Brake Pad Spreader?

[dragonle87]

I have never seen this type of brake pad spreader that's used on a 4 piston, but im used to the dual pad spreader by lisle
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7034.aspx

 

[DrkMtnDew]

i like the lisle spreaders myself. followed by a big pair of channel locks.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I like to just open a bleeder valve and compress it through the inspection hole before I unbolt the caliper.
Thanks,
Tony

 

[Wideopentuning]

I work at a large motorsports facility during the day and we have been eying this one to pick up for the shop.

 

[airbuff101]

They've been around a long, long time dragon.
Good solid tool but a bit limited in range and speed on modern disc brakes.
They are very handy to have for many varied automotive spreading applications.

16" Channelocks or Diamond Tool & Horseshoe HL160P pliers are hard to beat for most brake applications though.................

airbuff

 

[amolaver]

I work at a large motorsports facility during the day and we have been eying this one to pick up for the shop.

purrty - any info on it? that thing looks sweet!

ahm

 

[jkeyser14]

I'm personally a fan of just using a c-clamp. Cheap and effective.

 

[str8axle55]

I`d go w/the big Channelocks, and an old brake pad if needed.

 

[ImportTuner]

I have never seen this type of brake pad spreader that's used on a 4 piston, but im used to the dual pad spreader by lisle
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7034.aspx

I have that tool .. does not work unless you open the bleeders ..

 

[Jack Olsen]

 

[ImportTuner]

I work at a large motorsports facility during the day and we have been eying this one to pick up for the shop.

Holy **** ... $225

http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-piston-spreader_p_1926.html

 

[NUTTSGT]

C-clamp and a flat piece of steel if needed.

 

[Lotek]

Apples and oranges, for floating calipers, c clamp, channellocks, lisle spreader tool, big screwdriver will all work fine. try to use one of those on a 4 piston or even a 2 piston fixed caliper and it's like playing whack-a-mole, push one in, another will pop out. I have the Snap-On version of the one in your link, works so-so, opening the bleeder helps, and you have to remove the caliper to use it. Jack, where does that one come from? German I assume.

 

[newcastleadam]

Use these at home.

http://www.buyweld.com/9sp.html?productid=9sp&channelid=FROOG

 

[znowaczyk]

Things are junk. I bought a set off of one of the tool trucks, broke it, and didn't even bother giving it up for warranty. Wasn't worth it.

 

[wafrederick]

A c clamp and channellocks work just fine.I use these using with an old brake pad

 

[airbuff101]

Things are junk. I bought a set off of one of the tool trucks, broke it, and didn't even bother giving it up for warranty. Wasn't worth it.

oh.
well then.

 

[jjjrmx5]

I work at a large motorsports facility during the day and we have been eying this one to pick up for the shop.

These are awesome for changing hot pads during 12 adn 24 hours endurance races . Prolly overkill for your daily driver pad change but capable none the less if you have deep pockets.

4 and 6 pot calipers almost always require a fab tool or shim and a little ingenuity unless you want to pay top dollar for for a factory rig.

Most rear calipers with a built in handbrake pull unit requires to be turned and compressed at the same time.

For the fronts the cheap spreader can be used and then just use some 6" lengths of thick steel as shims to balance the pistons out and spread the compression force equally.
Not hard. Just have to plan ahead.

 

[dwm]

Apples and oranges, for floating calipers, c clamp, channellocks, lisle spreader tool, big screwdriver will all work fine. try to use one of those on a 4 piston or even a 2 piston fixed caliper and it's like playing whack-a-mole, push one in, another will pop out. I have the Snap-On version of the one in your link, works so-so, opening the bleeder helps, and you have to remove the caliper to use it. Jack, where does that one come from? German I assume.

I have the one Jack posted. $39 at zdmak:

MK-BRK-J

It's essentially useless to me now since it doesn't work on the Wilwood 6-pots and 4-pots and my other car's pistons must be turned while compressing. Fortunately I've never needed a spreader on the Wilwoods.

 

[00S4Boy]

Apples and oranges, for floating calipers, c clamp, channellocks, lisle spreader tool, big screwdriver will all work fine. try to use one of those on a 4 piston or even a 2 piston fixed caliper and it's like playing whack-a-mole, push one in, another will pop out. I have the Snap-On version of the one in your link, works so-so, opening the bleeder helps, and you have to remove the caliper to use it. Jack, where does that one come from? German I assume.

Actually easy trick just get like a 10-12" pair of channel locks compress both piston. When reinstalling install the pad in the compressed piston, compress the other piston install the second pad.

I find it kind of funny how so many people who have posted in the thread have not seen fixed calipers, or turn back ones. I'd love to see the looks on their faces if they saw ford reverse turn back ones, or euro electronic turn back ones.

 

[Simplespeed]

Big screwdriver works on almost every car. When it doesnt, use 2 big screwdrivers. Save your money for something shiny.

 

[jjjrmx5]

I'd love to see the looks on their faces if they saw ford reverse turn back ones, or euro electronic turn back ones.

I get it all the time from the newer Audi A4 B6's and up owners and non Euro knowledgeable mechanics where you need the VAG-COM to deal with piston turn-back.

 

[Simplespeed]

I heart my mkiv GTI because it is so simple.

 

[AZ_Catskinner]

I've got a Lisle that I modified slightly that works great. Broke off the knob and welded an old socket in it's place. Now I've got a ratcheting pad spreader, with my choice of comfortable handles. Some days it's an SK, sometimes a Snapon, it's been a Mac on a few occasions, and once it even got the air ratchet put on it.

 

[GTVi]

For non professional use, Vice Grips. C-clamp, screw drivers...they all work fine, no need to buy a fancy tool....
Do take off the lid off the brake reservoir, it helps...and careful it doesn't spill.
Don't loosen the brake bleed ******, you risk getting air into the system. Although if your changing pads its always a good idea to bleed your brakes anyway, and top up the reservoir.

