Mr Heater 75k

[turbosl2]

I am looking to add heat to my garage. I have done alot of research on here but still have some questions on what size heater and the vent pipe.

I have a 24x36 garage that need some heat in:

- 24' x 24' of it has a vaulted ceiling at 9/12 pitch to 14.5' ceiling. R19 insulation in the ceiling, 2x4 walls with R13 in the walls.

- 12' x 24' has a 10' flat ceiling, R50 insulation in the ceiling, 2x6 walls with R19

Two garage doors, one 18' x 8', one 9' x 8' with an R value of 7


I did a quick calc and think i have 10,000 cubic feet.

I live in upstate NY, what size heater do i need?

I wanted a Mr Heater 75k BTU

I want to run the vent pipe horizontal, but it will be above my walk in entrance door and below my sofit/eave. Nowhere does it say how far below the eave it needs to be. It says 12" of pipe from the siding, which will look Terrible. Are there any other options. I see that gas fireplaces have nicer vents outside?

I posted better pics where i want the heater.

If i go horizontal the vent will be above my garage side door, you can see it in the pic with the green siding. I want it to look decent and not some crapy tube coming out of the house.
Thanks, I really appreciate the help

Thanks

 

[regguy1]

I have a 26' x 30' / 9' ceiling / R13 walls and ceiling / 7020 cu ft

45K Mr Heater heats it just fine

With 10K cu ft a 75K should be fine

 

[dave67fd]

The horiz. vent location you wan't will not meet codes.

will be above my walk in entrance door and below my sofit/eave. Nowhere does it say how far below the eave it needs to be.

The manual states:
Vent termination must be a minimum of 4' below or 4' horiz. from any sofit vent or under-eave vent.
4' from any door or window etc. or above walkways because of condensate drain.
6' from an inside corner formed by two exterior walls.

Your heater also want's to be on the rear wall, facing the garage doors. A heater should heat the coolest area.

Download the Mr. Heater operating instructions and owners manual and read it thoroughly.

Confirm with your town/state/national codes what is required.

 

[turbosl2]

The horiz. vent location you wan't will not meet codes.



The manual states:
Vent termination must be a minimum of 4' below or 4' horiz. from any sofit vent or under-eave vent.
4' from any door or window etc. or above walkways because of condensate drain.
6' from an inside corner formed by two exterior walls.

Your heater also want's to be on the rear wall, facing the garage doors. A heater should heat the coolest area.

Download the Mr. Heater operating instructions and owners manual and read it thoroughly.


Confirm with your town/state/national codes what is required.

I downloaded the manual already. That information is not in there about the sofit/eave. I am not sure if it will meet the code or not. I am not sure what my local code is. I honestly dont care, as long as i feel its safe and i am not going to melt my siding or create a problem with my eave. And it looks somewhat decent. I am not planning on moving for the next 30yrs, i just finished the house.

I cannot put it on the rear wall, there is no place to vent it without it looking rediculous, or with a 12/12 pitch roof the pipe would be VERY long, and i want to avoid any protrusions through my roof. That is always the first place for things to leak.

 

[dave67fd]

That information is not in there about the sofit/eave.

http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/172645.pdf

See page 6 under: C-HORIZONTAL VENTING-GENERAL item 3 and 5.

 

[HVAC Phil]

If you don't care about codes, put it anywhere you want. There is a reason for clearances.

 

[oilslick]

I would step up to a 90+ heater if it were my fancy place, then you can run pvc and put the damn thing wherever you want! They are triple the price but why not just buck up and do it, yours would be the first I have seen on GJ

 

[turbotodd]

Looks like it would end up similar to my setup. I don't know anything about codes but was installed by a very well known reputable HVAC dealer in this area.
Mine is out the back of the house so it is not so bad. Unit works perfect.

 

[Bojans]

My garage is similar size but with taller ceilings (~ 15') and very well insulated. I am using a 45k Sterling hanging heater with a 52" ceiling fan going. It keeps the garage at 50 with no issue and will warm it up to 60 or 65 in about an hour even when it is below 0 and has had the garage up to over 80 in very cold weather to help dry some paint. The heater works well for my needs if a bit slow to raise the temp. I am sure a 75 will be more than sufficient for you but if money is tight or as was my case, you get a killer deal on a 45k, it will also do the job.

