zoomieport
Well-known member
It's the vise version of face huggers and xenomorphs. You just need a 200#'er to portray the Queen.
That would be my Morgan collection...

It's the vise version of face huggers and xenomorphs. You just need a 200#'er to portray the Queen.

ZoomOK, THIS IS IT with the Bullets mounted on PowRArms... I promise.
2"
2-1/2"
3'
4"
Got this for my birthday from my dad. Can anybody tell me anything about it? good or bad? I am wire wheeling it now, whats the procedure for re-painting these things?
The reason I'd braize that and not use nickle rod, is to get the filler completely through the crack, top to bottom.
Basic steps:
Clean the dynamic jaw completely. Then find the very end of the crack preferably from both sides. Where it stops drill a hole from one side to the other which removes the stress riser the crack end is, and provide a space to fill. You mav need to drill at an angle to accomplish this.
Personally I'd start de-rusting with Electrolysis; then use full strength Jasco metal etch (phosphoric acid) in the crack in particular to remove anything else.
Preheat the jaw at 500 degrees in an oven, and for something that big, do it for about 2 hours. while that is going on, get a BIG bucket of dry sand and heat that up as well; as hot as you can manage. Steel bucket and a good camp stove, or a deep fryer propane burner will do a good job.
Once pre heated, get to brazeing, flowing the rod into the crack from the top while you heat from the bottom. Fill it completely, Then bury the jaw in the hot sand to cool slowly. something that big, I'd let it set all day or overnight depending on when you did the deed.
Once cooled you can take a flat file to the top to smooth out any braize material left on the top surface.
Why not ni-rod and an arc welder? Unless you grind a deep vee into both sides you aren't going to get all that deep into a part that thick, and you are more likely to end up with the welded end with some warpage; and have a lot more cleanup to do afterward. There is no real stress on that section so all you need to do is stableize the crack, and a proper drill and braize job will do that and clean up easy, and all that should show is a thin line of brass and the filled stop hole.
Why the pre heat? Cast is funny stuff and without a good preheat and slow cool down, it moves a lot and will actually heatsink the heat out of the welded area and can fracture as it cools. I've see cold welded cracks simply break away from one side or the other on an arc welded cast piece when welded cold.
Zoom
Wow, that photo will never be duplicated again. That one is awsome for this vise thread.
Mikelikes...Your dad got you a good one.
Mr. OneTwo. Can't go wrong for $75
Thanks for that informative post. I see you mentioned that area of the crack has no real stress. That was my first thought when I originally saw the picture, which made me wonder how that crack would develop in the first place.
Any thoughts on how that might have happened?
Got this for my birthday from my dad. Can anybody tell me anything about it? good or bad? I am wire wheeling it now, whats the procedure for re-painting these things?
OK, THIS IS IT with the Bullets mounted on PowRArms... I promise.
2"
2-1/2"
3'
4"
heres one you don't every day. i thinks its a pattern makers/ wook worker vise. the jaws are 18" across and it will open up to about 20". Made by emmer waynesboro , pa. It also tilts and rotates. says pattern maker on it too.
I just finished this Paramo No.5, looks a lot like your Record, (same company at one time I believe). It's seems like a really solid and well-built vise.
.heres one you don't every day. i thinks its a pattern makers/ wook worker vise. the jaws are 18" across and it will open up to about 20". Made by emmer waynesboro , pa. It also tilts and rotates. says pattern maker on it too.

That's a good looking vice. If you decide you do want a new set of jaws you can get them at Acklands-Grainger for about $35 (screws included). Reparding paint, I have had good luck with Valspar blue aerosal from Lowe's for my Records. It's hard to tell from the photo but has the lubrication hole been welded shut?Got sniped out of an ebay find this week so bit the bullet on a Record #5 vise I had been keeping an eye on through Kijiji. In pretty good shape overall, Jaws aren't bad and the screw is pretty good. This one is next in line for restoration.
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That's a good looking vice. If you decide you do want a new set of jaws you can get them at Acklands-Grainger for about $35 (screws included). Reparding paint, I have had good luck with Valspar blue aerosal from Lowe's for my Records. It's hard to tell from the photo but has the lubrication hole been welded shut?
IMO, abuse plain and simple. someone may have been using the end out there as an anvil to flatten things out...
While this post isn't about a Vise, it is about vise accessories! Once upon a Time there was a young lad (hey...it's my story and in it I am a young lad) and he was scanning Ebay late one night. It might have been a dark and stormy night...I don't remember. He came upon an auction with the title "Prentiss" in it. That caught the lad's attention like a free **** site. However, he could not identify what in the Wide Wide World of Sports, the auction items were. They had Prentiss stamped on them but no description of what they were or did. The Lad dashed off a carrier pigeon to Sir Autopts and said "Dear Sir....WTF is this auction?" His answer was "Buy it and if you win, I will tell you." I did...and he did. So here is a set of Prentiss Pipe Jaw Attachments for a 4" vise.
Craig
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If my neighbor had a Reed vise in his garage, he would be my new best friend. Heck, if Autopts had a Reed in his basement, I would be his best buddy. Instead all he has is 90% of the world's supply of Wiltons. Therefore I remain his nemesis.
Craig
I'm going to be finishing cleaning up a Morgan Chicago 35 in the next few days that I'm going to be throwing in the trade section since I already have a vise and this one is too small.

I take pride in the fact that most all my tools are made in the USA. I went out into my garage to inspect my wilton vise thats fairly new, I was very dissapointed to find it was a chinese modelSo today at work I took a look around. Up until a week ago I never paid attention to the vises around my work until I read this thread. Apparently my work is a goldmine for old columbian and wilton vises. I found an old columbian vise that was broken and asked the boss what he wanted for it. He told me if I can fix it, I can have it
So tell me guys, do I have a diamond in the rough? Coulumbian 604 1/2 M3
Everything is nice and tight, but when you loosen the vise it pushes the nut out the back of the vise.

How is it that I just finish restoring my first vise and I find myself browsing CL looking at vises??
Well, I found one that caught my eye. Really good condition, with bright orange paint covering the entire thing. It's actually on a post mounted on a semi rim. The handle is odd, as the ends don't match, but the square end is actually held on with a set pin. Either a replacement or really old. It's marked No. 104 1/2 on one side, and Reed, and some patent dates on the other. It's sitting in a bath of Citrus based paint stripper as we speak.
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?? Had at least one of the holes ready to go
. You said #35, not #135, correct? I would give my 1st born for a #135...