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Has anyone had a MaxJax lift fail on them? (and lived to post about it)

turbotuner20v

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I've been searching for 'failure' stories of the MaxJax and can't seem to find anything. Does anyone know of any concrete floor bolt failures or hydraulic system failures. Any carnage pics?

I'm glad that all the reviews seem to be positive, just wanted to weigh the 'bad' as well if it exists.

(lifting a 2009 Corvette coupe in an 8' tall garage)
 
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porcupine73

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I haven't looked real hard but I haven't really seen any. I was thinking of getting a set eventually, but I think I would also those tall adjustable jackstands. I can't really see myself getting under the vehicle with just the MaxJax there - do not like any single point of failure when under a vehicle.
 

PowerDubs

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Both I and my father-in-law own VW Phaetons that weigh 5300+ pounds and see regular use on my maxjax as well as many other vehicles.

Hasn't shown a single sign of not liking the weight.
 

cw_racefan

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As long as you lower the vehicle to the mechanical stops, a hydraulic failure is taken out of the equation. That being said, I do have a pair of the tall "jack stands" that I use with mine. Helps stabilize things and makes me much more comfortable under the vehicle. Figure a failure would still be bad, but at least I'd have a better chance of escape.
 

Jvvmusme

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Before buying mine I searched for a failure story of any kind and found none. Of course I always use the mechanical stops and the concrete pads were done with concience. What else could fail ?
 
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turbotuner20v

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Mine's coming Monday or Tuesday. Send help if I haven't posted by Thursday!

haha, nice!

Where did you order from and what was the price?

It seems like GSE is the best I can find at $1,999 + $135 delivery to my door.
 
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turbotuner20v

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As long as you lower the vehicle to the mechanical stops, a hydraulic failure is taken out of the equation. That being said, I do have a pair of the tall "jack stands" that I use with mine. Helps stabilize things and makes me much more comfortable under the vehicle. Figure a failure would still be bad, but at least I'd have a better chance of escape.

Before buying mine I searched for a failure story of any kind and found none. Of course I always use the mechanical stops and the concrete pads were done with concience. What else could fail ?

That's good that there don't seem to be any horror stories. I'd just be concerned about the hydraulics failing while lifting before the bar could be placed. That wouldn't cause any injury to me, but could hurt the car.

I'm going to do some final measurements this weekend and purchase one on Monday it looks like :)
 

graffix000

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haha, nice!

Where did you order from and what was the price?

It seems like GSE is the best I can find at $1,999 + $135 delivery to my door.

Costco has it for $1,999 + free delivery Will most likely have a lift gate fee or need to pick it up from a distribution yard.
 

olytdi

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I called around and got it for $1930 with pickup at the terminal (really lucky that it's only 4 miles away!) by asking what the best price was below Costco's that they could produce. Costco's sale ends on Sunday, I think so price-matching is fleeting -- get calling!
 
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turbotuner20v

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Is there any limit to how close this thing can be placed next to a wall?


I want to install one baseplate so it's almost butted up right against the wall.
 

abstamaria

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Turbotuner, you should be able to **** the base plate against the wall. The only issue will be impeded access to the mounting bolts and the quick release hydraulic fitting.
 
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turbotuner20v

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Turbotuner, you should be able to **** the base plate against the wall. The only issue will be impeded access to the mounting bolts and the quick release hydraulic fitting.

I actually just measured and found I wouldn't be able to pull in and get the car that far left anyways, so I'm sitting at about 13" away from the wall. Is there a ballpark measurement for how far the hose pokes out when attached to the fitting?

Just out of curiosity does anyone have a picture of them sitting under a car on the maxjax? I'm about 51" tall sitting on a 16" stool, so I'm just trying to work out my sitting arrangement.

actually, just found one:


looks like a pretty tall stool and someone who's within 3" of my height maybe.
 
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abstamaria

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The hose won't stick out, as the fitting is some ways inboard. It is not an issue.

If you go the main "Maxjax installs" thread, you will find many pictures of fo
Ks sitting, kneeling beneath the lift. You may have to get a lower stool, and there's a separate thread on that too!

