tig
Well-known member
Loving following this thread Jack! Great work.
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage
- Thread starter Jack Olsen
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
Hi Jack,
Your lift project is coming along nicely. Are you going to use redi-mix or roll your own? Also; looking at the floor I am thinking you should tile the lift platform and have a really stealth hoist.
Congrats on you new baby.
Steve
Your lift project is coming along nicely. Are you going to use redi-mix or roll your own? Also; looking at the floor I am thinking you should tile the lift platform and have a really stealth hoist.
Congrats on you new baby.
Steve
OP
Yes, the plan is to mix my own -- it's less than half a yard, and there would be no way to get a truck within 80' of the garage. I'll be drilling into the existing slab to tie in 1/2" rebar and also having the new concrete slip under the edge of the old.
The top platform of the lift will get tile, so most of the time it will be completely invisible.
The top platform of the lift will get tile, so most of the time it will be completely invisible.
markviii
Well-known member
Don't you know by now that Jack has magic powers? Having a good eye for detail and scale also helps, especially when driving. Good job, Jack.
Chris
Chris
OP
Getting the car over the hole with only about an inch on each side for the edges of those front tires to run on was a leap of faith -- but the worst that was going to happen was going to be jacking it back up if it fell in.
I'm trying to figure now if it would have been helpful to have an extra set of hands. It's only a 25 square foot hole. Aside from lifting the concrete -- which I cheated by rolling and levering more than lifting -- I think it wouldn't have gone any faster with a helper.
But now, the digging and the disposal... Have I mentioned that I don't even own a wheelbarrow? But I've got a plan. I've been lucky enough to never hurt my back in my 40-something years, and I don't want to mess that record up now.
I'm trying to figure now if it would have been helpful to have an extra set of hands. It's only a 25 square foot hole. Aside from lifting the concrete -- which I cheated by rolling and levering more than lifting -- I think it wouldn't have gone any faster with a helper.
But now, the digging and the disposal... Have I mentioned that I don't even own a wheelbarrow? But I've got a plan. I've been lucky enough to never hurt my back in my 40-something years, and I don't want to mess that record up now.
wrigh003
Well-known member
Jack- how does the $.68 tile do when it gets wet? I got a new job and the carport conversion-to-garage is probably back on the agenda- in lieu of cutting out and repouring cement, I'm thinking of tiling over the old/badly finished concrete. Is it too slick for daily driver parking (meaning will rain make my kids fall all over themselves getting out of the car)?
OP
No, it's not slippery. It's rated for commercial outdoor use -- there's a minimum coefficient of friction it needs to test at. But check whatever tile you're thinking of getting before you buy it. Tile is rated for hardness, coefficient of friction, and moisture content (which determines if the tile can freeze and thaw.)
Dug some dirt this morning. You know how people bury murder victims in movies by digging a six-foot-deep grave? I defy any screenwriter to move that much earth in a night. Oof.
This is about 1/3 of the dirt I removed.
And here's the hole where I'm test fitting the rebar and mesh. The piece of metal on the bottom was just to stand on. This isn't even the final shape of the dig, but I've got to get rid of some of the dirt before I go back in and take out the rest.
It's currently a little over 16" deep.
Next up, the wooden forms.
It's even scarier rolling the car over the pit now that it's 16" deep.
Dug some dirt this morning. You know how people bury murder victims in movies by digging a six-foot-deep grave? I defy any screenwriter to move that much earth in a night. Oof.
This is about 1/3 of the dirt I removed.
And here's the hole where I'm test fitting the rebar and mesh. The piece of metal on the bottom was just to stand on. This isn't even the final shape of the dig, but I've got to get rid of some of the dirt before I go back in and take out the rest.
It's currently a little over 16" deep.
Next up, the wooden forms.
It's even scarier rolling the car over the pit now that it's 16" deep.
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If you want to, you could lay some sturdy boards over the hole when you roll the car in, that is what I would do at least. I figure some wide, sturdy 2Xwhatevers would be pretty cheap insurance.