If its something that you need to use several times a day for professional use, then I like the idea of a ratcheting pad spreader.

 

[ponchopower]

Actually easy trick just get like a 10-12" pair of channel locks compress both piston. When reinstalling install the pad in the compressed piston, compress the other piston install the second pad.

I find it kind of funny how so many people who have posted in the thread have not seen fixed calipers, or turn back ones. I'd love to see the looks on their faces if they saw ford reverse turn back ones, or euro electronic turn back ones.

Not so fast, Batman. I'm runing 6 piston forged non-floating calipers on one car. Each side has 3 progressive sized pistons and one pad. Your solution flat doesn't work. Period.

 

[Steve_P]

Does anyone have this spreader? I was thinking about getting it and was looking for reviews.

All the "use a c-clamp" answers just won't cut it on today's fancy painted calipers.

 

[ptab01]

Channelocks c clamps and the old pad work fine for me
though i own the lisle single and duel spreader.
when I get a four wheel job i dig them out

 

[amt]

Big screwdriver works on almost every car. When it doesnt, use 2 big screwdrivers. Save your money for something shiny.

Absolutely. Leave caliper on, wedge in the screwdriver, on each side if necessary, then remove pads without removing caliper (if you have good calipers) or unbolt caliper, etc. I never understood the need for a special tool for this.

 

[neverenoughtools]

I have that spreader......it works flawlessly

 

[sparky7]

Who makes this?

 

[Lotek]

Absolutely. Leave caliper on, wedge in the screwdriver, on each side if necessary, then remove pads without removing caliper (if you have good calipers) or unbolt caliper, etc. I never understood the need for a special tool for this.

That's the difference between a pro and a shadetree...

You just can't do that on painted calipers, ceramic rotors, and many of the other brake systems on modern cars.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Who makes this?

I got mine a while ago. It looks like it's a $50 tool, now. (Although it also comes with a 4mm drift pin.)

ZDMAK Link.

It works very well for my four-piston calipers. With my track car, I can measure the lifespan of pads in hours, so this has come in handy.

 

[Simplespeed]

That's the difference between a pro and a shadetree...

You just can't do that on painted calipers, ceramic rotors, and many of the other brake systems on modern cars.

Your not prying on the rotor, you prying on the back of the outer pad, and the only part of the caliper being touched is inside the viewing ports. Most cars dont require enough force to damage any paint made strong enough to last on calipers anyway. If they do then you could just crack a bleeder and then bleed the lines after. Its better that way anyway since compressing the caliper with the bleeder closed only forces whatever **** is in the line towards the ABS. If i do ever need something slower ill use my rear brake caliper kit with an old pad, or my pistol grip double pad spreader for a 4 or 6 piston painted caliper which i might see once every other year. But for quickness, and less tools on my roll cart i use screwdrivers. Iv never had a problem.

 

[Rusty67]

Apples and oranges, for floating calipers, c clamp, channellocks, lisle spreader tool, big screwdriver will all work fine. try to use one of those on a 4 piston or even a 2 piston fixed caliper and it's like playing whack-a-mole, push one in, another will pop out. I have the Snap-On version of the one in your link, works so-so, opening the bleeder helps, and you have to remove the caliper to use it. Jack, where does that one come from? German I assume.

I have the exact same tool. It works great. I usually pull the rotor off and then bolt the caliper back on. I think your problem with the tool is that the caliper flops around when you are pressing the pads back in, if the caliper is held solid while you are doing it then all of the force you generate goes into retracking the pistons. I did have some issues with it before I started bolting the caliper back to the spindle, since then it has worked like a champ for me.

 

[Lotek]

Your not prying on the rotor, you prying on the back of the outer pad, and the only part of the caliper being touched is inside the viewing ports. Most cars dont require enough force to damage any paint made strong enough to last on calipers anyway. If they do then you could just crack a bleeder and then bleed the lines after. Its better that way anyway since compressing the caliper with the bleeder closed only forces whatever **** is in the line towards the ABS. If i do ever need something slower ill use my rear brake caliper kit with an old pad, or my pistol grip double pad spreader for a 4 or 6 piston painted caliper which i might see once every other year. But for quickness, and less tools on my roll cart i use screwdrivers. Iv never had a problem(Yet).

You are still prying on the rotor, which is a no no for ceramic, and you risk cocking the piston. I have Corvette customers who go over thier car with a fine tooth comb, scratches anywhere will get a complaint.

 

[I can fix anything]

i like the lisle spreaders myself. followed by a big pair of channel locks.

I`d go w/the big Channelocks, and an old brake pad if needed.

C-clamp and a flat piece of steel if needed.

Did anyone think that they might be made for a specific purpose?


I would like to see yall use c-clamps and pliers to press these

 

[Simplespeed]

You are still prying on the rotor, which is a no no for ceramic, and you risk cocking the piston. I have Corvette customers who go over thier car with a fine tooth comb, scratches anywhere will get a complaint.

Ah i see what your saying about cocking the piston. I never had a problem with it though. I guess that could result from using anything but the correct tool. And i didnt think think that the small amount of force could damage a ceramic rotor if there is a pad between the rotor and screwdriver, even if the force is only on one side. I mean, caliper pressures are often 300 and 400 psi. I takes near nothing to compress it with a screwdriver.

 

[dragonle87]

Did anyone think that they might be made for a specific purpose?


I would like to see yall use c-clamps and pliers to press these

So that's when the scissor type pad spreader comes in handy

 

[Rusty67]

If you have a pad between the rotor and the screw driver then what is between the piston and the screw driver ? Gotta be careful, you might mar the piston.....