I highly suggest installing a ceiling fan too, it keeps the air temp more consistent and my floor is always dry in the morning after the snow melts off the cars...

 

[turbosl2]

I would step up to a 90+ heater if it were my fancy place, then you can run pvc and put the damn thing wherever you want! They are triple the price but why not just buck up and do it, yours would be the first I have seen on GJ

I have actually looked for those, i cannot seem to find one with a PVC outlet that hangs like this. I was thinking a full furnace but i really dont want to go that route.

 

[turbosl2]

Looks like it would end up similar to my setup. I don't know anything about codes but was installed by a very well known reputable HVAC dealer in this area.
Mine is out the back of the house so it is not so bad. Unit works perfect.

Yes, i have a very similar situation. No issues with having it right under the eave? Do you know of any other termination caps that look better and allow you to flush mount them to the house? I have seen gas fireplaces that have units like i am refering to. They mount right on the siding. Has anyone used this for there heater?

 

[turbosl2]

http://www.northerntool.com/downloads/manuals/172645.pdf

See page 6 under: C-HORIZONTAL VENTING-GENERAL item 3 and 5.

Thats what i was reading, i missed it when it starts at #5 on page 7. There is no way to meet code in my situation, without going through the roof, which i am not going to do. It looks like i am going to have to figure something else out. I plan to be here for 20-30yrs, the code will be drasticly different by then anyway. I will make due with what i have, the main thing i am going to pursue is finding a termination cap that allows flush mounting to the siding like a gas fireplace. I am sure something is out there. The reason for the 12" of pipe is probably due to heat coming off the termination cap they recommend. The one i see being used on these looks very cheasy and i am confident that with the right engineering you can find a flush mount.
I had a gas firplace installed at my last house. A vent was put out the front wall and a square termination cap was installed flush on the siding, ALOT of heat came off this sucker, no issues with the siding. The problem is that thing was made for 8" pipe, if only i can find a smaller one.

 

[HVAC Phil]

Looks like it would end up similar to my setup. I don't know anything about codes but was installed by a very well known reputable HVAC dealer in this area.
Mine is out the back of the house so it is not so bad. Unit works perfect.

And they installed it against code. Too close to a vented eave, which could end up in the house.

 

[turbosl2]

http://www.build.com/mediabase/specifications/directventpro10.pdf

Can i use something like this that flush mounts to siding. This is double wall for 4" pipe

 

[turbotodd]

like i said i don't know what the codes are. I do live in a very rural area, maybe they dont enforce the same codes. We did have the option of going vertical though the knee wall but I live in the worst part of the snow belt (geauga county) Getting two or three feet of snow is not uncommon. The vent would have to be like six feet tall. Being from Akron you know what i'm talk n bout. I have co detectors though out the house and all read 0

This install works perfectly.

I also run a catless exhaust on my hot rod..... i am such a bad boy

 

[venom50svt]

Well i have your standard 2 stall garage probably 24x24.
Over the years I have used a wall mounted electric, kerosun heaters, salamanders lp gas and kero.... Well the money I spent!!!! what a waste

Last year I bought a Mr Heater 45k btu......holy ****, I should of done that in the first place..... I bought the side mount exhaust and it exits behind a large bush next to the garage.. My 100lb cyl hides in the bushes also...

I have it over the door on one side, it blows toward my work bench so I am nice and toasty when working.....
The most important thing is to get the "core" warm, once you do that your heater will work less..
Im happy with my purchase

 

[turbosl2]

so has anyone used a flush mount gas fireplace termination cap

 

[HVAC Phil]

so has anyone used a flush mount gas fireplace termination cap

No, it's not legal.

 

[rockchucker]

I have a 150k BTU Universal Heater with a Thermostat on it. The Thermostat is a must unless you want to be regulating it every 5 minutes. Mine heats my shop in about 2 minutes then shuts off. 10 minutes off it comes on again for 2. I also have all of my bird blocking open with an open lid. Just a 2 car Garage. I would go bigger so you don't have to have it on for as long. They really get old after listening to them over a long period of time. I think they went out of business but you can find them on Fee-Bay.

