, start with a cheapie, learn how to use it right. Once you get comfortable, upgrade. My school has tons of the harbor freight meters for students to learn how to use, but once you get good at it, you can diagnose alot!

 

[diesel research]

Also learn to avoid the ohm function like the plague unless you are dealing with some type of inductive winding or resistor with a specific value. Continuity testing is almost a joke once you find something that has continuity but still is not working. Battery cables for example. There is no resistance spec on them, even if there was, most meters do not like to go down to fractions of an ohm too accurately. Those decimals make a big difference on high draw components.

One of my favorite videos for use with DMM newbs

A good store: (also a lot of good tips and videos)
http://www.aeswave.com/

 

[rodm1]

Since Fluke when to china lots moving to Ideal's. The pros seem to be split 50/50 on the brand.

 

[Vicegrip]

I use the model 12 day in and out in the field and on cars. I have a 117 in the shop. A meter needs to work when you reach for it. The Model 12 auto ranges is durable and does not pop a fuse when you leave it in ohms and put 220 across the leads. It will auto shut off too so the next time you go for it it will not be a dead battery storage.

My bought in bulk for $3.00 each HF Centechs all end up dead for one reason or another. They are very good in one aspect... I bought them to use as loaners.

 

[richfinn]

I like.

backlit display (my Fluke 78 doesn,t have one and its the only real problem)

leads with 4mm banana plugs at each end so you can swap accessories

MIN/MAX record function

rubber protective case (the hook/stand on Flukes are OK)

bar graph function (for throttle pots etc)

the ability to measure pulse width in m/s (I think the 88 does this/I have to use a scope)

 

[Old Donn]

As an old Telco tech from the copper wire & cable days, I like a meter with both an analog and digital read-out. Got a Craftsman on sale some years back, it's done the job around the house & garage.

 

[slayer6x6]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the new wireless fluke meter yet.

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/dig...e-233.htm?PID=56054&trck=remote_display_meter

 

[jeffk14]

Sheeesh, you guys are as bad as the Snap-on guys. I don't know how to say this without sounding like a jerk, but a Harbor Freight Centek meter will do the job quite adequately for the needs you described. I use one and have three in case one breaks but all of them are still a fraction of the cost of any single Fluke.

I have used Fluke in my past as a dialysis technician, and as an aircraft navigation systems technician. Over 30-years doing it. THAT is where a Fluke is really worth buying. The accuracy is my point. Save yourself some money and buy the Centek. It works fine. Your pocket book will thank you.

Just MY opinion.

Steve

^^He took the words right outta my mouth.^^

Unless you're working in a critical environment where gnat's *** accuracy is essential, the cheaper meters are fine.

I too have used Flukes for years in aviation (and analog Simpsons before that) and they're nice but like most things, there are a lot more cheaper, yet still serviceable alternatives than there used to be.

A tip on the cheap HF CenTech meters: First thing when new, spin the selector dial around 6 or 8 times. Neither of mine hardly would read at all until I did this. Also, don't rely on accurate resistance readings. Both of mine jump all over the place when reading resistance. Still functional for checking continuity though if you know the quirks of the instrument.

For automotive, I've got an Actron meter that I picked up a few years ago that's been very good and is dead-nuts accurate. A good, fairly cheap alternative IMHO.

 

[clark_nicholas]

cheap meters are ok for 12v use but any use in house hold voltage weather 220 or 110 could be danagerous. I heard of cheap meters exploding in the users hands

 

[richfinn]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the new wireless fluke meter yet.

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/dig...e-233.htm?PID=56054&trck=remote_display_meter

I have a very long meter lead so I can hook up to what Im testing under the car or wherever and then keep the meter inside or on the bench so I can see whats going on or I just record with MIN/MAX

 

[tdkkart]

IMO the only feature I seem to really need is autoranging, but most of my work is basic.

I've been burnt by autoranging enough times that I typically turn it off.......


I've got a SOAR meter that I bought when I started tech school on 1983, still works great.

 

[Butters]

I have a Fluke at work, but if I'm spending my own money I'm not laying out Fluke kind of money. Fluke is quality, but for residential use it isn't a value IMHO.

That being said, the Centech ones I have are pretty much garbage and I've seen them fail. Good for leaving in the car, but not something you want to rely on. It has nothing to do with accuracy, it is more a matter of durability. (A broken multimeter isn't very accurate if it can't turn on).

