Starting a JD210 lawn tractor restoration

[JUSTA50]

Well, my yong son is facinated with tractors so I pulled the 1976 John Deere 210 out of the woods the other night with the intention of trying to restore it/turn it into a mini tractor. To preface, I have never restored a thing in my life, have no rebuild experience, but have tinkered with cars off and on. This should be interesting.
My question is, what tools do I need? I can already tell by the rust and 35 year old nuts and bolts that I need some pneumatic tools. Probably a sand blaster to clean off parts, but what else?

I'd like to try and make it look as much like an old 50's-60's JD "A" or "G" as I can. I would have loved to find an older model platform, but it was free.

 

[kmacht]

If it is rusted up I would recommend getting a small oxy/acetylene setup. It works much better for heating up bolts to try and break the rust. If the bolt doesn't come off with a wrench or pneumatic impact gun after heating then you can always cut it off with the torch.

Keith

 

[ndnchf]

A glass bead cabinet will be a great help for many projects. Big things can be sand blasted (or farmed out to a local shop, its pretty inexpensive). Good penetrating oil like Kroil will be a good friend. A good place to work (at table to put it on will save an aching back). The most important tool of all is patience. Dont try to hurry and end up damaging something.

Oh, and by the way

 

[Lippyp]

I would have thought some decent lifting gear would be in order as tractor parts can be ****** heavy!

 

[49tandc]

Your first tool should be a camera! Take lots of pics - of EVERYTHING. You will appreciate them later when you can't fit parts back together.

Next, get the Owners & Service manuals and STUDY them.

Then buy lots of zip-lock storage bags and Sharpies. Get a few bottles of Toilet Bowl Cleaner & plastic totes for cleaning & de-rusting parts. and a can of PB-Blaster


How much room do you have to dedicate to the project?


49T&C

 

[JUSTA50]

Thanks for the recomendations. I'll start the pics tonight and post as I go. I was trying to figure out how to get in a small lift of some sort to bring it up to a good working height. Currently its in my detached 32x32 garage I just built. I also need a compressor. Use to sell them, wish I had picked one up then. I guess a run to Northern Tool is in order.

 

[buening]

Excellent choice for a small project with your son! It's small enough that it won't take forever to restore like a car would. I restored a 1977 JD 214 a few years ago. I tore it down to the bare frame and restored every piece or bought new pieces. I even rebuilt the motor. Get yourself Service Manual first and foremost. They can be found on Ebay or possibly from John Deere. Ebay will be cheaper. The Service Manual will walk you through adjusting or removing/installing most all components of the tractor. You can also buy a PDF on ebay and print it out yourself (300ish pages) http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-...648?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item27c439c810

I'd also start poking around this forum: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi The Restoration and Repair - Gear Drive Tractor forum was the one I stayed in the most

Also, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how many parts are still made for these tractors! You can practically buy every part on these tractors with exception to the frame and some larger body panels. Below is a link for the parts section of John Deere's website.

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

You want the "1473-200,210,212,214, and 216 Lawn and Garden Tractors" section on the left. Expand that and then expand the sectional index section and subsection and you'll now find parts for the location you specify for the tractor (like electrical or steering gear, for example). Keep in mind things changed over the years and you'll notice some parts are offered for different ranges of Serial Numbers. Your serial number should on the plaque located between the steering column and the shifter (on the pedestal next to the ignition switch). If you don't like using the internet to find parts, they also make a parts manual that is similar to the

After restoring the lawn tractor, you'll know every part and how it actually works....that way if something breaks or doesn't work correctly you'll know exactly how to fix it! No special tools are needed from what I recall. Basic hand tools unless you get into rebuilding the engine, then you'll need a gear puller, large socket for bearing and seal driver, cylinder hone (or have a shop bore it for you), and ring expanders (found at your local autozone). Hope this helps!

 

[JUSTA50]

Thanks for the wonderful information. We worked on it for a few hours last night. Got the body off and gas tank off. The tank was full of bad gas/water. Took a lot of pictures so might try and post some tonight. I had been searching for a service manual but only found the expensive original hard copies. Thanks for the link to the print off. I've also already started a list of parts I'm going to need to replace, so the parts link will also be beneficial. I see your also a mustang guy. I'll have to post up a few pick of my 93. Thanks again.

