Need a 90's Mustang Expert

[VWandDodge]

A lady where I work has a 1995 Mustang Cobra she "rescued" a few years ago that was badly abused by a former owner's daughter. The mechanic she'd entrusted to work on the car was dishonest and not quite competent, so I've been working on it when the need arises. Last year, I replaced the battery, installed the correct rear bumper cover, and a the ignition cylinder. Recently, I rebuilt the alternator and installed the correct serpentine belt (someone installed the wrong belt, which I believe was running the water pump the wrong way). The alternator is charging everything like it should; however, the speedometer, odometer, and trip odometer aren't working. There's nothing I did under the hood that would have involved disconnecting any cables or wires to the cluster, so I'm thinking there's a blown fuse.

Any ideas are appreciated.

 

[jrherald420]

The odometer/ trip odometer not working is common in older Mustangs, here's the fix....
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-17255OG/94-98-Mustang-Odometer-Repair-Gear-Kit

However if the speedo isnt working i would pull the cable out from the trans and see if all the teeth are still on the gear on the end of the cable first. A bad Speedo gear would cause all of the speedo/ odometer problems. Heres the gear im talking about.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Transmission-Speed-Correction

 

[houdni]

check the vss sensor and wires on the trans. should be near the rear on the tailshaft. wires have a tendency of becoming brittle or saturated from leaks and just break apart...

those models were inbetween years of having a odometer cable and a vss for readings...its been a while since i pulled dashes on those models...im pretty sure i dont remember a odometer cable....then again its been years...

 

[VWandDodge]

Thanks, guys. I'll check into those.

I told her I need to find a manual for this car as I've been having a trying time finding answers on the InterWebt Thingy. Any chances someone can recommend a good manual? I prefer not to rely on Haynes/Chiltons, but something that goes well into detail.

 

[jrherald420]

I love Alldata and Identifix but they are costly. Best option is find the Factory manuals.

 

[jrherald420]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995...90312306987QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

 

[VWandDodge]

I should have thought about E-Bay. Thanks.

 

[houdni]

Youll probably want to purchase this factory manual...its called an EVTM or electronic vacuum troubleshooting manual.

You can order it from www.helminc.com

that one forsale on ebay is not a EVTM...it is indeed a factory manual...just not the electrical portion...

 

[v8muscle]

The CD version of the manual has mechanical and evtm.

VWandDodge pm me for more info.



Bill

 

[nmk_61802]

installed the correct rear bumper cover,

FYI, 94-95 Cobras did not have a cover which said Cobra on them from the factory. They had same rear covers as a GT. This is a common misconception by many owners.

 

[VWandDodge]

The CD version of the manual has mechanical and evtm.

VWandDodge pm me for more info.



Bill

You have PM.

FYI, 94-95 Cobras did not have a cover which said Cobra on them from the factory. They had same rear covers as a GT. This is a common misconception by many owners.

Oops, I should have been more clear. Hers did have a cover with "GT" molded into it; however, it was damaged and she'd found a plain cover for the vehicle that she preferred.

 

[nkachur]

If anybody is interested Mitchell has a do it yourself website that you can access their manuals / service scheduals and TSB on pretty much any make for 1 week / 1 month or 1 year at www.eautorepair.net

 

[VWandDodge]

Just an update -- I learned that this car is actually not a Cobra. It turns out a previous owner threw the Cobra floormats in it and also a 5.0 liter engine. The car actually started life as a 4.6 liter, meaning I have to fumble fart my way around some of this.

 

[willbrown82]

1996 was the first year for the 4.6 in the mustang. If the car is a 95 and started life as a V8 then it would have been a 5.0 and not the 4.6. Are you sure the car is a 95 model year?

 

[VWandDodge]

I double checked the VIN. I believe the hood has been replaced as the sticker underneath shows belt routing for a 4.6 liter engine.
1 United States
F Ford
A Passenger Car
L Active Belts With Driver And Passenger Air Bag
A Ford Passenger Car
42 3 Door GT
T 302 8Cyl 5.0L
8 Check Digit
S 1995
F Dearborn
Number 7679

 

[jrherald420]

Just sell it to me, ill take good care of it.

