OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
I may have to look into one....
Carburetor parts dip.
- Thread starter RangerDaleXp
- Start date
I may have to look into one....
brslk
Banned
Before.
During.
And after.
Nothing but pine-sol mixed 50/50 with warm water and soaked for 24 hours.
I was amazed.
Bruce.
During.
And after.
Nothing but pine-sol mixed 50/50 with warm water and soaked for 24 hours.
I was amazed.
Bruce.
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Before.
During.
And after.
Nothing but pine-sol mixed 50/50 with warm water and soaked for 24 hours.
I was amazed.
Bruce.
Those look real good. Did you have any issues with the brass and any issues with the throttle shafts? How much ginger ale should I add as well
brslk
Banned
Those look real good. Did you have any issues with the brass and any issues with the throttle shafts? How much ginger ale should I add as well
No issues at all. As for the ginger ale, just add till it tastes good.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
We do not have MEK in California unfortunately, It is some kind of green **** that takes the place of MEK. I know it is another CARB restriction from Sacramento
You mean I need to be buying real MEK at yard sales?
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
You mean I need to be buying real MEK at yard sales?
About a year ago I tried to get some MEK and it was some substitute. California is really trying to get rid of all the stuff that works. Remember, California brought to the nation Nancy Pelosi and Barbra Boxer and Diane Feinstein. Diane Feinstein was responsible for the legislation on small engines to meet new emissions laws....
I clean carbs on a regular basis. Regular as in 2-3 times a month for the last 4-5 years. Various family and friends either bring their bikes to me, or come to my place to work on them.
I keep my and the boys dirt bikes jetted properly for changing weather and temps. They race, I don't race full time any more, but I do like my bike to be jetted/tuned as razor sharp as possible. With Texas weather, and the fact we run races and ride all over from New Mexico to Oklahoma to South Texas and Louisiana it is common to go from running at sea level just outside of Houston, to 1400ft in New Mexico with temps that swing as much as 30-40 degrees from one week to the next. This means a rejet, and usually means more than just a main jet or needle clip position.
As a result, I'm into the carbs all the time. Dirt bikes get dirty and I'm a clean freak where carbs are concerned, so any time I open one up (at home) I pull it, tank it and make sure it's in 100% condition before it goes back on.
I've been through almost every magic snake oil wonder solution to clean carbs sold since the beginning of time. Some work better than others, many don't work worth a damn period.
About 4 years ago I decided to skip all the hype/claims and propaganda about whatever the latest rage was and settled on two things.
Simple Green, or mineral spirits.
Both will work well in a parts washer, both work well in a soak with a brush afterward, both are less caustic on your skin and disposal for either doesn't require a team in space suits. Mineral spirits is better if you have a lot of varnish. If the float(s) is discolored in any way, go with the mineral spirits.
If you have a couple of days, mix some Simple Green (automotive formula if you can find it) and hot (out of the tap) water about 70:30 ratio. Yank the floats and needle(s) out and toss the whole carb it. After about a day, take out all the jets and toss them (replace with new ones) let it soak overnight again. Hit the body with a soft toothbrush if needed, rinse well with clean water and spread the parts out to air dry. You can use compressed air, just make sure your inline dryer is working.
This will clean up an ugly looking carb that has been neglected. Simple Green won't eat up the viton and thin rubber inside like many distillates will. Of course, replace the gaskets when they look the least bit suspect.
Mineral spirits works much faster and is easier to dry after a dunk. Some internals might be affected by the mineral spirits if they are old or marginal. Internals like needle seats etc. mostly. But, if you are in the process of a rebuild this won't matter.
Some people claim Simple Green is hard on aluminum, but I've never seen the first sign of a problem using it.
I've done the Pine Sol thing, and it does work. Just keep in mind, if you are dealing with any fiber or cellulose gaskets to keep them out of the Pine Sol as it will cause them to decompose if left in too long.
One of my good riding friends cleans his carbs with a liquid laundry detergent soak overnight then mineral spirits. He uses Gain liquid and I can tell you that stuff works like gang busters for getting built up **** out of a carb. I just find the clean up to be a hassle as it does suds up some and it takes longer than I like to get it all out of a carb.
Kerosene works in a pinch, as does other stuff. Just go with something simple and skip all the $10/bottle stuff.
I know, fuel injection would save me some trouble, but I'm old school and set in my ways. I'll end up with an EFI bike in due time, but probably not for a while yet.
