Re-routing gas pipes

[motoidiot]

Hi,

I am about a month into ownership of my first house, and by extension, my first garage. So far I've done nothing but gather ideas and ponder plans.
Among the many things that I hope to accomplish this summer are:
(in no particular order)

Add a couple of electrical outlets.
Plumb for air.
Floor (either epoxy or racedeck)
Sheet rock the walls and ceiling.
Paint.

In summary my garage is ~21'x21' with a small area in the corner lost to the heater and water heater. One idea for reclaiming some of that space is to replace the old side-by-side washer and dryer with a stacked set and put them where the water heater lives now. Then I could mount a tank-less unit on the wall.

I've been going round and round trying to decide where to start and I think I finally have it. There is a gas line that is rather oddly routed through the garage that feeds the gas ignition for the fireplace in the house.
I think that the first order of business is probably to re-route this line in a cleaner fashion along the wall and higher up so that it will be hidden above the finished ceiling.

I know there are a number of skilled tradesmen here on GJ, as well as a whole lot of experienced DIY'ers so I thought I'd ask for advice on how to tackle this first garage project.
I suppose that option one is to use black pipe and just re-do the existing pipeline.

Is there a better option? Other types of flexible line that would be better suited to the application?

It seems that to do the black pipe route I'll be buying some new tools (pipe threader, pipe vice, pipe cutter, reamer, etc...). I'm not totally opposed to this as it would then set me up for doing my air lines should I choose to use black pipe for those as well.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. Please have a look at the photos and tell me what you think.

Thanks!

Mike

Here you can see the fist odd section of pipework.

And the other end where it terminates into the wall.

Close up.

View from the driveway.

 

[stout1]

If you put a stacked w/d where the water heater sits, don't you think the top unit will be too high?

 

[motoidiot]

My girlfriend and I are both pretty tall.

Actually I had thought about that. My thought was to remove that section of the "pedestal" so that the W/D would sit on the floor.

 

[ibedayank]

in my HONEST opinion gaslines are best left to the pros...
GAS lines have to be pressure tested for a certian length of time at a certian pressure
threading tools are NOT cheap
the pro has insureance to do this ...you don't
Just remember if it leaks your house is now a BOMB

 

[motoidiot]

Wonderful input. Thank you ibedayank.

I want my house to be "the bomb", not a bomb...

I've been thinking about this too. Kind of frustrating that the original owners (could well have been the builders) did this goofy work.

 

[Pappa Ugg]

I just added a drop for a gas range... It wasn't all that difficulty. Although I have access to threading tools they were not necessary. Lowes sells threaded black pipe in various length...

Also look at CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing). My local Lowes sells it as well and it doesn't require any threading. It does require special fittings that can get expensive but it saves allot of time on the installation. I decided not to use CSST since I was running down a wall and was concerned about someone (in the future) possibly driving a nail through it.

Either way, take your time, use gas tape on all fittings, and check for leaks when done. Look around there is a special leak detection solution for gas that glows fluorescent green when it comes in contact with gas..

good luck

 

[motoidiot]

Thanks for the counter-point Pappa Ugg. I started looking at the CSST lines which is what prompted me to ask advice regarding possible alternatives to black pipe.

Keep em comin'.

 

[rickairmedic]

