1966 chevy how to lower it?

[Rodhotz]

Rear end from '73-up isn't a bolt-in.
'60-'72 is the trailing arm/coil spring rear end with a panhard bar locator.
'73-up is leaf spring.

I THINK, but am not sure, you can simply swap the axles and the brake drums to the early housings. (except '60-'63)
-Brad

True Brad, but with a few hours and a torch and welder the original brackets can be put on the late model rear. much easier than doing a frame swap. My 64 like his is a heavy duty 3/4 ton and i have been measuring up a 74 1 ton front i have for a possible swap. got a dually rear i may play with also. everybody wants me to put 1/2 ton running gear under it but it is my daily and i plan to do a lot of towing with it since i sold my dodge diesel. I have a 12 valve laying around, i was kicking the idea around of putting it in the truck, but i think i am going to use it in my 36 dodge brothers duce and a half car hauler i am going to build.

 

[Sgreve32x]

Nope.
I simply installed lowering springs in the back and shims to correct the pinion angle, and cranked down the torsion bars ('61 Suburban) and took it to an alignment shop.

Well... I actually had my 15 year old son and his friend do those things the day before we drove 1500 miles to The Hunnert Car Pileup in Illinois...

It took them 45 minutes start-to-finish... and that included putting the tools away, so I'm guessing you wouldn't be interested in my build methods.

Makes MUCH more sense to completely disassemble the vehicle, cut up the frame, weld it all back together, redo the floors and all the rest, to get it a few inches lower than stock.

-Brad

Well, I will consult with you before I do anything else to my project. Just to make sure it is right.

Like I said, To each their own. Your method of lowering a vehicle will work. I never said it wouldnt. Im stating the way I would do it to get the look I like in a vehicle and giving the guy another route of lowering if he wants too. If chopping the frame is such a horrible and time consuming hassle, why do so many people do it then?

To each their own.

 

[bob15]

guess my truck is trash, no way possible i could drive this thing right??
To the OP, give me the truck and in a few short months it will be almost as low as my burban Thats the body style truck i'm looking for for my next project. i just want a fleetside but i can overlook that

Personally, I think your and all others lowered like it, are pointless. I also think they are ugly as sin. What good it it? How is going over speed bumps or into a steep driveway? Cannot do any work with it......

To the OP, keep the truck the way it is. I wish I could have my '67 Chevy stepside back, but I can't. Leave it stock height and fix it up. You can then show it off and also use it if needed.

bob

 

[ChristopherLutz]

wow - way to help the OP guys....

OP - GM sold two versions of that truck in 64-66 model years. One had leaf spring rears and the other had trailing arms. Some think this is a GMC/Chevrolet split...but, the truth is they could be optioned either way from either company.

A couple more facts: your truck has a "rake" - the rear is (or should be) higher than the front / by about 2''. You'll most commonly see lowering kits that eliminate the rake called, "4/6" or the "3/5" - Most are designed to get the truck to the same ride height front and rear.

You have several "good" options and a number of "bad" options. The "bad" include modifying the existing parts through heating and/or cutting.

Realistically, if your truck has stock parts - the springs need to be replaced anyway - they don't last forever.

The comments on suspension geometry are good ones - it's best to avoid changing that unless you want to constantly tinker with issues like alignment, tire wear and ride quality.

I would come up with a plan, because (BELIEVE ME - I just sold a 65 in parts) the projects have a domino effect.

Before you get started....what are your brake plans?

If you have the original single pot manual brake set-up, you'll probably want to do something a little different...just for safety sake. You'll need to switch master cylinders if you switch to disc. Disc and Drum use different pressures and the MC needs to be specific to that.

Back to the original question: If it were me,

I'd plan to use new spindles (suspension geometry remains fine) and convert to disc brakes (at least for the front)

Here's a tip - you can use STOCK (meaning from O'Reilly's or Autozone) 73 (and up) disc brake parts for the new spindles. This will save you loads of money.

PM me if you want more specifics - your "best" option will be defined by your desired end state.

Good Luck.

 

[Kevin54]

To all the naysayers out there, if a vehicle is lowered the correct way it will make a better riding vehicle than what it was from the factory. The bad thing is, most lower a vehicle the wrong way. Lowering the center of gravity of the vehicle will let it hug the road, hold on to the corners, better than stock.

