Car Detailing - A "How To" write up/walk through WITH PICS

[Rezarf]

Wow, I just read the whole thing. Thanks for taking the time to post it up, I learned a lot and cleared up a few wrong thoughts I had.

On a scale of 1-10, how hard is polishing with a polisher for the average guy? I get the danger of burning the paint and have wanted to give it a go, but not at the cost of a new paint job. I have used industrial floor sanders and waxers so I get the "keep it moving" principle, I have just had a hard time diving in.

I am going to repaint my old landcruiser next year and thought about using it in its current state as a guinea pig for future projects.

 

[A**holes Garage]

Wow, I just read the whole thing. Thanks for taking the time to post it up, I learned a lot and cleared up a few wrong thoughts I had.

On a scale of 1-10, how hard is polishing with a polisher for the average guy? I get the danger of burning the paint and have wanted to give it a go, but not at the cost of a new paint job. I have used industrial floor sanders and waxers so I get the "keep it moving" principle, I have just had a hard time diving in.

I am going to repaint my old landcruiser next year and thought about using it in its current state as a guinea pig for future projects.

I'd rate it a 5 with the right equipment and products and it really depends on how bad your paint/clear coat is.

I'm not a pro like Will but I've detailed my share of cars and trucks over the years, mostly my own.

I like you, needed better results and was hesitant on doing full paint detailing myself. But the only way to get the proper results is to do it with polishes, cutting pads and orbital polishers. There is no way you can get the same results by hand except when applying or taking off a sealer or top coat.

With the correct orbital polisher, pads and polishes, you can safely detail your car without worrying about burning through your clear coat and paint and get professional results.

One thing to consider too is that every car manufacturer seems to apply their own thickness and hardness of their clear coats. So keep that in mind when detailing different cars you may own. Results also depend how old your vehicle is, UV damage, etc.

For a beginner, I'd look at AutoGeek's basic Porter Cable kit. Take a look at the different cutting pads and polishes.

http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html

http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/search?catalog=autogeek&query=polishes&x=0&y=0

I like the Meguire's and 3M polishes, Great Lakes pads, Wolfgang products.

Some scratches and imperfections will not come out without the risk of burning through. Rule of thumb is if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it's too deep to polish out. Swirl and halo removal will take multiple steps with different pads and polishes to slowly eliminate them.

Also, be careful on corners or edges around headlights, fender edges, etc. these areas are the easiest to burn through if you lean hard with the wrong pad and polish combo. I'd do those by hand if your worried about burn through.

As Wills said, there is a lot information on AutoGeek on detailing. Lot's of different equipment and products. If you're serious about detailing, it's not cheap and it is very time consuming. But, you can get professional results if you do a little research, have patience and a few days without your car on the road.

 

[Lawson4450]

Since this detail (this was done last year) ive got the 3401 and its a great machine.

Never used Adams so can't say good or bad about it but have seen good work from it. Price is too high for me, Meguiars is my go to for most things.

BTW, got the pop up tent since then too ol

lol catch their daily special usually get good deals on stuff if you get a chance check out their forum you wont be dissappointed. What I love is their customer service with a 110 percent money back guarantee and probably 90 plus percent of their products are american made. Also how many companies does the owner put his own cell phone number on the forum? I can call adam anytime and I have called him directly with questions. I have also had dinner with him a few times really if you get a chance check out adamspolishes.com you wont regret it.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

I don't really care if you advertise or are a vendor on other Forum's. Are you a paying vendor on this one? Seems like you know the rules on advertising in forum's based upon your response. And that's fine if The Garage Forum has lenient advertising rules. I'll start linking my sites if they allow it for free.

I've been doing internet sales for 10 years now and I started out like you, throwing some "how to's", "look at this product", knowing very well that very few readers have the skills, time or equipment to do what I made.

It draws attention to you and your site at zero cost, it's very effective free advertising and it works. I sold a lot of product that way.

However most forum's would lock down a thread like this and would consider it Spam.

I'm not a hater, you have a nice website, looks like you do good work, didn't say you didn't. I simply asked if you're not advertising your service, then simply remove the link to your site. So?......

The only reason I posted is that I'm a vendor on other sites as well and I perceived your post is a thinly veiled advertisement that's all.

And......don't flatter yourself thinking I'm stalking you...

I have the same signature on ANY forum i belong to - boats, music, cars, technology...whatever...its always the same, i just think it puts a little bit more of a face and personality to who i am if anyone cares to look.

You said 'great free advertising, this is all available on AG if you search it' basically insinuating that im just reiterating what someone else has said. These are all MY pictures, MY works and MY experiences that ive learned along the way. Ive learned things from AG, from other people and from just TRYING stuff...i've posted on CAR forums for advertising, but i have to pay...and i target forums of MY state. This one i sincerely did/do not expect to get a job from, trust me...then following up with 'how many cars have you done, 6 or 7' really kind of eliminated your 'point' of me trying to advertise for free.