 

[regguy1]

My garage is similar size but with taller ceilings (~ 15') and very well insulated. I am using a 45k Sterling hanging heater with a 52" ceiling fan going. It keeps the garage at 50 with no issue and will warm it up to 60 or 65 in about an hour even when it is below 0 and has had the garage up to over 80 in very cold weather to help dry some paint. The heater works well for my needs if a bit slow to raise the temp. I am sure a 75 will be more than sufficient for you but if money is tight or as was my case, you get a killer deal on a 45k, it will also do the job.

I highly suggest installing a ceiling fan too, it keeps the air temp more consistent and my floor is always dry in the morning after the snow melts off the cars...

Modine Hot Dawg comes in a 60K BTU if he'd want to split the difference between the 45 and 75K units, 60K would probably do the trick for the size and insulation listed...

 

[e30bradley]

I have a 26' x 30' / 9' ceiling / R13 walls and ceiling / 7020 cu ft

45K Mr Heater heats it just fine

With 10K cu ft a 75K should be fine

What kinda bench is that? looks awesome, especially next to your SO box.

 

[turbosl2]

What kinda bench is that? looks awesome, especially next to your SO box.

Its the gladiator bamboo benches (not maple). They were $175 for 73" units. I have 3, i thought it was a good deal

 

[turbosl2]

No, it's not legal.

I still cant get this one figured out. They state in the manual you can use single wall pipe and you have to be 12" from the siding with there termination cap. I looked at there kit, it looked really crappy in my opinion. If i were to use double wall pipe the whole way, add a wall thimble and the vinyl siding standoff i would think this is way better, cleaner, and less chance of anything getting hot. Gas fireplaces REQUIRE type B, double wall, and have the same type of termination caps.

So far noone has given me any information on why this cannot be done, other than the manual says not to ( in my opinion because it is based on the termination cap and piping that they show and is junk). I will call Mr Heater and Modine and see what they say, hopefully i can find someone knowledgable and not someone who will regurgitate the manual .
I just cant have some hoky pipe extending 12" then a cap on the end of it. It doesnt fit the house and in my opinion seems like a backwoods half *** job. If you went out the roof i can see this being okay and would have a more normal appearance, but horizontal, it just doesnt seem to fit.

I personally cannot go out the roof, and need horizontal. I just have to figure out how to solve this venting issue.

Thanks guys, if i get some good info i will post it up.

 

[adam64850]

I still cant get this one figured out. They state in the manual you can use single wall pipe and you have to be 12" from the siding with there termination cap. I looked at there kit, it looked really crappy in my opinion. If i were to use double wall pipe the whole way, add a wall thimble and the vinyl siding standoff i would think this is way better, cleaner, and less chance of anything getting hot. Gas fireplaces REQUIRE type B, double wall, and have the same type of termination caps.

So far noone has given me any information on why this cannot be done, other than the manual says not to ( in my opinion because it is based on the termination cap and piping that they show and is junk). I will call Mr Heater and Modine and see what they say, hopefully i can find someone knowledgable and not someone who will regurgitate the manual .
I just cant have some hoky pipe extending 12" then a cap on the end of it. It doesnt fit the house and in my opinion seems like a backwoods half *** job. If you went out the roof i can see this being okay and would have a more normal appearance, but horizontal, it just doesnt seem to fit.

I personally cannot go out the roof, and need horizontal. I just have to figure out how to solve this venting issue.

Thanks guys, if i get some good info i will post it up.

I'm looking at the exact same set up and have the same issues with the pipe, cheap looking, if you find out anything please post it. Thanks

 

[turbosl2]

No problem. I am calling there tommarow.

 

[regguy1]

What kinda bench is that? looks awesome, especially next to your SO box.

I made the bench from plywood and 2" x 4"s. Scroll down to post No. 268 on the page below for more info and photos:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50406&page=14

The Boxes are Waterloo that I put Snap-On emblems on....all that glitters isn't gold

Thanks for the comment.....

 

[turbosl2]

I made the bench from plywood and 2" x 4"s. Scroll down to post No. 268 on the page below for more info and photos:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50406&page=14

The Boxes are Waterloo that I put Snap-On emblems on....all that glitters isn't gold

Thanks for the comment.....

Looks great. I see your floor is epoxy? This is one of my items i will be doing after winter. How long has yours been down? Who makes it, and have you had any issues?