 

[VWandDodge]

Just sell it to me, ill take good care of it.

I don't think she'd go for that. Her long term plans are to repaint the car (the clear coat is badly peeling) and to repair broken bits as she goes. Apparently, she found the car sitting in a field down near Lawton, Oklahoma.

I admit, the car is somewhat fun to drive. Gotta love that heavy cam and throaty growl of the engine when the accelerator is pressed. When I drove it to my house this past weekend to work on it, I hit the throttle after having come out of a curve at 65mph and the ***-end kicked slightly to one side on me. I'd forgotten that those Mustangs do that when accelerating hard.

 

[mrholeshot]

I wouldn't be calling the former tech " not quite competent" about now. lol

 

[rsanter]

are you sure it wasnt a wreck that got the front clip or front support from a later car that had the 4.6?

bob

 

[VWandDodge]

are you sure it wasnt a wreck that got the front clip or front support from a later car that had the 4.6?

bob

I brought the car to my house last Friday so I could have access to my tools. I studied the sticker under the hood and noticed it had been masked off for painting. The belt diagram is for a 4.6 liter and then I spotted the date - 1996. So, at a minimum I can tell that the hood has been replaced.

I took it for a test drive this evening and finally spotted part of the problem with the speedometer. Somehow, the needle is under the peg where it rests when the vehicle is stopped. When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the needle moves and hits the peg. I have no idea how or why it's in that position.

 

[Jay H 237]

All Ford Mustangs (AFM) and Stangnet are two good forums for these vehicles. I am on AFM but in the classics section.

 

[VWandDodge]

Thanks for the tip.

 

[4BT]

speedo cable could be melted causing an inoperable speedo; I know this was common with the 4 foxbody mustangs that I owned and many others i've worked on.

Odometer and trip odometer are all connected so if the cable is bad then all 4 won't work. 94-95 cobras came with regular V6 rear bumpers without cutouts. The changeover to the 32V cobras in 1996 brought the "Cobra" embossed rear covers. If the car was owned by the previous owner's daughter then it's most likely just an abused GT that's been bounced off a few cars and or immoveable objects during her ownership. Cobras also have a distinct Cobra intake manifold and specific wheels along with a different rear spoiler and the ever-duplicated cobra emblems on each fender.

 

[Killer95Stang]

speedo cable could be melted causing an inoperable speedo; I know this was common with the 4 foxbody mustangs that I owned and many others i've worked on.

Odometer and trip odometer are all connected so if the cable is bad then all 4 won't work. 94-95 cobras came with regular V6 rear bumpers without cutouts. The changeover to the 32V cobras in 1996 brought the "Cobra" embossed rear covers. If the car was owned by the previous owner's daughter then it's most likely just an abused GT that's been bounced off a few cars and or immoveable objects during her ownership. Cobras also have a distinct Cobra intake manifold and specific wheels along with a different rear spoiler and the ever-duplicated cobra emblems on each fender.

Not to mention.... Leather parking brake lever, J1J4 ECM code, no third brake light molded into the trunk lid. 13" front brakes, 11.65" rear brakes, 17" spare tire (most likely gone), White Cobra specific gauge faces.. and I'm pretty sure their is a "D" in the VIN... I need to look up my old list..

I bought my 1995 GT used in 1996... The previous owner pretty much put every part he could from a cobra, minus the body panels and airbags... It still has OEM 1995 Cobra floormats, Leather parking brake, Cobra brakes, J1J4 ECM, and gauge cluster.... It has been garaged since 1996 and still looks perfect 15 years later.

 

[VWandDodge]

This is all some great information and I appreciate the assistance from you Mustang guys. Overall, this is just a 1995 Mustang GT 5.0 liter with some dressing up. As I stated earlier, the hood came from a 1998 and I have not seen any signs of collision damage.

