Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel

[Red Leader]

Dave go to any " auto paint " store in town and ask them for some color chip samples of " 50's greens and teals " . You have Sea foam green, caribean turquois and several others to choose from . The awesome part to this is you can get them to mix up actual auto paints for you and put them in spray cans for you .


Rick

Would that be like a Sherwin Williams? I'm not sure I know of any auto paint stores.

This is an area in which I have absolutely no expertise

 

[tinbender 66]

Don't know about Colorado, but around here we have Wesco. They supply only auto paint products. They are a chain but I think maybe just in Wa. You could search brands like PPG, DuPont etc., do a dealer search and maybe find a dealer near you. Look out, those stores have a lot of cool stuff to buy also!

 

[TireTracks]

I have had experience with the Duplicolor engine enamal. It's tough stuff. It's what I used to paint parts of my engine Hemi orange.


I like that torque N teal, seems to be uber glossy and as we know, everything about the 50's was shiny.

i'm really likeing the original Power Bronze they used in that era. Might repaint my Table saw that color eventualy.

 

[smschriefer]

I think you should stick with the current colors. If anything, find a more durable finish if that is an issue. I like those 50's green colors as well. Here are a few pics of my color choice for my own arn and yes, I have thought about changing colors, but shudder at the work involved....

 

[Red Leader]

WOW, what a cherry table on that 150 press smschriefer.

Very nice.

 

[lowfastbus]

This is paint mostly used by grafitti artists, don't think it will hold up in your application...

http://www.utrechtart.com/images/products/mtn-********-can_lg.jpg

 

[rickairmedic]

Dave heres a google link to automotive paint suppliers in Denver .

http://www.google.com/#q=automotive...pw.,cf.osb&fp=2fa0c66f255647&biw=1350&bih=655


Steve your 150 looks exactly like mine only mine is the gold color from the golden anniversary series . This picture is from the day I drug it home . I have cleaned the table up since then and should get some new pics up . There are no extra holes or divits on the table .

Rick

 

[onewaydave]

SW can mix up some good stuff for machinery grade paint and put into spray cans for you. There are many mentions of what/how to ask for what you want in previous posts. An automotive paint/body supplier would be different. Check ricks list. Denver will have beau-coup stores.

With can spray, the consensus is that you will never reach the durability of a compressor sprayed job, all else equal. You can't get the same amount of paint thickness with a rattle can. Depending on what you are painting, a brush or roller and tipping out can give you as good a finish as spray. Check out the epoxys.

The colors you post as examples will be different on every monitor here. Go with what you like. Unless you want my opinion.

Power gold that Cman used on the 2 saws I'm working on right now was junk. Looks much nicer now that I've repainted them, but the original was a very thin not-so-durable spray of color over no primer. When I got these, the paint could be stripped by rubbing ones finger over the sample lightly. It just flaked off.

Could it be that you want the sea-foam green 'cause you want a cherry '57 cheby 2DrHT like the one in the first pic?

Dave.

 

[FritzA]

That Teal / Seafoam Green is also very popular for old Fender guitars. A lot of those guys refinishing them just use the Rustoleum and Krylon paints.

I believe the original Seafoam Green that Fender used in the late 50s was based on a GM car color. Do an image search on "Seafoam Green" and "Fender Telecaster" for some nice shades.

 

[smschriefer]

Rick, mine doesn't have that machine switch on the side. I still need to install a switch on mine. Right now it is controlled by plugging in into the wall.

Dave, I thought the 100 was King Seeley and the 150 was the Emerson version after they bought the castings from KS. I know mine is not identical to the King Seeley version as there is no feed return spring adjustment knob. A funny note about the clean table. I almost dinged it up nicely when I released the headstock lock and didn't realize how heavy things were. I got it under control right as the bit hit the table...

 

[flybefree]

Steve, you ARE an enabler... I would have bought that delta milwaukee in Louisville months ago if Dave hadn't told me to pay $50! Maybe I just need to call...but I am looking for a nice Delta milwaukee that I can restore and use in my shop...all I have now is a little Hobo Fright DP. I am so ashamed.

Dave, great new avatar and thanks for sharing your findings on the rattle can work.

Shaun

 

[Red Leader]

Rick, mine doesn't have that machine switch on the side. I still need to install a switch on mine. Right now it is controlled by plugging in into the wall.

Dave, I thought the 100 was King Seeley and the 150 was the Emerson version after they bought the castings from KS. I know mine is not identical to the King Seeley version as there is no feed return spring adjustment knob. A funny note about the clean table. I almost dinged it up nicely when I released the headstock lock and didn't realize how heavy things were. I got it under control right as the bit hit the table...

