The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Gary Indiana
Well-known member
3/4 or 1/2 socket extensions work great as vise handles. HF extension might work.
DynoDale
Well-known member
Thought of that, but the hole is 7/8". Got a piece of material, but I'm not sure how tough it is. If it bends, I'll make one from a torsion bar or sway bar.
kythri
Well-known member
Yup - that's the same vise. The whole thing developed a nasty cancer, and the original red paint started bubbling/cracking and falling off in huge chunks. I think that it wasn't treated prior to painting, and it definitely wasn't primed.
See here for what it was doing prior to me having it sandblasted:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123880
kythri
Well-known member
RedVise
Well-known member
Kythri - what did you end up doing for the nameplate prior to sandblasting ?
Apologies if you mentioned it and I missed it.
Brian L.
Apologies if you mentioned it and I missed it.
Brian L.
Jamesbbh
Well-known member
Broke my older china vise swivel mount so put it on a stump and made it a dedicated "beat stuff to death" vise.
Got a old REED MFG 204R and bolted it to the fab table. No need in cleaning something like this up because it's just going to get abused. I did disassemble it and clean/re-lube everything though.
Got a old REED MFG 204R and bolted it to the fab table. No need in cleaning something like this up because it's just going to get abused. I did disassemble it and clean/re-lube everything though.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
SNIP
Got a old REED MFG 204R and bolted it to the fab table. No need in cleaning something like this up because it's just going to get abused. I did disassemble it and clean/re-lube everything though.
You should move the reed so the stationary jaw is past the fab bench top edge. That way material can be dropped to the floor if desired.
Jamesbbh
Well-known member
Ahhh didn't even think of that, even though I don't think that need has ever arisen it would be handy if needed. Looks like I'm plug welding up some holes and redrilling when I get home.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Ahhh didn't even think of that, even though I don't think that need has ever arisen it would be handy if needed. Looks like I'm plug welding up some holes and redrilling when I get home.
Unless you are dead set on a smooth top, leave the extra holes, holes like that can come in handy at times...
JRWyckoff
New member
New to this board. Looking for some info on restoring a Wilton C1. Does Wilton make the name badge for the front? Any other parts available?
cbacres
Well-known member
Here is a Columbian vise that I need to mount to my welding table. Two man job to lift. It is stamped No. 508.
May do a cleanup and semi restore on it. Works great.
I got it with a diffrent welding table I bought from a scrap dealer. The table was a 3/8", 4' X8' plate, table was fairly heavy. His machine all had grapples to pick up scrap with. He picked up this table by clamping onto the vise, so it's been stress tested.
The second is a Wilton I dug out of a scrap pile. I think it's a import madel, not sure if it's worth getting jaws for or not. Something I need to look into.
May do a cleanup and semi restore on it. Works great.
I got it with a diffrent welding table I bought from a scrap dealer. The table was a 3/8", 4' X8' plate, table was fairly heavy. His machine all had grapples to pick up scrap with. He picked up this table by clamping onto the vise, so it's been stress tested.
The second is a Wilton I dug out of a scrap pile. I think it's a import madel, not sure if it's worth getting jaws for or not. Something I need to look into.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Beautiful Colombian!
If nothing else, for the Wilton, get some bar stock, say 1/2 X 1/2, and make some jaws...
If nothing else, for the Wilton, get some bar stock, say 1/2 X 1/2, and make some jaws...
Jeffvette
Well-known member
New to this board. Looking for some info on restoring a Wilton C1. Does Wilton make the name badge for the front? Any other parts available?
Parts are available. But never found anything on the little name plate. I would like to have one, just didn't care enough to search for it. C1 is easy to restore. Comes apart easy. I used a 90 degree pick to get the pipe jaws off.
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Jamesbbh
Well-known member
Aaaaahhhhh there you go again outlaw!! looks like I'm leaving them haha. I might try to make one a hardy hole for some anvil tools while I'm at it. Thanks again!
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New to this board. Looking for some info on restoring a Wilton C1. Does Wilton make the name badge for the front? Any other parts available?
Welcome! If you are looking for that small tin emblem Wilton sticks on the front jaw of the vise, to my knowledge, they are not available aftermarket. Other parts are.
kythri
Well-known member
Well, I planned on using my Dremel to drill out the pins/rivets, but discovered that you can carefully pry the whole plate out, and the pins remain intact in the plate.
Gently tapped them back in with a flat-nosed punch when I was done. Seems rather solidly retained, but I'll probably stick a small dab of some kind of some kind of adhesive (perhaps some RTV?) just to be more confident in the retention.
Cheap5.0
Well-known member
This seems like an appropriate place to ask with all you vise experts 
My father in law has about a dozen vises manufactured from 1900's to 1940's. He asked me a while back if i knew of any way to find out if any of them might carry some value above and beyond there useful price.
Anyone know what i might be looking at here?
My father in law has about a dozen vises manufactured from 1900's to 1940's. He asked me a while back if i knew of any way to find out if any of them might carry some value above and beyond there useful price.
Anyone know what i might be looking at here?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
This seems like an appropriate place to ask with all you vise experts
My father in law has about a dozen vises manufactured from 1900's to 1940's. He asked me a while back if i knew of any way to find out if any of them might carry some value above and beyond there useful price.
Anyone know what i might be looking at here?
