30X40X12 - After Fire Rebuild

[920kip]

Pool and shop look great. The tiled pool deck is a new design element that you failed to mention though. LOL

 

[Wingnut65]

Awesome progress. Everything is getting ready for the party!

That will be a lot of concrete to pour. Be very grateful for hiring it out.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Awesome progress. Everything is getting ready for the party!

That will be a lot of concrete to pour. Be very grateful for hiring it out.

Thanks Wingnut....It was a lot of concrete. The top patio area is stamped, which is an interesting process...and time-consuming. A color was added to the concrete as they poured (powder) and then after leveling and screeding (sp?), they covered everything with another thick powder they called the release agent. Then with a set of about 7 or 8 rubber stamps in varying shapes roughly 2' X 3', they carefully stamped out a cobblestone pattern. That was a week ago...the release agent is still there, but should get acid washed and sealed soon.The lower pool deck area will eventually get a "Cool-deck" coating. Anyway...here's the pool pics:

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And for those who have endured this thread for a while, we discussed "relief" holes in the pool bottom to keep it from floating. Given the rain we've had, I suppose they may have been needed. You can see them in these pics now that the pool is no longer the site trash dump!!

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Shop pics to follow!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Pool and shop look great. The tiled pool deck is a new design element that you failed to mention though. LOL

Thanks 920kip....Hope you're not dissappointed. No tile on the pool deck...just stamped concrete. I'm looking forward to seeing it once acid washed and sealed though. Thanks for stopping by!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Well...My 8 year old's baseball team won their district tournament and will be moving on the state tournament this coming week. So our season is extended and practices and other activities have limited shop time. Progress is being made though and I wouldn't trade the time with the kids for anything. Major accomplishments over the last couple weeks are the staining of the cabinets, beadboard and trim and RACE DECK FLOOR installation has begun! We had the stain done by a professional. I can paint good enough to be happy with it, but staining large surfaces has always intimidated me. Let me know what you think.

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I'm loving the Race Deck. It is very easy to work with and the main area goes down quick! A couple things I learned:

1.) Have help...My wife and daughter helped a lot. My wife organized all the boxes of tile by color and kept us supplied with correct tiles for the pattern, broken into the right shape. The tiles I bought ship connected together in groups of 4 and they only go together one way, so orientation is important.

2.) A rubber mallet would be the ideal tool for snapping the tiles together. They go together easy enough to hit with your fist, but that gets old after a while! My rubber mallet must have burned up and i used a regular claw hammer.

3). If it will matter with the pattern you're doing, spend time measuring and laying out test pieces. You can see the pattern I chose has a black border all the way around. It took several tries to get everything laid out where the edging worked out.

4). I definitely recommend an underlayment. Wingnut used landscape fabric under his and I really wasn't liking the feel (a little hard) or the sound (seemed to click against the concrete) when I had tiles laid out with nothing between them and the concrete. I looked at HD and they had three levels of underlayment for laminate wood floors. This is the least expensive of the three ($0.25/sf) and made a world of difference.

The most time consuming part is the egdge trim. Measure, cut, snap in place, measure (what was that again?), measure again, cut..oops, didn't have the orientation right when I cut that one...measure, cut, snap in place, measure, cut....not really that bad, just takes time.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Remember tip #1? Get Help! Doesn't get much better:

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Pics of the outside trim:

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Job well done!

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[SpeedinLemon]

Oh yeah...There's supposed to be a shop in here somewhere. You can tell which side is getting the attention right now:

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It's a mess up front still. I have gotten some trim up and will get pics of the rest of the Race Deck install soon.

Thanks for watching!!

 

[Shoottx]

SL

Great execution on the rebuild, love the fit and finish on the staining and race deck. Be sure and include me on the list for the 1st Annual SpeedinLemon Texas Hold'em Tournament. When you have a casino that nice, I am sure the line for attendees will be long.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

SL

Great execution on the rebuild, love the fit and finish on the staining and race deck. Be sure and include me on the list for the 1st Annual SpeedinLemon Texas Hold'em Tournament. When you have a casino that nice, I am sure the line for attendees will be long.