Here are some pictures of both for comparison-

The '150':

And one without the adjustment knob:

And the '100' (late 50s):

Some came with the return spring adjustment knob and others did not. The 150 was introduced in 1958/1959 while Craftsman was still contracted with King Seeley, hence the 103 code on some 150 drill presses. In the 60s when Emerson took over, they continued making the 150 drill press but never made a '100' series.

I assume that in an effort create some distance from their older models (and to justify a slightly higher price - $122.50 for the '150' in 1959 vs $107.00 for the '100' in 1957), they redid the trim piece and called it the new '150', even though nothing was really new.

 

[colo crawler]

Would that be like a Sherwin Williams? I'm not sure I know of any auto paint stores.

This is an area in which I have absolutely no expertise

When I did auto-body, let me refraise that, when I was a parts runner/very amature auto body guy, our shop got all our stuff at SW on 42nd or denver car color. They are within a block of each other.

Sherwin Williams
450 West 42nd Avenue, Denver, CO
(303) 458-5311

Denver Car Color
3993 Elati Street, Denver, CO
(303) 433-9777

-Tom

 

[smschriefer]

Mine doesn't have the adjustment know and I wish it did. Mine is a bit older and is an Emerson version.

Thanks for showing the differences!

 

[Red Leader]

Mine is a bit older and is an Emerson version.

Thanks for showing the differences!

So is the Craftsman cabinet saw I picked up. It is from the 1960s, not the 1950s. But I'm not holding it against it

And, your welcome. To be honest, I'm learning as I go!

 

[98TJ]

Man, I love looking at the old tool eye candy in this thread.

 

[FritzA]

As you requested, here's a pic of the grinder I picked up. I can't wait to see it next to my bronze 109 lathe and 150 bench DP.

I would like to find an old craftsman pedestal stand for it....anyone?

 

[rickairmedic]

Rick, mine doesn't have that machine switch on the side. I still need to install a switch on mine. Right now it is controlled by plugging in into the wall.

Dave, I thought the 100 was King Seeley and the 150 was the Emerson version after they bought the castings from KS. I know mine is not identical to the King Seeley version as there is no feed return spring adjustment knob. A funny note about the clean table. I almost dinged it up nicely when I released the headstock lock and didn't realize how heavy things were. I got it under control right as the bit hit the table...

Steve the switch on mine is an aftermarket item the original owner installed at some point , Mine is a King Seeley and does have the adjustment knob from what I have gathered on mine it was offered in 1958-59 as part of the golden anniversary issue .

Steve, you ARE an enabler... I would have bought that delta milwaukee in Louisville months ago if Dave hadn't told me to pay $50! Maybe I just need to call...but I am looking for a nice Delta milwaukee that I can restore and use in my shop...all I have now is a little Hobo Fright DP. I am so ashamed.

Dave, great new avatar and thanks for sharing your findings on the rattle can work.

Shaun

Shaun I mentioned earlier in the thread I know Melvin ( the guy who has the Delta/Milwaukee Drill Press . )

Here are some pictures of both for comparison-

The '150':

And one without the adjustment knob:

And the '100' (late 50s):

Some came with the return spring adjustment knob and others did not. The 150 was introduced in 1958/1959 while Craftsman was still contracted with King Seeley, hence the 103 code on some 150 drill presses. In the 60s when Emerson took over, they continued making the 150 drill press but never made a '100' series.

I assume that in an effort create some distance from their older models (and to justify a slightly higher price - $122.50 for the '150' in 1959 vs $107.00 for the '100' in 1957), they redid the trim piece and called it the new '150', even though nothing was really new.

I also got 2 of those killer beehive lights and a nice Bench grinder when I picked up my 150 .


Rick

 

[Bob Heine]

I assume that in an effort create some distance from their older models (and to justify a slightly higher price - $122.50 for the '150' in 1959 vs $107.00 for the '100' in 1957), they redid the trim piece and called it the new '150', even though nothing was really new.

My father had a sparse tool collection. A Craftsman 1/4" drill that he purchased in the early 1950s was the only power tool he owned. I still have it but the attachment tools (circular saw, sander and jig saw) were another brand and so poorly made that I threw them out.