Just a thought from someone who does NOT like seeing something go wrong with a nice (or even crappy!) vehicle.
Think a couple 2X10 under the wheels, which in turn are on top of cross pieces? Not very graceful, but it might work.
::EDIT:: Or you could sell the car, and get a motorcycle, those are smaller and *usually* easier to park. Lots of fun as well!
Just a thought from someone who does NOT like seeing something go wrong with a nice (or even crappy!) vehicle.
Think a couple 2X10 under the wheels, which in turn are on top of cross pieces? Not very graceful, but it might work.
::EDIT:: Or you could sell the car, and get a motorcycle, those are smaller and *usually* easier to park. Lots of fun as well!
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ct71rr
Well-known member
Nice work Jack. I had the concrete saw out last weekend to cut my foundation. It's amazing how easily those saws cut concrete. My foundation averages about 12" thick and the saw cut it like butter. I also had to dig out the area for the new wall by hand...I feel your pain. I took me about 3 hours. How high does the lift go?
OP
I'm simply pushing the car back and forth now -- not even starting it. If I laid boards down, I'd have to start it up. And honestly, I'm not that good a driver.
I double-check each time I move it, and it's a safer margin than the picture suggests.
I saw your thread, and I feel YOUR pain -- having to cut and re-do such a big section of your foundation.
The lift only goes up 36". But that works with my garage door height.
Ha! Like most of what I do, it's definitely fits and starts. I'm out of commission for ten days as of next weekend, so there's a chance I'll get the concrete in before then and then it will be able to take a pretty good set before I do any heavy moving on top of it. But we'll see. The tiling is going to be a pain, since there will be a lot of new cuts to accommodate the gap and I'd like to find some way to reinforce the edge, at least on the lift side.
And then there's the day job.
But I'll keep plugging away. It's always hard to predict. Today, I spent a lot of time with the family at a Thomas-the-Tank-Engine festival an hour and a half away from here. No garage time at all.
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Ahh, pushing can indeed be precise, just throwing ideas out that *might* be useful. After all I'm lazy, and if I can make my life (or others) easier through some little trick, then I'm all for it.
I would be nervous doing what you are doing, but then again, I was showing the kids next door how the hard bags on my Duck work, and their grandma was nervous they might do some damage. (I was more concerned that they might hurt themselves!)
::EDIT:: Then again, maybe she is nervous her grandkids will grow up to want bikes, I know a couple of the dads on the street have appreciated me showing my stuff off to their kids, they just don't want their wives to get wind that they encouraged it!
I would be nervous doing what you are doing, but then again, I was showing the kids next door how the hard bags on my Duck work, and their grandma was nervous they might do some damage. (I was more concerned that they might hurt themselves!)
::EDIT:: Then again, maybe she is nervous her grandkids will grow up to want bikes, I know a couple of the dads on the street have appreciated me showing my stuff off to their kids, they just don't want their wives to get wind that they encouraged it!
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kbuhagiar
Well-known member
Jack, always a pleasure reading your posts. Keep up the good work.
Question: What is the capacity of the lift? And if you don't mind saying, how much did it cost?
Cheers, Ken
OP
Well, it's only for my race car. The capacity is 3000# and the car weighs just a little over 2000#. But that capacity is slightly misleading -- the same table structure is used on tables with more than double the capacity, and the hydraulics on a lift table have to work on a tougher duty cycle than vehicle lifts, generally speaking.)
Q: Why spend good money on a lift you won't be using with your other cars?
A: Because it was only $455 out the door. (It retails for a lot more than that -- closer to $3000.)
But it's one thing in my garage that I would not recommend to other guys -- unless their situation is really exactly identical to mine.
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mrstang69
Well-known member
maybe I missed it but do you have a pic of the lift? Great thread as usual.
Krokodil
Well-known member
Hi Jack, always a treat to look at the awesome work you do in your garage!