Cutting the springs is not the correct way to do it though. The next step from that are the lowered spindles, flipping the rear axle, then you can go up to the next which are frame modifications to get it lower. After that you have the air ride suspension that lets you alter the ride height.

I'm not a fan of body dropped and radical frame modifications of the vehicles. I am a fan of lowered vehicles though as with Air Ride Suspension. Ridetech makes lowering a vehicle fairly easy, but in doing it right, it also comes with a price. Quite a few don't want to shell out a few grand to lower a vehicle correctly so you start seeing the hack jobs driving around. If you lower one, do it right or at least half right. Use dropped spindles, lowering springs that have the correct spring ratings, flipped shackles. Don't heat a spring completely to get your drop. If you do, it continues to drop over time until you have something so harsh of a ride that there is no enjoyment in driving it any longer

 

[Sgreve32x]

Alot of it when it comes to lowering vehicles is the actual style you are looking for. Some are good lowered. Some arent. The Buick pictured above looks pretty dang sweet looking in my eyes. But that newer suburban just looks awful to me. The 2 trucks I have lowered and chopped the frames are rat rods where I dont run a hood or front fenders. It comes down to what the OP wants the truck to look like. I think the way it sits now looks pretty sweet but I also would like to see it lowered.

To the OP. Either way you do it, You have a pretty sweet chev there.

 

[Brad54]

True Brad, but with a few hours and a torch and welder the original brackets can be put on the late model rear. much easier than doing a frame swap. My 64 like his is a heavy duty 3/4 ton and i have been measuring up a 74 1 ton front i have for a possible swap. got a dually rear i may play with also. everybody wants me to put 1/2 ton running gear under it but it is my daily and i plan to do a lot of towing with it since i sold my dodge diesel. I have a 12 valve laying around, i was kicking the idea around of putting it in the truck, but i think i am going to use it in my 36 dodge brothers duce and a half car hauler i am going to build.

That sounds like a bitchin' project!
I'd love a '60-'66 3/4-ton or 1-ton dually.

Actually, my dream truck is a '63-66 1-ton panel, with dual rear wheels and step side fenders harrowed and contoured to the panel sides.
And since I'm dreamin', I'd install a pair of doors behind the front doors for rear passengers, and I'd keep the back of the cargo area windowless for security... 4-door panel truck, with glass in the doors but none farther back.

-Brad

 

[Shadowdog500]

That truck sits nice the way it is. Leave it alone.

Chris

 

[Brad54]

Well, I will consult with you before I do anything else to my project. Just to make sure it is right.

Like I said, To each their own. Your method of lowering a vehicle will work. I never said it wouldnt. Im stating the way I would do it to get the look I like in a vehicle and giving the guy another route of lowering if he wants too. If chopping the frame is such a horrible and time consuming hassle, why do so many people do it then?

To each their own.

It's not.
But if you read the OP's question, he's asking for a simple, affordable solution. He didn't ask how to lay frame and install airbags. He asked how to lower the vehicle a little with cut springs.
I gave him that solution.
You told him to do a ground-up build.
You told him what YOU would do to the the look YOU like in a vehicle. You didn't give him advise to make the truck look like HE wanted.

-Brad

 

[e30bradley]

fill the bed with rocks. or take the wheels off

 

[Rodhotz]

Alot of it when it comes to lowering vehicles is the actual style you are looking for. Some are good lowered. Some arent. The Buick pictured above looks pretty dang sweet looking in my eyes. But that newer suburban just looks awful to me. The 2 trucks I have lowered and chopped the frames are rat rods where I dont run a hood or front fenders. It comes down to what the OP wants the truck to look like. I think the way it sits now looks pretty sweet but I also would like to see it lowered.

To the OP. Either way you do it, You have a pretty sweet chev there.

Explain to us just what is a Rat Rod? Some half azzed, thrown together from whatever you can find, rusty, crusty, nasty vague resemblance of a vehicle? That is what comes to my mind.