Thanks Mike...you have been paying attention! I am looking forward to some poker games....and you're close enough to come....might be a bit of a drive after a late night game though!

Here's a couple pics of the stain/trim/carpet in the room. Now just need to move in the air hockey table:

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I had planned on an actual pane of glass in the window, but wifey and I were discussing the other night and the new plan is to trim out the window opening and put a 12" or so wide mini-bar ledge there. I think it will be a good place to set a drink and keep that room connected to the rest.

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The bead board in this room had been up for several years and it seems to have taken the stain much more evenly that the newer board I recently put up. I don't know (hope?) that the newer will age similarly over time. Not sure if the wood itself is different, just greener, or why the differnce, but I'm happy with it all, but I think the older beadboard turned out better. Older is better right!

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The plaster/pebble lining was installed in the pool today and now that I've left town with my 8 year old for a few days for the baseball tournament, I'm sure pool progress will be lightening fast!

 

[tinbender 66]

This whole project is turning out fantastic!!

 

[NUTTSGT]

The place is really coming together and looking nice. I'm looking forward to your next build when you realize that current shop is too nice to do any dirty work in.

 

[BMcC]

The woodwork is looking really good and the whole garage is coming along nicely.

 

[Aaron P.]

great shop man...after reading down tru the tread it seems to have worked out better for you that you had a fire as look at the changes gone into it now.....id say that was a scarey accident in your truck with all family??? glad to hear nobody was hurt its great to have the little man help

 

[SpeedinLemon]

This whole project is turning out fantastic!!

Thanks Paul...I'm pleased with just about everything but the pace! I'm off the next four days and back home from baseball, so maybe I'll get a little done!

The place is really coming together and looking nice. I'm looking forward to your next build when you realize that current shop is too nice to do any dirty work in.

Thanks Eric...I'm afraid that same thought has already crossed my mind! We'll see how everything goes, but I do have 16' just to the west of the shop that would be a great spot to add-on. That will have to wait though and there's always the covered awning area out front that should get me by for a while.

The woodwork is looking really good and the whole garage is coming along nicely.

Thanks BMcC...Much appreciated.

great shop man...after reading down tru the tread it seems to have worked out better for you that you had a fire as look at the changes gone into it now.....id say that was a scarey accident in your truck with all family??? glad to hear nobody was hurt its great to have the little man help

Thanks Aaron. I guess I never would have gone to this level rebuilding/remodeling if it hadn't been for the fire, but I'm still not calling it a blessing...Trying to make lemonade out of lemons though The accident was scary and I AM calling that night a blessing! With 8 of us in there, it could have turned out much differently! God was on our side that night for sure. The little guy is a lot of fun to have around. He's my most dependable helper. The whole family has pitched in, but he's always the first to volunteer to "Go work in Daddy's shop!".

Like I said, I'm off the next four days, so hopefully will have updated pics soon. Thanks for all the kind words guys.

Chris

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Well a few days off and some good progress has been made in the shop...but also a problem I need some advice on. Here we go....

Counter top and tile installed:
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Sink is plumbed in and working!
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And some color up front. I've got a few nice Mobilgas and other old signs and Thanks to inspiration from the likes of Roger55, Ohio Auto, Don Long and origninally Red Leader, NightTrain and ShopNut....(I shouldn't have started that list!...there are many others!)....I am going for a vintage gas station look for working part of the shop. The Texaco stations seemed to go best with my white with green trim and I continued the traditional Texaco colors on the inside. Anyway...Here's what the paint is looking like so far:

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A little hard to tell in the pics, but the top color is a very light green. The red took several coats to cover...it looked very pink after the first couple of coats. A this point, I had the top edge of the middle red stripe taped off with 3M EdgeLock tape...more on that later:
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The main box around the main beam will be the same red....looking a little pink right now with only one coat as of this pic....It's got nothing on FlyBeFree...but pink none the less:
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Dark green on the bottom...Stripe looks good from back here and a good pic of the Race Deck:
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No middle stripe on the west wall just yet. I did pull the tape though....
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The little helper carried a little too much speed around that plywood and straight into the paint tray! Probably ruined some sandals and hurt his pride a little, but luckily it was right in the middle of the drop cloth!
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Stripe issue to follow....

