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Quincy Compressor Baldor motor noise level

71goldss

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Hi everyone,

I've been enjoying reading the comments from all members on this forum for some time now and finally decided to join in and ask a question.

Anyone out there have any experience with the operating noise level of Quincy compressor model # QT54 (2V41C60VC), especially the 5 hp Baldor motor in particular? Just purchased this compressor brand new based on 5 star reviews and all the great comments from forum members about Quincy compressors. Though I am very happy with my purchase, I have concerns that my Baldor motor is excessively loud and may have a problem. The motor is actually louder than the pump. My experience with air compressors is that the pump is generally the loudest item on the compressor, not the motor. Quincy's local service has looked at it and feels the motor's high 3450 rpm is the cause for the high whining hum of the motor that can be heard four to five houses away from my house while my garage door is open. Since being told by Quincy service that my motor is probably fine, I had the chance to hear a 10 hp 3450 rpm (same rpm as mine) Baldor motor that was operating an irrigation system at the school district where I work and it was very quiet! Now I am concerned about mine again! My 5 hp motor is single phase and the school district's 10 hp motor may have been 3 phase, so not sure if that would be a factor in the noise level difference?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated!!!
 
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Skin

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its all in the RPM. The 3600RPM Quincy compressors are far from quiet.
 
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71goldss

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I took the belt off and ran it when I first got it. Didn't make a difference in the noise that I was hearing , but I was still able rule out the pump. I used a "dry bearing sound" to describe it to Quincy over the phone, as that was the best way to describe, but it doesn't really have that dry metal on metal sound that I'm used to hearing with a dry bearing, but is still similar. Quincy's service man held the tip of screw driver up against the end of the case as though he was checking vibration or sound through it. Motor just doesn't sound right to me, but if there is a problem with it, wouldn't Baldor or Quincy have noticed during their production and testing process? Maybe they just wear ear protection all day for that task and aren't able to pick up on it?
 
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71goldss

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I only wish mine sounded like that! I don't even hear that motor! All I hear is your pump. My pump sounds similar to yours, but believe me, my motor over powers my pump noise by far! I can't tell in the picture, but is that a Baldor motor?

I'm gettin irritated!!!:mad:
 
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71goldss

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I just looked at other photos of that motor in your album and it's not a Baldor. Still, I can't believe there would be that major of a difference in sound between brands of motors.
 
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71goldss

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Here's most of what's on the Baldor label:

CAT. NO. - 1274661009
Spec - 19E010W026
HP - SPL
Volts - 230
AMPS - 21
RPM - 3450
FRAME - 56HZ
HZ - 60
PH - 1
Bearings - DE 6205

The Quincy service man said that the SPL in the hp box meant that Baldor did something special to this motor to make it do what Quincy wanted it to do for this compressor configuration. He didn't know what that would have been.
 

Canadian Cowboy

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Here's most of what's on the Baldor label:

CAT. NO. - 1274661009
Spec - 19E010W026
HP - SPL
Volts - 230
AMPS - 21
RPM - 3450
FRAME - 56HZ
HZ - 60
PH - 1
Bearings - DE 6205

The Quincy service man said that the SPL in the hp box meant that Baldor did something special to this motor to make it do what Quincy wanted it to do for this compressor configuration. He didn't know what that would have been.

SPL stamped in place of the motors actual HP rating on any electric motor means motor manufacturers or the motor buying company can fool the consumer into thinking the motor is a higher hp rating than what it really is.

http://www.wisedan.com/aircomp


CC
 
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71goldss

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SPL stamped in place of the motors actual HP rating on any electric motor means motor manufacturers or the motor buying company can fool the consumer into thinking the motor is a higher hp rating than what it really is.

http://www.wisedan.com/aircomp


CC

I am aware of the mass producing 120 volt compressor companies mis-representing hp ratings, but in this case I have a hard time believing that Quincy and Baldor would risk their highly regarded reputations on overating their products.
 