Just to put the prices of these tools in perspective, That $122.50 back in 1959 is the equivalent of $905.83 today. After a couple of years in entry level jobs, I started working at IBM in 1964. My starting salary was $4,200 a year. After taxes I was bringing home $65 a week. That drill press might as well have been made of gold. No way could I afford to spend almost two week's income on a machine that drills holes. My first sockets were mis-matched S-K, PowerKraft and Craftsman because I only bought the size needed for a repair job. Same with combination wrenches.

 

[shopnut]

FINALLY! Your thread finally passed mine on view count

I was really getting nervous watching that 1950s C'man Garage grill coming up in my rearview mirror, with my pedal to the Asylum metal, knowing there was nothing I could do about it. Now I can sit back, relax, and watch your taillights just disappear into the distance in front of me! The pressure is off

J/K! - Actually, I just wanted to document the time it happened so when you hit a million views next year, outnumbering the Asylum thread 3:1, I have proof when I say - "I remember when..."

Sorry for the interruption folks - back to the regularly scheduled program. Keep up the good work RL!

 

[Red Leader]

FINALLY! Your thread finally passed mine on view count

I was really getting nervous watching that 1950s C'man Garage grill coming up in my rearview mirror, with my pedal to the Asylum metal, knowing there was nothing I could do about it. Now I can sit back, relax, and watch your taillights just disappear into the distance in front of me! The pressure is off

J/K! - Actually, I just wanted to document the time it happened so when you hit a million views next year, outnumbering the Asylum thread 3:1, I have proof when I say - "I remember when..."

Sorry for the interruption folks - back to the regularly scheduled program. Keep up the good work RL!

Hmm, I think I'd probably need to mess up ankle or something too, to level out the playing field! J/K

Honestly I'm such a slacker since I really haven't done much at all to the garage in the past month or two (last couple of nights it has hovered right around -3 to -5 degrees F) so I sure as heck haven't even wanted to. But since we've all been talking about these old tools, it skews the posts/views to make it look like so much more is happening than reality would indicate

Views aside, I think the real test comes down to this:

Me:

You:

 

[smschriefer]

Did I miss pics of the bandsaw? I don't want to go back and review 72 pages, but I don't recall seeing it.

 

[Red Leader]

Did I miss pics of the bandsaw? I don't want to go back and review 72 pages, but I don't recall seeing it.

Thanks for asking about the band saw. I haven't really showcased it since it is not quite it's 'time', but here is what it looks like right now:

I have been working on getting it operable, which includes scraping off the old bandsaw tires, sanding/wire wheeling the glue/junk of and installing new ones, installing electrical switch and wiring, a few misc small bandsaw parts, a new blade and it should be fully operational. I have all the parts...its just been too dang cold out there to do anything

Here is what the tire looks like. This picture is deceptive. It is very hard to get off. I have resorted to using a chisel.

Here is the Sears Roebuck & Co model tag:

And the Craftsman logo plate that goes on the top door:

This bandsaw was made by Parks Woodworking Machinery for Craftsman and was introduced in 1949. They made a 1 speed woodworking model (mine) and a 2 speed wood/metal model (not mine). Turns out that this model was carried for at least 20 years (amazing). For a brief history on Parks, see this link:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Parks History.ashx

They were around for more than 100 years an employed about 20-30 people.

I love it...and I haven't even used it yet. The goal is to get it 100% functional, then do a cosmetic restore when I won't bump a thousand things into it.

 

[Wingnut65]

... But since we've all been talking about these old tools, it skews the posts/views to make it look like so much more is happening than reality would indicate...

Its not just been talking about old tools... These are an investment into the pure existence of this (and now many other) garage makeovers. Without all these vintage machines, this place would just be, well, another really cool place to hang out with cool shelves and probably a car parked in the middle.

Congrats on pushing past shopnut during rehab. Keep posting tools and there is no looking back.

And for cleaning those wheels, have you tried a little heat? Either a hair dryer or a heat gun could loosen the rubber enough to make it bearable. That band saw is just waiting to start cutting wood again. Thick wood, that is.

 

[Red Leader]

My father had a sparse tool collection. A Craftsman 1/4" drill that he purchased in the early 1950s was the only power tool he owned. I still have it but the attachment tools (circular saw, sander and jig saw) were another brand and so poorly made that I threw them out.

Just to put the prices of these tools in perspective, That $122.50 back in 1959 is the equivalent of $905.83 today. After a couple of years in entry level jobs, I started working at IBM in 1964. My starting salary was $4,200 a year. After taxes I was bringing home $65 a week. That drill press might as well have been made of gold. No way could I afford to spend almost two week's income on a machine that drills holes. My first sockets were mis-matched S-K, PowerKraft and Craftsman because I only bought the size needed for a repair job. Same with combination wrenches.

