Ceramic or Porcelain tile flooring for garage

[84944Redline]

Hi everyone,

This is my first post and just wanted to say a big hello and how awesome this site is!!! I've been pondering for over a year now about what type of flooring to put down in my garage. I did all the reading about epoxies, vinyl tiles, stains, and all the other usual suspects.

It wasn't until coming across this forum that I was able to get some great information about using ceramic and porcelain tiles. And after reading for hours, I think this may be the best solution for me.

Living in Omaha means having to deal with a wide range of temperatures. One of my biggest concerns is the snow, salt, and sand that is hell on cement. And being slippery is a concern, but I'm just looking for something that is at least less slippery than bare cement. From what I've read, it sounds like tile is a good fit. And I realize that it can be slick, but you have to use some common sense when walking across it.

I definitely need to post some pics of my garage to get some feedback. Here's my "qualifications requirements" list so far. Please don't take these as repeated questions to answer. I'm doing my best to gather all the accurate and supported details from all the other members. If you want to chime in, all thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

1.) Cost - I've got approx. 925 sq. ft.
2.) Durability - with this much ground to cover, I don't want to be doing on-going repairs (whether it's me or someone else doing it).
3.) A "fix" for some common issues such as cracks, uneven sections at joints, and minor pitting.
4.) Skill level required for a DIY job. By no means am i a pro, but I pay attention to detail and follow directions well. I have tiled before (kitchen backsplash and front entry floor) so at least have some experience with it. I'm confident that I'll put forth the required effort to do a proper install.
5.) Appearance - want it to look nice and now and years from now (so don't want something "trendy").

Sorry for the long post - and thank you if you read through all of it! I look forward to becoming more educated through all of you.

 

[snorky18]

I've considered tile for the garage as well. My biggest concern is the slight depressions at the grout lines in the floor when something like a floor jack goes across it while lifting a car.

For grout in the garage (or bathroom, kitchen, or anywhere likelty to get dirty), I really like Spectralock epoxy grout. The initial cost is high, but for a product that doesn't stain and never needs sealing, it was worth it to us on our tiled shower and bathroom, where it held up great. Admittedly that was a lot less thatn 900SF.

 

[84944Redline]

It would seem that moving a jack across the floor would be a bit of a concern, but numerous people have said that it isn't. I don't recall reading that anyone has had an issue - but maybe we'll get some readers to chime in? While I want a floor that can stand up to anything, I'll baby it and put down something over the tile when using a jack. :-/

For the grout - I've read repeatedly the epoxy kind is expensive and messy to work with. I'm leaning towards using a darker color and then sealing it myself. I'm okay with the cost savings trade-off if I have to re-seal it later on since it involves little time and labor. And given that the high traffic areas aren't that large, maybe that won't require having to re-seal all the lines???

 

[snorky18]

The need to reseal depends on grout color, and traffic, and dirt in that particular area. Our kitchen in our last house had a brown colored tile with a sandy brown colored (cementitious) grout, and we never resealed it, as even when it absorbed some dirt, it still looked the same. We just kept it swept. Resealing only part of it would most likely be noticeable as the appearance of the grout does change a bit with sealer.

I'll agree that epoxy is $$. I'll disagree on the messy to work with IF you follow the instructions to the letter. It is a lot less forgiving that traditional grout if you make a mistake, have to chip it out, etc, as the strength of it is more on par with actual concrete (maybe ~4000 PSI IIRC).

I'm not at all concerned about the jack moving across the floor by itself, I'm concerned when about when I have a car on it, and as the jack is raised, the floor jack moves a few inches towards the lifting point, and at that point it has a lot of weight on it. I'm wondering if the wheels have a chance to "get stuck" in the grout joint during that process, but I've never looked into it.

If you go with traditional grout and seal it, be sure the sealer is unopened and not too old. We had some friends who used some that had been on the shelf a long time, and it yellowed the grout appearance considerably, so the grout had to be redone (yuck).

 

[slickgt1]

Welcome to the board.

Go with Porcelain, it will be stronger. But if you find Jack Olsens garage, he has ceramic for half the price of my porcelain, and it is holding up just as well.

I like Epoxy grout, as I never have to reseal it or anything else.