 

[turbosl2]

No good info from Mr Heater. Just as i expected, noone knows ****, they just regurgetate the manual. He did say it would prob work, the exhaust temps are aroudn 550 degs, the tech did not want to lead me in that direction because they dont want to be held liable. He did inform me that it was certified with that hokey system to minimize costs to install. If you want to put something better, which is not theirs, they wont comment

 

[cowboyjosh]

Go with a REZNOR heater, they are much better then Modine or Mr. Heater IMO. In all the garages I've built with heaters, I've only had 1 issue with a Reznor, and that was at my own house and REZNOR ended up replacing the unit.

You'll probably have to go with a double or triple walled pipe, mine too is vented horizontally out the side of the garage. We just met code with the exhaust being exactly 4 feet from a bonus room window over the garage. The stupid AHJ I live in wouldn't allow a flue from the garage to pass thru the walls of the bonus room over the garage to vent the heater thru the roof, which still pisses me off 5 years later, but at least the heater vent out the back wall of the garage and the vent pipe is painted to match the house.

 

[regguy1]

Looks great. I see your floor is epoxy? This is one of my items i will be doing after winter. How long has yours been down? Who makes it, and have you had any issues?

Supercoat from Sam's Club, it's been down about 17 months with no problems.
It's very reasonably priced, I have about $400.00 in the 780 SF floor.(DIY)

Here's the thread about the installation:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66867


Here's a link to the product:
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=138905&variance=Cobalt+Blue

 

[dave67fd]

turbosl2,

All codes aside, as stated you can install anyway you wan't to meet your personal requirements and astetics.

The use of single wall pipe can be used as long as wall thimble and thru-wall clearances are followed. This is because the pipe can get upwards of 500+ deg. and becomes a fire hazard. The use of b pipe with wall thimble virtually eliminates any high temps near combustibles.

The Kit that Northern tool sells with the Big Maxx is made by Selkirk and gives you both the b-pipe as well as the single wall depending on how you choose to install. The pipes, thimble, reducers and the terminator are all UL listed galvanized items and are as good quality as most you will find.. You can purchase stainless steel items of different styles that look better but all meet the same general specifications. You can put any kind of terminator cap you want (again all codes aside) that meets your fancy.

Without following installation codes, anything that possibly can happen in the future you are liable for whether it be fire, melted siding, ice dams at soffits, Co poisoning etc.. I am sure a insurance company wouldn't be happy (as well as the owner) If a shop burns to the ground and the fire marshall determines that it was the result of a improperly installed and not to code heater installation. Again, codes are written for safety in mind and they DO save lives. It's your choice to install as you see fit.

Good luck with the installation. Keep us updated on your install.
Dave

 

[KCarGuy]

I used to heat my 30x25 garage with a wood burning stove. Even with that, I used all single wall pipe, just ran a long run, (i wanted to keep as much heat in the garage as possible) Ran the pipe up and then 10 feet over before I run it up through the ceiling and the roof. I made sure I had plenty of clearance between joists by running a larger pipe with Thimbles and using hardware (screws) that kept the Hot Pipe centered inside the larger pipe.
It worked Great for Years and Years (10-11)
For the last few years, I have replaced the wood burning stove with a 75K B/M Furnace. it also runs a single wall vent (much shorter run) that I wrapped with aluminum tape. It uses a wall thimble to run outside and then up about 3 feet. (about 1.5 feet away from the siding.)
The stove ran out the roof, and the furnace runs out the back wall.
I just replaced my programmable thermostat with a Outdoor Honeywell Heat only unit that goes all the way down to 35 degrees. (I will like that for the winter months)
I ran the Gas, Hung the unit and wired the thermostat without any help.
I tapped into an existing black pipe in the house (in a back room that once was a patio room) and ran 1/2" black pipe under the floor, out the foundation, 90 down, used Pro-Flex CSST underground inside plastic flex PVC, and back up outside the garage. then continued again with black pipe.
I used paste and then tape on every joint (and very large wrenches)
Black pipe cut and threaded everywhere indoors, Pro-Flex CSST everwhere outdoors.
I even had to go under a sidewalk that was not going to be removed.
Nothing better than going out to a "above Freezing" garage in the middle of winter...turning the thermostat up to 65 and working without all your tools freezing your hands!
Just check every connection carefully so you have no Gas Leaks what so ever!