I dont have a TON of info or tips to help people with electrical or tile or whatever, but i do know how to do detailing very well, other stuff i know a decent amount about but am still more of a learner than a teacher, so this was simply my way of trying to give back to the forum...period.

 

[larry_g]

I dont have a TON of info or tips to help people with electrical or tile or whatever, but i do know how to do detailing very well, other stuff i know a decent amount about but am still more of a learner than a teacher, so this was simply my way of trying to give back to the forum...period.

I for one thank you for giving. Ignore the aholes.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Steevo]

An excellent post, full of valuable information and tips and techniques.
The most valuable thing I learned is that this is a job best left to a professional.

Beautiful work you do there, Wills. Windows and Wheels!!!

 

[overthehump]

That's some great information. Loved it, but I have a question....I'm restoring/rebuilding a vintage 1968 Streamline (all anodized aluminum). I plan on painting the exterior silver as the anodized aluminum has streaks & stains from 43 years of use & abuse. My question is can you get a mirror shine on silver paint to rival a polished aluminum trailer?

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

I for one thank you for giving. Ignore the aholes.

lg
no neat sig line

Thank you...and i will

An excellent post, full of valuable information and tips and techniques.
The most valuable thing I learned is that this is a job best left to a professional.

Beautiful work you do there, Wills. Windows and Wheels!!!

lol thanks man, be careful w/that last line though, you might be 'promoting' me!

That's some great information. Loved it, but I have a question....I'm restoring/rebuilding a vintage 1968 Streamline (all anodized aluminum). I plan on painting the exterior silver as the anodized aluminum has streaks & stains from 43 years of use & abuse. My question is can you get a mirror shine on silver paint to rival a polished aluminum trailer?

It depends on how good of a painter you are or are having do it for you lol.
Paint polishes out differently than bare aluminum so the shine will be 'different' so to speak but can still be similar.

First, are you doing a single stage paint or doing a base coat/clear coat?

Second of all you have to choose carefully the color of paint. The clarity and shine of the paint will come after then painting is done. Its the sanding, buffing and polishing that gives the paint that crystal clear look.

You will see in factory paint jobs what we call 'orange peel' which is because the clear coat isn't sanded down and polished out after being sprayed. The reason is because factory clear coats are usually too THIN to sand down and still leave enough of a layer (i believe 1.3 mils is the minimum amount of paint required for the clear coat not to fail) to not fail.

You can see the difference there...so that will greatly help with the clarity if you have a proper cut and buff job done. Painters USUALLY don't have the best people following up their paint job...paint looks real nice in the shade, but the sun is either orange peeled or swirled and hologramed.

Holograms look like this:

This comes from someone using a rotary buffer incorrectly and buffing out the paint unevenly which is seen QUITE often after a repaint. I can't say all paint jobs come out that way, that would be unfair, but id say its more often than not in the best of shape.

I HAVE seen a paint you might be interested in...its EXPENSIVE as s*** but, if you have the money, look into this http://www.innate.com/Paint/Chrome/Alumifec.htm


Again, even with this great paint, if it is not FINISHED down properly...you wont get the full effect that you're looking for (that crystal clear reflection).

The good thing is, after REpaints..the clear is generally MUCH thicker than a factory clear, so you can have it wetsanded and buffed out. Its usually a multi-step process after its painted (wet sand the orange peel flat, then compound with a wool pad to remove sanding marks, followed by a compound with a foam pad to remove light swirls left from wool pad, then a polish on either a DA or rotary to get the paint to a high gloss, sometimes a SECOND pass with a finishing polish using a rotary on its lowest speed to 'jewel' the paint as its called, then lastly a wax or sealant will be applied, but typically the paint must have 30 days to cure after painting before any wax is applied)

I hope that helped some, if you have anymore questions let me know

 

[haugy]

Good write up. I normally restore gelcoats on boats so I'm used to a much more durable finish than automotive paint.

Some questions I have for you.

1) As mentioned by Larry G, how do you maintain your MF towels, sponges, and waxing pads? What are the steps for cleaning and storage that you use?

2) What do you use for Clay bar spray (lube)?

3) I can never seem to find clay bars, or sprays, or good waxes around here at any Auto supply store or Wally world. Do you know of any chains or stores that carry a lot of what you listed?

4) When you mentioned cleaning your pads, that's the one that always confused me. I know I needed to do it, but wasn't sure about how. I have a 9" orbital for slow speed polishing as I save for a big boy dewalt/Makita. But when I use a stiff brush to clean the pad, do I just cycle the buffer a bit to let the brush go to town on the pad, and then get back to it?