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Ok...So the paint was going on good, red stripes were taking several coats(maybe 6 or 7) to get the true red color, but all seemed to be going well. But as I removed the tape....Houston, we have a problem! In several places the light green paint from the upper part of the wall came up with the tape:

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I was pretty disappointed, but I think I left the tape on too long. It was on From Saturday to Tuesday evening. The west wall (in the previous post without the stripe) I taped that and pulled the tape off both on the same day. The west wall had no issues with the paint pulling up??

I think my fix will be to take a razor blade and cut back the loose paint and sand the edges smooth, then after a couple days letting the red stripe dry, put the tape line back on and repaint the lighter green. I'll probably have to narrow the stripe 3/8" or so, but I think it will be ok. Any thoughts from you experience stripe painters out there?

And another reason to love the Race Deck:

Remnants from the paint tray mishap:
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And about 10 seconds later....just rubbed the paint off with my finger:
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On second thought....Maybe it's the paint....seemed to come off the wall about that easy too!

 

[V70R]

Great work, Lemon...just read the rebuild and it has come along great. Oily rags burnt down my father's high school shop in the mid 60's here in Portland, before that they were never aware they would "self ignite" essentially. Keep it going strong!

 

[NUTTSGT]

I still standby "too nice to work in" but it looks so freaking nice.

I had an issue with tape pulling paint off a while back. I basically had to pull it off before the paint was dry.

 

[richtersrodz]

Nice work.. I also ran into that tape issue once. Then found out that they make several kinds of the blue tape. They come in "days" of sticky.. I found some that said it was "1 day" stick. This was after it was on the glossy hardwood floor, and it ripped up the clear coat. Doah!!

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

I'd like to say I have 'The Fix' for your paint stripe problem; it may indeed be a 'tape left on too long' situation, but I don't like the pic of how the light green is lifting. It may be the quality/brand of the field color paint itself that is the root problem. What specific primer and finish coat(s) did you use? If you can take the time, prime a piece of scrap wall material, let it dry as per the label, and lay a coat of red on top of it; does it cover in one coat, or does it show as pinkish? If the test piece shows up red (or less pink than your single coat on the wall), I would then suspect the light green wall color is interacting with the red's volatiles, and is causing 'bleed-through'. If that is the case, I would then suggest you re-prime/seal the field color in the area you wish to apply the stripe. Like any paint job, it's 90% preparation and 10% application, unfortunately we sometimes think we've properly prepped and are sadly mistaken after the application. Good luck in finding a fix that you'll be happy to live with!

Oh, you've probably heard about the stripping trick with the less expensive tape. To prevent a ragged line edge caused by capillary action under the tape edge, lay out your tape, then paint over the edge of the tape (edge towards the stripe) with the field color of your walls. The field color is what gets sucked up by capillary action; after it dries you can apply your stripe color without getting that ragged edge. Again, you want to remove the tape as soon as you complete a section and not wait until you do the entire room. Also, you want to pull the tape not out from the wall, but back along its path and just slightly angled away from the freshly laid paint to avoid lifting of the finish coat. For a little insurance, if the tape sat a while, I would lightly score the tape edge with a single-edge razor blade, or a very sharp penknife, prior to removing the tape to avoid any lifting/tearing of the finish coat.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Great work, Lemon...just read the rebuild and it has come along great. Oily rags burnt down my father's high school shop in the mid 60's here in Portland, before that they were never aware they would "self ignite" essentially. Keep it going strong!