You dont need all those fancy tools for that job. you need a stret 90 a regular 90 a few ******* a union and a sawzall . I would shut the gas off at the meter . Turn the furnace or water heater up till it goes out . Then take the sawzall and cut the ****** between the 2 90's over near where it goes into the wall for the fireplace. Now remove all of the pipe back to the T over the waterheater/furnace . Once you have done that you need a street 90 that fits the existing pipe . Screw the street 90 into the T so that it ends up pointing up into the ceiling . From there you will need a long enough ****** to get you just over the rafters then a regular 90 . Then start running the pipe you already had back over towards the fireplace . Once you get back to that end you will need a couple more ******* and a union to put that end back together . Use Rectorseal #5 on all joints ( you cant use to much ) as you put it together . Once you have everything back together take a spray bottle and fill it with water and add a half dozen drops of dish washing liquid to it and shake it up . Then turn the gas back on and go through and clean the excess rectorseal off of your joints . Then spray each and every joint with the sprayer and watch for bubbles . You will be able to see if there is a leak as the solution in the sprayer will make bubbles if there is a leak . I dont mean little bubbles I mean it will look like the pipe is blowing a big bubble if there is a leak . No bubbles good go back and relight the water heater and furnace . Fireplace season is over so it is up to you if you want to relight the pilot on the fireplace now or in the fall. Should you see bubbles then you need to start over at the beginning and retighten your connections untill the solution doesnt bubble anymore . There wasnt that easy . I know you wanted to buy a bunch of fancy new toools but you really didnt need them for this job now did you .


Ooooooooooh yeah and congrats on the new house and more important the new garage .


Rick

 

[evintho]

I like your ideas! Definitely, lose the pedestal and place a stackable washer/dryer combo next to the water heater. Might even be a rebate there from PG&E. Reroute the gas line above the ceiling. As stated, very easy to do yourself and Lowes and HD carry threaded black pipe in various lengths. Thread tape and a soapy solution (to check for leaks) are your friends.

I would also suggest thinking about insulation. Yeah, we live in a very mild climate compared to the rest of the country but Dec-Feb gets mighty chilly here in the Bay Area. Most of my free time is spent in my garage and I'm quite comfortable all through the year, even in July-Aug when it gets faily toasty here. Mines fully insulated. Just my 2 cents.

 

[brewchief]

My girlfriend and I are both pretty tall.

Actually I had thought about that. My thought was to remove that section of the "pedestal" so that the W/D would sit on the floor.

It looks to me like that pedestal is part of the return air for the house, need to be sure before you cut part of it away.

I agree with rickairmedic on the gas line, pretty easy move without needing a threader.

 

[59 wagon man]

if your thinking about doing this yourself please keep a few things in mind. depending on your local code a union in the middle of a gas line before the gas **** my not meet code. on the csst tubing while lowes may sell it you may have to take a test to be certified to legally install. in other words if there's a leak and fire you may not be able to collect under your insurance. from the looks of what you posted that maybe the work of a handyman and not a qualified installer

just an fyi. there are fittings and ******* called left-right couplings and ******* .one end of the ****** and coupling are threaded reverse so it will do the same as a coupling but will not loosen up accidently

 

[premierplayer]

Hire a licensed, insured plumber/gasfitter.
If you do the gas work and there is a claim, your insurance will NOT pay. In addition, anyone else you harm or put into danger can sue you. People die from DIY gas instalations, there have been two such fatal explosions in the Washington DC area in the last week.
If a licensed professional does the work and there is a problem their insurance and bonding cover the damages.
I am licensed in two trades, work for someone else under their license and insurance, although qualified and profecient I will not do side work because the liabilities are far to great, bottom line, I could loose everything to earn an extra $, not worth the chance.
Doing the gas work yourself puts you in the same position.

Glass half empty on this one.

Watch the video, UB, total loss
http://www.wjla.com/articles/2011/05/gas-fed-fire-in-kensington-injures-2--60024.html

 

[dumper]

its your first house- there will be plenty of things to do. Hire someone with a license and insurance to do the gas line-it is a quick and easy job that will probably not cost much and is well worth it from the liability point of view alone. Yes, you can do it by yourself, but...

 

[ibedayank]

also depends if you need an inspection /permit
i need both when had a new furnace installed before the city would turn on the gas

 

[familytruckster]

I'd live with it a while and see if it really becomes a problem after time, it doesn't look too bad to me. I would suggest adding a support to the pipe coming out of the wall about mid-way.

Not to be a fuddy duddy but most homes are in need of general maintenance which people don't seem do anymore, same with their cars. I would start with that if you haven't already. Y\The defencies in your home inspection is a good place to start.