I have been lifting my car with the floor jack, and I know what you mean by it moving. The grout line does not stop the jack. The jack wheels are too big for it. It looks like it catches the line under the weight, 5000lbs BMW x5, but next pump goes right over it. So I wouldn't worry at all.

Get the exterior grade non slip tile. Yes, it is not slippery. I mean I slipped on it wearing crocks through the rain and running into the garage, but I think that is more of a footwear fail than the tile. Otherwise I don't slip on it.

You don't need to baby tile, unless you are welding. So put down a welding blanket and call it a day.

See this thread for reference.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95966

1. Look for tile closeouts. I got mine at lowes for .97 per sq ft. Jack got his for like .50 sq ft.
2. Just back butter the tile, and make sure you don't have voids in the thinset. Will be stronger than most anything that falls on it.
3. Don't expect many fixes. I don't baby my floor, and I have not had to fix anything. That's the reason I went with tile.
4. I'm no pro, I had a pro advising me. Most important thing is that you back butter your tile. No voids.
5. Two years for mine. Looks same. I have a few spots with over spray on them, but a wire wheel will take car of that after the winter.

 

[84944Redline]

One of my biggest concerns is the climate where I'm at. I'm trying to decipher all I've read regarding porcelain vs. ceramic to see if one will outperform the other at all. Given what people have experienced with ceramic, it appears it is a very durable tile...given that it is installed properly!

When you say "exterior grade non slip", are you referring to vitreous and/or impervious moisture rating? Go with a PEI rating of 4 or 5 hardness rating? And a coefficient of friction being 0.60 or greater? I'll definitely have a lot of moisture from rain and snow (have a heated garage with a drain) and want the tile to hold up...and keep my family on their feet!

I'm on the hunt now for tile and will be searching around. I did happen to see a past post of an online retailer. I inquired about it and cost would be at $1.09/sq. ft. to my front door. That's after I called and spoke with someone in attempt to uncover any additional price cut or transportation discounts. Hope to find something cheaper locally.

I read a great thread in this forum about how to properly install tile, even watched the video link. Definitely realize this is a key part.

I'm thrilled to hear over and over about people giving true examples of just how darn durable tile can be when it's done right. I don't have any heavy machinery to use or move around, nor do I weld (yet, at least!), so I think a tile floor is my answer!

 

[71flh]

Maybe someone else suggested it, but for a carefree garage floor, why not... ...do nothing but well whatever you might do on a floor?

Nothing won't peel off, fade, sleep w/ other floors, etc. It will always look as good as it does now.

Get my meaning?

Do you want a floor, or a canvas for your neighbors to admire. If a canvas, you'll soon need a new car, house, wife (new *****), garage, and so n.

I question anyone painting their floor. Why?

 

[Hephaestus29]

There are several concrete options available , have you looked into concrete stain or polishing ? etc.

My next garage that is if I ever sell this house will have glass floors not glass pane but I want them polished really smooth so all I have to do is run a dust mop over it to clean up. It could be slick that way but after working in warehouses & factories most of my life i'm used to the floors being slick and can't remember a time that I ever busted my **** from it being polished. It's a different story if your trying to walk through an oil spill on a slick floor if you do you're asking for it anyway.

 

[Dakota00]

^^^ I don't think polished concrete is the best solution where the OP has a lot of moisture from rain and snow to content with.

I'm thrilled to hear over and over about people giving true examples of just how darn durable tile can be when it's done right. I don't have any heavy machinery to use or move around, nor do I weld (yet, at least!), so I think a tile floor is my answer!

You'll be surprised how durable a tile or stone can be. I did an exterior tile job last summer, the tiled part of the driveway was getting a workout not from a car but from a backhoe, dump truck and cement trucks, none of the tiles cracked. When the material is installed properly it will withstand the weight like concrete. You want full adhesion under the tile with no air bubbles. Lay the thin-set on the floor, back butter the tile and then set tile in place.

As for epoxy grout I stay away from it as its messy and time consuming. The grout I use has similar properties to epoxy without the hassles and it's easy to work with.

 

[6t7gto]

This post is from 2009. So my floor has been down for over 5 years.

