air compressor oil blow by normal?

[kapster]

I have a twin cylinder single stage Campbell hausfeld 60 gallon compressor I bought used. Since I've hooked it up, I get a bit of oil in the airlines. It makes the coupler oily, corroded my filter/ regulator bowl some. If I don't use it for a week or so, I get a puff of musty, oily smelling stuff out the air hose.

My local compressor shop said thats not right and said to take the head/ valve plate apart. If nothing's wrong there it needs rings. not sure I buy the valve plate making it use oil?

So is this normal with an oil lubricated compressor? Should I work on it or get a coalescing filter? I mostly use it for blowgun and running air tools. I'd like to use it for my sandblaster and painting occasionally. If a coalescing filter is the answer, use it for everything or just paint and sandblast?

Thanks guys

 

[930dreamer]

Sounds like the crankcase oil is getting past the rings and exiting through the valves. I'd fix it or look for another pump/compressor.

 

[KinzeMech]

Have you drained your tank?
What does the drainage look like?

What does the crankcase oil look like? How much is it using?

A worn pump can discharge oil, but it usually just collects in the bottom of the tank. The oil you notice after setting for a week is especially odd. Anything in it should definitely have settle out over that period of time.

I would see first how much oil the pump is using, and change the oil. I've seen pumps leak oil when the oil is worn substantially past it's change interval.

 

[kc-steve]

Have you drained your tank?
. . . A worn pump can discharge oil, but it usually just collects in the bottom of the tank. The oil you notice after setting for a week is especially odd. Anything in it should definitely have settle out over that period of time.

I would see first how much oil the pump is using, and change the oil. I've seen pumps leak oil when the oil is worn substantially past it's change interval.

Great info Kinze. My compressor is about 2 years old and I hope to keep it in good shape for many more years. I have been using Mobil-1 with no troubles. It was recommended by C-H.

Steve

 

[kapster]

I changed the oil about 6 months ago when I hooked it up. It said use compressor oil or a synthetic motor oil such as mobile 1, I used amsoil. I put a ball valve in for the tank drain and also put a water trap in the plumbing so they get drained regularly. They have that musty oily smell. Doesn't seem to be using A lot of oil but I don't use it much. When I plumbed it in, I put a ball valve at the bottom of the pipe to drain water there. It had a Leak and when I got around to fixing it, the pipe threads were oily.

My hose is a hose reel so the end of the hose hangs down, think that's why the coupler gets oily.

 

[RCStocker]

I have an automatic drain on my tank. I never need to mess with it.
It sound like you need to rebuld the compressor head. It is not a big job.
They make water and oil filters for compressors.
Now with that said the farther away form the tank you install them the better they work. You do not want to install the seperators next to the tank. They are better installed on the end of the line.

 

[930dreamer]

Just remember that your airline/hose will have oil in it forever, don't use it use with a tool like painting equipment.

 

[kapster]

So it is possible to just be the head and not rings? I have a water separator/filter but I think I'd need a coalescing to take out the oil right?

 

[W-Cummins]

So it is possible to just be the head and not rings? I have a water separator/filter but I think I'd need a coalescing to take out the oil right?

For most/(all??) piston compressor heads I have seen there is NO way for the head to add oil to the output. That's not to say there isn't some design where that could happen (that the compressor pumps or splashes oil into the head/valves). On all the compressors I have looked at there is normally NO oil in the head at all, and the only way to get oil up there is past the rings. YMMV....

William....

 

[bsaint]

You can also get blow by if your intake valves are shot. You create a vacuum above the piston and itll draw oil past the rings. I've seen it before.

 

[zmotorsports]

I can't see how a head issue can be getting oil into the output lines. The oil would have to first get past the rings.

Two other things to check before condemning the rings, first make certain that the crankcase breather is not plugged and secondly that it is not over-filled. Both of those situations can force the oil past the rings due to excessive pressure in the crankcase.

If both of those areas look good then I hate to break it to you but you need new rings and at least a hone job. They are not that bad to do though so not the end of the world. Definately cheaper than a new pump.

Mike.

 

[KinzeMech]

I changed the oil about 6 months ago when I hooked it up. It said use compressor oil or a synthetic motor oil such as mobile 1, I used amsoil. I put a ball valve in for the tank drain and also put a water trap in the plumbing so they get drained regularly. They have that musty oily smell. Doesn't seem to be using A lot of oil but I don't use it much. When I plumbed it in, I put a ball valve at the bottom of the pipe to drain water there. It had a Leak and when I got around to fixing it, the pipe threads were oily.

My hose is a hose reel so the end of the hose hangs down, think that's why the coupler gets oily.

Did you use amsoil compressor oil, or amsoil engine oil?

I'd try a different oil. Most compressor pumps recommend using a non-detergent oil. Synthetic is good, but it's hard to find a nondetergent synthetic oil unless you buy one specifically made for compressors.

If your compressor is not using a measurable amount of oil, I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that it has an actual problem. If it's worn enough to have a problem, it's probably also showing a loss of performance. If you can let it pump up from 0 to shutoff, time it with a stopwatch, and post that information, making note of the cutoff pressure, I can tell you if it's performance is where it ought to be. Also, have you checked out your air filter? Restriction in the intake can cause or exacerbate an oil consumption issue.