As much as I dislike anything Craftsman that has a motor or is electrical, my DVM ($30-50) has held up well for several years. I notice Klein has midrange multimeters as well at Lowes/HD. I have no idea who makes the Craftsman or the Klein. I'm more inclined to trust something with the Klein name on it, however, I don't have any personal experience with it.

I guess the point being, for home use I would avoid both extremes (Fluke on the high end and Centech on the low) and get something in the middle for under $50. I'll probably try the Klein for my next DVM purchase since I don't want to push my luck with another Craftsman electronic tool.

 

[strnjss]

Also learn to avoid the ohm function like the plague unless you are dealing with some type of inductive winding or resistor with a specific value. Continuity testing is almost a joke once you find something that has continuity but still is not working. Battery cables for example. There is no resistance spec on them, even if there was, most meters do not like to go down to fractions of an ohm too accurately. Those decimals make a big difference on high draw components.

One of my favorite videos for use with DMM newbs

A good store: (also a lot of good tips and videos)
http://www.aeswave.com/

I love that video. Back when I was still learning about all this stuff, it was the only source I found that actually explained voltage drop in a useful way.

resistance is still very useful though. You use it all over the place, like testing fuses, sensors, and tracing wires.

I have a cheap $20 meter (as well as a free HF one), and when diagnosing certain sensors on cars, there are ohm ranges that the sensor needs to fit to test good. I use my meters all the time to make sure they're within those specs.

I would love to get a fluke someday, but just can't justify the price right now. But my meters are both just as accurate on the scales I use. I'm sure down to the thousandths or a volt accuracy and stuff is where the Fluke would shine, but in everyday applications any old meter will do.

 

[diesel research]

I'd venture to say a lot of DIY'er automotive guys who tout the cheaper meters are probably not doing much more testing than checking the battery and simple "beep testing"?

Sensors can be a whole separate topic where a few 10ths of a volt is the difference between go and no-go. You probably aren't going to do diode ripple testing of an alternator with a cheap non-rms meter either. Recall trying 3 of them, reading 32volts AC on battery. Same goes for resistance testing of many temp sensors. What about those quick tps glitches I missed? Or chipped reluctor teeth?

 

[BBQ&Love]

My UEI gave up the ghost a couple months ago after 8 years of (sometimes hard) professional use and 2 years of DIY use. I was impressed.

I picked up one of the new Milwaukee meters. OK, I picked up 3 and put one on eBay. So far I like them a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300530691180#ht_2709wt_1139

 

[Davefr]

The HF meters are OK for simple measurements like continuity and basic voltage. There place is on the workbench where they're easy to reach and you don't care if they get damaged. The test leads are terrible and will break off easily which can lead you to wrong conclusions. (always test a meter before believing it).

You can improve the HF meters by replacing the leads. Deal Extreme actually has some very good quality test leads that are pretty cheap.

The other problem with the HF meter is that it's slow.

Like others have said, the best strategy is to have a good Fluke but also have some of these HF cheapies for the basics.

 

[diesel research]

resistance is still very useful though. You use it all over the place, like testing fuses, sensors, and tracing wires.

I rarely do. Sensors with a resistance spec (usually a temp sensor or an actuator with a winding) yes. Fuses no. Tracing wires when building a new harness? Yes. Although I rarely do that. I had to build an OBD2-pc harness, and for that, I did use it to identify wires. For things that a schematic exists, I consult that first. Doing continuity test "in circuit" is usually extremely unreliable anyways. A lot of potential error factors unless the wires are completely isolated at all ends.

The OEMS are trying to get away from those tests for a reason. They often result in lost time and wrong parts replaced. (unless you get an "OL" reading, since that is pretty concrete)

 

[BBQ&Love]

I buy the HF meters on sale but never use them. "Hey 22rifle, can I borrow a electric meter?" "Sure, no problem. Stop by my shop." And I hand them one of my HF meters.

 

[richfinn]

My UEI gave up the ghost a couple months ago after 8 years of (sometimes hard) professional use and 2 years of DIY use. I was impressed.

I picked up one of the new Milwaukee meters. OK, I picked up 3 and put one on eBay. So far I like them a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300530691180#ht_2709wt_1139

I use a UEI current clamp and its very reliable

 

[Roots]

I'd venture to say a lot of DIY'er automotive guys who tout the cheaper meters are probably not doing much more testing than checking the battery and simple "beep testing"?