 

[wssix99]

You can do it yourself as long as you are confident you can be safe:
- Turn the gas off first!
- Make sure you use black pipe coated for gas. (Regular galvanized pipe can leak gas.)
- Use a pipe dope or teflon tape rated specifically for gas. (You need the yellow teflon tape and not the white.)
- Get leak detection fluid. (Sold at any home store.) You put the detector on the joints when you turn on the gas to make sure you don't have any leaks.
- Make sure you have good pipe wrenches for the job.

 

[fireguy]

You can do it yourself as long as you are confident you can be safe:
- Turn the gas off first!
- Make sure you use black pipe coated for gas. (Regular galvanized pipe can leak gas.)
- Use a pipe dope or teflon tape rated specifically for gas. (You need the yellow teflon tape and not the white.)
- Get leak detection fluid. (Sold at any home store.) You put the detector on the joints when you turn on the gas to make sure you don't have any leaks.
- Make sure you have good pipe wrenches for the job.

I did not know black pipe was coated for gas use. Nor did I know that galvanized pipe would leak gas.

Thoretically, gas is supposed to disolve the teflon. When I first heard that, I leak tested gas work I had done 10 years before, and found no leaks

You pressure test the gas piping at different pressures required by whatever the local codes specify. Normally 10PSI is used.

Ridgid pipe tools are all we use. There is a difference in quality tools.

 

[fireguy]

My girlfriend and I are both pretty tall.

Actually I had thought about that. My thought was to remove that section of the "pedestal" so that the W/D would sit on the floor.

Check your local codes, gas furnaces and water heater normmaly are required to be 18" above the garage floor.

 

[nate379]

Where are you guys getting this myth from that insurance wouldn't pay? It would have to be proved that the person did the work knowingly wrong/negligent.

If I install a water line and a week later it blows, flooding the house... insurance will pay.

I COULD run my *** over with my lawn tractor or cut my leg off with a chainsaw, does that mean I should hire a pro just in case?

How about let's not play the what if game?

 

[ddawg16]

Is there not a thread on what should not be in the garage? I would consider the washer and dryer to be one of them......

But since you stuck with it....it's easy doing black pipe.....not sure where some people think that it should only be done by a licensed plumber.....

I give myself a few days to do a project like that....figure out what I need....go by the pre-threaded pieces...and have HD thread those that are not standard....it's not rocket science.....when measuring....assume each joint will **** up 1/2" of thread.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Personnally, I'm not a fan of CSST for a lot of reasons. Mostly, because CSST is designed to turn any jack-leg into a gasfitter and you'd be amazed what some jack-legs will do. Also, it reportedly can burst into flames if hit by lightning and not bonded properly...something your average jack-leg can't even comprehend.

If you're dead set on using it, make sure you get the manual and follow it to the letter.

Black steel is the way to go for sure, IMHO. Use a good pipe sealant (dope). In my experince it is much easier to use than teflon tape, although either is nomally allowed. I like the Leak-Loc brand, but any that is approved (read the lable) for gas should work. If it contains teflon or not doesn't matter. That's just a marketing trick.

A lot of hardware stores will cut and thread it for you, but you'll have to have your lengths measured properly or you'll end up with a mess. Pipe threading equipment would be a bit expensive for a DIYer. A set of pipe wrenches and a good vise would be good for anyone to have around though.

Soap every joint to make sure you haven't left a leak. If you smell any gas after you turn the gas back on, you've got a serious problem. Turn it off and vacate the home until it clears.

The one thing that gripes me at work (here at the gas company) (actually it's not "the one thing"...it's more like "one of the many things) is having to shut someone's gas off because I discover the piping is ****. Makes them mad. Makes the boss mad. Makes everyone's day miserable.

The advice about hiring a properly trained, competent, professional is actually very good advice.

Good Luck!

Phil

 

[SPDMETL]

Looks like everybody else covered the gas...now for the utilization of space. Move everything to the side with the washer and you can pack 2 cars in there. Build shelves; sort all your stuff. Any overhead space for storage ? Can you add a shed for bulky, non-valuable items ?