Canadian Cowboy

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I am aware of the mass producing 120 volt compressor companies mis-representing hp ratings, but in this case I have a hard time believing that Quincy and Baldor would risk their highly regarded reputations on overating their products.

Baldor motors normally stamp the HP rating as it is requirement by law but at the request of a outside company having Baldor build motors for them they build them to that company's specs.
They than stamp the SPL as it not built to the standard that is required in your case a true 5hp motor,it covers their ***.
A true Baldor compressor motor is 5hp at 1725 RPM not 3400 plus RPM.Here is a real Baldor compressor motor also it requires a mag starter box.
Specs,

blank.gif

AC Motors | Single Phase |
blank.gif

Specifications: L1410T
blank.gif

<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="1" width="350"><tbody><tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SPEC. NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">36M925W849G1</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">CATALOG NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">L1410T</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FL AMPS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">23</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">208V AMPS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">25</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">BEARING-DRIVE-END: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">6206</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">BEARING-OPP-DRIVE-END: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">6205</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">DESIGN CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">L</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">DOE-CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">--</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FL EFFICIENCY: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">82.5</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">ENCLOSURE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">OPEN</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FRAME: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">184T</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">HERTZ: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">60</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">INSULATION-CLASS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">F</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">KVA-CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">G</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SPEED [rpm]: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1725</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">OUTPUT [hp]: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">5</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">PHASE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">POWER-FACTOR: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">87</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">RATING: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">40C AMB-CONT</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SERIAL-NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">--</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SERVICE FACTOR: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1.15</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">VOLTAGE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">230</td></tr></tbody></table>


A000785.jpg




http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&catalog=L1410T&product=AC+Motors&family=Single+Phase|vw_ACMotors_SinglePhase&winding=36WGW849&rating=40CMB-CONT#

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_understanding_induction_motor/

http://www.google.ca/search?q=spl+o....,cf.osb&fp=f79f1491e123c8a1&biw=1366&bih=622

CC
 
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71goldss

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Baldor motors normally stamp the HP rating as it is requirement by law but at the request of a outside company having Baldor build motors for them they build them to that company's specs.
They than stamp the SPL as it not built to the standard that is required in your case a true 5hp motor,it covers their ***.
A true Baldor compressor motor is 5hp at 1725 RPM not 3400 plus RPM.Here is a real Baldor compressor motor also it requires a mag starter box.
Specs,

blank.gif

AC Motors | Single Phase |
blank.gif

Specifications: L1410T
blank.gif

<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="1" width="350"><tbody><tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SPEC. NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">36M925W849G1</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">CATALOG NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">L1410T</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FL AMPS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">23</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">208V AMPS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">25</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">BEARING-DRIVE-END: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">6206</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">BEARING-OPP-DRIVE-END: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">6205</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">DESIGN CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">L</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">DOE-CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">--</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FL EFFICIENCY: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">82.5</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">ENCLOSURE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">OPEN</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">FRAME: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">184T</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">HERTZ: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">60</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">INSULATION-CLASS: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">F</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">KVA-CODE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">G</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SPEED [rpm]: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1725</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">OUTPUT [hp]: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">5</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">PHASE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">POWER-FACTOR: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">87</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">RATING: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">40C AMB-CONT</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SERIAL-NUMBER: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">--</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#F2F2F2"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">SERVICE FACTOR: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">1.15</td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">VOLTAGE: </td> <td class="smalltext" valign="top">230</td></tr></tbody></table>


A000785.jpg




http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&catalog=L1410T&product=AC+Motors&family=Single+Phase|vw_ACMotors_SinglePhase&winding=36WGW849&rating=40CMB-CONT#

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_understanding_induction_motor/

http://www.google.ca/search?q=spl+o....,cf.osb&fp=f79f1491e123c8a1&biw=1366&bih=622

CC

Not to get too far off of my original motor sound level topic, but is there a way to calculate a closely approximate of the hp of my motor based on the Baldor label specs? amps/volts???
 