I keep my and the boys dirt bikes jetted properly for changing weather and temps. They race, I don't race full time any more, but I do like my bike to be jetted/tuned as razor sharp as possible. With Texas weather, and the fact we run races and ride all over from New Mexico to Oklahoma to South Texas and Louisiana it is common to go from running at sea level just outside of Houston, to 1400ft in New Mexico with temps that swing as much as 30-40 degrees from one week to the next. This means a rejet, and usually means more than just a main jet or needle clip position.
As a result, I'm into the carbs all the time. Dirt bikes get dirty and I'm a clean freak where carbs are concerned, so any time I open one up (at home) I pull it, tank it and make sure it's in 100% condition before it goes back on.
I've been through almost every magic snake oil wonder solution to clean carbs sold since the beginning of time. Some work better than others, many don't work worth a damn period.
About 4 years ago I decided to skip all the hype/claims and propaganda about whatever the latest rage was and settled on two things.
Simple Green, or mineral spirits.
Both will work well in a parts washer, both work well in a soak with a brush afterward, both are less caustic on your skin and disposal for either doesn't require a team in space suits. Mineral spirits is better if you have a lot of varnish. If the float(s) is discolored in any way, go with the mineral spirits.
If you have a couple of days, mix some Simple Green (automotive formula if you can find it) and hot (out of the tap) water about 70:30 ratio. Yank the floats and needle(s) out and toss the whole carb it. After about a day, take out all the jets and toss them (replace with new ones) let it soak overnight again. Hit the body with a soft toothbrush if needed, rinse well with clean water and spread the parts out to air dry. You can use compressed air, just make sure your inline dryer is working.
This will clean up an ugly looking carb that has been neglected. Simple Green won't eat up the viton and thin rubber inside like many distillates will. Of course, replace the gaskets when they look the least bit suspect.
Mineral spirits works much faster and is easier to dry after a dunk. Some internals might be affected by the mineral spirits if they are old or marginal. Internals like needle seats etc. mostly. But, if you are in the process of a rebuild this won't matter.
Some people claim Simple Green is hard on aluminum, but I've never seen the first sign of a problem using it.
I've done the Pine Sol thing, and it does work. Just keep in mind, if you are dealing with any fiber or cellulose gaskets to keep them out of the Pine Sol as it will cause them to decompose if left in too long.
One of my good riding friends cleans his carbs with a liquid laundry detergent soak overnight then mineral spirits. He uses Gain liquid and I can tell you that stuff works like gang busters for getting built up **** out of a carb. I just find the clean up to be a hassle as it does suds up some and it takes longer than I like to get it all out of a carb.
Kerosene works in a pinch, as does other stuff. Just go with something simple and skip all the $10/bottle stuff.
I know, fuel injection would save me some trouble, but I'm old school and set in my ways. I'll end up with an EFI bike in due time, but probably not for a while yet.
JASTECH
Well-known member
I find the Pine-Sol idea the best. No chemicals, polution ect. is best for the enviroment. Remember, we don't own the planet, it's on loan to us. So the pine-sol with ultrisonic sounds good if that will work? I would like to know. In one of my Scout's I have a Edelbrock polished carb. that needs rebuilt and the off-road kit installed. Will the pine-sol harm it?
Bullitt427
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2011
- Messages
- 244
Elroy read you dissertation with interest until you made this statement:
I don't know about you but Elroy doesn't have all week to clean a carb and then turn around and piss hard earned money out the window by tossing the main metering orifices in the trash. What do you do about the air bleeds and the emulsion tubes?? These components have just as much influence on establishing the correct fuel mixture as the main well jet. Do you toss these components in the trash as well ?? Your bold statements make Elroy wonder if you actually have a clue about how a carburetor works.
When it comes to choosing an effective carburetor cleaning chemical for Elroy the first determination is find out what the casting are made from. When it comes to a cast iron body, acid is the trick hands down. Aluminum and zinc castings also respond to acids as well but you have to be more careful in choosing a concentration that won't attack the base metal yet still devolves the deposits and varnish. Neglected carbs will typically have corrosion issues that impact proper meeting as much or more than simple "dirt" and varnish.
Caustic such as Simple Green and Castrol Super Clean are very effective on simple dirt. You'll also find these caustics will attack the base metal and do irreparable harm if the conditions are right.