I did mine with a dark grout and no major problems so far. It's been down 3 years.
It is slippery when wet but I put walk off mats around my wife's car and that took care of that problem.
I have dropped a wrench and put a little chip in it. No biggie.
I was going to go with epoxy but I read too many stories of not prepping well and having problems.
Got mine at Lowe's for less than $1.00 sq.ft. including thinset and grout. Borrowed the saw from the neighbor.
Had a fella that was in between jobs and I thought he could use the work. He quoted me $3.50 a sq.ft. to install. That would have been $3500.00 in labor for both areas of my garage. A couple of days earlier he was bragging that he had done 600 sq.ft. in one day. He asked me what I had in mind and I told him $1000.00 in small bills in an envelope. I did it myself.
Attached Thumbnails

Also, when I purchased everything from Lowe's I asked the dept. mgr. about a better price. He took another 10% off.

David

 

[slickgt1]

Yea not I am also in the NE. So my black tiles were PEI 4 and the tan ones are PEI 5, or the other way around, don't remember anymore. And speaking of moisture, the summers are a killer. You can die in the garage sometimes from sweating bullets. Still no problems with the tiles.

I also don't have a drain, so the water has to go to the main door, and I have weep holes through the threshold.

Not exactly heated, but I have the house steam pipes running through it, garage doesn't drop below 55 in the winter.

I still haven't chipped any tiles, and I don't understand why. Dropped a 18v Dewalt with a 1/2" drill bit in it from the ceiling. The thing made sparks when it hit the tile, drill bit first. I was shocked that both the drill and the tile survived. Not even mentioning all the other stuff that hit the floor.

 

[slickgt1]

This post is from 2009. So my floor has been down for over 5 years.

I did mine with a dark grout and no major problems so far. It's been down 3 years.
It is slippery when wet but I put walk off mats around my wife's car and that took care of that problem.
I have dropped a wrench and put a little chip in it. No biggie.
I was going to go with epoxy but I read too many stories of not prepping well and having problems.
Got mine at Lowe's for less than $1.00 sq.ft. including thinset and grout. Borrowed the saw from the neighbor.
Had a fella that was in between jobs and I thought he could use the work. He quoted me $3.50 a sq.ft. to install. That would have been $3500.00 in labor for both areas of my garage. A couple of days earlier he was bragging that he had done 600 sq.ft. in one day. He asked me what I had in mind and I told him $1000.00 in small bills in an envelope. I did it myself.
Attached Thumbnails

Also, when I purchased everything from Lowe's I asked the dept. mgr. about a better price. He took another 10% off.

David

Beautiful. I really like your layout.

Trick with epoxy grout is to not try and clean it all out. You need to sort of leave a film on the tile. Really hard to explain. You can't let it glaze, then clean, you sort of work it and move on. You can't walk on the tiles for a day though. If you let it glaze, you are EFFFED *********. I know, I had a learning curve too. Glad it was a "test" on a small hidden area.

 

[ct71rr]

These are almost identical to what I purchased. I used a coupon when I purchased them. I think it was 10% off.

http://www.homedepot.com/U-S-Cerami...tDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=12 x 12 porcelain tile&storeId=10051

There are some pretty good vids on Youtube demonstrating epoxy grout installs.

 

[slickgt1]

nice buy. Now install and show us pics.

 

[ct71rr]

nice buy. Now install and show us pics.

I know, wish I could. It's going to be a while before I get to that point

 

[slickgt1]

Why so? No time? Join the club. My renovation paused since the baby.

 

[ct71rr]

Why so? No time? Join the club. My renovation paused since the baby.

I cut the top of my left index finger off with table saw on Sunday...and i'm trying to get things done between work and being Mr. Mom during the day (working nights). Plus, I'm trying to be more careful with funds. I'm also going to wait until spring to pour the floor.

 

[slickgt1]

Wow that *****. Did you completely cut it off, or just a deep cut? Yea I feel your pain with everything else.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

So this is going to sound silly, how do you make sure the entire floor is level if you are doing tiles?

IE: You put one tile down and put the level on it to make sure it's level... do you keep doing that to EACH tile. If there is something I don't like how it looks is when you see that one tile is slightly higher or lower than another one causing the floor to look bad...

Just wondering how to combat this if this is a route that I go for tile.

-Nigel

 

[ct71rr]

NewShockerGuy, you don't want/can't make it level, you want the tiles to be flat if, that makes sense. That's my understanding anyway.

