After working in a dealership for about a year now, I've become spoiled, endless air, bright lighting, heat, lifts, etc. My garage at seems less and less appealing each day. I do side jobs whenever I can at the house for extra cash, but I've grown tired of using hand tools with everything. I've got a little 18gal Central Pnematic air compressor but it's got no power (4-6cfm iirc) and is wayyyyyy too loud for my 1 car garage. I also live in an apartment, so getting 220 wiring is out of the question. I'm hoping someone could point me in the right direction of an air compressor that can flow double digit cfm, preferably belt driven for noise, and that only requires 110 electricity. Preferably for under $1000. Am I wishing for a miracle? Or is this something feasible? I've looked at Home Depot, Harbor Frieght, Farm&Fleet, none of which seem to meet my needs. I plan on buying a house, but not for a couple years.
110 air compressor for home garage?
- Thread starter tenchu
- Start date
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I'm assuming you want >10 cfm at about 100 psi.
What you want does not exist, unless you can find a 2 HP compressor that can be rewired to 120V. Even then, it would need a 30A (10 gauge) circuit.
rlitman
Well-known member
You're not going to get double digit CFM on a 20A 120V circuit.
What are you trying to run that requires that much air?
We have one of these at work that I wheel around for blowing dust out of things.
Sort of going with a compressor made for a dentist (and those have a very limited air volume), this is as quiet as it gets. Yes, it's loud, but not enough to get annoying. It wheels around easily, but is VERY top heavy. That 5.5CFM is all you'll get out of a standard outlet.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O3E9WC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I've used it with a die grinder for maybe 1 minute of grinding before the motor kicks on. Not too bad. It should have plenty of air to run an impact gun or ratchet.
What are you trying to run that requires that much air?
We have one of these at work that I wheel around for blowing dust out of things.
Sort of going with a compressor made for a dentist (and those have a very limited air volume), this is as quiet as it gets. Yes, it's loud, but not enough to get annoying. It wheels around easily, but is VERY top heavy. That 5.5CFM is all you'll get out of a standard outlet.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O3E9WC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I've used it with a die grinder for maybe 1 minute of grinding before the motor kicks on. Not too bad. It should have plenty of air to run an impact gun or ratchet.
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
You've answered your own question.
For 110v, 5 to 7cfm is the limit due to the limiting factor of single stage motor and their being low HP (usually under 1.75hp) and thus only needing 110v service and that makes them semi-portable to boot and why they sell.
More cfm means higher horspower which usually means a dual stage unit, and by upping the hp means a bigger motor, wghich means a higher current draw thus 220v service.
A lot of used two stage units available on Craigslist, but most if not all likely need 220v.
It's a vicious cycle where more cfm means bigger motor which requires a higher voltage draw going all the way up to 3 phase power for the big power rotary compressors.
For 110v, 5 to 7cfm is the limit due to the limiting factor of single stage motor and their being low HP (usually under 1.75hp) and thus only needing 110v service and that makes them semi-portable to boot and why they sell.
More cfm means higher horspower which usually means a dual stage unit, and by upping the hp means a bigger motor, wghich means a higher current draw thus 220v service.
A lot of used two stage units available on Craigslist, but most if not all likely need 220v.
It's a vicious cycle where more cfm means bigger motor which requires a higher voltage draw going all the way up to 3 phase power for the big power rotary compressors.
My IR231 can barely break loose lug nuts with my current compressor, let alone something with some actual torque, so it's basically useless. And the damn thing is so loud my ears are literally ringing by the time it's done filling up ( after 2 lug nuts empty it). I want something that can actually spin my impact
alan camby
Well-known member
I think it is going to be hard to find a 10cfm+ compressor that runs on 110vac.
No matter what, I would buy a belt driven oil lubricated piston pump.
Some people will use 2 seperate 110 outlets to make 220 volts. Or maybe get the power from a stove or dryer.
Is your dryer in the garage?
No matter what, I would buy a belt driven oil lubricated piston pump.