5) Alot of the places around here only sell wool pads or terry cotton. I don't like the cotton as it looks like it grimes up and would do damage. As with the chains or stores, where do you get your pads?

 

[Stuart in MN]

What are your thoughts on using a silicone squeegee during the drying process? The idea is to squeegee off most of the standing water, then finish up with a microfiber towel. They're not supposed to cause any scratches, and it would speed up the process.

 

[Matt M PA]

I'm not sure if the above questions are "open"...but I'll take a swing to help..

haugy...wax pads, microfibre towels, can be washed in the clothes washer. Warm wash, cold rinse.

For clay bar lube I use a capful of car wash shop in spray bottle of water. I am a big fan of Zaino's clay bar, but it's not available at local stores.

As far as pad cleaning goes, I use a Lake Country Pad Washer. It looks like a 5 gallon bucket with some spurs and a wheel inside. The pad turns a wheel that brings solution up and the spurs clean the pad. Put the pad on my rotary, and go to down. Takes about 30 seconds a pad.

I use foam pads by a number of makers, and they come in a wide variety from cutting to finishing. Your lcoal auto body supply shop should have 'em by Meguairs if you want to avoid on line shopping.

Stuart...the silicone baldes do work, but if there's one little thing on the surface you could get a good scratch as it gets dragged across.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Good write up. I normally restore gelcoats on boats so I'm used to a much more durable finish than automotive paint.

Some questions I have for you.

1) As mentioned by Larry G, how do you maintain your MF towels, sponges, and waxing pads? What are the steps for cleaning and storage that you use?

2) What do you use for Clay bar spray (lube)?

3) I can never seem to find clay bars, or sprays, or good waxes around here at any Auto supply store or Wally world. Do you know of any chains or stores that carry a lot of what you listed?

4) When you mentioned cleaning your pads, that's the one that always confused me. I know I needed to do it, but wasn't sure about how. I have a 9" orbital for slow speed polishing as I save for a big boy dewalt/Makita. But when I use a stiff brush to clean the pad, do I just cycle the buffer a bit to let the brush go to town on the pad, and then get back to it?

5) Alot of the places around here only sell wool pads or terry cotton. I don't like the cotton as it looks like it grimes up and would do damage. As with the chains or stores, where do you get your pads?

Ill start with the MF towels first.

First way to help keep them in good shape is to have certain ones you only use for drying, others you only use for polish and wax removal, a 3rd set preferably for just windows, and then any that are in dirty shape but not horrible can get used on rims and tired.

I recommend washing the first 3 sets in a load of their own. SOME people are really OCD and will only wash drying towels with drying towels, window towels with window towels etc etc...but if you dont have 100+ towels of each set you're doing...it doesn't make sense to do all that. I would just say wash the REALLY bad ones in a load of their own.

Also, only wash them with other MF towels..you start throwing in terry towels or cloths with em and they will lose their absorbent properties and get lint tangled up in them.

DONT use fabric softener of any sort, i prefer scentless liquid soap, power will still work but the less 'stuff' the soap has in it (fragrance etc.) the better.

DONT use a dryer sheet, just put them in there and let em dry on a lower setting. Some folks will let them dry abotu 90% and then allow them to air dry out to keep them soft and fluffy. Ive found the higher quality MFs (expensive ones that run around $5-7 a pop) tent to last longer even if you do dry them fully. Cheaper ones will still be in decent shape but tend to 'flatten' out after a few washes...but they still work.

For storage id say get some sort of a rubber maid set up. Some people have the rollout drawer types...some have just a big tub (thats what i use since i have quite a lot) and then i just take what i need in my 'rag bag' whhen i go onto jobs.

Take care of them...try not to ever drop them on the ground...they will pick up all kinds of loose dust and debris and the cloth will be shot for that job, most times washing will clean them out but sometimes you end up having to pick little pieces of debris out which isn't fun...its easier to just keep them as clean as possible.

Also i try to use one type of MF for removing compounds/polishes (abrasive), and another set for waxes (non abrasive products).

Clay Bar Lube:

You can use as Matt said, water with some soap in it. Id recommend car wash soap if you go this route. The BEST route is generally spray wax or 'detail spray'. Like Mothers Clay Bar kit (at walmart for bout $10 i think?) comes with a detail spray and clay bar...give that one a shot and see how you like it if you want something locally. The key is to make sure the lube is well...lubing! If you feel dragging you're either not getting the surface wet enough or you're lube isn't slippery enough

I like AutoGeek.net. Yes you have to order online and wait for shipping, but they have a great collection and selection of stuff. From clay to wax to polishes etc. If you KNOW what you're looking for you can look on c.list or amazon or ebay and find deals sometimes. If you want something local, try y our local auto paint supply store...though i will say that the one in my area has their stuff greatly overpriced.

