Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel

[smschriefer]

Glad to read you are making the final push on the floor! Are you going to do the epoxy in sections? Where will you store your tools while the floor cures. I think it is 48 hours before you are supposed to put stuff back on the floor. That was what drove me to ceramic tiles.

All I know for sure is that your floor will look awesome as you pay great attention to detail. Best wishes on completing it soon!

 

[Red Leader]

DONE.


Well, not really...but mostly


Some in progress shots-


3/4 done:

Getting there!

Took this one a few minutes after I stopped for a quick break:

Fun.





And here is the [DONE!] part:

Final pad, done and done

And here is the 'not so done' part :

I have to feather out about 8 sq ft of concrete that was raised up a bit when it settled. Should be easy enough. The edge of the grinding cup does well on this part. Shouldn't take me but another hour. Compared to the 20+ hours on the rest of it, I'm not really counting it


Some other work has been taking place in the garage, for top secret reasons. Here's what I've been up to:

Also, sadly...that fun aluminum veneer that I used on the tool boards was gettin' just a little to 'wavy' and jittery, so I had to do this

------------>

And let me tell you, this is not fun:

One of my 'life lessons of the 1950s Craftsman Garage' will now include "Don't ever use weldwood glue on anything that there is even a remote chance of needing/wanting/having to remove one day."


'Doing things the hard way', that's how we roll in the 1950s Craftsman Garage.

 

[Red Leader]

Glad to read you are making the final push on the floor! Are you going to do the epoxy in sections? Where will you store your tools while the floor cures. I think it is 48 hours before you are supposed to put stuff back on the floor. That was what drove me to ceramic tiles.

All I know for sure is that your floor will look awesome as you pay great attention to detail. Best wishes on completing it soon!

Thanks Steve. I need all the wishes I can get.

To be honest, my deadline of getting the floor done (epoxy down) by August 1-3 is probably not going to happen. It could if I was a slob, but there is more prep work to be done.

Regarding the epoxy being done in parts, I've been thinking about the control joints lately and what to do with them. My original plan was to get some fancy stuff (epoxy filler w/elongation properties) to fill in all the joints, but that is some pricey stuff (regardless of manufacturer) and I don't think I could afford to fill in all the joints because they are the 'deep-V' type joints, not just the saw cut type joints. I'll still have to get some of that stuff to fill in the legitimate cracks in the middle of pads, but I've been thinking of just keeping the control joint spacing and just squaring them off (cutting them into a U-channel and laying in some wood expansion filler strips, which would cover up and somewhat seal the 1/4" cracks in the joints and perhaps provide a tiny bit of a buffer for the pads to still shift if need be without it disturbing the epoxy coating - which was a concern of mine.

Is it ideal? No. Is it cheap? Yes. Can it be done in the best interests of the epoxy floor? Yes. I am used to working with wood and it is a very flexible material. My hope is square the channels, pre-fit the wood, sand the wood flush to the floor, pull the wood then finish it, seal the cracks with something (maybe expanding foam, then epoxy the floor and install the strips. It could give a pretty cool look. Here is what I'm going for:

I know it won't be as tight of a joint as if I had laid down the wood when when the concrete was formed, but I'm willing to consider this because the garage is not exposed to the elements like outside control joints, so the wood should hold up fine, even if the fit isn't perfect the whole way through. If the pads shift or do something weird, I can pull the wood and work with it, versus the pads shifting and ruining the floor coating.


Maybe I'm a big idiot, but since I figure the control joints are already cracked with 1/4" cracks, all bets are off and it frees me up to do whatever. I guess everyone can stick around and see how it turns out. It will either be really cool or a huge flop!

 

[shopnut]

'Doing things the hard way', that's how we roll in the 1950s Craftsman Garage.

Nothing wrong with doin' it the hard way as long as the body holds out!

Take your time and roll your own way - that's how we do it here at GJ.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Dave, <looking at the grinder and floor> you're crazy. And I mean that in the very best possible way

I agree with the Weldwood sentiment. Once you stick it, it's stuck. That is commitment.

 

[JasonW]

Red Leader,

I have really been trying not to spend money on tools or much of anything of late, even staying away from your journal to minimize the temptation, BUT

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman Floor Model Saw (1957 - 1960 vintage) similar to yours. I don't have the space but it's calling to me. My question for you is this. Is this something that I will be able to get into my vehicle (SUV) by myself? I can obviously take the extension tables off and remove the motor but how heavy is the balance of the saw. Unfortunately because of the distance I would have to go on my own. If I can move it, I will see what I can do to negotiate the price. Thanks for the clue as to what you paid for yours.