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71goldss

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I just Googled the formula and it says to times the watts by .00134. Comes out pretty close to the same at 6.47 hp. Pretty cool!
 
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71goldss

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It would still be great to hear from members that have this exact Quincy compressor or Baldor motor and what they sound like. I'd really appreciate it!
 

Provincial

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I just Googled the formula and it says to times the watts by .00134. Comes out pretty close to the same at 6.47 hp. Pretty cool!

You also have to multiply it by the power factor, which will be about .80 in this case, resulting in a hp rating of 5.18.
 

jeb42

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I just bought one sunday from Northern Tool and did not think it was very loud. My wife did, and said I was Too Hard of hearing to have a valid opinion of its sound level. I Think it is a lot quieter than our 30 year old Champion at work and am very happy with its performance and sound level.
 
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71goldss

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You also have to multiply it by the power factor, which will be about .80 in this case, resulting in a hp rating of 5.18.

I knew there must be more to the equation! Still good to know that I'm still in the 5 hp range. Just curious, what is "power factor" and how did you come up with .80?
 
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71goldss

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I just bought one sunday from Northern Tool and did not think it was very loud. My wife did, and said I was Too Hard of hearing to have a valid opinion of its sound level. I Think it is a lot quieter than our 30 year old Champion at work and am very happy with its performance and sound level.

I think my girlfriend is more annoyed by the noise of mine than I am. I'm more concerned about a possible problem with the motor. I've found a way to greatly reduce the overall noise, while still keeping it inside the garage.

Got mine at Northern Tool also. Bought it in February just before their sale price of $1299.99 ended. That price was hard to beat! I just saw a couple of days ago that the $1299.99 with free shipping price is back on again right now.
 

bsaint

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I use Solberg filter and housing on my emglo and you can hear the air whooshing into the check valve over the inlet noise or tank knock.

Like someone said, run it without the belt and see if the motor is noise or if there is excessive shaft play.
 
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71goldss

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I use Solberg filter and housing on my emglo and you can hear the air whooshing into the check valve over the inlet noise or tank knock.

Like someone said, run it without the belt and see if the motor is noise or if there is excessive shaft play.

I ran it without the belt when I first got it and noise in question was still there. Not sure about the shaft play, but I think Quincy's service tech checked that when he came and looked at it. Though he is still officially a tech, he has been in the office for a few years now and just came to hear my compressor as a good gesture since he lives in my area. He really wasn't that familiar with my particular model, but still felt that the motor rpm was the source of the high noise level.
 

jb3179

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I hope this wasnt already said since I didnt read all posts to this thread, but here goes. a properly functioning single phase motor shouldnt make more noise than a 3 phase motor. the first check is the bearings. iff they feel smooth when you turn the motor by had and the internal overload device isnt kicking the motor out then they are probally ok. most likey there is a problem with the start winding switch. if the start winding isnt opening up after the motor reaches 75% of operating speed it will cause the motor to sound awful. you must remove the rear cover of the motor and check the certerfugally operated contacts to make sure they are opening. also if the motor is equiped with a start capacitor that must be checked for the proper rating and if it is the right size for the motor then you need to see if it is still in operating range of its MFD rating. Prolonged running with a start winding problem will burn up the motor. The 56 frame higher hp motors are very junky
 
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71goldss

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I hope this wasnt already said since I didnt read all posts to this thread, but here goes. a properly functioning single phase motor shouldnt make more noise than a 3 phase motor. the first check is the bearings. iff they feel smooth when you turn the motor by had and the internal overload device isnt kicking the motor out then they are probally ok. most likey there is a problem with the start winding switch. if the start winding isnt opening up after the motor reaches 75% of operating speed it will cause the motor to sound awful. you must remove the rear cover of the motor and check the certerfugally operated contacts to make sure they are opening. also if the motor is equiped with a start capacitor that must be checked for the proper rating and if it is the right size for the motor then you need to see if it is still in operating range of its MFD rating. Prolonged running with a start winding problem will burn up the motor. The 56 frame higher hp motors are very junky