Pad Cleaning:

As Matt said also, a pad cleaning bucket is a life saver, they're about $125 lol but worth it (i say that cause i finally bit it and got one). For wool pads you'll want a 'pad spur' and you can use it to 'comb out' the gummed up compound on your pad while the pad is not turning. For FOAM pads you usually want to use a nylon brush or some sort and just 'clean on the fly' meaning after you do a section, use the brush to go over the face of the pad until most of the 'dust' stops coming out. Also id say get a decent shape terry or MF and hold it against the face of the pad while you run it on low...it will help used product transfer to the towle and off the surface of the pad.

Again i get my pads from Autogeek.net. Autodetailingsolutions.com also has some good deals at times. There are other supply stores online but those are the 2 i use the most. If you need any help with specific selection let me know. Just post on here or email or PM or whatever you want

What are your thoughts on using a silicone squeegee during the drying process? The idea is to squeegee off most of the standing water, then finish up with a microfiber towel. They're not supposed to cause any scratches, and it would speed up the process.

Same as Matt said, if a little debris gets caught under it you can leave a nice scratch. Even though you just washed it...a little breeze has many times put **** right back on my paint before i dry it lol. So i'd use a blower to speed it up...or the 'sheeting' technique listed earlier in the post.

I'm not sure if the above questions are "open"...but I'll take a swing to help..

haugy...wax pads, microfibre towels, can be washed in the clothes washer. Warm wash, cold rinse.

For clay bar lube I use a capful of car wash shop in spray bottle of water. I am a big fan of Zaino's clay bar, but it's not available at local stores.

As far as pad cleaning goes, I use a Lake Country Pad Washer. It looks like a 5 gallon bucket with some spurs and a wheel inside. The pad turns a wheel that brings solution up and the spurs clean the pad. Put the pad on my rotary, and go to down. Takes about 30 seconds a pad.

I use foam pads by a number of makers, and they come in a wide variety from cutting to finishing. Your lcoal auto body supply shop should have 'em by Meguairs if you want to avoid on line shopping.

Stuart...the silicone baldes do work, but if there's one little thing on the surface you could get a good scratch as it gets dragged across.

good answers!

 

[Lawson4450]

here is a writeup from adams about microfiber towels if i am not allowed to post this link will a mod remove it please.
http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/microfiber-products/7331.htm

 

[Mmfh]

This is a good thread, I actually learned something I didn't know existed. Clay bars for cleaning? That one is totally new to me but I"m going to see if I can find one.

I cut many cars and tons of boats and RV's, boats and RV's are much less stressful, don't have to worry so much about going through the finish.

I picked up the Porter Cable 7428, very nice feel to it. The variable speed and slow start feature make it easy to control. I like to get it going slow so I don't throw compound everywhere and than with my thumb give the speed knob on the handle a little more and speed it up on the fly.

I would think if a person wanted to buy their first rotary this would be a good one to start with. Slow start and variable speed make it my favorite.

Only thing I have bad to say about it is, the handle is plastic, like the entire body of the unit, but the handle doesn't seem to have enough screws in it as some times I can feel the two sides of the handle moving independent of each other. Has not done anymore than that but makes it feel like they should have given it a few more fasteners holding the handle together.

Thanks for this thread, I enjoyed reading it.

Mm

 

[Matt M PA]

I'd like to add that another great machine...at least for me...is the Makita BO6040. It not only operates similar to a PC, except more powerful....but also as a "forced rotation" at the turn of a switch. The best way to describe forced rotation is a record album with the hole slightly off center. It can cut almost as hard as a rotary...without the potential for halograms. It has slow start. A very nice machine. FWIW

 

[PeterT]

Great write up. I certainly learned a lot from it. I would much rather read something like this then some of the other posts i.e. 'What color did you paint your workbench'?

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

This is a good thread, I actually learned something I didn't know existed. Clay bars for cleaning? That one is totally new to me but I"m going to see if I can find one.

I cut many cars and tons of boats and RV's, boats and RV's are much less stressful, don't have to worry so much about going through the finish.

I picked up the Porter Cable 7428, very nice feel to it. The variable speed and slow start feature make it easy to control. I like to get it going slow so I don't throw compound everywhere and than with my thumb give the speed knob on the handle a little more and speed it up on the fly.

I would think if a person wanted to buy their first rotary this would be a good one to start with. Slow start and variable speed make it my favorite.

Only thing I have bad to say about it is, the handle is plastic, like the entire body of the unit, but the handle doesn't seem to have enough screws in it as some times I can feel the two sides of the handle moving independent of each other. Has not done anymore than that but makes it feel like they should have given it a few more fasteners holding the handle together.

Thanks for this thread, I enjoyed reading it.