Slickgt1, I cut it off at an angle. Going from about top knuckle to top of the nail on the other side. Got the bone too...

 

[slickgt1]

Ouch. Good luck on the recovery. I know it's a *****. I've seen my father in law do it 2 times in front of me. One time I saw it about to happen, so gave him a shove away from the table saw.

Yea, you don't really want it level as much as flat. I re-pitched my floor with a mud job, so I went with that contour, only the perimeter is level. You need to make sure the edges are not sticking out past the adjacent tiles. The thinset gives you some wiggle room. You would use a level because it is a good straight edge.

 

[BUCKNERBUCK2]

Sorry to hear about the finger man, hope you recover quickly.

FYI everyone- Lowes has a Porcelain PEI 5 tile for $0.92 sq ft in my area...

 

[ct71rr]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'll be OK. It's just killing me sitting on my ****, not being able to work on the garage.

 

[D Force]

I put down some 18" porcelain tile about 18 months ago. I think I got it for about $1.75 sq/ft. I've had no problem with it yet. It has a slight texture on it, so slipping has not been an issue. I've dropped vises and tools on it and nothing has happen. Floor jack is not a problem either, although I've done all of my jacking in the driveway. Tile is very, very solid with a good foundation. I placed them as close together as they would let me. Epoxy grout.

 

[84944Redline]

D Force - very nice looking floor and thanks for the great picture. I am always curious to see what people use atthe lip of where the garage door comes down on. Looks like you used bullnose edging, correct? Do you mind my asking for choosing that instead of an aluminum or SS edging piece that others have used? Was your choice more for looks or function? Aren't the bullnose pieces substantially more expensive than other alternatives?

And as far as pattern - the majority I see are the checkerboard pattern. What about going with a brick pattern? Any reason why I haven't seen that done? Does it have anything to do with grouting or cleaning or anything else or just a personal preference?

One thing I need to address are the control joints. The one that runs perpendicular to the garage threshold is uneven (less than 1/4"). I'm not sure if grinding it down is the answer or if building up more thinset on the lower slab and tapering it off is the best suggested way.

And I don't think there's any movement between winter and summer months, so tiling over the joint should be okay, right?

 

[slickgt1]

Redline, I had two joints, didn't even give them two thoughts, went right over. Grinding seems like it would be a huge pain in the ***. I would chisel it off. Power chisel if you have it. If it really is less than 1/4", not sure I would bother with it, might be able to compensate when laying the tile. You might be able to just taper it off.

I also wanted to do bullnose edge, but couldn't find any that would match up to the checker pattern. Plus, in my case, I use the garage for everything, so the edge would be the first thing, something crashes into when I'm dragging things. Oh and the price.

You can do any pattern. There are post on here of people doing the brick pattern. I have tiled a bunch of bathrooms and stuff, and one thing I should mention, some tile, especially the rectangle ones, are bowed in the center. If you go that route, lay them in the pattern on the floor, and you will see right away the bowing. That's why I didn't even consider going that route.

D force, that does look very clean and nice.

 

[84944Redline]

I'd much prefer to not grind down or power chisel. Here are a few pictures of what I'm talking about. I've also included a picture of an intersection where each corner is slightly raised, but since they're all about the same - I don't think I'll have a problem there.

I'm all over the place with trying to figure out what to fill my control joints with. I've already got some PL Self-Leveling Concrete Crack Sealer, so not sure if that would suffice or not. I'd probably cut out all the old **** and put in new backer rod.

Oh, and I'm having one hell of a time trying to get my drain cover off!!! I've soaked it with PB Blaster and all sorts of other stuff for weeks. Tried fashioning a lever system to get some good leverage to pry it up. Dug out as much sand and dirt as I could...damn thing just won't budge. If anyone has some helpful tips to try, I welcome them all!

 

[slickgt1]

Yea that's not much. Leave it alone. Fill that joint with crack filler. If the PL gets hard, i would use it, otherwise concrete joint filler.

Why are you removing the drain?

 

[84944Redline]

The PL stuff says pretty flexible. That's what I read mixed things about; whether to use a flexible material or a solid one. I'll have to look into a concrete joint filler instead.