Elroy chooses a multi step approach. First is a complete mechanical disassembly. Simple dirt is easily removed with the solvent of your choice. Gasoline and / or mineral spirits both work well. Then it's time to address the varnish deposited by the gasoline. Elroy has found that Valvoline Syntec is simply unsurpassed in its ability to dissolve the most stubborn varnish.
A close inspection of the remaining deposits determines the next step for Elroy. As stated above, an acid works extremely well but acid will typically strip the dyes applied at the factory that seals the casting porosity and inhibits corrosion formation. If corrosion has a foot hold you either remove it or let its detrimental effects continue. For Elroy, a carb that has corrosion gets a full acid strip. Aluminum and zinc casting main bodies get the caustic treatment.
The final cleaning steps for Elroy are a soap and water bath followed up with a compressed air blow of all passages. Some WD-40 to displace the water and a final hit with the Syntec completes the cleaning steps. Assemble on a CLEAN work bench. In Elroy's humble opinion, to simply state "use XYZ", shows a true lack and understanding the issues at hand.
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Look at the MSDS for Berrymans. MSDSs are your friend.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/docs/0996.pdf
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/docs/0901, 0905.pdf
There's two grades of Berrymans Carb dip. PN 996 and PN 901 and 905
THIS:
Is not the same stuff as THIS:
They are definitely different products according to the MSDs....
Well, regardless of what "Elroy says" wasting time cleaning jets is more than I have the patience for. This includes air and fuel pilots as well as mains. As far as having a week to clean carbs, neither do I - that's why we have spares.
As far as whether or not I have a clue about how a carb actually works, when you can discuss the point at which altitude, temperature and humidity affect emulsion tube flow metrics, then we can talk shop. In the interest of brevity, I won't ask at what point emulsion tubes burp in 110 degree heat on a cloudy, humid day vs 65 degree days in the desert.
I and my boys have been factory sponsored by Keihin since 1999. Spares and a few jets to work with aren't a huge factor in cleaning a carb, but they are certainly time savers.
In the interest of not hosing up the OP's thread, stick your chest out and blow hard somewhere else, you're barking up the wrong tree here.
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
I did find elroys post a bit informative and rude at the same time. There are time when you cant just throw out carburetor parts because they may be obsolete and replacements may not be available anymore. I did start this thread to find alternatives to the good old stuff that was available 20 years ago that is no longer around.
Believe me, I made the mistake in soaking a chainsaw carburetor in superclean which destroyed the carburetor. I also tried simple green which worked but not as well as I would like. As for the Pine Sol idea, It looks to be the most promising Idea yet from what I have read on the Internet, It still has its issues as well.
Hopefully some more Ideas will be posted as well?
fordbroncodave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 4,555
i hear diesel alot for a parts washers but i don't know the relationship between that and carb cleaning. diesel works good overall but not certain for cleaning rather then degreasing.
i saw a 5 gallon bucket of "parts cleaner" (which was actually mineral spirits) at menards in minnesota for $45. mineral spirits in general has become way more expensive then its worth.
i'd try kerosene but that stuff is a nose bleed now too. i think i saw it for $22 for 2.5 gallons?
i saw a 5 gallon bucket of "parts cleaner" (which was actually mineral spirits) at menards in minnesota for $45. mineral spirits in general has become way more expensive then its worth.
i'd try kerosene but that stuff is a nose bleed now too. i think i saw it for $22 for 2.5 gallons?
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
carb dip is a different type of thing than a parts washer type of stuff. The good old carb dip used to remove paint and it goes after varnish and baked on contamination and does not leave a oily residue. We used to sometimes clean the outside of a carburetor in a parts washer first then disassemble it to be soaked in the dip.
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
gonefirefighting
Well-known member
I use a large ultra sonic machine and simple green with boiling hot water. never had to run anything for more than 8 hours.
SIDECAR BOB
Well-known member
Had forgot about that stuff , hadn't seen it for years, works great. or ised to if the havn't changed it, wear gloves
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Still available believe it or not in California at my Local Carquest. Not cheap at $37 a gallon can so I did not pick one up till I get some input first. I don't want to make the same mistake like I did with the Berrymans one gallon can I bought a year ago...
Schurkey
Well-known member
First Guess: If you can get it in California, it isn't a product that will do the job.
hydramatic
Well-known member
Berryman..stinks to high hell..works great..We have a Hazmat room with 5 buckets of it..we soak Injector pumps..Then a hot rinse with water. then Mineral spirits, then blow dry
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
I would have to agree with what you said. CARB has been a HUGE road block on a lot of other stuff that cant be sold here as well in California....