Mm

You will love the clay bar. You know when you clean a car and wax it...and then go to remove the wax and you feel that 'drag'...thats the leftover contaminants that washing DIDNT remove..i HATE that, so much so that now even on my low level wash and wax jobs, i do a clay bar...period. The time is about the same for the most part, because when i go to remove or even APPLY the wax, its just like rubbing on butter, and wipes off the same way. The SLICKNESS of the paint when you're done, even before wax is addicting lol...you will NEVER go back to not using a clay bar before waxing again (note you dont have to do it everytime, but once or twice a year should be plenty).

I bought the Makita 9227, it goes down to 600 RPM, great for jeweling paint..slow start too. The Flex 3401 is a sweet 'hybrid'...it has forced rotation, very smooth...control trigger, expensive but i really enjoy using it.

Griots is my favorite DA in the classic sense of a DA..cheap, lifetime warranty and strong.

I'd like to add that another great machine...at least for me...is the Makita BO6040. It not only operates similar to a PC, except more powerful....but also as a "forced rotation" at the turn of a switch. The best way to describe forced rotation is a record album with the hole slightly off center. It can cut almost as hard as a rotary...without the potential for halograms. It has slow start. A very nice machine. FWIW

Sounds like a nice machine, never heard of it, got a link or video?

Great write up. I certainly learned a lot from it. I would much rather read something like this then some of the other posts i.e. 'What color did you paint your workbench'?

lol well i wouldn't mind a thread like that if they show HOW they painted their work bench ..i like step by steps, but im glad you liked this write up

 

[Matt M PA]

Best I can do at the moment

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules...or it. I've since switched to Kompessor pads.

 

[Pathfinder]

Great write up Willis. I appreciate the time you took to educate us. And like Larry G said ignore the aholes. There's one or two in every forum.

I've seen clay bars mentioned a lot, but never have I seen a description of how they are used. With the exception of the lube mentioned in this thread of course. How fast is the bar moved across the surface? How often do you knead or fold the clay? When do you know when it is time for a new bar? What are the storage requirements?

John

 

[Lawson4450]

just be very careful with forced rotation machines because YOU WILL BURN the paint if you dont know what you are doing! if your new start with a rotary polisher like a porter cable or the griots machine or mequires machine because you can push as hard as you want and the machine will just stop. but a forced rotation machine will got hot and will burn your paint so please start slow and learn before you move up. I just moved up to the flex 3401 which is a combination forced and orbital difficult to burn paint but you still can with it.

 

[Lawson4450]

Here is a video on the PC from Adams polishes if anyone is concerned about using something like the PC
http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/junkmans-corner/4034.htm

 

[Matt M PA]

Pathfinder, clay is amazing.

I use the Zaino clay, (brand really doesn't change the technique) and tear a bar in half. Then, kneed it into a flat "patty".

Now, starting with a washed surface, wet the surface with the lubricating spray, be it a mixture of car soap and water or detail spray, etc. The surface needs to be pretty wet so that the clay will glide across the surface without getting hung up on a dry area.

I use slight pressure and let the clay do the work. You'll want to concentrate on an area about three foot square at a time. Basically, you will wipe back and forth until the surface is smooth.

Storage? Put it back in the tub it came in.

Once the side you are using gets dirty....and you'll see it....turn it over or kneed to a
clean spot. Once you can't find a clean side to the clay..it's time to get a new hunk. If you drop it...either discard, or check very carefully for dirt, grit or something that could scratch.

Hope this helps..

 

[udunnome]

Claying is easy and will yield huge improvements in finish and performance. If your paint hasn't been clayed, it needs it. For DIY, only use non-abrasive clay bars.

To prove it, place your hand in a sandwich bag and gently glide it across a "clean" body panel. You will feel and hear the surface contaminants as you glide across the paint. These contaminants distract from the optical clarity of the finish and hurt the durability and performance of any protective product applied.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Great write up Willis. I appreciate the time you took to educate us. And like Larry G said ignore the aholes. There's one or two in every forum.

I've seen clay bars mentioned a lot, but never have I seen a description of how they are used. With the exception of the lube mentioned in this thread of course. How fast is the bar moved across the surface? How often do you knead or fold the clay? When do you know when it is time for a new bar? What are the storage requirements?

John

You generally want to put just light pressure on the clay...as for movement some people go really fast, but from my experience that doesn't give the clay as much time to grab onto the contaminants so just an average speed...id say about the hand speed that you'd use to sand wood (approx?).

You'll know by how it FEELS...you dont want it to GRAB, but you also dont want it to hydroplane because that means its not picking up any contaminants. Knead the clay as needed (hah i made a funny)...what i mean is...some cars you have to do it after just a 1/4 or a hood...others you can do the full hood and then knead it...just check uyour clay, see how dirty it gets...when it looks dirty, knead it. If you're in cold weather id recommend putting the clay in the mircowave for a few seconds to warm it and make it easier to mold.

