Installing an electric heater

[jake26]

My friend gave me a slightly used NewAir G73 heater this weekend so I am going to try to install this baby in my garage but unfortunately, it did not come with any instructions. Here is a link to the heater.

http://www.air-n-water.com/product/G73.html

I purchased 10/2 wire and a 30 amp two pole circuit but I am confused about a couple things.

1) Since this heater does not have a plug, I assume the wire doesn't just exit the wall into the heater. Would I wire a plug into heater and install an outlet?

2) The heater is equipped with a thermostat but I would like to have a thermostat at ground level since I only plan on running it when necessary. Would I just wire a typical 240 volt thermostat ahead of the heater. Would that thermostat over ride the factory installed one?

 

[nehog]

There are a couple of ways to wire that thermostat, but I'd recommend putting it in place of the existing one. That way if there is a fan cool down/fan delay (delay is unlikely, but maybe) that will still work. If you have a wiring diagram of the heater's internals post it.

It is likely you can put a 240 volt thermostat in series with the line, but make sure the one you select is rated for the current drawn by this heater (some of the newer electronic ones may not be). Won't be as optimal as doing it 'right' but it will work. Also, you'd have to leave the built in thermostat set to its highest setting.

 

[Falcon67]

If you'll do a search here, you'll find several posts covering all issues on the G73 style heaters.

 

[jake26]

This is how I was going to wire the heater. I have never wired a thermostat before, especially a 240 volt version. Will this work ... and safely?

 

[nehog]

Yes, it will work, and meet code if the thermostat is rated for the load. The heater you are using is somewhat larger than many baseboard heaters so check the thermostat's ratings to be sure.

As I mentioned above, you'll have to set the heater's built in thermostat to its highest setting or it will try to turn off the heater at whatever temperature it is set at. Also don't be surprised if it cycles some, mine does.

I've not seen orange ground wires, I'll guess that is an artifact of your drawing program, right?

 

[jake26]

The orange lines are to represent the copper ground wires.

I did a search of the site and although I never found a description of wiring for the G73, I did find that some people added a shut off. Why would this be necessary?

 

[Falcon67]

If it's wired like the Dayton, you will defeat the safety features and cool down fan run feature of the heater doing that.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=409234#post409234

 

[jake26]

Thanks Falcon. I visited that thread and that is why I asked about the disconnect. I cannot find a wiring diagram of the NewAir model but it does have a fan delay and it has the exiting wires labeled L1 and L2 so I could assume they have the same wiring.

Because I am no electrician, pictures explain alot so I drew up a new diagram. Is this how to correctly wire the heater to retain the fan function?



Also, for the chance that the NewAir model is different, would it still work this way?

Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Falcon67]

Well, the short is that the New Air "G73" is not a Dayton by any means. It is a much cheaper knock off. On your diagram, you CANNOT wire it like that - any 240V switch has to kill both hot legs. You should never ever switch the ground and the heater does not require a neutral - at least the G73 does not. If you want to use a remote t-stat, you'll have to run wires from the internal t-stat connections to your remote unit, or use a 24V two pole contactor rated at 30A, a transformer and a regular 24V thermostat. See page 5, Figure 9 of the G73 manual - assuming the New Air is similar.

 

[ishiboo]

Well, the short is that the New Air "G73" is not a Dayton by any means. It is a much cheaper knock off. On your diagram, you CANNOT wire it like that - any 240V switch has to kill both hot legs. You should never ever switch the ground and the heater does not require a neutral - at least the G73 does not. If you want to use a remote t-stat, you'll have to run wires from the internal t-stat connections to your remote unit, or use a 24V two pole contactor rated at 30A, a transformer and a regular 24V thermostat. See page 5, Figure 9 of the G73 manual - assuming the New Air is similar.

Agreed.

I thought the setup suggested made sense at first, and assumed it had a 120v fan so the suggestion to kill L1 made sense - except reading that manual, there is no neutral - so by removing one leg gives you no current unless the ground were to be used as a neutral (which, of course, it isn't.)

 

[jake26]

OK. I think this project is beyond my capabilities. What can I expect to be charged to have an electrician come and install a system like Falcon suggested?

Lastly, could I simply install a shut off switch on the floor to activate the heater? I understand how a remote thermostat will not allow the cool down feature to trigger but if I was to install a shut off, I could at least operate the heater from floor level and leave the thermostat at an acceptable temperature. At least this way, when the heater is done, I can turn it off.

Sorry about all the questions and I appreciate the help