OP
It's a hydraulic lift table. On the plus side, it's American-made, stout enough to take regular hits from a forklift, and also (with some digging) concealable in the floor of my garage.
However... on the 'this idea isn't for others' side of things, it would only work if your car has a flat belly pan with no exhaust (like an old 911) and is lightweight (like an old 911).
For my application, it was either this or no lift at all. I don't have the floor space for a two- or four-post lift. And I couldn't continue to use my fold-down benches if I dug a big enough hole for a traditional mid-rise scissor lift.
The more sensible way to do it is with a lift designed for the task. Here's a thread about somebody doing the job right.
Zeke
Well-known member
I know you're gonna tile the top of the lift. When lowered flush to the floor, that will look really good. The idea that the top will have high pressure points as it contacts the car is a consideration. I suppose you could lay a couple layers of old carpet on the lift platform first to try and distribute the load. In fact, cardboard or plywood will be good alternatives.
RE the edge, I'd use angle iron. That will outline the platform which could be a good thing or not so good of a thing if you want the lift to go unnoticed. If you do put something on the edge, I'd weld it or bolt it to the platform edges just off the tile so that no pressure will be born be the tile edges. This will certainly be a tripping point in the floor.
Another way would be to build that steel frame ahead of tiling and tile into the shape keeping everything nice and flush. To this end, I think I'd pour the slab under the lift slightly lower than needed so that you can shim the lift up and down to level it (or square it up with the existing floor) thus being able to accommodate various approaches to the final product.
Thinking this even further, you cold use a flat bar perimeter making a tray for tile and having a sturdy edge. This option would show up the least in the floor. That might be the winner.
I see epoxy thin sets and grouts that are fork lift rated. I'm sure you are aware of those.
RE the edge, I'd use angle iron. That will outline the platform which could be a good thing or not so good of a thing if you want the lift to go unnoticed. If you do put something on the edge, I'd weld it or bolt it to the platform edges just off the tile so that no pressure will be born be the tile edges. This will certainly be a tripping point in the floor.
Another way would be to build that steel frame ahead of tiling and tile into the shape keeping everything nice and flush. To this end, I think I'd pour the slab under the lift slightly lower than needed so that you can shim the lift up and down to level it (or square it up with the existing floor) thus being able to accommodate various approaches to the final product.
Thinking this even further, you cold use a flat bar perimeter making a tray for tile and having a sturdy edge. This option would show up the least in the floor. That might be the winner.
I see epoxy thin sets and grouts that are fork lift rated. I'm sure you are aware of those.
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OP
Thanks, Milt. Yes, the plan is to use padding between the tiles and the car. I have some stuff that I tested with it that works pretty well. And I've got some 1"x1/8" steel I can weld around the perimeter of he top.
On the floor side, though, I think I'm going to have to just find a way to bevel the edges lightly. But the table top edge is the one that will benefit the most from a little protection.
And yes, I'm adding about 1/2" extra depth so that I'll have to shim the bottom of the lift before it's bolted into place. That'll be a lot easier than trying to remove material if I get the measurements wrong.
On the floor side, though, I think I'm going to have to just find a way to bevel the edges lightly. But the table top edge is the one that will benefit the most from a little protection.
And yes, I'm adding about 1/2" extra depth so that I'll have to shim the bottom of the lift before it's bolted into place. That'll be a lot easier than trying to remove material if I get the measurements wrong.
OP
All right. Monday's over and here's the recipe: 1 oz gin, 1 oz Cointreau, 1 oz Lillet Blanc, 1 oz lemon juice, 3 drops Herbsaint (or absinthe, or pastis). Shake all ingredients together with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish by dropping in a stemless Maraschino cherry.
It's just a shame that there isn't a similar cocktail designed for cars, as my 28-year-old Jeep deserves something for the work it did today, too.
First up, 1,100 pounds of concrete and 2,000-2,500 pounds of clay are now gone. It took three trips and the poor suspension on the Jeep was down very low. But all the concrete I cut out and all the clay I dug out are no longer sitting around in trash cans and tubs and the back of the poor Jeep.
