Any good tips/tricks working with aluminum?

[V-10 Killer]

Seems like I'm always trying to do little projects around the house and on the car using aluminum. But my projects don't ever come out as clean as I imagine when I start. Granted I don't own a lathe or mill, but there's got to be some good tips and tricks of the trade working on aluminum? At this point, it doesn't even matter what they are, if you have one, could you share it with me? I know we have some seriously talented machinists on this site, and there's a ton of knowledge out there.

I mean for miscellaneous stuff like working with square or round tubing, bar stock, sheet stock, etc.

What are good cutting tools, grinding tools, how do you keep it from gumming up your cutters on non-industrial equipment...
Good websites to check out?
Handy tricks on notching tubing, anything you got.

I'm looking forward to learing, as I'll be picking up a good welder, practicing a lot, and fabbing a lot more (turbo/piping) on the hotrod over the next year.
And a little research ahead of time is always a good thing

 

[RECox286]

Aluminium is tough to grind or file, b/c it is too soft and just loads the wheel or

file to the point of ruination. I try to stay away from it as much as possible.

Also, thinking out loud, while I'm at it, it is pretty tough to 'stick weld'. It just

plain wants to melt, period.

Uncle Bob

 

[pop pop]

30 years + in the aluminum business and all I can tell you is that almost anything that you can do in ferrous metal can be done in aluminum. But the process can be daunting. I don't know that anything is there, but check the websites of major aluminum companies, ie Alcoa. There are lots of alloys and tempers that will work differently. Welding needs a gas cover. Cutting tools need a negative angle, etc.

 

[geologist]

There's a guy on here that loves aluminum. He's got a workshop called Aerodrome Studio or something like that. I cant remember his username at the moment (using a phone to type this) but he's a pretty active member and has turned out some pretty interesting stuff. Might try a quick search for him.

 

[johno]

Fill files or rotary tools with wax, often , helps keep them from loading up with aluminum.
There are aluminum specefic files, I don't own a set so can't comment on them.

 

[V-10 Killer]

Good info guys, thanks

 

[Jack Olsen]

Here's a tip: most woodworking equipment will also work on aluminum. Depending on the thickness of course, your jig saw, table saw, band saw or circular saw will all make pretty clean cuts in the stuff (standard disclaimers: it's not exactly the same as wood, kickback needs to be anticipated differently, just be careful). Cutting tools that use abrasive blades will not work with it very well.

And here's a trick to make a nice finished shape. Cut a model of the piece in plywood, cut a slightly-oversized version of the aluminum piece, and then use a router to do the final cut, with the wood as a guide. That might not be a very clear explanation of what I mean, but this video will clear it up:

This thread has more discussion of the video.

This thread has my less-craftsmanlike application of the same idea.

 

[Agent1320]

You can buy tubes of wax for cutting. Just lube up the cutting blade before cutting and the buildup will stick to the wax, not the teeth. We used it when I worked at a sign fab shop. I don't do alot of aluminum fab at home, but I use a bar of soap on the cutting blade of my jig saw when I do need to cut a piece of aluminum. Works just like the wax.

 

[larry_g]

First to learn is what you are working with. There are as many alloys of Al as there are of plastic. Different ones take different approaches in how you work them.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[EVOLVO]

The U tube that Jack posted is really interesting. Notice that the router is running at very high speed and that the aluminum is being "climb milled". That is, looking down from above the router is spinning clockwise and the work is being fed left to right. The bit is trying to "climb". Very important when machining aluminum.

Here's another trick. When your using a jig saw to cut a shape out of a piece of material, aluminum, steel or wood, don't hang the work off the end of the bench in midair where it is likely to vibrate. Get a 2' X 2' piece of 2" thick hard styrofoam house insulation and lay the workpiece on that. You can easily hold the work piece in place with your off saw hand and the jig saw doesn't even know the foam is there. Works especially well for cutting small tabs and brackets.

One more. If you need to bend a piece of aluminum, up to 1/4", you can anneal it with an oxy/acetylene torch with a rosebud. Fire up the torch with a heavy sooty flame (that's the easy part). Apply this flame to the aluminum along the line you want to anneal so it's sooty. Now adjust the flame good and hot and from a distance of 12" to 16" away slowly heat the aluminum until the soot is burned off and let it cool. The aluminum is now annealed and can be bent without cracking (usually, you still have to be gentle).

 

[kmacht]

Forget the wax, chalk your file. It works much better on aluminum. I find a vixen style file works the best for removing large ammounts of metal.

For polishing and finishing edges get a scotchbrite deburring wheel for your bench grinder

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/scotchdeburrwheel.php

For cutting sheet stock don't use those sheetmetal tools they sell in the gutter section of home depot. Get a good decent quality set of Wiss snips. The good quality ones won't leave ridges in your metal when you cut.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/actionsnips.php

For long straight cuts in aluminum sheet you can actually score and snap it. Use a vinyl floor scoring blade in your utility knife to make the cut line. A few passes and then hold the cut line over the edge of your bench while pushing down on the part you are cutting off. It will snap right off but be carefull, the edge will be extra sharp and should be filed.

As mentioned earlier, alot of woodworking tools can be used when working with aluminum.