Yep, I hear you. I don't think I could even begin to afford these tools at their asking price if I lived in the 1950s. I have a hard enough time paying over $100 for a tool, let alone $7000 for a 20" planer! (cost of Cman/Parks 20" in 1950s: $1000)

We are in a golden age of vintage power tools, but unfortunately not a renaissance. It is definitely a buyers market. More and more people are moving away from the 'skilled DIY' attitude and buying cheap, quick fixes instead of making something. Therefore, in most people's eyes, these tools keep losing and losing their value. It makes picking them up all the better for those like us that appreciate them, but in the long run I think it is a losing battle. They sure aren't making more vintage tools and so every one that goes unappreciated into a dump is one less that we'll never get back.

To me, it is more than just the tool - it is what they represent...a time when people actually got stuff done themselves and took on some responsibility. I know of very few people today that would choose to spend $100 in hardwood materials to make a bookshelf over spending $150 to buy a Chinese pressboard one at the store. There has been a huge mentality shift. Its not new, but it has slowly changed over the years.

For me, these tools represent a different time, and put the ball back in our court. I refuse to succumb to this modern-day attitude shift. These old tools help make that possible. Along the way, I have learned so many electrical and mechanical skills that even if I didn't do a darn think with them once operational, it would still have been worth every bit of the time, effort and cost.

 

[Red Leader]

As you requested, here's a pic of the grinder I picked up. I can't wait to see it next to my bronze 109 lathe and 150 bench DP.

I would like to find an old craftsman pedestal stand for it....anyone?

Killer grinder! I'm kinda wishing I picked it up now

Although as long as it goes to a good home...that's what this is all about

Nice score!

-Dave

EDIT: pedestals can be found, but they are expensive, around the price of the grinder. If you find one for cheaper, probably would be worth picking up.

 

[smschriefer]

That band saw is huge! I looked at all the ones listed in Vintage Machinery and the color choices aren't the best. I think a two tone 50's green and white (or even beige) would look cool on yours. Maybe seafoam on the the bottom and then the top could be white, using the curve as your color transition.

 

[Red Leader]

onewaydave and smshriefer:

I think Seafoam nails it. I didn't even think of that name until it was mentioned but then did the search and any number of shades of the Seafoam green are what I think I'm going for.

I see that Rustoleum actually does make a Seafoam green, but again - back to the same issue of terrible nozzle and durability issues.

Eventually I'd love to get a compressor/paint gun setup but its not going to happen for a while.

If there is a seafoam type color in a can, I'd like to try that in the meantime.

I might call Sherwin Williams just to see what they can do.

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Also, slight update - I got both ugly nasty tires off the bandsaw and wire-wheeled/sanded the rims. They are looking pretty good. I might even try to get them on later today.

Next up with the bandsaw is the electrical. I'm thinking about putting it just under the level of the table, on the 'neck' of the saw facing the user. The only challenge is that this is a hinged part that swings out, so I'd have to be careful with attaching any cables and make sure they have enough room to stretch. The cleanest install would be to drill a 1/2 hole in the sheet metal to bring the cable out from the motor through to the switch, but I dunno if drilling that much metal out of the body of the saw is considered sacrilege. I can always come up through some cutouts in the base of the saw to the outside, but it is going to look a lot more messy.

Thoughts?

 

[smschriefer]

Are the doors on the base sheetmetal, or are they cast? I think a flush mounted art deco machine switch would look cool.

 

[Grandad]

The cleanest install would be to drill a 1/2 hole in the sheet metal to bring the cable out from the motor through to the switch, but I dunno if drilling that much metal out of the body of the saw is considered sacrilege.

The rule of thumb when restoring anything that requires modification from the original is never to do something that can't be reversed later.

If 50 yrs from now, someone can fill the hole you have in mind and take it back to 100% original, then go for it.

My opinion only of course.

Cheers
Jim

 

[Red Leader]

Man, I love looking at the old tool eye candy in this thread.

98TJ, feel free to throw up your beautifully restored power bronze Craftsman bench saw so that others can see both the elegance of Craftsman and the evidence of your skills:thumbsup:

 

[Red Leader]

Okay guys, maybe you can help me out with this one.

I appreciate you bringing up the bandsaw, smschriefer. It reminded me of something important.