From what scant Internet searches can tell me, I suspect the speedometer cable may be damaged/broken if the odometer and tripmeter aren't operational. Another member here gave me a copy of the Mustang manual on CD; however, I can't use it because it's written for installation on a Windows machine and mine is a Mac. The lady who owns the car can't install it on her laptop as it won't work on Windows 7. She understands that I need to get a manual for the car so I'm not flying blind trying to diagnose some of these issues.

For now, I'm trying to figure out where the speedometer cable connects to the transmission. I understand that the cluster will have to be removed in order to service the cable, but from there I don't know where it disconnects from the transmission and if it is removed into the cabin or through wherever it exits the body. HELP!

 

[95light]

The catch is starting in 94 and going til 2000 there is no cable. There are still speedo gears in the transmission but no cable, I believe its the VSS system of sorts.

If the gears have been changed in the rear to 3.73 or something close they may have put in a 23t gear in the trans which is a off brand from jeep I believe and most of the time gets eaten up over time. If it's a t-5 manual look on the driverside above the transmission crossmember and you'll see a plug with two wires going to a sensor with a c-clip holding it in. I think the c-clip has a bolt that needs a 10mm wretch. Pop the sensor out and take a look at the gear, you'll be able to tell right away if it torn up.

 

[VWandDodge]

The catch is starting in 94 and going til 2000 there is no cable. There are still speedo gears in the transmission but no cable, I believe its the VSS system of sorts.

If the gears have been changed in the rear to 3.73 or something close they may have put in a 23t gear in the trans which is a off brand from jeep I believe and most of the time gets eaten up over time. If it's a t-5 manual look on the driverside above the transmission crossmember and you'll see a plug with two wires going to a sensor with a c-clip holding it in. I think the c-clip has a bolt that needs a 10mm wretch. Pop the sensor out and take a look at the gear, you'll be able to tell right away if it torn up.

Thanks for that information. I may have stated it earlier in this thread, but if I didn't the car has a 5-speed. I can only work on the car in my driveway, it's lowered, and we had some storms come through last night. I'll put it back on ramps and pull that sensor. If there are any issues I'll post some pics.

 

[Killer95Stang]

The catch is starting in 94 and going til 2000 there is no cable. There are still speedo gears in the transmission but no cable, I believe its the VSS system of sorts.

If the gears have been changed in the rear to 3.73 or something close they may have put in a 23t gear in the trans which is a off brand from jeep I believe and most of the time gets eaten up over time. If it's a t-5 manual look on the driverside above the transmission crossmember and you'll see a plug with two wires going to a sensor with a c-clip holding it in. I think the c-clip has a bolt that needs a 10mm wretch. Pop the sensor out and take a look at the gear, you'll be able to tell right away if it torn up.

Exactly right... The 23t Jeep gear is white in color, so that is quick indicator... Its a 10 minute fix...

 

[4BT]

Not to mention.... Leather parking brake lever, J1J4 ECM code, no third brake light molded into the trunk lid. 13" front brakes, 11.65" rear brakes, 17" spare tire (most likely gone), White Cobra specific gauge faces.. and I'm pretty sure their is a "D" in the VIN... I need to look up my old list..

Ahh I forgot the other bits.....I'm not used to working on factory mustangs. Don't think i've wrenched on a Foxbody with factory 4 lug wheels/brakes in least 10 years.


I take 5 lug conversions and stroker motors for granted

 

[NXGTS]

You already know this but the hood was replaced.

The belt routing info on a '95 is on the plastic radiator cover. Most of them are lost over time as it is just a sticker stuck to the plastic. The Corral has a 94-95 forum. I would recommend going over there. They are kind of like the red headed step child of the Mustangs. There are to many differences for them to be like the fox bodies and it is a totally different animal than the '96 and later 4.6 cars.

 

[VWandDodge]

You already know this but the hood was replaced.

The belt routing info on a '95 is on the plastic radiator cover. Most of them are lost over time as it is just a sticker stuck to the plastic. The Corral has a 94-95 forum. I would recommend going over there. They are kind of like the red headed step child of the Mustangs. There are to many differences for them to be like the fox bodies and it is a totally different animal than the '96 and later 4.6 cars.