I'd like to get the drain cover off just so I can clean out all the gunk in the basket. I have no idea when it was last done (or ever done) and it drains slower than it should. I can see nasty stuff in there. And I may rethink putting the cover back on in fear it may rust in place again. I'd like the ability to have access to clean out the basket in the future. Instead of cutting the tile to go around the drain, it would be awesome if I could use some sort of 12"12" drain cover that would fit flush with the tile and be removable.

 

[slickgt1]

Is that drain cover a screw on type. Try spinning it. And yes, you can buy drain grates in various sizes. I'll try to find a catalog I have of a company that even makes custom grilles.

 

[Dakota00]

And as far as pattern - the majority I see are the checkerboard pattern. What about going with a brick pattern? Any reason why I haven't seen that done? Does it have anything to do with grouting or cleaning or anything else or just a personal preference?

One thing I need to address are the control joints. The one that runs perpendicular to the garage threshold is uneven (less than 1/4"). I'm not sure if grinding it down is the answer or if building up more thinset on the lower slab and tapering it off is the best suggested way.

And I don't think there's any movement between winter and summer months, so tiling over the joint should be okay, right?

As for patterns you can do what ever you like. But as Slickgt mentioned most 12X24 tiles have a bow in them which is a pain in the *** when installing and noticeable once the floor is grouted. That's why I'm planning to go with a 1/3 staggered joint with 12x24 tiles, it's a different look and the bow is not noticeable.

As for the control joints if you plan on tiling over them, make sure there isn't any movement in the slab between the winter and summer months. I've seen first hand of tile setters tiling over the joints and the mess after of tiles popped or splitting on the joint.
Another thing you can do which I do in some cases is place the grout lines on the control joint if possible and use silicone caulking instead of grout in the control joint. The slab moves freely causing no damage and the silicone keeps the joint clean and the water out.

Lastly regarding your floor drain. You can take a piece of matching tile and cut it to whatever size or shape and place it over the existing drain grille as a cover. Leave about 1/4" gap around the tile for water drainage. Add some feet to the tile to make it flush with the surrounding tiles.

 

[miltonnys]

Ceramic or porcelain tiles are ultimately the best option for a garage floor. Whether you use ceramic or porcelain will depend highly on what your year round climate is like. Ceramic can not be used in areas of the country that get below freezing. Ceramic when it freezes will crack and break, however, porcelain will hold up in these conditions. Both are very durable and stain resistant.

 

[slickgt1]

Ceramic and Porcelain have a PEI rating. PEI of 4 or 5 is suitable for freezing climates and outside use.

Porcelain is just a stronger tile, and if you do chip it, it is usually the same color throughout.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

So what you are saying is you can't make each tile level rather when you lay it down you want to put a level on it plus the tiles around so that it doesn't sit higher or lower than the other tiles? Do I have that correct?

More and more I look at the tile option it looks SOOO good!

-Nigel

 

[PecosBill]

Most of the time, in a garage, your floor is pitched to the opening, or to drains, so you don't want to level it. What you want is to keep the tile in plane, so using straight edges is preferable to levels. Evaluate your slab and see with there are any major depressions, and those can be filled first, just as crowns can be ground out. From there, a lot depends on your tile, and joint size. The larger the tile format, and the tighter the grout joint, the flatter your floor needs to be. It has been discussed quite a bit around here, but I am a big proponent of rectified edge and sub 1/8" grout joints. It makes it much easier to roll stuff around, and the tile is much less likely to chip at an edge. This option tends to be expensive, in both materials and labor, so some choose to go the cheaper, easier route of a cushioned edge and 3/16"+ joint.

...and whatever you do, do not bridge a control or expansion joint with tile, always honor your joints.

 

[D Force]

D Force - very nice looking floor and thanks for the great picture. I am always curious to see what people use atthe lip of where the garage door comes down on. Looks like you used bullnose edging, correct? Do you mind my asking for choosing that instead of an aluminum or SS edging piece that others have used? Was your choice more for looks or function? Aren't the bullnose pieces substantially more expensive than other alternatives?

And as far as pattern - the majority I see are the checkerboard pattern. What about going with a brick pattern? Any reason why I haven't seen that done? Does it have anything to do with grouting or cleaning or anything else or just a personal preference?

One thing I need to address are the control joints. The one that runs perpendicular to the garage threshold is uneven (less than 1/4"). I'm not sure if grinding it down is the answer or if building up more thinset on the lower slab and tapering it off is the best suggested way.