Glad to see you making progress on that floor. Looks like more work than some of the tool restorations!? If you exclude the lead paint and the asbestos insulation, I think the same rules apply to homes as tools - the 50's were better, at least the floors were flat, the wood held the nails, and the paint lasted more than 7 years.

Once again, thanks for the story. I follow in the master's footsteps.

 

[smschriefer]

Jason, I have moved 4 bench saws and the best method I have found is to take the fence, guard and motor off before tackling the body. My method is to tilt the saw until the table rests on the tailgate and flip the whole saw upside down - the saw is very top heavy and will do most of the work for you. This puts all the weight at the bottom and things slide easily. I suppose putting it on its side would work for a floor model. Remember the base is cast iron, so it will still be heavy.

You didn't mention the type of SUV. Huge difference between a Suburban and an Escape. With the table extensions removed the table is 20x27 and the base is 22 3/4 x 19 1/2. 37 1/2" tall. I would say it should fit, but it does weigh 300 lbs without the motor.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Looks like good progress RL! Very meticulous and well thought out. In some of your pics it looks like you're exposing the aggregate of the concrete. I wonder if a clear epoxy over that with your cool wood expansion joints would be a good look? I don't know if the aggregate exposure would be uniform throughout or just where you're having to get pretty deep. Anyway...just a thought I had when I saw that showing through. Might be a cool look, but may or may not be what you're after.

Sorry to hear about the tool board...what's the plan to redo it?

Looking great in there (and dusty!). Keep it up.

Chris

 

[JasonW]

Thanks for the information Steve. The SUV in question is a Ford Expedition. I believe that Red Leader transported his in the front seat of a Honda Civic so space wise I think I will be fine. I just wasn't sure how much help he had getting it in there or to what extent he had to dismantle it in the process. 300 pounds is a lot, but I suppose if I brought along a couple of 2X6's I could use them as a ramp of sorts, tilt the saw and slid it in on its back.

 

[smschriefer]

You will probably find that 200lbs of that saw is in the top foot as that is the weight of a bench model saw. So if you tip the top onto the floor of your Expedition, all you have to lift is about 100lbs. I'd still take the 2x6s to slide the saw forward into the SUV.

 

[JasonW]

Steve,
Don't know why it didn't occur to me to check the weight of a period bench saw. I did check the weight of the extensions (about 25lbs each). Based upon your comment, I am thinking a 1/4 sheet of plywood in the back would be a good sliding surface. That combined with the 2x6's, wrenches, wd40, and an impact driver and I should be good to go.

Red Leader, sorry for taking over your thread this morning. Would still be interested in any thoughts / cautions you might have to offer.

 

[Wingnut65]

Jason, Steve gave the facts on the machine. An Expedition should be no problem to fit The answer to whether you can get it in yourself depends on how motivated and creative one could be. Try what Steve suggested, but also take some 2x's along. The could always be used as a ramp, wedge or lever to push the unit into the back. Another useful tool is a work-mate type folding workbench. That could break the lifting height into two smaller steps. Then there is always the idea of recruiting more help from locals when you pick it up... Good luck and congrats on taking the RL Plunge into vintage tools!

 

[Wingnut65]

DONE.

Dave, That is Awesome

Just having a chance to catch up and see all the fun you have been having. Wow! Hopefully your arms and back will recover. Like Girl and others have said, that is an enormous undertaking to complete! But the DIY industry was developed on budget minded people like us.

Two thoughts on the tool board... 1) Would a heat gun or hot hairdryer have helped to get the glue to release? Not a major concern since it is all removed now, but to remove the rest of the glue, it might help soften it enough to use a putty knife on it, and 2) The problem with the warping metal was not the metal's fauld... It was that there were no tools on the so-called tool board to hold the down the metal. Or at least cover it up so you didn't notice it waving at you.

BTW, that workbench is working out really well catching all the clutter in the shop. Just like every one else's (except Jack's).

No rush from us to push and get the floor finished. Take your time and do it when you are satisfied with the prep work. Keep up the great work!