 

[elav]

If your garage is anything like my last garage, the garage is extra deep in the back of the garage and the side of the garage that has the water heater there. If this is the case you could consider moving the washer and drier to the back wall (same wall as the water heater) but on the other side of that door. Seeing as you have water hookups and a drain in your garage I think adding a deep sink is mandatory!

 

[wssix99]

I did not know black pipe was coated for gas use. Nor did I know that galvanized pipe would leak gas.

Thoretically, gas is supposed to disolve the teflon. When I first heard that, I leak tested gas work I had done 10 years before, and found no leaks

You pressure test the gas piping at different pressures required by whatever the local codes specify. Normally 10PSI is used.

Ridgid pipe tools are all we use. There is a difference in quality tools.

I think the coating is more about how the pipe reacts with the gas. The uncoated steel pipe will degrade and eventually leak.

Looks like the gas tape is a teflon tape but is a higher density than the regular plumbing stuff: http://www.restek.com/pdfs/308-02-002.pdf

 

[Frank The Plumber]

Is there not a thread on what should not be in the garage? I would consider the washer and dryer to be one of them......

But since you stuck with it....it's easy doing black pipe.....not sure where some people think that it should only be done by a licensed plumber.....

I give myself a few days to do a project like that....figure out what I need....go by the pre-threaded pieces...and have HD thread those that are not standard....it's not rocket science.....when measuring....assume each joint will **** up 1/2" of thread.

Gimme yer pistol and yer badge and yer car with the high speed tires and I'll go play Mr Police for a few hours. It aint all that hard, what do you guys do, **** I can eat a dough nut. I can nap with a radar gun in my lap. I don't see why law enforce ment should only be done by a properly trained and breifed lawenforcement officer, any ******* can point a gun at a perp, tazer it, load it into one of those bags and dump it in a cell and yell ooo rah. It's easy ta be a cop, played one fer haloween when I was leven. Shootin peoples easy, it not rokit science.

How did that sound to you? A bit disrespectful?

3 hours, $225 in labor $100 in material. L B I and done by a professional and your lovely girl and future children will be safe happy and secure.

And I would NEVER assume the responsibilites or liabilities of a professional law enforcement officer.
Respectfully The Plumber.

 

[IH82BL8]

My wife told me about a news report this week of some guy who had just bought house and wanted to convert the gas dryer to an electric one. In the middle of the night, the house exploded into matchsticks. The only things left are the foundation and a steel I-beam. Somehow he and his wife survived. He's badly burned and she will probably die.

Hire a REPUTABLE professional.

I do all of my own mechanical work and almost all of my own home improvement work. I will never touch the gas system of the fire sprinkler system in my house--there's too much at shake.

 

[nate379]

Well with that thought I should have a chef to cook meals for me, a maid to clean, a mechanic to work on my cars, a landscaper to cut my grass, trim trees, a trainer when I work out at the gym.... I think you get the idea.

Sorry but it doesn't take a college degree to learn how to thread a couple pieces of pipe together. Dope it, tighten, and leak check at the end. Please tell me what is so involved with that that a homeowner couldn't do it?

I have plumbed many water lines, sewer pipes, gas, fuel, etc.. I'm still alive... the buildings are just fine. No... not because I'm lucky.

Gimme yer pistol and yer badge and yer car with the high speed tires and I'll go play Mr Police for a few hours. It aint all that hard, what do you guys do, **** I can eat a dough nut. I can nap with a radar gun in my lap. I don't see why law enforce ment should only be done by a properly trained and breifed lawenforcement officer, any ******* can point a gun at a perp, tazer it, load it into one of those bags and dump it in a cell and yell ooo rah. It's easy ta be a cop, played one fer haloween when I was leven. Shootin peoples easy, it not rokit science.

How did that sound to you? A bit disrespectful?

3 hours, $225 in labor $100 in material. L B I and done by a professional and your lovely girl and future children will be safe happy and secure.

And I would NEVER assume the responsibilites or liabilities of a professional law enforcement officer.
Respectfully The Plumber.

