Top Quality Engine Stand?

[dr_clyde]

Price is no object. Who makes the best of the best when it comes to engine stands? I want one that will take any engine I put on it. Not interested in anything that will bend under a 460 with iron heads and crank still in it.

 

[diesel research]

Isn't it the "blackhawk" that is a massive cast iron unit?

 

[dr_clyde]

I saw Bull's over on garagegazette, but I suspect I will have some difficulty locating one reliably.

 

[Outlawmws]

If cost is no object, talk to a reputable fab shop and have it made. They are not rocket science.

 

[dr_clyde]

I have no problem making one. I have a machine shop with plenty of fab equipment. I suppose I was just wondering what the benchmark was. I know I can build one better than most of the ones out there. What features are handy that you would've never thought of by yourself? What head design works best? What doesn't work?

I put the "price is no object" thing in there to weed out the inevitable "just go to HF" comment. I'm just lookin to see what guys like in their engine stands, so I can build one that works well and incorporates the best design elements of ones already made. I'm particularly interested in the head locking design, and possibly a geared rotating assembly of some nature.

I don't want to re-invent the wheel, but I don't just want to copy some lame design.... If i'm gonna build one, I'm gonna over build it.

 

[brett09]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ists + Stands&cm_cat=Google&cm_ven=Aggregates

Friends uncle has one. I've never seen anything heavier than a 350 on it, but it just barely sagged, a LOT less than the 1000 lb harbor freight one I use. Wish I could give a better suggestion, but thats the best one I have had any experience with.

 

[edl]

http://www.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products.php?product=OW1726-%2d-ENGINE-STAND-(1726)#

 

[edl]

another choice:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HEINWERNER-Engine-Stand-4CWN1?Pid=search

 

[Outlawmws]

That one from Northern is OK, but I still wouldn't buy it.

This is what I would be looking for if I were to build (yet another) engine stand today:

One piece frame construction. (Does anyone EVER fold them down for storage?)

Stay away from any 3 wheeler where the bottom frame is a "T" design. use an "I" design and 4 wheels or something like the Northern one shown. If you want to have a multi part bottom frame make it so you can widen the stance of the wheels. I don't care for the bracing straps on that Northern stand, they are at too shallow of an angle to have much effect. Put in welded braces that actually do something...

Use bigger wheels and use hard rubber of plastic coated wheels, the 2" steel wheels are **** and an accident waiting to happen. 4" at least, all casters, and all with locks.

The screw down legs aren't a bad idea, but why are they so far inboard? Put them outside the wheels if you use them.

Get a gear reducer box and a hand crank for it. Mount it so it can be swung up in a hinge to engage a bolt head on the center of engine plate cylinder, and lock in place, gear it low enough so it can hold the engine sideways by itself. Make sure you have lock positioning pins for several angles besides straight up or straight down (No I don't like set screws...). This may require several sets of holes in the holding sleeve and in the engine plate cylinder.

If you have an engine on the stand for long periods of time, make a front crank pulley support that can take the strain off the bell housing bolts. You aren't doing the block any long term good hanging from only the back. You can use a light 1-1/2 ton hydraulic jack mounted to a U channel that fits the center frame member if you use an "I' frame design, and make up a cradle and socket for the screw post.

Make the support plate so you can use up to 6 arms instead of 4. Yes you have to think about the geometry a bit before you cut and drill it, but it provides a LOT more support.

Make it so the engine sets level or near level (What purpose is served for that Northern stand to be up at such an exaggerated angle?). and think about the best height for most of your work. If its heads off, you might want it a bit higher.

 

[McRae]

Simple, this: http://www.weitnertools.com/products/MG600V.htm

 

[pragmatist]

If you have the resources I would just build one. I like having a pan under mine. Engineer it well and you can convert it into an engine run stand when the engines finished.

 

[Outlawmws]

Now that is a decent engine stand! I like the height adjustment, but would rather see 4 wheel locks instead of 2, and a bit wider of a stance, but it's pretty good!

 

[catsteve]

Price no object. maybe this one.

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-1750A.html

 

[Al Bundy]

Any guesses as to how many thousands that costs? (The Weitner)

 

[Danglerb]

The benchmark is how big is your wallet and whats the requirement, engine stands go from cheap car units to crazy expensive truck units without any real division except the price going up.