Good luck.
 

regguy1

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I actually just measured and found I wouldn't be able to pull in and get the car that far left anyways, so I'm sitting at about 13" away from the wall. Is there a ballpark measurement for how far the hose pokes out when attached to the fitting?

Just out of curiosity does anyone have a picture of them sitting under a car on the maxjax? I'm about 51" tall sitting on a 16" stool, so I'm just trying to work out my sitting arrangement.

actually, just found one:


looks like a pretty tall stool and someone who's within 3" of my height maybe.


Go to this thread and scroll down to post No. 20 on page 1 and 21 on page 2 you'll see photos of MaxJax in use on a roller seat:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225
 

tdkkart

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I wonder how many people actually disassemble and move their MaxJax every time they use it?? Considering that in most cases the one side will be against a wall and out of the way anyway, and if you take the arms off the post it's actually a pretty small footprint to work around. Unless I REALLY had to, I don't think I'd go to the trouble of unbolting and moving the post.

Now that I've gotten more familiar with the amount of space that I DON'T have in my 30x40 shop, I'm wavering on my plans of getting a lift at all, and if I do it'll probably be a 2-post rather than the previously planned 4 post. A drive-on 4 post simply takes up too much floor space, while one post of a 2 post will basically be against the wall, and the other is relatively small.
That being the case, and since I have nearly 12' of ceiling height, I'd hate to sacrifice the lift height of a standard lift.

The only thing I have to deal with is my incredible fear of the car falling off a 2 post. Always seems like a precarious balancing act to me.
 
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turbotuner20v

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Go to this thread and scroll down to post No. 20 on page 1 and 21 on page 2 you'll see photos of MaxJax in use on a roller seat:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71225

That was perfect, thanks!

I may need this 'seat' to deal with the height. My craftsman stool is about 16" and could work in some spots, but not all.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00951148000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

I have a very short garage... it's 8' (96"). Then my garage door motor hangs down ~9.5".

So I have 86.5" of space to lift, but to get to the max lift w/o spacers (45") my car needs to be 41.5" tall. It's a 2009 Corvette, so it's pretty low, but I still think the body is still around 45" tall.

If I remove the door opener and use a liftmaster 3800, I could lift to the height pictured in that thread tho (45" + 3" spacers). Installing the spacers would be a bit of a process though since I'm sure even the regular lift pads will be tight under my lowered car.

One important question I just thought of though... how high do you need to lift to allow the use of the 'top' safety pin?
 

regguy1

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The top safety pin goes in at max lift height, you can see those measurements on MaxJax USA site. My ceiling is 8' 10" (photos in thread)

Measure from lift point of your car to top of roof then you can figure if you'll have enough clearance. I lift my Nissan Frontier Pickup to full height on the MJ (it's fairly tall truck) if I didn't have 8' 10'' I couldn't do it. You could add another set of holes at a slightly lower point. Some people here have done it I believe (?)
 
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turbotuner20v

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Are these cracks running under where I have my post planned anything to worry about?

imag0653s.jpg



I have a few random cracks like these here and there around the garage. My engineer buddy said that if they're random directions it's probably fine. Just want to confirm since it's right under the pad on this side.
 

Chetter

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Nov 30, 2008
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Northern Ohio
Like most, I did a lot searching and research about the MaxJax before I pulled the trigger and bought one through Northern Tools and since they offered the 100.00 gift card, I got it from them. Mine came this past Friday and I loaded into the back of Ford Ranger with a cap on to boot. A coworker and I managed to get this thing in the back using the side shift on the forks of our towmotors which allowed us to put it in and close the tailgate. I am really pleased with their customer service. Mine came with the wrong anchor kit and when I sent the email this morning, I have the correct set coming tomorrow. It's the only thing left to do, drill and set my anchors.
 

NewShockerGuy

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Do we know actually how much weight the steel bars can hold. I showed my wife and she said so wait, you lower the car and the weight is on the two small metal bars... I said yes. She said wow, I wouldn't go under that ever knowing that...lol

Do we know what the steel safety bars are made of as far as steel and what their load is? I am kinda iffy thinking about how everything then "rests" on the bars?