 

[38Chevy454]

Well, so many opinions. Here is my take as a metallurgical engr, don't heat the coils to lower it down. That ruins the springs. It will ride like **** if you do this and the springs will be all crooked. They can even develop cracks and fail. Just bad method all the way around

The best way is to use drop spindles, and new shorter springs if going lower than the couple inches the spindles provide. This also typically gives disc brakes which is a good improvement. More work though as it involves brake system upgrades and also potential rearend bolt pattern changeover.

In your case, I would recommend chopping a coil or more off the front springs. I have lowered many vehicles by cutting coils (I personally use a cut-off wheel) without any problems. Yes it does increase the stiffness, by a proportional amoutn to the reduction in coils. Say the stock spring is 10 coils and you remove 1.5, the spring stiffness goes up by 15%. Most lowered vehicles this is beneficial. You may need to trim the bump stops a bit for extra travel. Just rubber and you can cut it shorter. This is no caost except labor and as long as you keep the coil cutting to 2 coils or less, the geometry will not ba too far off. It will have no reliability issues.

One easy entire suspension upgrade is to use the front susp assy out of a 73-87 truck. They unbolt from the donor and you unbolt your orig 66 assy. Many of the holes line up and you only need to drill a couple holes. Bolt it all up. The upgrade gives disc brakes, sway bars, P/S, ultra cheap susp parts and aftermarket parts for whatever you want (drop spindles, big brakes, etc). This does change your bolt pattern to the newer 5 lug and you will have to change the rearend bolt pattern to match. There may be a 6-lug front rotor that will work with the newer 73-87 spiondles, but I am not aware of any off top of my head.

The rearend on your truck has the pigtailed coils and you must buy new shorter ones. Or if leaf springs, you can get your stock springs dearched or new less arch springs. Flipping the rearend on top of the leafs will give a lot of drop, but you need to be able to weld the new pads on the axle. Pay attention to pinion angle. Flipped rearend is around 5-6 inches of drop depending on your stock spring pack thickness.

 

[Richard D]

You may be in the wrong forum talking about custom vehicles. To most people, cars are merely transportation, and trucks are trucks-only good for carrying plywood and 2x4s from the lumberyard. Lowered and otherwise customized trucks can do that too, but look cool while doing it. I can go over speed bumps without really slowing down, you just gotta drive it like a car instead of like a truck. But you can still haul stuff, just not as much, unless you have airbags in the rear.

 

[xtremek]

As I see it, there are 3 options available. I've used the "Blue Flame" drop on many vehicles(always cutting the coils and never drooping them) and never had any real issues. I put about 100k on more than one "Hot" drop. Not the best way for the reasons mentioned, but definitely liveable if you don't go to far, 1"-1 1/2". Best way is buy a kit from a reputable company, Belltech, Hotchkiss, DJM...etc. The last option takes patience and luck. Buying used. I got my drop kit used from eBay. It's a 4"-6" DJM drop and it's been on my truck for 8 years and I've got over 100k on the drop. The issues are obvious, do you get a drop that some knuckle dragger abused(don't buy mine, it is) and do you want to take the time? It took me about 14 months of checking eBay and CL daily to finally find mine. It depends on what you're willing to sacrifice.

 

[mad57]

Thanks for all the info, I do really enjoy the new to me truck and the last thing i needed was ANOTHER project, but its so damn tough looking i couldnt pass it up I was looking for a cheap way to lower this truck, its not going to be an every day truck, maybe some runs to the dump or local auction (about an hour) some cruise nights ect, i do need diffrent rims as mentioned the off set is not gonna work when lowered, good eye. Cutting the fronts and buying new rear springs will be the way i go. im looking to drop it about 3in even. I would love disc brakes... but im still tinkering with the 57 chevy and that gets priority. Again thks for all the advice. ill post pics when done.

 

[Sgreve32x]

Explain to us just what is a Rat Rod? Some half azzed, thrown together from whatever you can find, rusty, crusty, nasty vague resemblance of a vehicle? That is what comes to my mind.

Lol.

 

[Rodhotz]

Lol.

By the way is that your truck in your avatar? if so why is it fueling so hard, need a little more turbo maybe!

 

[Sgreve32x]

By the way is that your truck in your avatar? if so why is it fueling so hard, need a little more turbo maybe!

Lol.