 

[buening]

Not a problem! Between using a service manual, parts diagram either on JD's website or in book form, and utilizing that forum there isn't anything you can't tackle on that tractor! I would recommend replacing a spring in the shifter fork assembly inside the rear axle. It causes the shifter to pop out of gear if the spring is broken. I didn't go inside the rear axle, and once I got everything together I found out the stupid spring is broken and won't stay in 2nd gear

 

[jonb347]

I asked my friend at work to write out a reply, hes a john deere freak and has literally like 30 big and small that hes done. a lot of what buening said he said too but im just gonna copy his reply....

My advice is to start with a pre '68 John Deere 110, they are around for sale here and there and would not break the bank, especially if condition of the hood is not important, this style tractor (refered to as "round fender") is more primative and would lend itself to a project like this much easier. But with that said, anything is possible. He should go to www.weekendfreedommachines.com there will be all kinds of info there for him. Air tools are not necessary....and a sand blaster would require a large compressor.... so scratch that too. Just use elbow power.... also check out www.doncampbellmodels.com he is at the beginning of a 1/2 scale John Deere project. Hope this helps. Howard

 

[JUSTA50]

Well, got a little work done over the last few nights. Got the seat, body, tank, Thinking about doing a narrow front conversion. I know it will make it less work friendly, but will never use it again for work. Put a battery in, but still nothing. Jumped the solenoid and still no power. Starter?

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[Doug B]

I'd like to try and make it look as much like an old 50's-60's JD "A" or "G" as I can. I would have loved to find an older model platform, but it was free.

IMHO,as this is your first project,I would suggest keeping it all original. This 210 will soon be a classic. When this resto is done,find another less classic JD to modify.
Have fun! and keep the pics coming.

 

[buening]

Take the positive cable off the solenoid and touch the starter post with it to see if it bumps over. The solenoid should have a ground cable if I recall correctly, or at least grounded to the tower metal.

 

[mysta2]

Super cool project, my father in law's got an old Honda mower like this and every time we go out there I want to tear into it and see if I can get it going again. It's a really cool looking little thing.

I've never done a "tractor" but I've broken down a bunch of old motorcycles and the most indespensible tool you can have is an impact driver:

It will remove all kinds of bolts that you would destroy any other way. It's only really relevant for phillips heads though, I don't know if tractors have those.

 

[Displaced Hokie]

I have extensive JD lawn & garden experience, and I also agree I would not try to do that modification on a 210. Reason is that it will never look exactly right. Some have done it on the "separate fender" 64-67 110's and they look OK as they have the old tractor look.

The later machines with the "fenderdecks" like your's don't as much (IMHO). If it's your first, I'd just restore that 210. Good tractors to play with, and actually quite useful. Trick it out with some bar tires front and rear (or front ribs) and go sort of "super stock" maybe.

 

[JUSTA50]

I'm still up in the air about the narrow front. I agree that with the stock rear body, it wouldn't look good, but was thinking about not even using it and making some new custom rear fender covers. We will see.

Buening, you say to remove the positive cable from the solenoid, leaving it attached to the battery, and touch it to the starter post. The solenoid is grounded to the frame.

 

[buening]

Yeah, basically it is bypassing the solenoid to eliminate a possible bad solenoid. Be smart when doing this though for obvious reasons. You could also remove the starter and put the battery and starter on the bench, run the negative cable to the metal on the starter and touch the positive to the starter post to see if it spins.

I'd also recommend getting rid of the points and go with a Points Saver electronic ignition setup from here: http://www.kirkengines.com/

They have some other neat stuff like the billet breather and fuel pump cover, and side cover retaining knobs (very handy but can be purchased at your local hardware store for less most likely).

I'd also recommend the nylok wingnut for the air cleaner (look locally), Facet electric fuel pump (makes starting easier), thrust bearing addition to the steering box (see weekendfreedommachines forum for more info), and a remote oil drain as it is located right above the draft plate of the deck. Its a pain to change the oil unless you remove the deck.

 

[ed_v]

IMHO,as this is your first project,I would suggest keeping it all original. This 210 will soon be a classic. When this resto is done,find another less classic JD to modify.
Have fun! and keep the pics coming.

I agree with this.

Great project and it's cool you are doing it with your son. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to updates.

Ed

 

[Steevo]

Your first "tool" needs to be a membership in the forums at mytractorforum.com
Then go to the section called "Lawn and Garden tractors by brand, and click on the John Deere Forum.
You will find the biggest group of JD GT enthusiasts and experts in the world there, and lots of help with questions, parts, troubleshooting, etc.