To me the space it takes up is more valuable than any feature, so I want the most compact when not in use I can get away with. The long blocks I work on weigh 625 lbs and I have no issues with the middle (fold out legs) HF that sells for about $60 on sale.

Friends of mine with a shop and fair sized yard got bored and made a big engine stand with full pan and nice casters etc. Mostly it sits over in a corner of the yard taking up space since its not nearly as handy as the cheap stands, and often enough they need more than a couple stands at once and there is just no room inside the shop for the monster when they have a full shop of cars to work on.

 

[Rickster]

Mine is kind of a unique one. I picked it up at a garage sale. Tag reads: All Point Motor Stand, Montaque Equipment Co., Urbana Ohio, Model PWP-0

 

[Blackbomber]

...One piece frame construction. (Does anyone EVER fold them down for storage?)...

I do. I don't do much motor work to begin with, and my space is cramped. Of course if I had more space, I'd have more projects, and more motor work. So at the end of the day, it's the space.

 

[bobcatdan]

99% of engine stands I have ever seen for sale I bet were made in the same factory in china. I have a cornwell 1,000 lbs geared head and it held a complete ford 300 straight 6 for close to a year with no problem. If you were to buy a stand, look for one with the geared head design.

 

[Danglerb]

Gear heads start at about $230, its nice, but do I need to pay and extra $160 to make turning the engine easier?

 

[Outlawmws]

Mine is kind of a unique one. I picked it up at a garage sale. Tag reads: All Point Motor Stand, Montaque Equipment Co., Urbana Ohio, Model PWP-0

I remember those. The theory was that you would find the center of gravity of the engine so you could rotate it easier. Maybe that was easier than in line with the crank , cause lord knows its tough that way, and you have to figure heads off and heads on at times... Never had an opportunity to try one though.

 

[Outlawmws]

Gear heads start at about $230, its nice, but do I need to pay and extra $160 to make turning the engine easier?

It's not so much about easier, its about safer. if you ever see one dumped over due to getting over center....

 

[Bull]

If you search your area with OCD-like intent, I bet you will find a Blackhawk sooner or later. The one I have (and that you apparently saw over on GG) is rated for 2,000lbs and is just a monster. Thick, thick steel, nice casters. From the time I started my OCD search until the time I found one, only maybe a month or so had passed. Maybe even less time.

I am hoping to test it out this winter by pulling the engine on my TA. We'll see if that actually happens.

 

[BTG]

AXE makes a nice one and is used by many of the Cup teams as well as the NHRA boys. We've powdercoated a few of them for Top Fuel teams.

 

[gwh]

Anyone have or know of any plans or photos for making an engine test stand? Does not need to be a full-blown dynamometer; just want to test-run engine and perform basic tests/adjustments on vintage engines like compression, carb, dwell, timing, valves, temp, charging, etc. Thought I saw a thread on how to build one not long ago on GJ, but now cannot find. Thanks, Guy

 

[Jim85IROC]

It's not so much about easier, its about safer. if you ever see one dumped over due to getting over center....

Many times I've seen guys let a fully dressed motor spin over upside down on the stand in order to access the underside. As long as you're using a sufficiently wide engine stand, and not some sort of top heavy freak of a motor, there is little risk of having an engine & stand dump over.

Not that I have the balls to try that with my engine & stand.

 

[sberry]

Any stand rated above 1000# which are the cheapest will do a dressed big block without issue.

 

[Scuderia-F1]

Try and search for the billet aluminum one that Hawks made in the early/mid -90´s.
Best looking engine stand I´ve ever seen, & it could hold a fully assembled Pro Mod engine no sweat...

 

[Rich H.]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Rc0oDlw3L._SS500_.jpg

 

[gt40mkii]

Here's what I'd like to see in the Ultimate engine stand:

• Aluminum construction. This is the 21st Century, folks, Why make it using 19th Century materials? Plus, the thing will be heavy enough with an engine on it, why add to the weight? You did say cost was not a factor.
• A crank mechanism to rotate the block along its longitudinal axis.
• BIG caster wheels so it doesn't threaten to fall over when the wheels hit a speck of dirt on the floor.
• pads to raise it off the casters, rendering it immoble.
• removeable tool tray
• removeable drip-tray
• Auxiliary support at the motor mount pads (would need to be block-specific.)
• Interchangeable mounting plates for the bellhousing to bolt onto. NO ADJUSTABLE arms! Simply install the proper plate. The plate will have permanently-attached fasteners to thread into the block (no more having to hunt down the right fasteners)
• WIDE feet, four of 'em.