 

[BC iron works]

I have a 26' x 30' / 9' ceiling / R13 walls and ceiling / 7020 cu ft

45K Mr Heater heats it just fine

With 10K cu ft a 75K should be fine

nice garage, how do you **** your maxjax lift

 

[regguy1]

nice garage, how do you **** your maxjax lift

After 15 months I'm glad I bought it, not bad to work on the roller seat and perfect height for stand up wheel / brake work. On the pragmatic side it would've cost more to modify the building to accomodate a full height lift than I paid for the MJ.

My granddaughters brake job:

The Garage Tour:

Installation thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225

 

[turbosl2]

I used to heat my 30x25 garage with a wood burning stove. Even with that, I used all single wall pipe, just ran a long run, (i wanted to keep as much heat in the garage as possible) Ran the pipe up and then 10 feet over before I run it up through the ceiling and the roof. I made sure I had plenty of clearance between joists by running a larger pipe with Thimbles and using hardware (screws) that kept the Hot Pipe centered inside the larger pipe.
It worked Great for Years and Years (10-11)
For the last few years, I have replaced the wood burning stove with a 75K B/M Furnace. it also runs a single wall vent (much shorter run) that I wrapped with aluminum tape. It uses a wall thimble to run outside and then up about 3 feet. (about 1.5 feet away from the siding.)
The stove ran out the roof, and the furnace runs out the back wall.
I just replaced my programmable thermostat with a Outdoor Honeywell Heat only unit that goes all the way down to 35 degrees. (I will like that for the winter months)
I ran the Gas, Hung the unit and wired the thermostat without any help.
I tapped into an existing black pipe in the house (in a back room that once was a patio room) and ran 1/2" black pipe under the floor, out the foundation, 90 down, used Pro-Flex CSST underground inside plastic flex PVC, and back up outside the garage. then continued again with black pipe.
I used paste and then tape on every joint (and very large wrenches)
Black pipe cut and threaded everywhere indoors, Pro-Flex CSST everwhere outdoors.
I even had to go under a sidewalk that was not going to be removed.
Nothing better than going out to a "above Freezing" garage in the middle of winter...turning the thermostat up to 65 and working without all your tools freezing your hands!
Just check every connection carefully so you have no Gas Leaks what so ever!

Do you know if Pro-Flex or Tru-Flex can be used INSIDE a wall. If i were to run it up from my basement, up the inside of the wall and come out of the wall just next to my heater? i just piped the shut off in 1/2" black iron with a ball valve. I am not in waiting state to find out what is legal for CSST. Worst case i can go up the wall with iron, but i prefer to go inside with CSST. Can someone comment on what type of CSST i can use. I heard some talk that you cannot buy it without a license, and the stuff lowes sells (if they sell it) is not approved for inwall. Everythign i see is SS with a yellow jacket. Are there any special fittings? I saw my 3/4" CSST for my range has some sort of split brass ferral at the connector?

Second,
I was looking at some of the Selkirk Piping and i saw it is okay to terminate a vent pipe above a door, if its at least 1' above, seemed odd. Check out the link, PAGE 5. Can i do this to the left above my door (actually lined up with the door molding) with a bird screen elbow.
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/WorkArea/showcontent.aspx?id=7438



Will this work for vertical, its 3" though? It says its SS but i want EVERYTHING SS, not just the cap.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/METAL-FAB-Vertical-Termination-Kit-6FHY2?Pid=search

 

[brewchief]

You can't use the sidewall caps designed for gas fireplaces because they are not for b-vent, they are for a concentric vent designed for that appliance.

The stainless steel venting can probably be used if it meets all the standards that the heater requires but in my opinion looks worse outside then a B-vent with a high wind cap.

Though the roof is my preferred vent style, I've seen very few problems with roof flashings as long as they are properly done. A gas vent is NOT a chimney and has different height requirements as to how high above the roof it needs to be, it doesn't need to be 2' higher then anything within 10 feet like a chimney(at least not here, your local codes could vary).

If you haven't bought a heater yet then look at Reznors UDAS series, they use a concentric vent that brings in combustion air and is much less obtrusive.

If you use CSST you must follow the directions for that product as to where it can be used, fittings for CSST are also brand specific, you must use the same brand fitting as pipe. In most cases you will also have the electrically ground the gas line if you use CSST, this is for protection from lightning strikes nearby for the most part.