Then two trips to Home Depot for 24 bags of Quikrete. These are the 90 pound bags that only Home Depot seems to carry. I wish they would have carried them for me to the Jeep.
Then I started removing tiles -- first, it was just the ones that bordered on the hole I cut. Then it was the ones damaged as I got tired and sloppy while removing the first set. Some had welding scars on them, so I figured why not. They were not easy to get up. And I've still got some work ahead of me getting rid of the old thinset.
Then... building the forms for the new pour -- which might just happen tomorrow. I've got to thank GJ-er Dan in Pasadena for the very generous loan of the cement mixer. The fact that my back is going to survive this ordeal is thanks you you, Dan.
And all of that loading and unloading and lifting was on top of some work (the stuntmen heist story is now set in the Ukraine, not the South Pacific) and a couple of doctor appointments (one for the 2-year-old and one for the pregnant wife).
I'm not complaining -- but it was a pretty long day.
Cheers.
(Not my photograph, but it's the cocktail I mention -- and it kind of captures the spirit of what I'm talking about.)
It's just a shame that there isn't a similar cocktail designed for cars, as my 28-year-old Jeep deserves something for the work it did today, too.
First up, 1,100 pounds of concrete and 2,000-2,500 pounds of clay are now gone. It took three trips and the poor suspension on the Jeep was down very low. But all the concrete I cut out and all the clay I dug out are no longer sitting around in trash cans and tubs and the back of the poor Jeep.
Then two trips to Home Depot for 24 bags of Quikrete. These are the 90 pound bags that only Home Depot seems to carry. I wish they would have carried them for me to the Jeep.
Then I started removing tiles -- first, it was just the ones that bordered on the hole I cut. Then it was the ones damaged as I got tired and sloppy while removing the first set. Some had welding scars on them, so I figured why not. They were not easy to get up. And I've still got some work ahead of me getting rid of the old thinset.
Then... building the forms for the new pour -- which might just happen tomorrow. I've got to thank GJ-er Dan in Pasadena for the very generous loan of the cement mixer. The fact that my back is going to survive this ordeal is thanks you you, Dan.
And all of that loading and unloading and lifting was on top of some work (the stuntmen heist story is now set in the Ukraine, not the South Pacific) and a couple of doctor appointments (one for the 2-year-old and one for the pregnant wife).
I'm not complaining -- but it was a pretty long day.
Cheers.
(Not my photograph, but it's the cocktail I mention -- and it kind of captures the spirit of what I'm talking about.)
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Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Hi Jack,
You're very welcome for the mixer. Use it in health - meaning go easy on your back as you already said it was barking at you some. Seriously, this job is STILL going to be a **** buster with a lot of bending and finishing below ground level. Double & triple check your form staking and reinforcement. You haven't "hurried" until you have a blow out with wet concrete all over and no one to help you sort it out quickly.
Besides all that, your toddler doesn't "get" why Daddy won't get down and play with him!
Looking forward to seeing how you make it come out great and shame the rest of us.
You're very welcome for the mixer. Use it in health - meaning go easy on your back as you already said it was barking at you some. Seriously, this job is STILL going to be a **** buster with a lot of bending and finishing below ground level. Double & triple check your form staking and reinforcement. You haven't "hurried" until you have a blow out with wet concrete all over and no one to help you sort it out quickly.
Besides all that, your toddler doesn't "get" why Daddy won't get down and play with him!
Looking forward to seeing how you make it come out great and shame the rest of us.
Zengineer
Well-known member
ct71rr
Well-known member
Truer words were never spoken... make that form like a stronghold cabinet.
X3!! You can never have too much bracing on a form. I had a nice blow out on my foundation form...not fun
Nighttrain
Well-known member
Jack what are you planning on attaching the tile to the metal table top with? Glad you going down deep to make room for shims to allow for final adjustments for floor / table top to match.