For all sorts of other aluminum tips search google for "metal experimental aircraft". You will find tons of information out there. Also check out the "EAA hints for homebuilders" website. Lots of short how to videos.

Keith

 

[DCarr]

If it hasnt been said, hit your grinding wheel with a bar of hand soap every so often and it wont clog up.

Grind a bit and then let the piece cool down, Alum. will get gummy when hot.

With rotary burrs, dip them in Auto Trans Fluid and keep them wet w/ it. Its messy but it works great.

 

[zuk123]

Use sanding disks or wheels instead of grinding wheels. If you have to use grinding wheels, soaking them in old motor oil will keep them from gumming up. It will also make a horrific mess, so it is best used for big rough cuts.

If you will be welding it, it must be clean. Super clean. All the oxidation removed. There are special cleaning fluids to use if you want, and they work great on bigger stuff. On occasional stuff, I clean with alcohol and a clean rag, sand,file, or wire brush lightly, then weld immediately.

Don't mix sanding wheels, wire brushes, etc between steel and aluminum... the steel will contaminate the weld. I mark a set with sharpie to keep them separate.

Aluminum dust can combine with steel, and if ignited can cause an intense fire. Most shops use separate tools to keep the dust separate. (google thermite reaction.)

Different alloys weld differently. Ask your welding supplier about fillers. Some are much easier to work with if you aren't doing aerospace type work

As mentioned, beeswax on the blade will help when cutting.

The welding arc is very bright. I like to use a darker setting on my shield when doing aluminum. With a mig gun, direction of travel and polarity settings are different too. Again, ask your welding supplier for recommendations.

When cutting, the chips will get everywhere. Don't be surprised to find them in your underwear!

There is a guy on Youtube that demonstrates gas welding aluminum sheet with flux. Very cool, and quiet. Might be a fun thing to play around with if you have a torch set. (www.tinmantech.com)

Like any skilled task, surface preparation, and practice make all the difference.

Good luck!

zuk

 

[abbeylives]

I've been cutting aluminum piping on a vertical bandsaw and have trouble keeping the piping from rolling back. What do you guys use to cut aluminum piping? Also what about cutting pie cuts? Pie cuts have proven really difficult on bandsaw.

 

[V-10 Killer]

This info is all tremendously useful. I wish I'd known it 10 years ago, oh the bits and grinding wheels I could have saved!!

 

[Kevin54]

I've been cutting aluminum piping on a vertical bandsaw and have trouble keeping the piping from rolling back. What do you guys use to cut aluminum piping? Also what about cutting pie cuts? Pie cuts have proven really difficult on bandsaw.

Throw a clamp on the bar and it won't spin on you. I have a small vise at work that I clamp around a round bar to keep it from spinning, but you can use vice grips or about any type of clamp.

 

[gloveman132]

I've been cutting aluminum piping on a vertical bandsaw and have trouble keeping the piping from rolling back. What do you guys use to cut aluminum piping? Also what about cutting pie cuts? Pie cuts have proven really difficult on bandsaw.

I use a piece of 2X4 and two clamps. Clamp the tube to the 2X4 and cut.

Or, sometimes I use a drill press vise. Clamp the tube in the vise and make your cut.

Basically, look for ways to make your round stock square.

 

[pop pop]

Second pass at this post I remember an interesting tid bit. We used to fabricate buss work that would be 12" x 30" We cut it with a chain saw in the field. In the shop it was cut by a 400 HP cut off with a 60" blade.

 

[t100]

know what you have and what you need.

there are many many different aluminum alloy types. some are weldabble, some not. some you can bend, some not. some you can machine, some not.

aircraftspruse has a free catalog you can order. it's an awesome reference book. again, it's free.

 

[454ragtop]

You shouldn't use a grinding wheel on aluminium, no matter how you treat it. If it doesn't spark, it shouldn't be ground. Sanders work much better. I have an aluminium file, much coarser than a reg file, works pretty well, I put a bright yellow handle on it so as not to confuse with other files.
HTH, Jim

 

[willy3486]

I have a vintage delta scroll saw that cuts really good. I wanted a center piece for a screen door protector I had so I found the RCA emblem online. I printed it out and used some of the 3m headliner glue and sprayed the back of the emblem I printed out. I then laid it on a piece of a aluminum that was a cover to a tube organ control board a guy gave me. I then trimmed the aluminum with tin snips of the outside of the emblem leaving some to get closer with the scroll saw. I then drilled holes in the areas of the letters and inside of the emblem. I then used some bandsaw blades I broke in shorter lengths to fit the scroll saw. Here is a picture with one of the copies from a laser printer, the actual piece of aluminum after I had trimmed some and the screen protector below everything.

Like Jack Olsen said aluminum cuts really good in woodworking tools. It didn't take too awful long to cut out. I cut most of it out in the afternoons after work. I would go out in my shop and cut some on it for 5 or 10 minutes. I was able to get it done in just a few days. To get the paper that is glued on I just used my heat gun to loosen the paper and it peeled right off. It works really good to glue the paper with the 3m glue. It didn't rip the paper pattern off as I was cutting it. It fit my homemade "country store" screen door perfect. It keeps our cats we have to control mice from scratching the screen. I went with the RCA emblem since I am setting up my shop like a old TV/radio shop. Here it is mounted in the door.