 

[JasonW]

Yeah, that's about right . . . The RL Plunge (enter at your own risk)

Last July I purchased several 21st century Delta home user bench tools for $25 each (mini band saw, joiner, belt/disk sander, scroll saw, 1" band sander) and was all excited about finding more. (We all have to start somewhere, right?)
Then in August I purchased a 50's CM bench grinder (the price was right, $10, and I needed, make that wanted, a grinder). The first time I turned it on, I was sold. The sound was beautiful compared to the newer ones. While searching for more information, I found the 50's Craftsman Garage. With that I got the crazy idea that I needed to recreate my grandfathers workshop. Only problem was (and remains) my grandfather had a dedicated shop and I have an undersized single car garage and six feet of driveway. I am working on correcting that deficiency but in the mean time, have a really hard time passing up a good deal when it comes to tools. I have since acquired a 4" CM jointer, two CM drill presses (from which I will reconstruct one), a rather unique 3 drum hand held CM belt sander, 1/3 sheet CM corded sander, as well as a few newer non-CM tools like a Kreg K3 Pocket Hole Jig. I should get some pictures of the belt sander and see what ideas you guys have for repairing the tracking guides. Once I figure out the shop issue, I suppose I will have to start my own journal and take my turn sharing the virus. Until then, thanks to everyone for the insights and inspiration.

 

[flybefree]

RL...you are killing me with the pain and suffering pictures here! Make my back and arms ache just looking at it...good luck amigo...hopefully there are cold beers waiting at the end for you.

Shaun

 

[Red Leader]

Red Leader,

I have really been trying not to spend money on tools or much of anything of late, even staying away from your journal to minimize the temptation, BUT

I have an opportunity to pick up a Craftsman Floor Model Saw (1957 - 1960 vintage) similar to yours. I don't have the space but it's calling to me. My question for you is this. Is this something that I will be able to get into my vehicle (SUV) by myself? I can obviously take the extension tables off and remove the motor but how heavy is the balance of the saw. Unfortunately because of the distance I would have to go on my own. If I can move it, I will see what I can do to negotiate the price. Thanks for the clue as to what you paid for yours.

Glad to see you making progress on that floor. Looks like more work than some of the tool restorations!? If you exclude the lead paint and the asbestos insulation, I think the same rules apply to homes as tools - the 50's were better, at least the floors were flat, the wood held the nails, and the paint lasted more than 7 years.

Once again, thanks for the story. I follow in the master's footsteps.

Good to hear of another one saved. They are fabulous saws. Mine still needs a little truing up, but shouldn't take much. Being from 1957-1960, is it the power bronze version? Those saws sure look nice in that paint. Eventually, I want to paint mine surf green when I do a full restoration to give it a true 1950s vibe (irony is it being from the 1960s, but I digress). When you get it, make sure to bring some wrenches (9/16, 1/2, 5/8, large flat and phillips screwdrivers, and ratchets/sockets/extensions if you have them.

Regarding your question...

You'll be fine

 

[Red Leader]

Looks like good progress RL! Very meticulous and well thought out. In some of your pics it looks like you're exposing the aggregate of the concrete. I wonder if a clear epoxy over that with your cool wood expansion joints would be a good look? I don't know if the aggregate exposure would be uniform throughout or just where you're having to get pretty deep. Anyway...just a thought I had when I saw that showing through. Might be a cool look, but may or may not be what you're after.

Sorry to hear about the tool board...what's the plan to redo it?

Looking great in there (and dusty!). Keep it up.

Chris

Chris,

Thanks so much for your encouragement and thoughts. Yes, I had to feather the concrete down to level it up and that did necessitate taking about 3/16ths off in some places. Turns out I had to do this in 3 or 4 places, not just in the '4 corners' area, which unfortunately I was not expecting. However, it is done and while not perfect it is a heck of a lot better than it was. I notched out the main crack going completely through one of the main pads and it will be ready for some epoxy crack filler. I'm not sure when I'll get to do all this once I return, because the stuff is a pretty penny and it is not in the budget right now. So we'll see. Unfortunately, I'll have to do that before I lay the floor down. I'll also have to channel out those expansion grooves as well, so my plan for pulling all nighters near the 1st of August is starting to look like a false reality. However, once I get the cracks taken care of and the groove cuts done and the wood fitted, we'll be in good shape.