-Nigel
 

UPSHIFT

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Do we know actually how much weight the steel bars can hold. I showed my wife and she said so wait, you lower the car and the weight is on the two small metal bars... I said yes. She said wow, I wouldn't go under that ever knowing that...lol

Do we know what the steel safety bars are made of as far as steel and what their load is? I am kinda iffy thinking about how everything then "rests" on the bars?

-Nigel

Nigel,

Please rest assure this lift is designed with a 4-1 safety factor and more in critical areas.. The 16MM pins are made of high quality Carbon Steel and the sheer load capacity is well over 18000lbs. Think of your average 4 Post Chain Lift in the local Muffler shop with 12000 lbs hanging from a 5/16 dowel pin.. :shocking: Hope this helps.. :beer:

Thanks as Always,
Gabe
Dannmar
 

DonnyT

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Do we know actually how much weight the steel bars can hold. I showed my wife and she said so wait, you lower the car and the weight is on the two small metal bars... I said yes. She said wow, I wouldn't go under that ever knowing that...lol

Do we know what the steel safety bars are made of as far as steel and what their load is? I am kinda iffy thinking about how everything then "rests" on the bars?

-Nigel

Nigel, Nigel, Nigel.... Are you forgetting about the cylinders ??? They would have to fail as well. If the bars snap in half (They won't), the cylinders will hold up the car. If BOTH the bars and the cylinders fail, then you have a problem. OMG install the lift already!!! LOL :lol_hitti
 

dmeadow

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Nigel, Nigel, Nigel.... Are you forgetting about the cylinders ??? They would have to fail as well. If the bars snap in half (They won't), the cylinders will hold up the car. If BOTH the bars and the cylinders fail, then you have a problem. OMG install the lift already!!! LOL :lol_hitti

And quit necro-bumping every MaxJax thread!:lol_hitti
 

NewShockerGuy

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And quit necro-bumping every MaxJax thread!:lol_hitti

lol, I know, I know.. I'm just searching everything to make sure I don't f up , that's all... I think i I was just as bad the first time I did an epoxy floor.

Thanks for all the claification. I look at it like if I have questions someone else hopefully does as well. So all a learning experience ;-p

I'll try and not bring up old threads from the dead honestly..hahah I just don't want to start new threads considering how much info we have on this. It's the most comprehensive out there, EVERY other forum I see tips or feedback on maxjax it in some shape or way always refers back to GJ!

-Nigel
 

mikeyr

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Santa Barbara, CA
I find it interesting that people are worried about the hydraulics giving up, worried about the safety bars failing, the strength of the lifting arms, etc.

My one and only concern was those tiny little bolts that hold the lift upright, all I can think of is how much leverage those arms must produce with the weight of the car and how much they are trying to pull the liftting post over and those little tiny bolts are all that is stopping it.

I lifted my daughters BMW a lot (actually A LOT) and my Dino with no issues, bolts were tight but when I lifted my half ton GMC Sierra, all the bolts were loose and hand tight after I lowered the truck. That does not happen when I lift the BMW (did I mention I lift that thing often?) and I have not lifted the truck since but what I assume happened is the weight of the truck caused all the anchors to fully set and now its solid. I got those short tripod jack stands and now wont get under without them.

The anchors are the only thing I worried about when I got this, I assumed everything else was plenty strong.
 

demoderbydave

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Spencer Mass
I have had my Maxjax for over 2 years and LOVE it!
I lift all my cars from a Miata, my Camaro, my winter Nissan Altima and My plow truck (no plow attached) a 1997 K1500 and have had numerous SUV's ect on it.

I occasionally check the bolts/anchors and other than that... I never give it a second thought other than keep an eye for leaks/oil level.

I don't unbolt/move it much (one side never) and obviously the MOST important part of the whole unit is the mounting/floor. If that was done properly get it going and use it! :beer:
 
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olytdi

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Yeah that was interesting. I changed out the fittings and hoses when I got the lift primarily to rig the hoses up and over to the pump which I wall mounted. I have pretty high confidence in the fittings and in two years, haven't had even a wet area or leak.

My process is:

-check hydraulic pump oil level.

-position lift at appropriate lift points.