I'd like to get the electrical going on the band saw. I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but my reason for getting the band saw up and running is twofold. First, I'd like to get it up and running so that I'm not a slacker. Second, I visit a young man in a facility (with my work/mentoring program) and we always have a good chat about guitars/tools/guitar building. I made him a promise that if he gets out and stays successful, I'll build him a guitar. In order to do that, I'd need the band saw up and running, so I told him that I'd get it operational. I can't continue to face him and tell him that its not, right?

So, here are my electrical options. If you'd be so kind, please tell me which switch location you prefer and why. A lot of you guys have a TON more experience than I do running machinery and may have a valuable opinion on this. The exterior is sheet metal and I do not mind drilling holes if it is necessary. As it is now, the switch box has 2 punch-outs, one on the top and one on the bottom, none on the back or sides. I'll have to think of my wiring options based on the location of the switch. Here is what I came up with.

Option 1: Front

Option 2: Underneath

Option 3: Side

Thoughts? Opinions? If you think of a different configuration that you like better and is not shown above, please let me know! Let me hear your vote, guys!

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

On the left, at the uprise in the casting. (last photos) IMHO, this is the best place to put it. Anything that get's you out of the way of the blade is good. The position shown first has your hands up around the blade, never a good thing. The next position could cause you to bend down and as dumb as it sounds, hit your head on the blade if exposed enough. Again, getting too close to be as safe as you could. Now, my W/T saw is down in that position from the factory and I really don't like it, but want to keep it in place. Plus, on mine, the last location you show is a removable plate on mine.

So, if it was me, I would place it in the last position, or the one I like the best... place it a little higher up and on the back side of the saw facing the wall. I know this is an odd place, but it is not in the way there, and you have plenty of room between the wall. This location is not only safe, but there is very little chance it would get switched on my accident. Another advantage is that once the saw is painted, it will look very clean without the bulky switch jutting out on the saw. The cord, running out of the bottom of the box will look cleaner as well. With the box on the back, you can run the cord down to the base on the outside of the saw without seeing it.

PS, is that a meat saw? It seems well closed up for a band saw, and I do see a mitre slot on the table. Do you know the brand on it?

 

[Red Leader]

PS, is that a meat saw? It seems well closed up for a band saw, and I do see a mitre slot on the table. Do you know the brand on it?

Nope, not a meat saw.

Parks/Craftsman '100' 18" bandsaw, introduced in the 1949 Craftsman power tool catalog and spanning 20+ years as a Sear-offered product:

Thanks for your thoughts on the switch location. I thought about putting it in the back...


but...


...it has that cool little light that will light up when it is turned on

 

[rickairmedic]

Dave if you are worried about being able to see the light when its on then I would mount it below the table on the front . This is where the motor and such are anyways right ? This should also keep you from trying to run cables near the moving blade whiiiiich if one happened to come loose " cable or blade " could make for a bad day in the shop.


Rick

 

[Wingnut65]

Let me be the First to Second the Third option! Or, ...what Firefyter-Emt said.

Just curious, where was the switch located when it was sold? Seems like a lot of work to go and add a new really cool looking switch if the original can be refurb'ed. Naaah. Never mind. #3

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

I know the light is cool and all, but don't ya think it might be easy to tell if the saw is on? ;-) I mean, the whole motor running, blade a spinning thing kinda is a dead give away....

Huh, a Parks branded one... I am shocked I did not pick up on that style. They did a very nice job at boxing it in. It should look great when it's all done. I still say the switch should hide on the back side though, even though it is cool, when the saw is all painted, the switch and power cord is really going to distract from the style of the saw.

 

[BUGTHUG]

I would want an EMERENGCY(sp) switch up close, just in case? put off/on in the picture #2 would work fine, out of the way, but close enough.

 

[slickgt1]

Option one is good if you plan on hitting the switch with your head or something. Option 2, underneath looks like you would have to go hunting for it blind, or would need to bend over to hit it. Not a problem for long term as you will just know where it is.

I like the one on the side the best. Out of the way, but close enough and in sight. So if you get a noob working with you, they will spot that thing right away.

 

[Red Leader]

Guys,

Thanks for all the thoughts on the switch mount location. I do like the side location too.

I hear the reasoning for the position on the back, but I like the look of the switch enough to see it from the side Also, I do like the idea that the user blocks the switch from other people when in use.

I'm thinking I'll probably drill a 1/2" hole in the sheet metal at that location, with a corresponding hole in the back of the switch housing and run the motor lead up through there. Then, I can have it exit out the bottom of the switch housing and have it look really clean.

That is the thought at least.

That said, the garage is a mess...maybe I should clean it tonight. I need to.

Time to take a picture of the fun-ness

Be back later!