OP
What follows is the overconfidence of a complete novice:
I think the forms should be pretty straightforward. Since everything is contained in the hole, the only point where things could break is inward. I've made a box from 2x10's cut down to size. The box goes into the pit, attached to crosspieces that rest on the surrounding old concrete. I'll be filling all around it and underneath it, sort of like this (but with one hole, not two):
My concern so far has been how I'll get it out. How much adhesion is there between the wood form and the concrete? If I need to make it so that a few screws will allow one side to collapse inward, I can do it. Otherwise I'll have to lift it straight up, which I've been assuming might involve a hydraulic jack or two.
Any suggestions?
When I did the original tiling, I did a couple of sections with the white thinset that stays flexible longer. In pulling up the tiles, I see that this stuff still has a little give to it three years later. I figured this would be good for adhering the tiles to the steel. But this is another point where I'm open to suggestions.
I've figured that if it doesn't work I can always clean everything off, raise the lift another 3/8" and paint it to match. But I think it will work.
I think the forms should be pretty straightforward. Since everything is contained in the hole, the only point where things could break is inward. I've made a box from 2x10's cut down to size. The box goes into the pit, attached to crosspieces that rest on the surrounding old concrete. I'll be filling all around it and underneath it, sort of like this (but with one hole, not two):
My concern so far has been how I'll get it out. How much adhesion is there between the wood form and the concrete? If I need to make it so that a few screws will allow one side to collapse inward, I can do it. Otherwise I'll have to lift it straight up, which I've been assuming might involve a hydraulic jack or two.
Any suggestions?
When I did the original tiling, I did a couple of sections with the white thinset that stays flexible longer. In pulling up the tiles, I see that this stuff still has a little give to it three years later. I figured this would be good for adhering the tiles to the steel. But this is another point where I'm open to suggestions.
I've figured that if it doesn't work I can always clean everything off, raise the lift another 3/8" and paint it to match. But I think it will work.
great white tj
Well-known member
All right. Monday's over and here's the recipe: 1 oz gin, 1 oz Cointreau, 1 oz Lillet Blanc, 1 oz lemon juice, 3 drops Herbsaint (or absinthe, or pastis). Shake all ingredients together with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish by dropping in a stemless Maraschino cherry.
It's just a shame that there isn't a similar cocktail designed for cars, as my 28-year-old Jeep deserves something for the work it did today, too.
First up, 1,100 pounds of concrete and 2,000-2,500 pounds of clay are now gone. It took three trips and the poor suspension on the Jeep was down very low. But all the concrete I cut out and all the clay I dug out are no longer sitting around in trash cans and tubs and the back of the poor Jeep.
Then two trips to Home Depot for 24 bags of Quikrete. These are the 90 pound bags that only Home Depot seems to carry. I wish they would have carried them for me to the Jeep.
Then I started removing tiles -- first, it was just the ones that bordered on the hole I cut. Then it was the ones damaged as I got tired and sloppy while removing the first set. Some had welding scars on them, so I figured why not. They were not easy to get up. And I've still got some work ahead of me getting rid of the old thinset.
Then... building the forms for the new pour -- which might just happen tomorrow. I've got to thank GJ-er Dan in Pasadena for the very generous loan of the cement mixer. The fact that my back is going to survive this ordeal is thanks you you, Dan.
And all of that loading and unloading and lifting was on top of some work (the stuntmen heist story is now set in the Ukraine, not the South Pacific) and a couple of doctor appointments (one for the 2-year-old and one for the pregnant wife).
I'm not complaining -- but it was a pretty long day.
Cheers.
(Not my photograph, but it's the cocktail I mention -- and it kind of captures the spirit of what I'm talking about.)
Poor Jeep, it will need a week at the Beach.....
z28snksknr
Well-known member
I read elsewhere on GJ that a guy used diesel fuel to coat his forms as a releasing agent. I offer this as a topic to pursue since I've never done concrete work to help much beyond that. I did do a quick search before posting this and "the interwebz" seem to point towards any "oil like substance that is not water soluable" as a potential releasing agent.