Id say its time for a new bar when you cant knead and get a clean surface to show up on the clay you're using. Personally i use the Hi-Tech Magna Sponge from autodetailingsolutions.com because $20 for clay every few cars can get expensive. Plus with the sponge you can just rinse it clean.

If you use clay DONT DROP IT! i can't emphasize that enough. If you drop a piece, its trash, period. It'll pick up too much dirty/**** from the ground so BE CAREFUL.

For storage, i use an air tight rubbermaid thing..spray a little detailing spray in with it befor you close it up and it should be good next time you use it

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Claying is easy and will yield huge improvements in finish and performance. If your paint hasn't been clayed, it needs it. For DIY, only use non-abrasive clay bars.

To prove it, place your hand in a sandwich bag and gently glide it across a "clean" body panel. You will feel and hear the surface contaminants as you glide across the paint. These contaminants distract from the optical clarity of the finish and hurt the durability and performance of any protective product applied.

Just becareful when you start to HEAR too much dragging, then its time to knead the clay.

Also i forgot to add, keep a MF with you..after you clay a section, wiipe it dry and then use a dry hand to check your area, you should have no problems though . Id also mention hoods/roofs/trunks are usually worse since they are horizontal and by nature alone, more things land on them

Lastly, you can put a plastic bag over your hand and its suppose to heighten your fingers sensitivity to feel any contaminants on your paint.

 

[Pathfinder]

Thanks for the tips regarding clay bars guys. They are most helpful.

John

 

[udunnome]

You never want ANY drag on a clay bar as you glide it across the surface. Some clear coats are so soft that any aggressive or pressured claying will scar the surface.

I usually clay a car by feel. While working the clay bar with one hand, I constantly spray lubricant and feel the surface with my other hand.

Prior to claying, wash the car with Liquid Dawn dish detergent as thoroughly as you ever have before. This cuts down on the oils and grease that contaminate the clay. Now put the Dawn back in the kitchen because we don't use it to wash our cars again. Do not clay as a substitute for poor washing. You will contaminate the clay prematurely and potentially scar your paint... you very thoroughly washed (right???!!)

Pay special attention to washing and rinsing around seams, badges, and joints in panels. This is wear sand and grit can hide and become lodged in your clay.

For a DIY start at claying, gliding the clay across the paint should feel like a hockey puck on ice. Remember..... hockey puck on ice. Hockey puck on ice...

 

[udunnome]

Also...

Start by claying only ONE section. Do not clay the ENTIRE vehicle and THEN inspect for issues. Look at the section of paint with bright LIGHT like halogens before claying. Look at and feel the surface. Turn the lights off or away from the surface to avoid increasing surface temps. Clay your section as described with the tips posted above, but then wipe or rinse the area clean and inspect it. Look and feel and compare this to a not clayed surface before moving on.

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Also...

Start by claying only ONE section. Do not clay the ENTIRE vehicle and THEN inspect for issues. Look at the section of paint with bright LIGHT like halogens before claying. Look at and feel the surface. Turn the lights off or away from the surface to avoid increasing surface temps. Clay your section as described with the tips posted above, but then wipe or rinse the area clean and inspect it. Look and feel and compare this to a not clayed surface before moving on.

Gotta love feeling that 50/50. I did a dodge ram a few months ago, the previous owner had someone build a house right next to him...and well..they painted it. The paint felt like sand paper. THAT was a lot of freakin work to clay all that off but it turned out so smooth in the end, it was worth it.

 

[nathank]

And that's fine if The Garage Forum has lenient advertising rules. I'll start linking my sites if they allow it for free.

Something tells me the flooring forum would be in trouble if this wasn't the case.


Great writeup OP. I learned quite a bit from your posts.

 

[HiccaBurp]

Thanks for the great write up! I'm about to do my first full detail of my BLACK '07 Toyota Prius. Your thread has given me the confidence to go at it myself. Couple questions..

1. If I'm going to clay, would it be ok to go to my local car wash I've been using and come straight home to start the clay process? With 4 kids, time is in short supply around here

2. Can you show some pics of "taping off" emblems and plastic/rubber areas? What product? Plain masking tape? Blue painters tape?

3. I've seen some handheld type orbital wax applicator units. Any info on these? I'm planning on purchasing the PC or Griots orbital polishers. But I would not use these for sealer/wax application/removal? Or would I?

Thanks again for the great write up!!

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Thanks for the great write up! I'm about to do my first full detail of my BLACK '07 Toyota Prius. Your thread has given me the confidence to go at it myself. Couple questions..

1. If I'm going to clay, would it be ok to go to my local car wash I've been using and come straight home to start the clay process? With 4 kids, time is in short supply around here

2. Can you show some pics of "taping off" emblems and plastic/rubber areas? What product? Plain masking tape? Blue painters tape?