Nope, because we are not psychic. Psycho maybe, but not psychic.
demographic
Well-known member
This seems like an appropriate place to ask with all you vise experts
My father in law has about a dozen vises manufactured from 1900's to 1940's. He asked me a while back if i knew of any way to find out if any of them might carry some value above and beyond there useful price.
Anyone know what i might be looking at here?
Photos and make a note of any written identification on them would help a lot.
demoman
Well-known member
Here is a vise I bought this weekend at an auction. It came from a playground manufacturing place that went out of business in the early 90's. It was in nice shape so I had to have it. It is the only big vise I have ever found locally. Iwould guess it to weigh around 200 lb and is a columbian 508. The pattern maker at columbian must have saved them millions of $ by using less cast iron for these vises. The castings on all the big columbians I have are very thin compared to other brands the same vintage. The later 508( made in the 70's i'm guessing) is a very poor vise. The newer one I have only weighs about 150#. Not good for an 8 inch vise. The jaws on it are actually bent down from abuse or just made that way. The price was right so I got it anyway several years ago.
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demoman
Well-known member
The stand is made of two pieces. It was put together years ago it looks like. I like the table part of it. No name on it anywhere.
Brad
Brad
I picked up a Canedy Otto 2 1/2" vise about a month ago. The threaded rod is broken, but it still opens a little bit. Anyone know where I might be able to get a replacement rod/spindle? It's a neat little vise, and for $3 I could not pass it up.
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demoman
Well-known member
I will show close ups of the newer columbian fot you to look at. I swear the jaws are bent downward from abuse. The vise in the photo might be a 608 I never cleaned the number off. I just guessed it would be the same as the other but I know you are right the number should be different if it was originally intended to be a swivel model.
I am off to Missouri tomorrow to get a Prentiss Bulldog # 58 heavy chipping vise that I bought at an auction. My good friend Fred found it on an auction. It has 8 1/2 jaws and weighs a tad over 300 #. My wife will be so excited when she sees her new Christmas present. I probably should wait to see what she got me
I am off to Missouri tomorrow to get a Prentiss Bulldog # 58 heavy chipping vise that I bought at an auction. My good friend Fred found it on an auction. It has 8 1/2 jaws and weighs a tad over 300 #. My wife will be so excited when she sees her new Christmas present. I probably should wait to see what she got me
Nightshift
Well-known member
LMFAO @ demoman...(snip)...My wife will be so excited when she sees her new Christmas present. I probably should wait to see what she got me
Yes, go with the cheapest jaws you can find. Its an import.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
That could be a nice little project. If it used a Std ACME thread you can get lengths of that and look at replacing the shaft entire. It will require getting the shaft out of the dynamic jaw, and seeing if it is one piece with the turn handle.
The Acme thread can be ordered on line (McMaster?) but some hardware stores carry lengths of the smaller sizes also.
Get it out and post some pics of the business end and we can make better more definitive suggestions.
I can't take any credit for this; only happened to come across the photo while browsing the web and thought it might be of some interest here. The caption seems to indicate that this person has "homemade" their own anvil and vise.
The original URL:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/128868.htm
According to the text that follows the anvil weighs 1,230 lbs. and the vice weighs 1,980 lbs., but even if the reverse is true - good grief !!!
There were no objections to the original posting so I thought it would be OK to post here.
The original URL:
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/128868.htm
According to the text that follows the anvil weighs 1,230 lbs. and the vice weighs 1,980 lbs., but even if the reverse is true - good grief !!!
There were no objections to the original posting so I thought it would be OK to post here.
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bl00
Well-known member
Wow, that's a big vise. 
It looks like it'll open about 4 feet wide, too. 
It looks like it'll open about 4 feet wide, too. Gary Indiana
Well-known member
EBCooper, if I only had a vise of that size, I would die a happy man
This is GREAT! Thanks for posting the picture.
Abington
Well-known member
Abington
Well-known member
Ran across this 4" Wilton today at the estate we're cleaning out. It is way too nice to end up in my shop and being subject to grinding and welding, so it will hit the classifieds soon.
bggrnchvy
Well-known member
I picked up an old Reed 204R from an older genleman a mile away. I saw it on CL before I left for Turkey Day and was suprised he still had it when I came back. I grabbed it for $1.20/lb and other than some cosmetic blems from solid use over the years it's in great shape. Still could use a going through.
I know sometime in the 30's-40's Reed changed the lead screw head the flattened marshmellow style and I seem to recall hearing they went to a higher strength rod at the same time. I don't however have any clear idea when this was made and can only surmise some time from 1950-1970? Does anyone have a better indicator?
I know sometime in the 30's-40's Reed changed the lead screw head the flattened marshmellow style and I seem to recall hearing they went to a higher strength rod at the same time. I don't however have any clear idea when this was made and can only surmise some time from 1950-1970? Does anyone have a better indicator?
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
All, recently, I finished a Morgan 10A wood working vise. My question is how do I keep the rods and other non painted parts from rusting without using die saver oil? The oil is fine for my machine vises but not a wood working vise. I've thought about clear coating but I felt that it would wear off and I would be fighting flash rust. Any solutions?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
bgott
Well-known member
Wax 'em.
Gary Indiana
Well-known member
Once in a while I wipe bare steel parts on my drill press with Evaporust. It works fine for me. When it dries out it behaves like water with sugar, leaving slightly sticky clear surface.