Hope that helps some. That's my <$0.02
ct71rr
Well-known member
Jack, i'm no expert but, speaking from my experience pouring the foundation for my garage, I had a few pieces of plywood that were embedded into the concrete. The concrete flowed under and then around to the other side of the form. The plywood was embedded maybe 3 - 4 ". I tried prying them out with a large tamping rod (black rod with one flat end and pointed on the other) and I broke the tip off of the bar. I had to use a demo-hammer to bust out some of the concrete to get the form free. I used semi-gloss and gloss exterior paint (whatever I had lying around) on the plywood. It worked pretty well. You will definately want to use a concrete release agent of some sort and soak the forms down with it. You will then probably have to use the jack(s) to lift the form out.
ConCretin
Well-known member
Form oil will help but the lumber will not adhere enough to bother.
The trick to getting your forms out be to build them in a 'pin wheel'. Run the ends by in a manner that prevents both ends of any form board from being in contact with the concrete.
Even a relatively shallow placement will impart pressure on the cut end of the lumber. If both ends of any one board are against concrete, it will be a bear to remove. You will probably end up saw-zalling it out, which will extend the time between you and that delicious sounding cocktail.
Hope this helps
OP
Okay. The advice on the releasing the forms is good -- but it came too late. Just under 2000 pounds of concrete mix have been poured.
So, with the knowledge that this is going to be a bear and probably involve some cutting -- when is the best time to take out the forms?
So, with the knowledge that this is going to be a bear and probably involve some cutting -- when is the best time to take out the forms?
Rickenbackerman
Well-known member
I just had about three yards poured into my new driveway apron last summer - the guy pulled the forms only about two hours after the pour. I'm sure others have more/better advice, but that's about the extent of my experience with concrete (other than busting up and removing about 8,000 lbs of the stuff all over my property).
GarageEnvy
Well-known member
Jack, also no expert on concrete but the experts who did the work on my slab and driveway pulled the forms late the same day of the pour. They seemed to tap lightly along the form rather than trying to just knock it loose. I've done a few smaller pours and I found that despite my best efforts sometimes the edge was damaged.
ConCretin
Well-known member
Sorry Jack. After following this thread for a while, should have known you wouldn't waste any time. As the guys have said, the concrete will support it's own weight after a few hours but any prying is likely to damage your edges. If that's not an issue, have at it - otherwise I'd give it a few days. Unless there is excess concrete physically locking the forms in, it won't be a lot more difficult.
As thorough as you are, I'm sure you are going to cure your concrete properly for a week or so.
Jack,
I waited about 24 hours to pull my forms out. They were bare wood and came out fine.
I made my forms so that they all collapsed inwards. The only problems I had was where I had some 2 x 4's attached to the forms for channels in the concrete walls for the hydraulic hoses and wiring to run. They finally came out with a bit of effort.
Best of luck!
Lane
I waited about 24 hours to pull my forms out. They were bare wood and came out fine.
I made my forms so that they all collapsed inwards. The only problems I had was where I had some 2 x 4's attached to the forms for channels in the concrete walls for the hydraulic hoses and wiring to run. They finally came out with a bit of effort.
Best of luck!
Lane
slimpickins
Well-known member
Great thread. I keep coming back and reviewing this for motivation. As many people have said, its inspiring to see what you've done.
The stealth lift will be a great feature. Things like this where you have thought it all through make the difference between average and ***SPECTACULAR***! I also like the heavy duty cabinets! And the 500 lb bench top!
Built to last! Love it!
The stealth lift will be a great feature. Things like this where you have thought it all through make the difference between average and ***SPECTACULAR***! I also like the heavy duty cabinets! And the 500 lb bench top!
Built to last! Love it!
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Jack,
You'll have 70% of design strength in 24 hrs most likely. If you want to be conservative you can wait three days and you'll be totally good.