When our shop compressor has been running for a long time, and the tank starts to heat up, if you use an air wand, you will see it blowing a fog. If you hold your hand in that fog, it feels greasy as oil, but it is not. This compressor has not had oil added in over a year, probably runs 2-3 hrs on an average day, and gets daily use. The moral of the story is, air compressor condensate, even though it should just be moisture, is a very greasy substance.

Is it possible what you are describing as a musty, oily smell could just be "compressed air smell"? I don't know how to explain it well. It's like the taste of water drank from a garden hose. It's distinct, and if you know what it is, you know, but if you don't, it can't be explained to you.

 

[kald]

I have a 60 gallon CH and have had the same problem when I over filled the sump even just a tiny bit when changing the oil.

 

[kapster]

Ok, I'll post the fill time in a few.

I used amsoil engine oil, was going to use amsoil compressor oil but manual said specifically that synthetic motor oil such as mobile one is fine, and amsoil beats the socks off of mobile one.

I really think its oil but yea not all that much. Enough to mess up a sandblaster or paint job though. My dad and father in law both have oilless compressors. I've seen what moisture is like there but this has some oil in it.

Kald, it is a little overfilled. Now that you mention it, when I changed it I put in what the manual said and it was a bit over. So maybe I'll do an oil change then.

 

[kald]

Ok, I'll post the fill time in a few.

I used amsoil engine oil, was going to use amsoil compressor oil but manual said specifically that synthetic motor oil such as mobile one is fine, and amsoil beats the socks off of mobile one.

I really think its oil but yea not all that much. Enough to mess up a sandblaster or paint job though. My dad and father in law both have oilless compressors. I've seen what moisture is like there but this has some oil in it.

Kald, it is a little overfilled. Now that you mention it, when I changed it I put in what the manual said and it was a bit over. So maybe I'll do an oil change then.

If you can measure exactly what your putting there that would be best. If you only have a dip stick like mine they are only a guideline, like all dip sticks they can be off a bit. What viscosity did you use? They call for 10w30 if using motor oil. A 5 or 0w30 will be thinner until you get to 212F maybe some oil is just getting past the rings.

 

[kapster]

It took 5 minutes 13 seconds to fill to 112 psi. Ratings are 12 scfm at 40psi, 10 at 90.

I used 0w30 amsoil. Yea that could be a problem to. Sounds like I should just get some compressor oil.

 

[Outlawmws]

It took 5 minutes 13 seconds to fill to 112 psi. Ratings are 12 scfm at 40psi, 10 at 90.

I used 0w30 amsoil. Yea that could be a problem to. Sounds like I should just get some compressor oil.

I suspect that is your problem. Too light of oil. What was specified?

 

[KinzeMech]

It took 5 minutes 13 seconds to fill to 112 psi. Ratings are 12 scfm at 40psi, 10 at 90.

That is giving you an average output (average of from 0 to shutoff) of 11.8 SCFM. Your compressor's output is about right where it should be, and does not at this time appear to indicate a mechanical deficiency.

I used 0w30 amsoil. Yea that could be a problem to. Sounds like I should just get some compressor oil.

That sounds worth trying. I'd rather drop $10 on an oil change than rebuild a pump that just needed new oil.

 

[pipsters]

That is giving you an average output (average of from 0 to shutoff) of 11.8 SCFM. Your compressor's output is about right where it should be, and does not at this time appear to indicate a mechanical deficiency.


That sounds worth trying. I'd rather drop $10 on an oil change than rebuild a pump that just needed new oil.

I came up with the same number...certainly nothing appears wrong with the compression - maybe time it from 80-100 psi and get back to us that will tell a little bit more.

But nothing looks off from those numbers.

 

[kapster]

I'll check the 80 to 100 tomorrow. I changed the oil with the same 0w-30 today, i did have it about 1/4 inch above full notch. Was careful not to overfil it this time.

I drained the little moisure in the tank today into a container and let it settle. Its white colored, smells like crayons.

So its sounding like get the right oil and a coalescing filter and be done with it. Do you use the coalescing for everything or just stuff you dont want oil on? Also, my filter is 40 micron but i can get a 5 mictron element. Would that catch anymore oil?

 

[bsaint]

I can't see how a head issue can be getting oil into the output lines. The oil would have to first get past the rings.

Two other things to check before condemning the rings, first make certain that the crankcase breather is not plugged and secondly that it is not over-filled. Both of those situations can force the oil past the rings due to excessive pressure in the crankcase.

If both of those areas look good then I hate to break it to you but you need new rings and at least a hone job. They are not that bad to do though so not the end of the world. Definately cheaper than a new pump.

Mike.

Rings only work one way. Because you are drawing in air, they aren't like automotive rings which are stopping an explosion running past your rings. I still think its a head thing if the rings are fine.

Rings are easy to check. Look at the side of the rings. If the wear line is more than half way replace them. Or check the cylinder wall for deep lines. Its like a 10 minute ordeal.

If rings are worn or not isn't a guessing game.