I hear what you are saying about the aggregate. It would be a cool look. Unfortunately it is not uniform and so I'll probably just cover it up with epoxy. However, an idea I've been toying around with a little bit is doing a decal/laser etched metal logo to put down on the floor between the epoxy and clear coat, but we'll see if that actually happens. At this point, it is all about budget


Regarding the tool board, I need to scrap that **** off (which will ****) and then sand and I'm just going to follow the paint scheme on the wall. If it looks dumb I'll just cover it up with some of that metal laminate formica type stuff others had mentioned in the past. However, with the wall colors, it should mesh well with the trim wood around it, since it will be the natural wood (up there right now) with a black cover strip covering the joint. That incorporates all the main colors of the garage - teal, tan, black, and wood

 

[Red Leader]

Red Leader, sorry for taking over your thread this morning. Would still be interested in any thoughts / cautions you might have to offer.

A non-issue The only thoughts I have is that if it is possible to keep the table on the cabinet, do so. it is a little tricky to get off. I would still remove the handwheels, though, as they are worth their weight in gold (replacements are extremely hard to find)

The table is attached at 3 points, 2 in the back and 1 up front. While there are 4 holes in the top of the sheet metal cabinet, there is an intermediate steel bar that connects the front of the table (1 hold) and holds it down to the cabinet (2 holes), which can be a bit of a pain to put back together.

Also, because the innards are all attached to the top for the table, it makes removing the table hard. I had help when I removed the top, but no help when I put it back on the saw myself.

Whatever you do, DO NOT PUT THE TOP BACK ON BY YOURSELF. It can be very, very bad for your back and I was extremely lucky (blessed) that I did not injure my back putting that thing on because it weighs a ton. I will not ever attempt that stupidity again. Please learn from me.


So, in review:

Don't put table tops back on by yourself and don't use bench grinders as hand grinders




...lessons from the 1950s Craftsman Garage

 

[Red Leader]

Dave, That is Awesome

Just having a chance to catch up and see all the fun you have been having. Wow! Hopefully your arms and back will recover. Like Girl and others have said, that is an enormous undertaking to complete! But the DIY industry was developed on budget minded people like us.

Two thoughts on the tool board... 1) Would a heat gun or hot hairdryer have helped to get the glue to release? Not a major concern since it is all removed now, but to remove the rest of the glue, it might help soften it enough to use a putty knife on it, and 2) The problem with the warping metal was not the metal's fauld... It was that there were no tools on the so-called tool board to hold the down the metal. Or at least cover it up so you didn't notice it waving at you.

BTW, that workbench is working out really well catching all the clutter in the shop. Just like every one else's (except Jack's).

No rush from us to push and get the floor finished. Take your time and do it when you are satisfied with the prep work. Keep up the great work!

Thanks Jeff I am super glad it is (nearly) done. I saw last night after sweeping that I have a small 4"x 20" section I somehow missed. That, and making sure I completely get the floor just in front of the garage door weather strip, and then I can fully, officially say that I am done!

Regarding the tool board, the hair dryer is a good idea and I did think of it, but I have also burned out hair dryers before using them for non-intended projects I might try it though after getting the blessing from the wifey.

And the other point...I know I know! I'm really nit-picky over here with pulling that stuff off. Tools would have been the idea fix haha


Regarding the floor, if I want to do it right, I'll have a few more steps to complete that just throwing down the epoxy. I would like to do it right.

 

[Red Leader]

Yeah, that's about right . . . The RL Plunge (enter at your own risk)

Last July I purchased several 21st century Delta home user bench tools for $25 each (mini band saw, joiner, belt/disk sander, scroll saw, 1" band sander) and was all excited about finding more. (We all have to start somewhere, right?)
Then in August I purchased a 50's CM bench grinder (the price was right, $10, and I needed, make that wanted, a grinder). The first time I turned it on, I was sold. The sound was beautiful compared to the newer ones. While searching for more information, I found the 50's Craftsman Garage. With that I got the crazy idea that I needed to recreate my grandfathers workshop. Only problem was (and remains) my grandfather had a dedicated shop and I have an undersized single car garage and six feet of driveway. I am working on correcting that deficiency but in the mean time, have a really hard time passing up a good deal when it comes to tools. I have since acquired a 4" CM jointer, two CM drill presses (from which I will reconstruct one), a rather unique 3 drum hand held CM belt sander, 1/3 sheet CM corded sander, as well as a few newer non-CM tools like a Kreg K3 Pocket Hole Jig. I should get some pictures of the belt sander and see what ideas you guys have for repairing the tracking guides. Once I figure out the shop issue, I suppose I will have to start my own journal and take my turn sharing the virus. Until then, thanks to everyone for the insights and inspiration.