3. I've seen some handheld type orbital wax applicator units. Any info on these? I'm planning on purchasing the PC or Griots orbital polishers. But I would not use these for sealer/wax application/removal? Or would I?

Thanks again for the great write up!!

Oooo black huh, first detail on a black car, you'll have fun with it trust me lol.

1. You should be ok if the drive is short. Id recommend maybe doing a quick wipe down when you get home if you see any dust (use a spray wax, even the spray wax you'll be using to clay with) just to be safe and to help avoid any extra swirls.

2. I only have a couple pics of things taped off but this link should give you some good visuals http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...buffing/23865-if-has-paint-gets-polished.html

Basically when you're taping off you want to focus on things you dont want to get compound or wax on under any circumstances. So, rubber trim is a big one (especially if its not the smooth type). Emblems too as you said. As for type, it depends...ive used both. Blue painters tape comes off much easier and leaves less glue on whatever you tape off, but sometimes it wont stick to itself...what i mean is...when you overlap one piece of tape onto another, sometimes it wont stick...the regular masking tape sticks better for that purpose. Also when you are buffing try not to go OVER the tape too much because it will rip off (ive done it lol) and just make a mess.

3. YES you can ABSOLUTELY use the PC or Griots for waxing, id recommend it any day over the orbital (though for JUST waxing the orbital would work fine, it WONT however remove any defects).

What you want to do is set your speed down when you wax. Usually speed 2.5 on the griots or speed 3 on the PC is what i set it at. Just know that sometimes you have to use a hand pad in tight spots, but for doing 99% of the car, a D.A polisher makes it MUCH easier.

Note you want to apply a THIN layer of wax, not thick...because if its too thick you'll have to scrub it off after it dries...not only is that a pain in the ***, it also puts you at risk of putting scratches right back into the paint you just polished! So if you use a liquid wax or sealant, i usually apply a 'W' so to speak or something in the shape of 'WM', kinda like a squiggle lol...but with a very thin bead of wax. The after your pad is primed after the first pass, you should be able to use even less for the following sections.

If you use a PASTE wax..then you'll want to either completely remove the wax from the container onto a MF towel...then just rub the face of the pad over the wax only 2 or 3 times and then apply. Personally i just let the wax slide about 1/3 out of the tub, rub it on the pad and then let it slide back in.

Have you picked out your products yet?

 

[HiccaBurp]

Oooo black huh, first detail on a black car, you'll have fun with it trust me lol.

LOL.. yeah, I'm known for going all in My other option is the wifes gray metallic '04 Mazda MPV minivan. Two issues.. first, it's bigger and more challenging with all the spoilers, roof strips, etc.. Second, if I mess up her van.. the consequences would be far greater then any damage I can do to my own vehicle!! LOL I also have a white '03 Chevy Express 3500 extended work van. I'm thinking about a week to cover all that real estate would do??

1. You should be ok if the drive is short. Id recommend maybe doing a quick wipe down when you get home if you see any dust (use a spray wax, even the spray wax you'll be using to clay with) just to be safe and to help avoid any extra swirls.

Yes, it's short and I'll detail spray it as I go. I might wash it at home, but just in case. With the daylight hours getting shorter and shorter, getting home and washing might not be possible. While detailing in my well lit and heated garage is

2. I only have a couple pics of things taped off but this link should give you some good visuals http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...buffing/23865-if-has-paint-gets-polished.html

Basically when you're taping off you want to focus on things you dont want to get compound or wax on under any circumstances. So, rubber trim is a big one (especially if its not the smooth type). Emblems too as you said. As for type, it depends...ive used both. Blue painters tape comes off much easier and leaves less glue on whatever you tape off, but sometimes it wont stick to itself...what i mean is...when you overlap one piece of tape onto another, sometimes it wont stick...the regular masking tape sticks better for that purpose. Also when you are buffing try not to go OVER the tape too much because it will rip off (ive done it lol) and just make a mess.

Thank for the quick response! That helps out

3. YES you can ABSOLUTELY use the PC or Griots for waxing, id recommend it any day over the orbital (though for JUST waxing the orbital would work fine, it WONT however remove any defects).

What you want to do is set your speed down when you wax. Usually speed 2.5 on the griots or speed 3 on the PC is what i set it at. Just know that sometimes you have to use a hand pad in tight spots, but for doing 99% of the car, a D.A polisher makes it MUCH easier.

Note you want to apply a THIN layer of wax, not thick...because if its too thick you'll have to scrub it off after it dries...not only is that a pain in the ***, it also puts you at risk of putting scratches right back into the paint you just polished! So if you use a liquid wax or sealant, i usually apply a 'W' so to speak or something in the shape of 'WM', kinda like a squiggle lol...but with a very thin bead of wax. The after your pad is primed after the first pass, you should be able to use even less for the following sections.