After a trip to O'Reilly Auto Parts, speaking with the manager whom I'm becoming well acquainted, yielded the proper belt and a belt routing diagram. Fortunately, I brought the VIN with me and he called the local Ford dealer to determine the proper belt (factory A/C vs dealer installed). Once I got home - *zip*, in and good. As it turns out, I had the routing off so the water pump was cavitating (running backwards).

Now, the new problem. I pulled every fuse from both the under hood box as well as the under dash box, to verify all were good. Somewhere along the line, something was tripped because the fuel pump will not energize. I located the fuel pump reset switch thinking it could have been tripped, but it was fine. I'm stumped now as to what it could be.

** Edit **

Seems the car has an aftermarket alarm system installed, which I'm betting disabled the fuel pump. She's going to review the paperwork and also call the company that installed it and get the story. She admitted that was not a good idea.

 

[4BT]

Im not sure about the SN95 mustangs but on the EFI fox cars (86-93) the fuel pump relay is unter the driver's seat and has been known to melt down on occasion. There are also a series of fusible links underhood.....again, I don't know if this applies to the SN cars. An aftermarket alarm may cause the issue especially if it was one of those bargain tint/alarm shops in a rough part of town....who frequently employ wiring butchers to install alarms.

 

[VWandDodge]

I'd like to know where those fusible links are. Since I last posted, a friend's son, who is all about Mustangs, came over with a meter to help me troubleshoot this. The coil was barely putting out 1V which made him think it to be either the ignition module or the coil. It doesn't help that the pigtail to the coil has fried insulation over the wiring. I bought both a new ignition module and a new pigtail. Installed the ignition module and nothing. Yesterday I bought a new coil but have to wait for it to come in from the warehouse.

 

[yellowdartdave]

Mustangs are fun, aren't they ??

They are also excellent tow vehicles.

 

[byoungblood]

I'd like to know where those fusible links are. Since I last posted, a friend's son, who is all about Mustangs, came over with a meter to help me troubleshoot this. The coil was barely putting out 1V which made him think it to be either the ignition module or the coil. It doesn't help that the pigtail to the coil has fried insulation over the wiring. I bought both a new ignition module and a new pigtail. Installed the ignition module and nothing. Yesterday I bought a new coil but have to wait for it to come in from the warehouse.

Most of the Mustangs I have worked on, IF they had fusible links, they were usually right at the starter relay. I haven't been under the hood of a 95 in some time, so I don't recall right offhand if it used fusible links, or if it had a power distribution box instead. My old 99 (again, a totally different beast) had a distribution box.

You can test a coil pretty easily with a meter. Just measure across the primary, and again off of the high voltage terminal to one of the primary terminals. There should be low resistance (less than one ohm) across the primary, and usually over 10k ohms on the secondary. Of course any shorts or opens indicates a problem.

 

[95light]

....or you could just pull the codes off the computer. You can use the jumper wire method on the test plug on the right side of the engine firewall and count the flashes on the check engine light. A two minute google search will bring up were to place the jumper wire and what all the codes mean.

Also, this site could help. Link

 

[VWandDodge]

....or you could just pull the codes off the computer. You can use the jumper wire method on the test plug on the right side of the engine firewall and count the flashes on the check engine light. A two minute google search will bring up were to place the jumper wire and what all the codes mean.

Also, this site could help. Link

Thanks for that link. All of my Internet searches would take me to forums where I really wasn't making any headway.

 

[SWT Racing]

Don't overlook simple things, like the small braided ground strap from the engine to the firewall. I had all sorts of mysterious problems with that one. Especially considering this may be an engine swap car.

Brings back old memories. . .I still want it back:

 

[VWandDodge]

Yeah, it's something in the ignition system. I replaced the coil tonight and nothing. I'm wondering if something was tripped in that ****** aftermarket alarm that disables the ignition system.

I'm getting to the point that I hate this car.

 

[SWT Racing]

I'd check for spark at the plugs to make sure.