+1

Which is why a persons choice of DMM is entirely dependent on what their usage and requirements will be.

Accuracy, Calibration, True-RMS, Insulation Testing, Capacitance, Voltage Class, etc.

Fluke is the gold standard of technical electrical work though. However, technical electrical work isn't always a requirement when choosing a DMM.

If you're not wanting to spend Fluke coin, I think the 179's start out around $220 but a TrueRMS 114 can be picked up on Amazon for 120, I'd be inclined to just pick up a $80-100 Home Depot Milwaukee, Klein, Extech, Ideal, or Amp Meter.

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

I have a Fluke 179 and a cheaper Craftsman DMM. The Fluke is my go to meter for just about everything and the Craftsman is the meter I loan out.

I like the Fluke, it has features that are above and beyond what I need on a day to day basis so saying that it is a little like Craftsman vs. Snap-On for a home mechanic. Features like auto ranging, min/max aren't needed for what I do but they are nice to have.

The business did buy my meter, I probably would have gotten the same meter spending my own money though.

 

[strnjss]

I have a Fluke at work, but if I'm spending my own money I'm not laying out Fluke kind of money. Fluke is quality, but for residential use it isn't a value IMHO.

That being said, the Centech ones I have are pretty much garbage and I've seen them fail. Good for leaving in the car, but not something you want to rely on. It has nothing to do with accuracy, it is more a matter of durability. (A broken multimeter isn't very accurate if it can't turn on).

As much as I dislike anything Craftsman that has a motor or is electrical, my DVM ($30-50) has held up well for several years. I notice Klein has midrange multimeters as well at Lowes/HD. I have no idea who makes the Craftsman or the Klein. I'm more inclined to trust something with the Klein name on it, however, I don't have any personal experience with it.

I guess the point being, for home use I would avoid both extremes (Fluke on the high end and Centech on the low) and get something in the middle for under $50. I'll probably try the Klein for my next DVM purchase since I don't want to push my luck with another Craftsman electronic tool.

Yes, the thing that HF meters do lack is protection. If you overload it in any way, or have it on the wrong setting or something, they pretty much blow for good. No one should ever rely on one as their main meter. But for free-$4, it's worth it to have.

I know that Extech makes a lot of meters for Craftsman.

I'd venture to say a lot of DIY'er automotive guys who tout the cheaper meters are probably not doing much more testing than checking the battery and simple "beep testing"?

Sensors can be a whole separate topic where a few 10ths of a volt is the difference between go and no-go. You probably aren't going to do diode ripple testing of an alternator with a cheap non-rms meter either. Recall trying 3 of them, reading 32volts AC on battery. Same goes for resistance testing of many temp sensors. What about those quick tps glitches I missed? Or chipped reluctor teeth?

My $20 meter does pretty much everything I need it to do, except for true-RMS readings, which is really the only thing I want to get in my next meter. You're right though, I tried it to try and test for AC current coming from my alternator as a diode test, and it was going crazy, and was pretty much useless.

I've never had a problem testing TPS's, however, I'm not a pro or anything. My meter reads down to 2 decimal places, which is actually the same level my car's computer reports TPS voltage readings to my OBD II software. I also use the ohm scale for TPS testing.

My Haynes manual is full of proper ohm ranges for various sensors in the car.

Extech makes some good meters that have true-RMS for around $50-$100. That's actually the brand I'll be looking at for my next meter.

 

[pfbz]

Nothing wrong with the cheap import meters for basic stuff. I have a few. Failure rate on them is definitely higher.

Flukes are very robust and often can be found cheap in pawn shops or on eBay... Every pawn shop around here seems to have at least a half dozen Fluke meters, often the "tech school specials" that look like they were never used.

And a used $50 fluke will still probably outlast five $10 import meters.

 

[ToddyB]

For most applications I use my Fluke 117. Before the 117 my carry around meter was an Amprobe 35xp. It was a good meter but lacked a backlight. (and true RMS) I trust it more than a comparable extech. I really like the smaller size meters and only use my 87 when I need high resolution mode which is about twice a year. For around the house I would go with something along the lines of the Amprobe. Fluke recently bought them and Grainger keeps a nice selection in stock at their stores. Grainger also stocks Extech and Fluke to allow for hands on comparison.