If you use a PASTE wax..then you'll want to either completely remove the wax from the container onto a MF towel...then just rub the face of the pad over the wax only 2 or 3 times and then apply. Personally i just let the wax slide about 1/3 out of the tub, rub it on the pad and then let it slide back in.

Again, thanks for the great info and the time you spent to help out a stranger!!

Have you picked out your products yet?

Machine: I have not purchased yet. Looking at the PC 7424xp or PC 7436sp or the Griots. Still trying to figure out which one is the correct PC.. I guess one is hook and loop, the other is not? Which one would you recommend?

Products:
I purchased Mothers clay bar kit(clay bar and detail spray).
I also have some Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow wax 26 laying around from a long time ago. Still looks and smells good?
Before I read up on the subject, I purchased some Turtle Wax "Carnauba Cleaner Wax" paste wax and some "super hard shell" liquid wax. Should I toss this stuff and buy recommended products, or is there a way to use it and purchase the better quality stuff as time goes by?
I've also got some car wash liquid, wheel cleaners, window cleaners, tire shine, etc..

Two More Questions:
1. If I purchase and apply a paint sealer, how long do I have to wait to apply a wax afterwards?
2. I read somewhere that you can use a chrome polish on your windshield?

Again, I thank you for all the helpful info you have posted and the quick response! Great job!

 

[Matt M PA]

Hiccaburp....I have the 7424xp. The 7436 is sold more as a sander and I don't think either comes with a hook and loop pad for buff pads. Some think that double duty as a polisher and sander would be good...but I'd be conceded about sawdust, etc, unless it was cleaned very carefully after use.

You'll need to get a HookIt plate by 3M (or equiv) and if you buy the machine from an online detailing place...they'll have them...and maybe in a package.

Wax. I don't use wax anymore. In my opinion, the synthetic sealants have gotten so good, nice shine, and last so much longer that I just don't use wax. Some of the sealants need to cure. If you want to top with wax, I would say to try a small spot and see how it dries, ifit smears, etc.

I've never use chrome polish on glass, so it's hard to comment. Zaino makes a great glass polish that I use often with my PC.

One more clay note. I had a detail for an older lady's Cadillac this week. She keeps it garaged and keeps a car nice. When I returned the car, and we chatted a bit..she kept stroking the fender because she's loves it to be smooth.

 

[magilla]

Perhaps I missed it, but in reading through this thread I see no mention of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. I've been using it for 7-8 years on all my vehicles, even the 1968 Mustang. And on my fiberglas boat. I have yet to see a product that is so easy to work with (applying and buffing off), last so long (still beads up after a long winter in NE Ohio), and gives that wet look shine.

Any other Collinite 845 fans here?

 

[vtx531]

What if you don't live in AZ and your car is rusting through the paint?

 

[Mmfh]

just be very careful with forced rotation machines because YOU WILL BURN the paint if you dont know what you are doing! if your new start with a rotary polisher like a porter cable or the griots machine or mequires machine because you can push as hard as you want and the machine will just stop. but a forced rotation machine will got hot and will burn your paint so please start slow and learn before you move up. I just moved up to the flex 3401 which is a combination forced and orbital difficult to burn paint but you still can with it.

You say to start with a rotary, like the above machines, and you can push as hard as you want and it will just stop.
I don't know about the others, but the Porter Cable I have, 7428, will not just stop. That thing has a ton of power, when I first got it I was doing a Motorhome, the kind with the wavy sides, I burned right through the fiberglass holding it over my head trying to be in a hurry and not get a ladder.

Don't know about the others but with mine, you do need to be careful!

Mm

 

[Matt M PA]

I've used 845. Works well, but not my "go to" product. I prefer to use a PC to apply, so it's a bit thicker than I prefer. (It was designed for electrical insulators)

Now, I prefer Klasse AIO or Zaino. Both are synthetic, but the Klasse is wipe on...wipe off. No waiting to dry.

 

[udunnome]

1. If I'm going to clay, would it be ok to go to my local car wash I've been using and come straight home to start the clay process? With 4 kids, time is in short supply around here

Absolutely not. Out of the question. The car needs to be washed by hand. Pressure washing isn't an acceptable substitute. You can do the bulk cleaning at the car wash, but you have to hand wash the car again before claying.

2. Can you show some pics of "taping off" emblems and plastic/rubber areas? What product? Plain masking tape? Blue painters tape?

 

[Matt M PA]

I too would agree against claying a car that's been driven. Once they hit the road...they're too dirty for claying. (I even know guys who drive their collector and cover the dirty car when they get home)

The grit and dirt accumulates fast...and I think there is real potential for problems.