 

[Grumpy365]

Is there not a thread on what should not be in the garage? I would consider the washer and dryer to be one of them......

But since you stuck with it....it's easy doing black pipe.....not sure where some people think that it should only be done by a licensed plumber.....

I give myself a few days to do a project like that....figure out what I need....go by the pre-threaded pieces...and have HD thread those that are not standard....it's not rocket science.....when measuring....assume each joint will **** up 1/2" of thread.

X 2

I would do it.

I did not know black pipe was coated for gas use. Nor did I know that galvanized pipe would leak gas.

Thoretically, gas is supposed to disolve the teflon. When I first heard that, I leak tested gas work I had done 10 years before, and found no leaks

You pressure test the gas piping at different pressures required by whatever the local codes specify. Normally 10PSI is used.

Ridgid pipe tools are all we use. There is a difference in quality tools.

Galvanized pipe won't pass an inspector anywhere I know of for natural gas.

It won't leak but, it won't pass inspection. As far as the Teflon breaking down, that's news to me. I have used Teflon pipe dope AND the heavy Teflon gas tape ( not the thin cheap ****) and never lost minute sleep over any of it.

I think the coating is more about how the pipe reacts with the gas. The uncoated steel pipe will degrade and eventually leak.

I am fairly certain this is wrong. Gas pipe is black iron pipe. The galvanized pipe is coated (hence the term"galvanized"). I think the concern is the galvanized coating flaking.

 

[54FordPanel]

I'm completely comfortable putting my life, my family, and my home at "risk" when I did my gas pipes. I've watched our utility company techs replace my gas meter, and they did the pipes the same way I did the pipes. Dope them, (I use the paste in a jar) screw them together with a big pipe wrench and use some muscle, then test the joint with a proper store-bought testing fluid.

Our building inspector was completely comfortable with me doing my own gas pipes too. When he signed on my work, he had me test every joint.

Some jobs are worth paying a professional to do, but this is something I can do myself safely. If you aren't sure you can do it, then pay somebody to do it. This is pretty basic, in my opinion.

 

[brewchief]

Galvanized pipe won't pass an inspector anywhere I know of for natural gas.

It won't leak but, it won't pass inspection. As far as the Teflon breaking down, that's news to me. I have used Teflon pipe dope AND the heavy Teflon gas tape ( not the thin cheap ****) and never lost minute sleep over any of it.



I am fairly certain this is wrong. Gas pipe is black iron pipe. The galvanized pipe is coated (hence the term"galvanized"). I think the concern is the galvanized coating flaking.

Nothing in the code here that says you can't use galvanized pipe, the gas company here uses galvanized on every single new gas meter that I see installed. I think there was a problem with the coating flaking in the distant past but not anymore.

Some local codes may still not allow it.

In my area a permit will run 125$ and the customer will have to sit home all day waiting for the inspector, I don't know many contractors that are going to pull a permit to reroute a gas line a few feet.

 

[Grumpy365]

Nothing in the code here that says you can't use galvanized pipe, the gas company here uses galvanized on every single new gas meter that I see installed. I think there was a problem with the coating flaking in the distant past but not anymore.

Some local codes may still not allow it.

In my area a permit will run 125$ and the customer will have to sit home all day waiting for the inspector, I don't know many contractors that are going to pull a permit to reroute a gas line a few feet.

He should call his local inspector.

In my town it won't pass.

 

[Frank The Plumber]

Well with that thought I should have a chef to cook meals for me, a maid to clean, a mechanic to work on my cars, a landscaper to cut my grass, trim trees, a trainer when I work out at the gym.... I think you get the idea.

Sorry but it doesn't take a college degree to learn how to thread a couple pieces of pipe together. Dope it, tighten, and leak check at the end. Please tell me what is so involved with that that a homeowner couldn't do it?

I have plumbed many water lines, sewer pipes, gas, fuel, etc.. I'm still alive... the buildings are just fine. No... not because I'm lucky.