Thanks V70R....I never thought about the rags much either, but am amazed at how many people have rag burning stories. Maybe this will keep one or two from happening in the future!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

I still standby "too nice to work in" but it looks so freaking nice.

I had an issue with tape pulling paint off a while back. I basically had to pull it off before the paint was dry.

We'll see!! I do plan on working out there. (and probably cleaning!).

I think that was my problem on the paint....just left the tape on way to long.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Nice work.. I also ran into that tape issue once. Then found out that they make several kinds of the blue tape. They come in "days" of sticky.. I found some that said it was "1 day" stick. This was after it was on the glossy hardwood floor, and it ripped up the clear coat. Doah!!

I bought the "Edge Lock" tape from 3M. I didn't notice the days of sticky designation....I'll check that out. Thanks!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

I'd like to say I have 'The Fix' for your paint stripe problem; it may indeed be a 'tape left on too long' situation, but I don't like the pic of how the light green is lifting. It may be the quality/brand of the field color paint itself that is the root problem. What specific primer and finish coat(s) did you use? If you can take the time, prime a piece of scrap wall material, let it dry as per the label, and lay a coat of red on top of it; does it cover in one coat, or does it show as pinkish? If the test piece shows up red (or less pink than your single coat on the wall), I would then suspect the light green wall color is interacting with the red's volatiles, and is causing 'bleed-through'. If that is the case, I would then suggest you re-prime/seal the field color in the area you wish to apply the stripe. Like any paint job, it's 90% preparation and 10% application, unfortunately we sometimes think we've properly prepped and are sadly mistaken after the application. Good luck in finding a fix that you'll be happy to live with!

Oh, you've probably heard about the stripping trick with the less expensive tape. To prevent a ragged line edge caused by capillary action under the tape edge, lay out your tape, then paint over the edge of the tape (edge towards the stripe) with the field color of your walls. The field color is what gets sucked up by capillary action; after it dries you can apply your stripe color without getting that ragged edge. Again, you want to remove the tape as soon as you complete a section and not wait until you do the entire room. Also, you want to pull the tape not out from the wall, but back along its path and just slightly angled away from the freshly laid paint to avoid lifting of the finish coat. For a little insurance, if the tape sat a while, I would lightly score the tape edge with a single-edge razor blade, or a very sharp penknife, prior to removing the tape to avoid any lifting/tearing of the finish coat.

Thanks for the detailed info Ompha! The paint was Glidden interior semi-gloss enamel over Kilz latex primer. I also put down a very light coat of drywall mud to give just a little texture to that wall. I haven't made up a test piece, but the red paint was very pink over the primer. If you noticed in the first pics of the stripes, there was no dark green lower paint. I actually painted back over the red(2-3 coats) with the darker green thinking it would cover better. That red is just a pain...it may be the brand/type of paint, but seems like I've heard stories on red paint having a hard time covering expecially the lighter colors. I agree on your 90/10 rule for prep vs. application. I think I took the time, just didn't do the right things. The light green only lifted right along the tape line and even the big spots wouldn't pull back much from there. I've cut away all the loose and will go back and sand and try to redo. And I'll get that tape off there much sooner this time. I think that will work as the opposite wall had no lifting issues and the lighter green was all painted at the same time. Only difference was I pulled the tape within a few hours of starting the dark green and I didn't paint the stripe. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the tips!

 

[flybefree]

My shop is still more pinker than your shop my friend! Love the work you you have done, looks great.

Shaun

 

[flybefree]

Second vote for overpainting the tape with the base color, worked for me.

Shaun

 

[cgall]

You can also hold a 6" or 12" joint knife right at the edge of the tape when lifting. Time consuming, though.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I don't remember seeing the problem with tape/paint peeling many years ago. I'd say one of the biggest problems is the reformulated paint courtesy of the EPA.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

My shop is still more pinker than your shop my friend! Love the work you you have done, looks great.

Shaun

No doubt! You win the pinkest shop contest hands down!