Some people will use 2 seperate 110 outlets to make 220 volts. Or maybe get the power from a stove or dryer.
Is your dryer in the garage?
alan camby
Well-known member
If all you are doing is using a impact, additional volume might be the answer. The pump might run all the time trying to keep the tank full, But the tank will be able to flow high CFM for short durations. I see a lot of people using the wrong couplers that will not flow the CFM. I use 3/8" hose, the npt fitting might only be 1/4" but the body of the coupler should be 3/8". The common industrial 1/4" couplings do not flow enough CFM IMHO.
The largest air compressor in the world is no good with restrictive fittings.
The largest air compressor in the world is no good with restrictive fittings.
alan camby
Well-known member
I maintain 3 2057cfm Atlas Copcos at work. The are dogs with impact guns if you use those 1/4" fittings. Just something to keep in mind
rlitman
Well-known member
I think your issue may be more with airflow than with pressure.
Even a pancake compressor will remove lugnuts with my IM5100 (the IR231 is only rated for moderately less impact).
If you have a 1/4" quick connect on the compressor, and a long coil hose, with another quick connect at the tool, then yeah, you're not going to get much power out of an impact gun.
Edit: I was writing this before I saw that you were still using the 1/4" hose with the compressor.
Yeah, lose the quick connect fitting at the compressor end, and just get a brass coupling (or better yet, a full port ball valve), and connect the a 3/8" hose to that. Don't worry about the small port at the tank.
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alan camby
Well-known member
Most 1/2" impacts have 1/4" NPTF, and that is fine. The restriction is in the 1/4" quick coupling body size. Get a 1/4" NPT with 3/8" body coupler. I have proven this to doughting friends before. My IR 231 would not remove a bolt at their house.
Had to screw the hose directly into the impact (no 3/8" fitting available) to remove the bolt.
Had to screw the hose directly into the impact (no 3/8" fitting available) to remove the bolt.
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
A 2hp compressor will draw less than 20A at 240V. I have run mine on 50' of 12 gauge extension cord.
A 3.5hp Quincy will get you 12.4 cfm @ 100 psi and they claim it only draws 16A !
12 gauge should be good for 25'. If you want to go longer, I would go 10 gauge.
alan camby
Well-known member
The 1/4" (Pipe thread size) outlet should be fine, same as the IR231 inlet.
Get the 3/8 hose and the larger fittings.
I assume you are not running a reg or filter?
I have an oil free Craftsman Pro model that is around 25 gal. and runs quiet. It has no problems keeping up with an impact doing tires. I think the problem you have may be your compressor.
Like rlitman mentioned, your compressors sounds like it is performing like my old 4 gal. pancake compressor that I use with a nail gun. I could do one or two tires with it before it would kick on with an IR Titanium Impact.
The problem could also be that your air ratchet is inefficient or just an air hog. You may want to try one from work out at home and see if the performance improves.
Like rlitman mentioned, your compressors sounds like it is performing like my old 4 gal. pancake compressor that I use with a nail gun. I could do one or two tires with it before it would kick on with an IR Titanium Impact.
The problem could also be that your air ratchet is inefficient or just an air hog. You may want to try one from work out at home and see if the performance improves.
Yeah, just a hose from the compressor to the tool, nothing in between.
The IR is my work gun, but we have 2 huge air compressors at work so I wouldnt even notice if it was an air hog here.
alan camby
Well-known member
These are the kind of fittings I am talking about
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6534k71/=g5do2z
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6536k31/=g5dowo
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6534k71/=g5do2z
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/6536k31/=g5dowo
alan camby
Well-known member
Here is the one I use.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/9585k21/=g5dr5l
It is expesive but very nice. Post 19 has the best bang for the buck though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/9585k21/=g5dr5l
It is expesive but very nice. Post 19 has the best bang for the buck though.