 

[mo2872]

Your first "tool" needs to be a membership in the forums at mytractorforum.com
Then go to the section called "Lawn and Garden tractors by brand, and click on the John Deere Forum.
You will find the biggest group of JD GT enthusiasts and experts in the world there, and lots of help with questions, parts, troubleshooting, etc.

This.

Indispensible site!

 

[John in OH]

I'm still up in the air about the narrow front. I agree that with the stock rear body, it wouldn't look good, but was thinking about not even using it and making some new custom rear fender covers. We will see.

Buening, you say to remove the positive cable from the solenoid, leaving it attached to the battery, and touch it to the starter post. The solenoid is grounded to the frame.

I agree with Displaced Hokie ... don't try to do a narrow front conversion. Since you are just getting into restoration work you would be taking on quite a task in making a front conversion. Changing the front end will require some free-hand design work, welding, machining, etc. And your end product will be a kinda funky looking tractor ... narrow front with fenderdeck. Plus, a narrow front reduces the stability of the tractor and may not be a good plan if you expect your son to be driving it (3-wheeled ATVs were made illegal for good reason).

You won't really need any special tools for this project other than the few mentioned already mentioned by others ... good set of hand tools (wrenches, sockets, etc.), lots of degreaser (or mineral spirits), sandpaper, etc.

That all being said ... I've always used any project that I ever worked on as an excuse to buy more tools!! Such opportunities should not be wasted!!

 

[JUSTA50]

Well, I bypassed the solenoid and I believe the starter is bad. Nothing. I'm going to just replace the solenoid, starter, coil, etc. I think you guys are right. I'm probably not going to do a narrow front on this one. I am also not going to use the stock rear body. Gonna come up with something custom.

 

[dadsEH]

Super cool project, my father in law's got an old Honda mower like this and every time we go out there I want to tear into it and see if I can get it going again. It's a really cool looking little thing.

I've never done a "tractor" but I've broken down a bunch of old motorcycles and the most indespensible tool you can have is an impact driver:

It will remove all kinds of bolts that you would destroy any other way. It's only really relevant for phillips heads though, I don't know if tractors have those.

WTF? you can put any socket you want on the end of it.

 

[vartz04]

There is nothing wrong with 3 wheeler's. Ive hurt myself (shoulder surgery) on a quadrant and got some road rash on a dirt bike but never had any damage from a trike and ive spent a lot of time on a trike

Go for the original restore Imo

 

[kruzin]

Let your ideas run wild...it's fun. Oh and a narrow front is doable and unique.

 

[mysta2]

WTF? you can put any socket you want on the end of it.

That's a good point, usually though hex head bolts have good enough grip to make the tool more or less moot. It's just those damn Philips (especially JIS) that want to self destruct if you look at them crooked.

 

[balane]

WTF? you can put any socket you want on the end of it.

Sockets don't cam out of the fastener like Phillips bits do. Although they can be used on any type of fastener, in several decades of use I can't recall using an impact driver on anything but a Phillips bit more than one or two times.

 

[mikester]

While you have everything apart, take some sandpaper and clean the glaze off of the variator hub and cone. My old 112 started to feel a little sluggish going up my hill and the mechanic at the JD dealer told me to try that first before I did anything else. It worked. Same you from doing it after its back together ! I love those old lawn tractors. Im pretty sure my old one is still running !

 

[JUSTA50]

Well, haven't posted progress in the last 2 weeks. Been tearing into the motor to get it running. Put on new starter, solenoid, points, condensor, coil, and ignition.

Come to find out I think the safety switches were the issue. She starts right up. Last night, continued with tear down taking the rims and tires off. Hope to pull motor this weekend. Ordered new rims and tires for front and back...
This is still a learn as you go project, but has been extremly fun for my son and I to take on.
I did notice it looked like the rear axle was leaking something, so may need to do a seal job. See below.

 

[buening]

I forgot all about the safety switches! Yeah should be one at the PTO lever and one at the shifter. They definitely will prevent it from starting!