And I don't think there's any movement between winter and summer months, so tiling over the joint should be okay, right?

Well most of my chooses are due to a lack of imagination. I was always thinking about a bull-nose because I didn't think of anything else. I thought it would look good and didn't see an issue with using it. So far so good. The debate was whether to terminate the tile before or after the garage door threshold. I decided to have the door come down on the bull nose, to keep the floor height higher than the driveway to prevent rain water entering. I have very little pitch in my driveway. Also, I waited to long to decide weather to tile or not, and by the time I made the decision to buy, the close out tile had run out of bull nose, so I decided to get a complementary color bull-nose tile. Since you don't have to buy much bull-nose for the threshold, I think the cost was nominal.

I haven't seen any brick style tile laying, so again, I never thought of it, and the tile guys never talked about it. That might have looked nice and different, but I may not have gone that way. It might have increased the cost with more cuts. The grouting has no bearing on the utilitarian capability or cleaning of the floor. I think this look gives it a garage look. Just preference.

I poured and finished the concrete with the intention of tiling, so it is absolutely level and smooth. I can't believe you expansion joints are that uneven. They are usually the last thing troweled in, so they should be level. The tile guys put in some blue grout liquid to fill in the joints, to make the surface flat.

I'm in Tucson, AZ, so freezing in not an issue, nor a consideration.

 

[widesheds]

Putting in some liquid to fill in the little space will indeed make it to be a solution to the uneven flooring but at times the need of the hour will be something different. There are many people who have be found the uneven flooring to be more compatible.

 

[84944Redline]

I haven't paid close enough attention over time to the uneven slabs, so I can't say for 100% sure whether or not they move with the transition of seasons. All I can say is that it's not noticeably different, so if it does move - I THINK it's minimal. I really don't want to monitor the movement for an extended period of time...

Given where I'm located, would I get more votes to "honor" the joints? I'd hate to have to, in the long run, continually replace cracked tiles between seasons. Would it be advisable to treat each slab section as it's own tile install? And if so, would I then be better off using Sikaflex or a similar product for those tile joints that follow the slab joints?

I've seen lots of comments about Legacy Industrial's HD-821 and wondering if that would be highly recommended for my garage?

Oh - quick note about the floor drain grate. There aren't any visible screws holding it down, and I can't imagine the whole cover is a screw type. That just doesn't make sense to me that it would be designed that way taking into consideration where it's used.

I would image some of you out there who install floor coverings have come across hard to remove floor drain grates. Can any of you comment on experiences and how they were removed?

 

[Jack Olsen]

Ceramic or porcelain tiles are ultimately the best option for a garage floor. Whether you use ceramic or porcelain will depend highly on what your year round climate is like. Ceramic can not be used in areas of the country that get below freezing. Ceramic when it freezes will crack and break, however, porcelain will hold up in these conditions. Both are very durable and stain resistant.

Ceramic and Porcelain have a PEI rating. PEI of 4 or 5 is suitable for freezing climates and outside use.

Porcelain is just a stronger tile, and if you do chip it, it is usually the same color throughout.

Um, neither of these posts are correct. Ceramic and Porcelain can both be used in exterior freeze/thaw applications. You just have to have tile that's rated for it. PEI ratings (which go up to 5) have nothing to do with freeze/thaw; they're a hardness rating. Tiles are given a PEI rating, and also a coefficient of friction rating (which allows them to meet particular building codes, and has to do with how slippery they are), and also a mosture content rating. It's the moisture content rating that will determine the suitability of that particular tile for freeze/thaw conditions. Too much water and the tile is subject to break when it freezes and expands.

 

[slickgt1]

Um, neither of these posts are correct. Ceramic and Porcelain can both be used in exterior freeze/thaw applications. You just have to have tile that's rated for it. PEI ratings (which go up to 5) have nothing to do with freeze/thaw; they're a hardness rating. Tiles are given a PEI rating, and also a coefficient of friction rating (which allows them to meet particular building codes, and has to do with how slippery they are), and also a mosture content rating. It's the moisture content rating that will determine the suitability of that particular tile for freeze/thaw conditions. Too much water and the tile is subject to break when it freezes and expands.

You are correct. I think I was sleeping in that post. Completely forgot to mention the moisture content rating. Thank you.