OK. In the city of Chicago the gas company is not repiping systems in which a gas leak is detected.
But wait little Tommy, they're the gas company, ain't that their job?
Nope!
But that makes no sense.
Ah, but it does. They were not able to sufficiently train their personnel, equip them and send them forth into the homes of customers with an incident record that could keep them properly insured to do so.
They could not assume the risk and liability within reasonable standards.
The gas company comes out, determines a leak and locks out your service. They instruct you to call a plumber or fitter to fix the leak and certify the repair. I meet them there and line pressure test the repair for them.
So, if even the gas company defers gas piping to a Licensed Bonded and Insured professional contractor it just seems to reason that there may be a reason for it.

That reason would be Protocol.
There is a certain Protocol or system of conduct, code and format that each person whom is a professional at their respective trade follows.
This Protocol is what makes a law enforcement officer a professional at what he does. He knows just that 20% more about what he is doing than any of us could ever assume that he does. That is why I personally respect him for his profession.
If, You as a home owner know only 80% of the process of installing a gas line or pipe within your home, that 20% that you do not know could get you into some very serious trouble.
You, may know enough to get you by, you may be able to play plumber on your sewer lines water lines etc without any instant deadly results, you may have a drip from poor soldering or a case of the shits due to poor Protocol during an installation. But gas is not so forgiving.

To encourage any DIY guy to do his own gas piping and cheer him on with "it's not rocket science" "any fool can do it" "those guys are over paid" without giving him a stick of advice or asking him a single question as to his skill set is wrong.
It could be damaging, it could get him killed and I am sorry to say is generally ignorant and should be refrained from.

If this gentleman has the skill sets, tooling, understands and can follow the required Protocol that encompasses the installation procedure for gas piping. Sir enjoy the endeavor, If you feel uncomfortable in any way undertaking this task, Sir please hire a professional.

As for your am I just lucky comment. I would ask. Are you redundantly pressure checking your line installations and as the line is pressurized are you also using a floculant such as a testing fluid of high density soap foam to redundantly check your lines? If you have no idea what the "F" I just said or consider my question ****, yes you are to this point lucky.
If you have no idea what the "F" I said but want to continue doing your own piping and be safe, consult for a lesson in the Protocol of safely returning a fuel gas line to service. I would be happy elaborate to keep you safe.

 

[Mike007]

Galvanized pipe won't pass an inspector anywhere I know of for natural gas.

Here, the code actually specifies either galvanized or painted black pipe for exterior gas piping. And it's what the utility companies uses to connect meters.

 

[Frank The Plumber]

The galvanizing oxidizes when it comes into contact with water within the gas. When the zinc is released it makes a gummy substance that can get stuck in the mechanisms and controls within gas valves and controls. In a perfect scenario we would not want any chance of any type of contaminant getting into the gas valve and hindering it's safe operation. Thus, ideally, we would not want to use galvanized pipe for gas conduction.

 

[ddawg16]

Gimme yer pistol and yer badge and yer car with the high speed tires and I'll go play Mr Police for a few hours. It aint all that hard, what do you guys do, **** I can eat a dough nut. I can nap with a radar gun in my lap. I don't see why law enforce ment should only be done by a properly trained and breifed lawenforcement officer, any ******* can point a gun at a perp, tazer it, load it into one of those bags and dump it in a cell and yell ooo rah. It's easy ta be a cop, played one fer haloween when I was leven. Shootin peoples easy, it not rokit science.

How did that sound to you? A bit disrespectful?

3 hours, $225 in labor $100 in material. L B I and done by a professional and your lovely girl and future children will be safe happy and secure.

And I would NEVER assume the responsibilites or liabilities of a professional law enforcement officer.
Respectfully The Plumber.

Frank, I 'was' going to reply with something like..."Hey, lets change jobs for a day and see who can do the others job the best". Then I realised that your were not really trying to be sarcastic, but trying to make a valid point.

Point taken.....

However, I would like to point out that a job like this is not outside the relm of a competent DIY's....key word here being competent....

Some people can't replace a light switch...they are the same ones who should not attempt gas pipe.