 

[turbosl2]

You can't use the sidewall caps designed for gas fireplaces because they are not for b-vent, they are for a concentric vent designed for that appliance.

The stainless steel venting can probably be used if it meets all the standards that the heater requires but in my opinion looks worse outside then a B-vent with a high wind cap.

Though the roof is my preferred vent style, I've seen very few problems with roof flashings as long as they are properly done. A gas vent is NOT a chimney and has different height requirements as to how high above the roof it needs to be, it doesn't need to be 2' higher then anything within 10 feet like a chimney(at least not here, your local codes could vary).

If you haven't bought a heater yet then look at Reznors UDAS series, they use a concentric vent that brings in combustion air and is much less obtrusive.

If you use CSST you must follow the directions for that product as to where it can be used, fittings for CSST are also brand specific, you must use the same brand fitting as pipe. In most cases you will also have the electrically ground the gas line if you use CSST, this is for protection from lightning strikes nearby for the most part.

That is good to know about the height requirements. I did NOT want to make it that high anyway. I will see where i can find my local codes on the vent height if i go through the roof. I dont mind going up, but i wont do it without SS. Nothing agains galv but i dont think it will last as long, nor do i think it stays nice looking forever, it starts to get rust around edges and other areas after a long period of time. I am talking like 15,20,30yrs. I am young and we just built our dream house so this is it and i want something that i NEVER have to worry about, especially the flashing.

Thanks for the info on the CSST, i was not aware of the fitting issue, i will make sure whatever i buy i get all the fittings too from the same manf.

 

[KCarGuy]

I am not sure about using CSST indoors, I have heard that it is fine by some research and only specific length in other research.
So I went with black threaded pipe indoors and CSST outdoors.

Here is copies of the Pro-Flex CSST Fitting directions as well as the Installation and Practices Guidelines.

 

[wakiv]

I am looking to add heat to my garage. I have done alot of research on here but still have some questions on what size heater and the vent pipe.

I have a 24x36 garage that need some heat in:

- 24' x 24' of it has a vaulted ceiling at 9/12 pitch to 14.5' ceiling. R19 insulation in the ceiling, 2x4 walls with R13 in the walls.

- 12' x 24' has a 10' flat ceiling, R50 insulation in the ceiling, 2x6 walls with R19

Two garage doors, one 18' x 8', one 9' x 8' with an R value of 7


I did a quick calc and think i have 10,000 cubic feet.

I live in upstate NY, what size heater do i need?

I wanted a Mr Heater 75k BTU

I want to run the vent pipe horizontal, but it will be above my walk in entrance door and below my sofit/eave. Nowhere does it say how far below the eave it needs to be. It says 12" of pipe from the siding, which will look Terrible. Are there any other options. I see that gas fireplaces have nicer vents outside?

I posted better pics where i want the heater.

If i go horizontal the vent will be above my garage side door, you can see it in the pic with the green siding. I want it to look decent and not some crapy tube coming out of the house.
Thanks, I really appreciate the help

Thanks

did you get this heater hooked up yet?
if so can you p/u some pics
thanks

 

[turbosl2]

Re: Mr Heater 75k - Installed Pics

did you get this heater hooked up yet?
if so can you p/u some pics
thanks

I did, but not venting horizontal.

I went vertical and pieced together a really nice kit. It is ALL Stainless Steel INSIDE AND OUT on the piping, even the flashing on my roof is stainless.

I went with the Duravent (Pro Tech Systems). They make it in SELKIRK which is about 30mins from my house. I choose them because there products are all Stainless, most others are aluminum or galvinized. I want to ensure it will stay looking like this for ever. This company has a very unique product for variable pitced roofs. I had to modifiy some parts because the termination kit is for single wall and i used double wall up to the kit, then went single wall. With some cutting and clamping i was able to transition to the "Roof jack" with my double wall pipe. I am very happy but this stuff is not cheap.

It was $190 for the vertical termination kit.

I purchased a 3' peice of single wall vent pipe for that, $125 or so
I purchased many 3' section of double wall vent pipe for below the roof jack to my unit. $220 EACH!!!
1 Elbow was like $60 or so. I was luck that i only needed to use a 3' section of double wall. It adds up.

I have many pipes left over, no returns. So if anyone would like to purchase some let me know, i have pics.