You don't need 3/8" fittings for a 1/2" impact. Complete overkill in your situation, but more power to you if you want to use them. Use 1/4" npt with 1/4" quick connects on a 3/8" hose. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they sell a 25' USA 3/8" Goodyear hose for $15 IIRC.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-solid-brass-industrial-uick-coupler-set-68237.html
These will flow roughly 25 CFM with around a 10 PSI pressure loss IIRC, and 1/2" impacts pull roughly 20 CFM @ 90 psi. If your compressor is 125 psi, tie the hose in directly to the output with no quick disconnect and then put a coupler on the end with the tool. You'll be fine. If it doesn't take lugs off with that it's your impact. I use 1/4" couplers on my 1/2" HF Earthquake and it takes crank pulleys off regulated to 110 psi with two QC couplers on it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-solid-brass-industrial-uick-coupler-set-68237.html
These will flow roughly 25 CFM with around a 10 PSI pressure loss IIRC, and 1/2" impacts pull roughly 20 CFM @ 90 psi. If your compressor is 125 psi, tie the hose in directly to the output with no quick disconnect and then put a coupler on the end with the tool. You'll be fine. If it doesn't take lugs off with that it's your impact. I use 1/4" couplers on my 1/2" HF Earthquake and it takes crank pulleys off regulated to 110 psi with two QC couplers on it.
Is there any cons to running 3/8 fittings? I got these couplers and fitting for free from my parts department, so I figured it would be easier to convert everything to 3/8 sincey work uses 3/8 and it would make life simpler when bringing tools from work home.
camarotoolman
Banned
The 220v cord from the dryer plug is a good idea, I did that with a table saw. How about battery cordless tools or 120v corded tools?
rlitman
Well-known member
No. If that's what you have at work, then by all means, use them.
Their only drawback is that they're a little heavier.
I've been tossing around the idea of getting cordless tools. Milwaukee/Makita doesn't seem to have the tq I want, and for a snap-on cordless I figured I could get a decent air compressor.
alan camby
Well-known member
Found a few threads on couplers. Several 1/2" impacts owners manuals recomend 3/8" body fittings. I use more then just Impacts in my garage though, have a Blow gun that is rated to flow over 30cfm and my sand blast cabinet is very air hungry. To each their own though. You can measure, hear and feel the differance in the larger coupler sizes.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101388
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/air-couplers-fittings-whats-all-mean-117105.html
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101388
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/air-couplers-fittings-whats-all-mean-117105.html
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skeletonizer
Well-known member
This is the DeWalt that I got for Christmas a few years ago. I wanted something 110v and portable enough to take to a job site, maintenance free (relatively) and could deliver air enough to run a 1/2" impact.
It has done everything I have asked of it. The only time it has slowed me down is some extended work misusing a $9 Harbor Freight cut off tool that is a powerless turd yet still an air hog.
DeWalt D55168, the tank is US made by DeVilbiss. Not sure about the head.
http://www.google.com/search?q=DeWa...=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=1I7GGLL_en
It has done everything I have asked of it. The only time it has slowed me down is some extended work misusing a $9 Harbor Freight cut off tool that is a powerless turd yet still an air hog.
DeWalt D55168, the tank is US made by DeVilbiss. Not sure about the head.
http://www.google.com/search?q=DeWa...=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=1I7GGLL_en
kgorman
Well-known member
What about compressed nitrogen via tank? Airgas or other distributors can deliver and you can rent the tank. We use them at the track strapped to the trailer.
shampoop
Well-known member
I got a nice old school 110v belt drive oil lubed compressor that works great! Only $50 too! HP numbers are always inflated, but it's a 20A which is as high as it gets on 110. I'd suggest looking for something similar. That's basically the max cfm's you're going to get with 110, quiet, and should last a long time.
I made a thread when I got it. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109314
I made a thread when I got it. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109314
machine_punk
Well-known member
I have the 15A, 30 gallon compressor at home and it does run off a 15A circuit, no problems. It runs continuously to keep up with my die grinder, though.
Have you thought about a gas-powered compressor? Not much help with the noise, but you can get a little more CFM and you are not dependent on an electrical hookup.
Have you thought about a gas-powered compressor? Not much help with the noise, but you can get a little more CFM and you are not dependent on an electrical hookup.