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Not the stuff in California, It has almost no Oder and cleans like water. It was pointed out earlier in his thread that there are two grades of berryman. The normal one gallon paint can stuff and the one gallon professional can as well as the 5 gallon bucket. I looked to order the professional stuff and it shows California restrictions.....
hydramatic
Well-known member
Berryman for me..I don`t have 8 hours to soak..customer is on my ***..Need it in a hurry...
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Have not tried amazon but the two other places said it can not be shipped to California. I know a auto paint guy that has ran into the same problems with certain paints not meeting CARBS low VOC ratings. I also tried our local good old boys auto part store to see if any could be special ordered. They said they cant because of the CARB restrictions as well....
I ended up cleaning the carburetor the best I could with spray cans and will try to pick up a 5 gallon can next time I am in Nevada or Arizona next time....
The 5 gallon can of McKays I had was old and finished and what was left leaked out of the bottom......
fordbroncodave
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i delivered a 5 gallon metal bucket of carb cleaner last week. it is a dark red container. the guy i delivered it to said its the best store bought cleaner at a whopping $110. for sale at your nearest carquest (not sure about california)
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
Ya, the only stuff the Carquest near me has is the green and yellow can of TYME which I posted earier to get some input and the non professional berrymans. The other carquest only has the non professional berrymans as well. I also checked NAPA and Autozone as well as oreillys and it is the same non professional berrymans.
fordbroncodave
Well-known member
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- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
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try this, request the professional stuff when you go there. (try to get a part number for the good stuff before arriving) if there is none in california they might order from the nearest warehouse out of state. (usually takes a day or 2 depending on location and transfers at no additional cost)
slip of the lip and nobody will know the difference. might work, doesn't hurt to try
slip of the lip and nobody will know the difference. might work, doesn't hurt to try
FuelRoadster
Member
I remember in the 60s & 70s(maybe 80s) a guy could soak a V-8 rod & piston assy overnight in either Berrymans or McKays...the strong stuff & I actually liked the smell of it at times.
Gallon can with the basket removed.The stuff would literally remove all signs of cooked-on carbon and yellowing on the skirts from pistons.
Would the pine sol deal work for this?
I'm curious about the NAPA stuff posted earlier.
Gallon can with the basket removed.The stuff would literally remove all signs of cooked-on carbon and yellowing on the skirts from pistons.
Would the pine sol deal work for this?
I'm curious about the NAPA stuff posted earlier.
OP
RangerDaleXp
Well-known member
I am not sure if the pinesol would deal with carbon build up like the old stuff did.
Garage-Junkie
Well-known member
i can't seem to find Berryman B9 Chem Dip anywhere. They all have a new label and doesn't list B9 or B12 anywhere. Called the manufacturer, they said 0996 is all B12, and that they don't make B9 anymore. Anybody know where to buy actual B9 online? Checked amazon, and the thumbnail showed the B9 logo, but when I clicked on the link the actual product is the current B12.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Try finding the Yamaha Carp cleaner from a motorcycle shop, it has the best rep for resurrecting 40-50 YO Honda 90 Carbs.
Provincial
Well-known member
joel63
Well-known member
Back in the day I used to use a product by Gunk called Hydro Seal.
It was a caustic solution with a layer of water over it that came in a 5 or 1 gallon bucket.
I found it to be an excellent carburetor cleaner; you just didn't want to get it on your hands or skin.
Not sure if it's still sold.
It was a caustic solution with a layer of water over it that came in a 5 or 1 gallon bucket.
I found it to be an excellent carburetor cleaner; you just didn't want to get it on your hands or skin.
Not sure if it's still sold.
ZRX61
Well-known member
ZRX61
Well-known member
Regular paint stripper dissolves carbon
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Does it remove the scales well? How about the bones?
Scales come right off! Not sure on the bones...
spacedoutbob
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- Joined
- Jan 4, 2013
- Messages
- 149
I remember the old Carburetor Parts Cleaner from this guy EZ Kleen, I would use the 5 gallon pails until they got old, then put them in a 33 1/3 gallon drum. I would use the old stuff to soak valve covers, rocker arms. push rods and other engine parts overnight. In the morning they would look like new. Too bad we can't do that now here in California.
Bob
Bob