-lift untill tires almost off the ground -- check lift points, confirm that swinging arm locking gears (or dogs) are engaged.

-lift car a foot or so off the ground. Shake fore/aft to check stability and balance.

-lift to full height.

-engage safety bars.

-lower lift onto safety bars.

-place tripod safety jacks under fore and aft securely (I use the heavy duty GS versions).

-vehicle should be rock solid with absolutely no movement and is now held aloft at 6 points. Now safe to work.

I'm pretty sure that even if there was some sort of catastrophic failure of one side, the remaining 4 points would hold the vehicle aloft or at least provide a way out.

I used the stock anchors in 4.5 inches of concrete and have had no movement, need for re-torquing, floor cracks, or other indication of weakness. Seems rock solid. Love this lift!
 

Denwood

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Pressure in the system likely spikes right at max lift, as one side hits the physical stop. This is also the worst possible time for a failure. It looks like a velocity fuse ( http://m.hydraulicspneumatics.com/other-technologies/hydraulic-fuses-add-safety-and-control-circuits ) would resolve this issue. I read a reference to maxjax requiring similar for CE certification in Europe.

Has anyone used these on their lift? I will be contacting Danmar on this topic to find out what flow/fail rate fuse would be required. In my opinion, these should be standard, if not already integrated.

Edit: apparently Danmar does integrate a velocity fuse into the cylinder. From the Maxjax USA website: "Hydraulic cylinders feature integrated velocity-fuse safety valves."

So the failure referenced above either was on an older hoist, or the fuse failed.
 
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Denwood

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A few notes to update after speaking with the tech folks at Danmar/Maxjax. There is a velocity fuse in each cylinder, that should stop an uncontrolled descent where a hose has failed.

If you have a less catastrophic leak during a lift or drop (with safety bars removed!), the flow rate could fall under the fuse setting, with a vehicle dropping off the hoist, as experienced by Mitch.

The only solution that I can think of is adding a velocity fuse at the base of each cylinder, rated just above the typical fluid flow measured as a vehicle is being lowered. Thoughts?


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4411858&postcount=62
I had just gotten my '68 triumph tr250 to maximum height with my maxjax two-post list in my garage when I heard a "pop" and all of a sudden the arms on one side started to come down quickly. It all happened before I had a chance to slide in the safety pipes that hold the arms from coming down. The car ended up balanced on the front and rear right side tires. Turned out the hydraulic fitting at the base of the post had failed and all the fluid leaked out. Minor body damage plus a busted reach shock after I dropped the car back on the other two wheels were all that happened,mbut this came just at the very end of a winter-long interior renovation project and needless to say was incredibly frightening and depressing. I replaced the fitting with higher quality hardware. The only lesson to learn is stand back, check fittings, use the safeties as soon as possible and always be prepared!
 

CleanSC

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A little bump here to educate a little on the weaknesses and dangers of the MaxJax for those looking.

Full disclosure: I've had mine about 4 years or so, and installed outside. So yes, I'm using it against the manufacturer's recommendations.

So this is not a knock on the quality of the unit. It's more a field abuse test to reveal the weaknesses in an accelerated fashion.

Failures I've had:

1. Failed rotary switch and bearing inside motor. My fault, water had gotten inside. Locally rebuilt for $125.

2. Failed hydraulic hose that burst during a lift sending fluid EVERYWHERE. Replaced with local USA made longer 15' goodyear hoses. Cost $133. See note below, this one was almost a very catastrophic event.

3. Right lift cylinder leakage. Discovered this week. This one might be the last nail in the coffin for this lift and me. A call to Danmar reveals this cylinder costs $400 to replace if it can't be rebuilt locally due to scoring.

4. Rust on the yellow lifting arms. Fixed this myself with some scrapage and Ospho.

Notes on Failure #2. This is the same failure as noted in the other thread posted a few posts up. I was lifting a 2007 Toyota RAV4 and the left hose burst at 3/4" of the way to the top. Left side came down while the right side kept going up. This created a LARGE leveling discrepancy resulting the car nearly coming off the lift into the left column.