Thanks for the info. One thing that I've recently noticed while compairing photos of my Baldor motor to other Baldor motors, is that mine has many ventilation openings in the side of the case, not just the end covers, and I'm wondering if this more open case design would contribute to the noise level?
 

shannonw

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You have the same motor as me, I picked/found one new to put on my IR:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148529

My whole setup is more quiet now that I got the right pulley on it DOH! and put some 90's on the intake...i'd say the motor is still the loudest...it's a 3500 rpm motor i don't think any of those are quiet. Also when i had the wrong pully it was noticably a bit louder from the load.
 

shannonw

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May want to put an amp meter on yours, check to see if it's pulling in spec (as i discovered mine wasn't...thanks to larry_g for the quick spot on my thread).
 
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71goldss

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May want to put an amp meter on yours, check to see if it's pulling in spec (as i discovered mine wasn't...thanks to larry_g for the quick spot on my thread).

Thanks, Quincy's tech clamped his amp meter on each cable while running. Said everything checked out good.
 

shannonw

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not having the same compressor i can tell you i was a few feet outside my garage the other day (and my garage is all concrete block, no sound absorbtion) and was pleasently pleased at the sound level...even my neighbor came over and thought it seemed quiet (relatively speaking here...it's no 1750 rpm compressor that's for sure), you could hear it though but not obnoxiously loud like the oiless or small jobsite like i had. I'm sure it's around 80db a few feet away as others have measured.

I'm not sure it could be heard 4 or 5 houses down it would be pretty faint if it could.

When i got my compressor i was curious of the sound level, found some vids on ebay, web, and someone here. This is exactly what mine sounds like now with the baldor even:


Pump *seems* a bit quieter now that I added some 90's to the intake.
 
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71goldss

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Thanks again shannonw! I listened to the youtube videos and I would say that my motor is still much louder. I've yet to hear a motor that sounds like mine. Either in tone or sound level. I know high rpm is a big factor in the sound, but no other 3450 rpm motor that I've heard sounds like mine. Quincy's main office feels it's probably normal and their local Quincy tech that come and looked at it feels that it is "probably" normal. I talked to a local electric motor repair shop by phone and was told that it should run quiet. They said they will test it for free if I want to take it off and bring it to them. They want $127.00 to come to my home to check. It's brand new and under warranty, but Quincy feels it's probably normal. STUMPED:lol_hitti
 

shannonw

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Your probably got one like my pool pump motor i replaced a couple years ago, i'm the only one who seems to hear a sound it makes at a high pitch lol

had the dealer guy come out i bought it from, he's like it all's normal, ask the wife and neighbors do you hear that? they're like hear what. I'm like OMG it's plain as freaking day the old one didn't make that pitch!!

...took a year for me to not notice it.
 
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71goldss

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Reminds me of a former co-worker of mine. Claimed he could here the hum of the computer monitor while it was on. Drove him nuts!!! Always asking me, "you can't here that!"

Anyway, I may just pull the motor off and take it to that repair shop to check out. I'm just concerned that I won't be able to remove without cutting wire connections. Haven't checked it out yet, but hopefully it's just screw down connectors for a simple disconnect. I don't want it to look tampered with while under warranty.
 

jb3179

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Electric motors of this size alone should not in any way be loud when running. You should unhook the belt and run it for the baldor tech people over the phone. they will be much more helpful than the quincy folks. I have worked with baldor before on warranty items. you can probally deal directly with them or a service center of theirs in your area. Do it soon before the out of hase condition worsens and damages your motor. (yes single phase motors can suffer from out of phase conditions, the capacitors move the sine waves around so that the start winding and the main winding are up to 90deg out of phase to induce rotation.
 
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