Thanks for sharing your story. I am glad the project has inspired you to some degree. It is never tool late to start! Even if you don't have the space, you can start a small collection and work your way up until you get a larger space. Sounds like you've got the makings of a great project.

Regarding the belt sander, would it be the 207.2230 sander pictured just a little ways down on this page:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Kneisley Electric Company.ashx

??


If so, I hear it is a good sander, but owners have reported issues finding the obscure length belts for it. That was the biggest issues steering me away from it. However, since I don't own one and haven't really don't a lot of research on one, I'm not completely sure that there isn't the option to source them or get them made, so it might be worth checking out.

In any case, good work keeping these old tools alive!

 

[Red Leader]

RL...you are killing me with the pain and suffering pictures here! Make my back and arms ache just looking at it...good luck amigo...hopefully there are cold beers waiting at the end for you.

Shaun

Shaun,

I'm just glad it is nearly over. I used a few different methods that worked well for me. I used a box (about 10" high) and various toolboxes to sit on and that provided a decently comfortable height to do grinding with. When that got tiring, I would actually just sit on the floor with legs crossed and that was reasonably comfortable for a while. I found that the kneeling method with both knees down was quick to tire the back out.

I might have the box (or tool box) setup visible in some of the floor pictures. Hey, ya make do with what ya got

 

[JasonW]

I had to run out this morning before I had time to answer your question. I was going to say,

'I don't know what color the saw is. It looks kind of mint colored in the photo. Must be grey.'

Having now seen the saw, I must ask why it was calling out to me and not to you. The original color was bronze but someone repainted it a lighter version of Red Leader's Famous 50's Blue|Green. So I'm sitting here looking at your cabinet thinking that's the color I want, while you are looking at it and imagining a future where it looks a lot more like mine (at least mine at some earlier age). Visually the cabinet is pretty rough. It's rusty but doesn't appear pitted, the feet seem ok. It has been dragged around a bit. There is paint flaking off all around the base and it is covered in some sort of (chemical?) residue.
I hope you can direct me in the process of restoring all the chrome. It almost looks like an earlier owner lived somewhere near the ocean. I am concerned it may be too pitted. I will post some pictures after I figure out how to get it out of my truck. I am also hopeful that someone can help me with some pictures of the fence's rear guide. This one has been modified and I don't know why or what might be missing. I literally had to cut it apart to remove the extensions. The saw is a number 103.22420, hopefully I can locate a manual and maybe figure it out. What number is yours?

Now I am taking you at your word that this is a good saw. I had wanted a UniSaw but if you sold yours in favor of this, that speaks well for it. In any case, I don't think I could have touched a UniSaw for the price.

So here's the ad:

Heavy Craftsman Tablesaw 8" with assorted blades
1 horsepower capacitor motor
Asking $200 OBO
Call: 000-000-0000 for more details

And the picture:

Note the date in the picture. It would appear they have been planning to sell this for a while. It's been listed on CL for at least 2 weeks. And yes I believe that it is really a 10 inch, not 8 as listed. So returning to your earlier formula, my final price:

Home Depot Table Saw - 30

That picture really drives home the value of the older tools.

Came with four original standard sized extensions bolted together, original wheel set (only someone replaced the wheels with smaller ones which required drilling new holes ), original switch, and of course the motor (also painted to match ). Not included: splitter / blade guard. Does anyone actually have one?

Completely missing the point that I have no space, I also came home with an absolutely pristine 1950's 9x30 CM lathe 103.23070 (no motor) and an unmarked cast iron saw vise.

More later . . .

 

[Red Leader]

I had to run out this morning before I had time to answer your question. I was going to say,

'I don't know what color the saw is. It looks kind of mint colored in the photo. Must be grey.'

Having now seen the saw, I must ask why it was calling out to me and not to you. The original color was bronze but someone repainted it a lighter version of Red Leader's Famous 50's Blue|Green. So I'm sitting here looking at your cabinet thinking that's the color I want, while you are looking at it and imagining a future where it looks a lot more like mine (at least mine at some earlier age). Visually the cabinet is pretty rough. It's rusty but doesn't appear pitted, the feet seem ok. It has been dragged around a bit. There is paint flaking off all around the base and it is covered in some sort of (chemical?) residue.
I hope you can direct me in the process of restoring all the chrome. It almost looks like an earlier owner lived somewhere near the ocean. I am concerned it may be too pitted. I will post some pictures after I figure out how to get it out of my truck. I am also hopeful that someone can help me with some pictures of the fence's rear guide. This one has been modified and I don't know why or what might be missing. I literally had to cut it apart to remove the extensions. The saw is a number 103.22420, hopefully I can locate a manual and maybe figure it out. What number is yours?