 

[henrysgarage]

When I rebuild my JD lawn tractor I took the platform to a blast company and had them blast and epoxy paint and them finish up with JD green.
A site I use, they also have a site for lawn/ garden tractors from what I can remember. Have fun with this family adventure.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/index.php

 

[Bmacd95b]

Good luck on your rebuild! I bought my first JD this time last year - a '73 110. It's 39 years old and runs as great as the day it was built. I am not a mechanic, but bought two JDs with minor issues, and getting ready to flip them. While they were relatively simple fixes, parts from the JD will quickly add up. I'm wondering if I'm going to break even on the sale of the two new JDs I picked up.

 

[JUSTA50]

Buening, your correct. The trans safety switch was already bypassed. The PTO was behind the panel.

I've got an outdoor sand blaster/hopper I was going to try. If that doesn't work, might have to go find a blast co.

Bmacd95b, I am now looking for a round fender 100 or 110. That will be my next build. This is addictive.

 

[HD FLHX]

Buening, your correct. The trans safety switch was already bypassed. The PTO was behind the panel.

I've got an outdoor sand blaster/hopper I was going to try. If that doesn't work, might have to go find a blast co.

Bmacd95b, I am now looking for a round fender 100 or 110. That will be my next build. This is addictive.

Here's an original unmolested 64 110 I picked up this past winter. I'm planning on doing a full restoration in the near future.

 

[JUSTA50]

Boy, that thing looks like all it needs is a good cleaning and it's ready. Nice find.

 

[JohnFreeman]

I'm restoring a Cub Cadet Original from 1963. It sat in the woods for 10 years before I got it. It's now running (had to replace gears in the transmission, fix the generator, and on and on and on) .

Get a large container of PBblaster... that and patience are the most valuable tools in any project.

John

 

[JUSTA50]

Looks like fluid is leaking from behind the hub. I've got the tear down instructions for the reat of the rear end, but wonder how far into this I need to go to correct the leak. Accordig to drawings, it doesn't look like there are seals in that area. Only seal bearings? Anyone done one of these?

 

[camarotoolman]

Check out the nearest tractor show this summer. Usually lots of parts for sale and lots of free advice, thats all those exhibiters do is restore tractors. Sometimes they have those front tire kits for sale too.

 

[StarWolve]

I also have a JD210, from about the same time period. The Kohler K241 is a great little engine - and was also used in many other tractors from the same time period. Some of our Gravely's have the same motor.

I ended up with a spare motor for mine - only needed a coil (same as a small-block chevy) but got a great deal on the motor. I figure it's good to have at least one spare for the others. I also had some trouble getting the flywheel off, and since I have a few of these motors, I made a flywheel puller for them (my "universal" puller didn't have enough guts to get the job done).

I still need to put a new battery in mine, and then I need to find a replacement hood and front grill frame. My father hit a tree with it year ago, and it's not even close to straight. I'm going to use mine as a "yard tractor" - mainly for pulling a wagon to haul wood and brush. My 1975 Gravely is my primary mowing tractor - I haven't found a "new" tractor I like as much as my old 1970's models!

 

[Kevin54]

I would have thought some decent lifting gear would be in order as tractor parts can be ****** heavy!

The 210 is a Garden tractor, which by now I know that you have seen

IMHO,as this is your first project,I would suggest keeping it all original. This 210 will soon be a classic. When this resto is done,find another less classic JD to modify.
Have fun! and keep the pics coming.

Ditto on keeping it original. A JD brings good money restored as there are many collectors out there. And the ones that do collect like restored to original.

Well, haven't posted progress in the last 2 weeks. Been tearing into the motor to get it running. Put on new starter, solenoid, points, condensor, coil, and ignition.

Come to find out I think the safety switches were the issue. She starts right up. Last night, continued with tear down taking the rims and tires off. Hope to pull motor this weekend. Ordered new rims and tires for front and back...
This is still a learn as you go project, but has been extremly fun for my son and I to take on.
I did notice it looked like the rear axle was leaking something, so may need to do a seal job. See below.

Doing something like this with your son is a great project. You won't need a lot of tools to restore it, but if you THINK that you will, well...there is no crime in going out and buying new tools. Sign up to this site http://weekendfreedommachines.com/ If you get in a bind about something, someone there can surely help you out. You may also want to shop for some parts there. You can get them cheaper than the local John Deere Dealer.

Above all, have fun. Like I said, it's a great first project for you and your son to do together. Teach him how to do things right and explain why on everything. It's amazing what young minds retain. Who knows, it may be a good mold for him for the future.

Oh....and don't forget pictures for us