Thanks!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Quick update on the pool:

Here is preparation for the "mini-pebble" finish we chose. Looked like a spider web over the pool. Point was to keep the air lines and hoses off the finish:
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And a couple days later....we had water:
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We used my brother in law's brand new water well to fill it. Didn't take but about a day to fill, but being a brand new well, the water had lots of sand. We've had water in it about 2 weeks now and it's finally clearing up.
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Pergola is installed:
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Metal roof is on and furniture in place:
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Volleyball net is in and fountains are working:
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I used some pieces of frame from an old gazebo painted with brown hammer finish paint, painted the outside electric box and equipment white. Hides the ugly old grey stuff pretty good. A plant or two wouldn't hurt anything, but July in Texas is survival time for plants(and people!), not planting season! Eventually....
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Still a few things to finish up and I may need an engineering degree to run this thing:
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[SpeedinLemon]

Here's a few pics of the front of the shop since we've cleaned up a lot of the construction and fire debris:
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Nutts....Here's going to be my work space more than likely, at least for the dirty/dusty stuff! It's about 18X20 and only problem is it slopes away from the builing a little more than I was planning on:
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[ConstructionBoss]

Looks Great!!! Gives me some things to think about when we start designing our pool. Congrats on the progress so far.

 

[slamin81]

hold up put the brakes on the garage your son's tractors rear wheel need some repare lol

 

[slamin81]

love the setup in your garage,, i have a similar set up im thinking of doing a 16 foot door in the middle also, do you love your or would go back and put two 10 footers in the front...

 

[Nighttrain]

If only I lived closer I would have filled your pool with surface water for a great GJ discount, .. The pool looks great, you are about a year ahead of me on this portion of my garage build. Couple of question??? what is the lf' of the pool? I really like the size of it. Also how did they attach the wood post for the pergola? Looking great and yes fix that tractor tire.


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[930dreamer]

Some how I missed this thread, very nice build.

 

[JasonW]

That red is just a pain...it may be the brand/type of paint, but seems like I've heard stories on red paint having a hard time covering especially the lighter colors.

Amazing transformation to your workshop and a beautiful pool and patio. A couple thoughts on paint:

To improve coverage with red paint, prime with grey first. Note this pick from roger55's garage (http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/3435/Inside_Paint.jpg). I know, where was I a couple weeks ago? Also, if you continue to have problems with the paint sticking you may want to recoat the pealed areas with a PVA primer (available from Home Depot and most building supply or paint stores). PVA primers are used to seal raw drywall and similar materials. I would think the Kilz would have done the job but it sounds like it may simply have not sealed the texture you applied well enough (or the surface was still a little damp when you primed?).

Keep up the good work.

 

[shopnut]

Still a few things to finish up and I may need an engineering degree to run this thing:
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The pool retreat is looking Fabulous!

But Holy Pool Equipment, Batman! Luckily, it looks like some of valves have electric actuators which will make life easier for you. To help house guests in our absence with the manual valves, I took pictures with our them in the various pool modes (normal, pool heating, spa heating, etc.) so they could just look at the picture and move the valves accordingly. While taking the pictures, I added some blue painters tape to each handle so there was no doubt which way it is pointed.

Here's one as an example:

Just a thought.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Looks Great!!! Gives me some things to think about when we start designing our pool. Congrats on the progress so far.

Thanks CB! The design process on this one was October through April. We probably went through three major revisions and then lots of minor changes once we had the final design. Figuring out the fence probably took the longest. We wanted to be able to lock up the pool, but still open it up during parties and not look like a maximum security prison! It was a fun process, but I'm glad it's about done!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

love the setup in your garage,, i have a similar set up im thinking of doing a 16 foot door in the middle also, do you love your or would go back and put two 10 footers in the front...

Thanks Slamin! If I was doing it all over again, I might turn the long side to the front and put two doors in it pushed to one side. The kit I bought for the building didn't have that option though. I don't think I'd go with 2 doors on the short side though. There's so many different options available....really depends on what you're planning on doing with it. Thanks for stopping by and keep us posted on what you do with yours.