I reacted as fast as I could and released the lift button. This stopped the right side going up, but the left was still coming down uncontrollably. Now the leveling is MUCH worse with the car at a 30 degree angle from level and steepening.

I then realized the only way to maybe avert disaster is to hit the release bar and lower the other side asap. As I did this, they both came down together altho I was dangerously close of having the titled over roof of the car hitting the column. But I had no choice. I just let it go.

The roof luckily cleared, and as the car came down, one side of the tires landed first, an then the other. As the car adjusted itself coming down at an angle, it sheared and blew off the rubber frame pads from the lifting arms.

This failure I feel is not attributed to being outside. Hydraulic hoses are used on heavy equipment that reside outdoors. However, these (chinese?) hoses are likely not rated for this, and they do fail. Lesson #1 here is replace those hoses after 5 years with locally sourced US made hoses. Get longer ones while you're at it, it's a mod most of us have to do anyway.

Lesson #2 here is that the MaxJax does not have an automatic locking system as you raise the load. If a hose blows while lifting, the load is coming down, no matter what, and sideways.

If a hose blows between putting in one lock pin and before the other, it's all over. One side is going down and the other will not no matter what. The load is lost at this point. In most cases, it's a roll over of the vehicle and likely a total loss depending on what you got.

Other lifts have automatic locks that engage as you go up so if there is a problem, the lift falls an inch or so and locks.

The MaxJax does NOT have this safety feature.

I feel I will sell my MaxJax and get a mid rise scissor as these feature the automatic safety locks and even if there is a failure, the car is coming down level.

The independent column design is just asking for it. Each column is it for itself, and this leads to unlevel lifting (I've NEVER gotten mine to lift level BTW, since day 1) and very dangerous failure modes when something does go wrong. And they do, these are machines that fail just like any other. A good back up plan is needed.

Replacing your hoses is a good start, and maybe even every 5 years. $100 or so in hoses is cheap insurance.

Another good idea is to stop your lift mid way, and insert the lock pins in the mid way holes and then continue your lift. This way if there is a failure, the load only comes down half way, possibly avoiding the roll over. You're essentially mimicking the automatic locks of other lift designs. It's only one safety stop versus the multiples of other lifts with a proper system, but it's better than nothing.

Again I'm not knocking the design or quality of the MJ. Altho I do feel these hoses could be better. A quality hose is critical with this style of lift.

They say not to use them outside. I agree. Don't do it. I had to as it was my only choice and accepted the consequences.

I'm moving to a new garage with an indoor repair bay and am debating whether to bring the MJ with me. I don't think I will.

I'm not a professional mechanic. I just play on the weekends.

These are just thoughts for you guys to ponder while making your decisions. I still think it's a good option for some, provided you're ok with the certain lack of safety features as compared to other options on the market.

I will say they do always answer the phone with humans and that's always nice.
 

Hop2it

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Oct 5, 2013
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Fairport ny
My Maxjax will not go up at all I had a delay in
installing it so it is out of warranty,I filled it with atf and bled it raised it up and down 5 or 6 times.the next day I brought a car in to try it and all the pump would do is humm. Of course it is out of warranty has anyone delt with this before?it is like the motor is locked.
Doug
 

CleanSC

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Jan 24, 2013
Messages
32
Sounds like either your rotary switch is jammed in the run position or the starting cap is dead or failing.

Is the lift under load (car on it)? I know sometimes when the cap is weak or if you install a cap that's not up to spec, it won't start the lift when under pressure, but it will when not under load, IE, no car on the lift. So if it's under load, drop the car all the way down to remove the load and try again.

Start with the caps. If all else fails, you can pull the motor and take it to a local motor/pump place and they can figure it out and fix whatever ails it.
 

Serj_DMR

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Mar 4, 2015
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Simi Valley, CA
Hop,

Clean gave some good suggestions here. Sounds like there might be issues with the power in your garage, the motor/cap might be having issues, or the ATF might be too cold. Anything below 50f and the fluid will start to thicken up. Anything below 45 and the fluid is, essentially, gel. It will not flow. Please call us at 877-432-6627 and we can review any other points with you to get you going.

-Serj
Dannmar Tech Team
 
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