If you used NO form release agent....uh...contrary to what's been said above, this wood is gonna be a bear to get out. You'll have to beat the **** out of it to get it off. Just be patient (very hard) or you'll have it spalling all the edges. Did you know to agitate or vibrate the concrete? If not you MAY have some porosity or "rock pockets". Not too noticeable where you're doing this but if it bothers you, you can "bag & sack" the holes (if smaller) with straight cement and water. Let's see it after you pull the forms...if you dare!
You'll have 70% of design strength in 24 hrs most likely. If you want to be conservative you can wait three days and you'll be totally good.
If you used NO form release agent....uh...contrary to what's been said above, this wood is gonna be a bear to get out. You'll have to beat the **** out of it to get it off. Just be patient (very hard) or you'll have it spalling all the edges. Did you know to agitate or vibrate the concrete? If not you MAY have some porosity or "rock pockets". Not too noticeable where you're doing this but if it bothers you, you can "bag & sack" the holes (if smaller) with straight cement and water. Let's see it after you pull the forms...if you dare!
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ConCretin
Well-known member
Hate to be contrary but no concrete reaches 70% in 24 hours. The rule of thumb is 70% in seven days and that is for laboratory cured cylinders. Field conditions will result in lower strength gain.
The amount of adhesion with or without form oil has very little to do with compressive strength. It will be no more difficult to strip the forms in one day or thirty.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
LLWillysfan,
I'm used to using high early mix designs on our projects so you're probably right on this big box store stuff. Nevertheless, Jack will be fine stripping in 24 hrs if he doesn't have to beat the **** out of the forms to get them out. Even after three days it will spall if the forms are hard to remove...which they will be without a release agent.
Of course the release agent has nothing to do with the compressive sterngth.
I'm used to using high early mix designs on our projects so you're probably right on this big box store stuff. Nevertheless, Jack will be fine stripping in 24 hrs if he doesn't have to beat the **** out of the forms to get them out. Even after three days it will spall if the forms are hard to remove...which they will be without a release agent.
Of course the release agent has nothing to do with the compressive sterngth.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Hey Jack, how's the back? Don't worry about the soreness and stiffness, in about 20 years, you'll think its normal to start the day that way. LOL
I'm no pro when it comes to form work, but I just had a thought on how you might avoid damaging your hard work when it comes time to pop the forms. Instead of wailing away with a masonry sledge, try the following 'experiment'. Drill a hole or holes through the forms with an bit that is the same diameter as the nozzle on a lever-actuated blow-gun attached to your air compressor hose. Start with a low pressure (for safety) and see if the forced air will break the adhesive mechanical bond between the form and the concrete. Who knows, I might have dreamed up a way to finesse the form!
That lift is going to look so cool when its been given the tile treatment. Wouldn't it be slick to weld up some SS for the floor edging? I'm picturing some built-in LED accent lighting for the pit, some halogen up-lighting for wrenching the underbelly of the beast, a hidden air manifold in the void, and last, but not least, a suspended ping-pong table surface that drops from the ceiling and mates to the lift table. After all, it wouldn't be your style to just have the lift serve just one purpose!
I'm no pro when it comes to form work, but I just had a thought on how you might avoid damaging your hard work when it comes time to pop the forms. Instead of wailing away with a masonry sledge, try the following 'experiment'. Drill a hole or holes through the forms with an bit that is the same diameter as the nozzle on a lever-actuated blow-gun attached to your air compressor hose. Start with a low pressure (for safety) and see if the forced air will break the adhesive mechanical bond between the form and the concrete. Who knows, I might have dreamed up a way to finesse the form!
That lift is going to look so cool when its been given the tile treatment. Wouldn't it be slick to weld up some SS for the floor edging? I'm picturing some built-in LED accent lighting for the pit, some halogen up-lighting for wrenching the underbelly of the beast, a hidden air manifold in the void, and last, but not least, a suspended ping-pong table surface that drops from the ceiling and mates to the lift table. After all, it wouldn't be your style to just have the lift serve just one purpose!