Then there are people like me who have the "knack"....what we don't know, we know how to find out....we don't do everything....but there are not a whold lot of things that I can't do......case in point...see the two links in my signature.....I have no issues doing my own plumbing.....but I'm also not afraid to ask questions here.

 

[Zeke]

Plumbing of any type is expensive. I go with the thought to leave things as is for awhile. The side with the washer/dryer is prime for a row of cabinets, uppers and lowers with a work top. If need be, the tops of the appliances can be covered and act as an extension. You might like a folding table there for the clothes.

Back wall is perfect for a row of floor to ceiling cabinets. The last wall may be a good one for pegboard and/or fold down work tables. Shallow wall/floor space is a good place for bench grinders.

 

[wuck]

Hi,

I am about a month into ownership of my first house, and by extension, my first garage. So far I've done nothing but gather ideas and ponder plans.
Among the many things that I hope to accomplish this summer are:
(in no particular order)

Add a couple of electrical outlets.
Plumb for air.
Floor (either epoxy or racedeck)
Sheet rock the walls and ceiling.
Paint.

All these responses, everyone missed the obvious!

Plumb the air first!

Learn how to measure, cut, seal, and above all test. The tools aren't expensive (Unless you buy a rigid auto pipe threading machine). You need pipe wrenches if you own a house. A test gauge is $10. You might need your hardware store to cut & thread a couple of pieces. Soapy water is fine testing a flex pipe connection, but a pressure test is the gold standard for gas pipe.

If you can plumb the air lines, and have them pass a 10 psi overnight test, then you can do the gas line.

Pat

 

[Frank The Plumber]

Along with the over night test, I feel that you must absolutely do a direct application test using a foaming agent at ALL threads. I generally test all of my lines at 120 PSI in a non connected state. You can have casting sand in the fittings that a mere 10 PSI will not move, then after time it will shift or degrade and a leak forms. I then bubble test them. The reason for the high pressure test is because you do not want to just rely upon the pipe dope to make the final seal, you would rather have a true metallic seal. A pipe dope seal can over time shrink or break down. And then you leak.

The vast majority of all gas leaks are caused by non caring assholes.

A gas leak is something that is left, not generally something that forms over time. It is the result of laziness, a distraction, a hurried schedule, using too small of a set of wrenches, physical weakness or just a lack of give a ****.

I see all kinds of really ignorant bull **** out there. I find assholes using sections of garden hose and clamps for gods sake.

Know your thread lengths and dimensions, inspect your fittings, use a good sealant such as Rectorseal #5, use at least 12" pipe wrenches on a 1/2 line. Pressure test a new unattached line at a high pressure, at least 80 PSI and spot it with a gauge. Immediately do a soap test with the 80 psi in there. Check the fittings very toroughly, they can have casting holes in them so saturate them with soapy water. I use a 50/50 mix of joy dish soap in a spray bottle. When you install the piping wipe the excess dope off of the fitting exterior after you have installed it. And then redundantly re soap test the entire line AGAIN, and don't assume anything, witness every joint and fitting.
True, any dope or ***** can put together tinker toys and screw pipe together.
False, Any dope can install gas pipe.
The 20% part of the protocol is all within the test procedure and being absolutely thorough. The 20% of the part that you do not know about lies within the fact that the 3 year old cute little girl who cutely smiles at you when you come into her daddy's home may die if you are not 100% professional and completely on your game today. The 20% that you will never know is that you as the installer will never be able to live with that.

It really is all in the testing.

 

[rickairmedic]

Frank I will admit that of all the things I do in HVAC running Gas pipe scares me the most . Gas pipe is the one way I can easily destroy a customers home and quite possibly kill them if it is not done corectly . I am quite retentive in everything I do but gas pipe is one area I am stupid retentive in as I never ever want to see one of my customers houses or whats left of it on the news .


Rick

 

[Zeke]

Frank, I think black iron pipe is all that is allowed in a garage, am I correct? Seems to me that's way it is on the West Coast. I also think that iron pipe helps to distinguish between gas and a water pipe.