Now I am taking you at your word that this is a good saw. I had wanted a UniSaw but if you sold yours in favor of this, that speaks well for it. In any case, I don't think I could have touched a UniSaw for the price.

So here's the ad:

Heavy Craftsman Tablesaw 8" with assorted blades
1 horsepower capacitor motor
Asking $200 OBO
Call: 000-000-0000 for more details

And the picture:

Note the date in the picture. It would appear they have been planning to sell this for a while. It's been listed on CL for at least 2 weeks. And yes I believe that it is really a 10 inch, not 8 as listed. So returning to your earlier formula, my final price:

Home Depot Table Saw - 30

That picture really drives home the value of the older tools.

Came with four original standard sized extensions bolted together, original wheel set (only someone replaced the wheels with smaller ones which required drilling new holes ), original switch, and of course the motor (also painted to match ). Not included: splitter / blade guard. Does anyone actually have one?

Completely missing the point that I have no space, I also came home with an absolutely pristine 1950's 9x30 CM lathe 103.23070 (no motor) and an unmarked cast iron saw vise.

More later . . .

So you picked it up? Good on you! A beautiful saw. The 4 extensions is a sweet bonus, and having the fence railing extend that far too is very nice.

The motor on the back of these is a strong motor, and 1HP should get you through just about anything. Craftsman did make a 1 1/2HP version of the same motor, and I'm going to snag one if I ever see it.

Did yours come with the belt guard? Mine is missing, as is a lot of them. The blade guard would be pure gold if you found one. Every person who owns one of these saws, not a single one has a blade guard. They are made of unobtanium and honestly probably a terrible guard which is the reason why you never see them

Mine will need a little truing of the arbor, but I have enjoyed using mine. It is a flexible saw. You can use as is, or throw on a 5HP industrial motor (and a different switch) and have a beast of a saw. However, it will do well in its current setup. Unlike some other Craftsman (bench) saws that were nearly underpowered from the factory, these do just find.

If you don't like it (and if it has the belt guard), I wouldn't mind having two

 

[JasonW]

Regarding the belt sander, would it be the 207.2230 sander pictured just a little ways down on this page:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Kneisley Electric Company.ashx

??


If so, I hear it is a good sander, but owners have reported issues finding the obscure length belts for it. That was the biggest issues steering me away from it. However, since I don't own one and haven't really don't a lot of research on one, I'm not completely sure that there isn't the option to source them or get them made, so it might be worth checking out.

In any case, good work keeping these old tools alive!

Yes that's the one. When I bought it, it came with an assortment of sanding belts so I figured for the price, even if I couldn't find more, I would get my money's worth. I didn't look closely enough, they were the wrong size. I have since found a possible source for new ones but when I opened up the sander, it was apparent that it would just chew the new belts up. I need to repair the guides. So its a catch 22. I don't know whether to order the belt and test for size before I invest in the guides or repair the guides before I spend the money on the belt. I used it for what I purchased it for then stuck it on the shelf where it awaits further inspiration. I will find the name of the belt supplier and post it here if you think it would be of value.

 

[machine_punk]

...and don't use bench grinders as hand grinders

I don't, as a rule, put other people's quotes in my signature line...but that, my friend, is HILARIOUS...

Glad to see you are making progress on the floor. I'm felt the same way about replacing the water pump in the van...21 hours later...a painful story.

M_P

 

[JasonW]

The motor on the back of these is a strong motor, and 1HP should get you through just about anything. Craftsman did make a 1 1/2HP version of the same motor, and I'm going to snag one if I ever see it.

Did yours come with the belt guard? Mine is missing, as is a lot of them. The blade guard would be pure gold if you found one. Every person who owns one of these saws, not a single one has a blade guard. They are made of unobtanium and honestly probably a terrible guard which is the reason why you never see them

Mine will need a little truing of the arbor, but I have enjoyed using mine. It is a flexible saw. You can use as is, or throw on a 5HP industrial motor (and a different switch) and have a beast of a saw. However, it will do well in its current setup. Unlike some other Craftsman (bench) saws that were nearly underpowered from the factory, these do just find.