 

[Strouty]

Gear heads start at about $230, its nice, but do I need to pay and extra $160 to make turning the engine easier?

Turning the engine is always easy, it is turning it back that the geared head makes it worth the extra $160. Of course you could be stronger than you are smarter and then this would not matter to you.

 

[Major Ramifications]

Even the cheapest Harbor Freight stands will not bend under the weight of a big block.

Hot Rod did a torture test and even the cheapest one had no problem with several times it rated capacity.

 

[gt40mkii]

Turning the engine is always easy, it is turning it back that the geared head makes it worth the extra $160. Of course you could be stronger than you are smarter and then this would not matter to you.

You haven't lived until you've tried to turn a nearly-fully-dressed (everything but the accessories,) 390 FE on an engine stand -- it ain't happening, folks. Better make sure the bottom end is 100% right before you button it up and flip the engine over!

 

[TonyCH]

[*]Aluminum construction. This is the 21st Century, folks, Why make it using 19th Century materials? Plus, the thing will be heavy enough with an engine on it, why add to the weight? You did say cost was not a factor.

Note, this is the 21st century, so why use 20th century materials and a compromise? If indeed cost is no factor then titanium is the way to go. Loads of strength but still very light.

 

[e30bradley]

I don't know, but mine is a POS. when I took a tour of UTI's Exton PA camput they had MASSIVE engine stands holding diesels out of 18wheelers. and even bigger engines.. Like 16 litre l6's.

 

[gt40mkii]

Note, this is the 21st century, so why use 20th century materials and a compromise? If indeed cost is no factor then titanium is the way to go. Loads of strength but still very light.

I considered that, but even though cost is no object, in theory, I opted to keep it semi-reasonable.

Hell, let's mill it from a solid block of forged titanium! We did that at Lockheed all the time. (I worked across from the giant routers that machined the mid-section ribs for the F-22. I probably still have titanium shavings from the shop floor in my car's carpet.

 

[TonyCH]

Even if cost would be totally non issue I would personally prefer heavier stand over lighter (balance).

Titanium, its not totally unreasonable. Titanium tubing is not that expensive after all if you shop around.

But seriously, I don't feel steel is old fashioned in such use. I would prefer steel frame over lighter material ones in my engine stand - even if they were the same price. I am not planning to carry the stand anywhere but I sure hope it stays upright with even the heaviest iron big block. While working on heavy big blocks I think additional weight in lower parts of the stand would be something you would want, don't you?

 

[gt40mkii]

While working on heavy big blocks I think additional weight in lower parts of the stand would be something you would want, don't you?

Not particularly. The difference in weight in a steel stand versus an aluminum or titanium (or magnesium, or ???) is so small compared to the 600+ pound engine its supporting that it's not going to move the4 center of gravity for the entire assembly much at all.

It'd be more of a difference if the engine were extremely lightweight,

And when empty, the lighter stand is easier to move around the shop and lift into the back of a truck.

 

[JASTECH]

I agree with Outlaws idea, I built many engines and some stands are more difficult. Now with my disability I am not dead and would like to build more engines. I would like to rebuild 4BT and 6BT's for myself and others but can't turn blocks over anymore so need a Handicap Stand of sorts. Additional support via motor mounts for different engines, make the stand modular with attachments for tools, nuts/bolts, permatex ect. Maybe hydrolic/geared height of stand, tray with drain tube below to jug. Tires with air as I hated pushing my BBC 402 and them little wheels snag on a washer and jolt the BB. I also like the "I" style, should be able to make it foldable in this century. Maybe power strip option. I would like to test it with a 4bt and be able to adjust/assemble into running engine on it would be a plus.

 

[metal4130]

I third the OTC "The Revolver" stand. I have 2 of them and they will handle whatever you throw at them.

They roll around the shop nicely and it is very easy to rotate the engine once mounted. They are the best stands I have ever seen. Overkill for small gas engines but just right for larger Diesels.

 

[Outlawmws]

Price is no object. Who makes the best of the best when it comes to engine stands? I want one that will take any engine I put on it. Not interested in anything that will bend under a 460 with iron heads and crank still in it.

So Dr, Since this thread was resurrected, and it's been a couple of months, did you do anything on this? Inquiring minds and all that.