If you don't like it (and if it has the belt guard), I wouldn't mind having two

Yes it does have the belt guard (though I don't specifically remember putting it in the truck . . . Going to have to run out and check.) I will keep my eyes open for another one. Thanks for the info about the motor. Was concerned it would need to be upgraded. The new saws seem to be 3hp. You mentioned the switch. Would I need to change it because of the higher amps? Thanks for all the input.

 

[JasonW]

Forgot to mention that the fence railing is one piece. I have seen a picture of an extension fence railing that apparently came with the optional table extensions. The fact that this one is in one piece suggests that Sears must have sold this saw with the extended table 'factory packaged'. Perhaps this was not unusual but I see nothing to suggest it in the catalog. Something else I noticed in the 1957 catalog, the 1.5hp motor required a heavier duty motor mount. So which one found you? The standard or the heavy duty?

 

[Red Leader]

Yes that's the one. When I bought it, it came with an assortment of sanding belts so I figured for the price, even if I couldn't find more, I would get my money's worth. I didn't look closely enough, they were the wrong size. I have since found a possible source for new ones but when I opened up the sander, it was apparent that it would just chew the new belts up. I need to repair the guides. So its a catch 22. I don't know whether to order the belt and test for size before I invest in the guides or repair the guides before I spend the money on the belt. I used it for what I purchased it for then stuck it on the shelf where it awaits further inspiration. I will find the name of the belt supplier and post it here if you think it would be of value.

I definitely think it would be of value for any parts/material sources you can find, as other owners may be in the same predicament.

I can't help you with it since I do not own one and have not serviced one myself, but you can make a post over on OWWM when you get around to rebuilding it, since they are friendly towards hand power tools as well.

 

[Red Leader]

Forgot to mention that the fence railing is one piece. I have seen a picture of an extension fence railing that apparently came with the optional table extensions. The fact that this one is in one piece suggests that Sears must have sold this saw with the extended table 'factory packaged'. Perhaps this was not unusual but I see nothing to suggest it in the catalog. Something else I noticed in the 1957 catalog, the 1.5hp motor required a heavier duty motor mount. So which one found you? The standard or the heavy duty?

Jason,

That's great that yours came with the belt guard! I feel like I'll be looking for one for a while.

You also found out a tidbit that I did not know. Great job sleuthing that one! I did not know that Craftsman apparently had two different motor mounts for that saw. It may have been different based on the sizes the motor bases (if the 1.5HP is bigger) and that would be an obvious difference, but if it is just beefed up casting on the 1.5HP mount, I'm not sure how you'd tell them apart unless casting numbers match up with product numbers as described in the catalog.

That being said, I'm pretty sure I just have the 1HP one since the motor and the mount came from the same saw (so I think), however, the original one to this saw (which was lost) could have been either.

Nice find on that version of the cabinet saw - especially so given the fact that it is the factory model with the 4 extensions and the wide fence rail. I'm thinking that one is a bit rare. It will treat you well!

RL

 

[Red Leader]

I just got a new piece of vintage machinery in the garage! Lets see of you all can guess:

What it is

Who it was made by

What year it is from.


Some hints...

Starts with an F

Second oldest piece of machinery now in the garage

It does NOT cut wood!



Any takers?

 

[smschriefer]

Ford 8n tractor? Are you going to go Amish on us, remove one wheel and run all your tools off a drive belt to the tractor axle? lol

 

[WhoWhatNow]

I'm going with a floor jack. A nice Blackhawk SJ-18 maybe?

Sorry, I must be projecting...

 

[Wingnut65]

Its a 1911 Fire Extinguisher...

 

[Red Leader]

Good guesses so far...keep 'em coming!


More hints...

4 legs

weighs about 150lbs

Not an animal

 

[bluebolt]

Alright Red Leader this is a tough one, I can't come up with any tool that start with F that seems right.

Let's see if you can guess what I just picked up.

Hints
It's not Craftsman
Mississippi
Art Deco
I have never owned one before
You do use it for woodworking.

 

[machine_punk]

A forge...you are going to start blacksmithing.

 

[flybefree]

An Fing Planer? I mean, I don't know what else to guess...I just blurted out the first thing that came to my head.

Shaun

 

[tinbender 66]

Ferrari??

 

[fergus]

Forney welder.

 

[tinbender 66]

Maybe FERGUS is movin' in. Although I have seen him cut wood.........